Review of Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D

The Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D lens is one of 5 fast normal (in terms of focal length range) professional lenses from Nikon. The lineup includes: old Nikon 35-70mm 1: 3.5 AI (and his brother AI-S), Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D (presented in this review and its previous MKI version) and three new and very solid: Nikon ED SWM AF-S Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 2.8D и Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8GN ED and Nikon N VR AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8E ED.

Review Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Review Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D lens (the so-called 'D' version, or the 'MKII' version) began to be released back in 1992 yearwhen he became a substitute for Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8 (without the letter 'D', so called 'Non-D' version, or 'MKI' version). Therefore, in fact, there are two lenses of the '35 -70 / 2.8 AF 'class. All differences between MKI and MKII versions can be found here.

Sample photo on Nikon 35-70 AF F2.8D

Sample photo on Nikon 35-70 AF F2.8D

The lens has a manual aperture ring. To be able to control the value aperture from camera or for automatic installation aperture on modern central control valves, you need to turn the control ring to the F / 22 value and fix it with a special lever, which is located to the right of the marks aperture... If this is not done, some cameras will display an 'fEE' error (aperture ring not set). Some cameras with diaphragm rheostat, allow you to control the aperture using the aperture ring, but only in metering modes exposure 'M' and 'A'. You can read more about this issue in the section on Non-G Lenses.

Sample photo on Nikon AF 35-70 F2.8D

Sample photo on Nikon AF 35-70 F2.8D

 What is good in this lens?

  1. Metal construction. My copy is at least 6 years old, but I have not noticed any backlash. Holding this lens in your hands, you understand that this is a real professional lens “Made in Japan”, which is actually written on it. And I bet he will survive modern plastic for at least another ten years.
  2. The lens uses a metal hood Nikon HB-1, which is installed in special grooves and can be fastened back and forth for transportation.
  3. Large and constant maximum aperture F / 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths. This is very convenient when calculating shutter speeds, convenient in low light, and indeed, the F / 2.8 aperture is an indispensable thing in photography.
  4. Macro Capability. Although the macro is obtained only with a maximum magnification of 1: 4, still the ability to shoot small objects is pretty good news. Truth, Macro mode must be enabled manually, he only works at 35 mm focal length and so on in manual focus mode... To switch to macro mode, set the focal length equal to 35 mm, press the special button located on the zoom ring and turn the zoom ring. It turns out not quite a full-fledged 'macro' and even with additional troubles for setting.
  5. Wonderful picture. We will talk about the quality of the final image below.
  6. There is a scale for the focus distance, a scale for manual control of the aperture, as well as two marks for adjusting focus for sharpness when working in the infrared spectrum (for 35 and 70 mm focal length).
Photo at Nikon AF D 35-70 F2.8

Photo at Nikon AF D 35-70 F2.8

Disadvantages:

  1. Heavy... After a day of working with the Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D, you realize that it is really heavy. The lens weighs 670 grams.
  2. Inconvenient Design... Changing the focal length is done using a piston system (push and pull - push and pull), this can be a rather inconvenient method. There is no need to "twist" the zoom, here you just need to push it like a piston. Moreover, it acts the other way around. The further you advance, the smaller the focal length.
  3. No focal length lock. If the lens is set to 35 mm and directed to the sky, then the front the lens unit under its own weight falls down and will make the focal length approximately 50 mm. But not vice versa, if you set 70 mm and point it down, then it stands still and does not lengthen its trunk. Such a cunning beast, this Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D with its piston zoom system.
  4. When focusing the front lens not only rotates, but also moves back and forth. This is bad news for fans of all sorts of unusual light filters. And to put it in a photo bag, you need to set the focus to infinity, and the zoom at 70mm, this reduces the efficiency of working with the lens and gives reason to doubt his professionalism.
  5. There is no manual / auto focus switch. To focus manually you must disconnect the focus drive on the camera (switch near the mount). Even when focusing in macro mode, auto focus must be turned off.
  6. During focusing, the lens is pretty noisy.
  7. His age. Unfortunately, the lens is not dustproof and moisture proof, because it is aging, gaining moisture, condensation and can often become infected with a fungus. When buying it in the secondary market, check carefully. Also, mechanics wear out a bit from old age and my instance also has one problem, about which below.
  8. When changing the focal length, the rear lens of the lens moves (drives air).
  9. The lens has only 7 aperture blades; newer models have 9 blades each.
  10. Unlike many modern Nikon professional lenses that use 77 mm diameter filters, Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D uses 62 mm diameter filters.

It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.

Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:

Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:

Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.

You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.

Features of working with the lens, which are worth paying attention to:

  1. The lens has SIC enlightened optics (Super Integrated Coating), but still afraid of side and back light
  2. You need to get used to working with piston zoom (with trambone) and remember that he can independently change the focal length.
  3. Always for manual focus, you need to put the camera in manual focus mode. This is simply done with the focus switch on the camera. For motorists, I’ll add that it’s the same as turning the clutch on and off, otherwise the engine could be damaged.
  4. The lens has fast auto focus. The focusing time from infinity to MDF and back is almost the same as Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8GN ED(!). In manual focus mode, the focus ring rotates 90 degrees. The focus ring and zoom are rubberized.
  5. During auto focus, the focus ring rotates and cannot be touched. The minimum focusing distance is 60 cm (in normal lens operation).
  6. When used on NikonDX cameras, the viewing angles will change and will be the same as for the focal length in 50-105 mm on 35 mm film.
Macro photo at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

Macro photo at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

About the picture.

The bokeh of the lens is very good. The best epithet for bokeh and in combination with its color rendition, I would suggest "festive". Exactly for bokeh and color reproduction, this lens is very appreciated and praisedI join.

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

The aperture is fully working with 2.8 and this is not a joke. Sharpness at F / 2.8 on any focal, even the most extreme, is quite satisfactory (keep in mind that I work with it on DX cameras). At 70 mm and F / 2.8 it gives excellent portrait shots. Closing the aperture to 4, you can get just wonderful sharpness. On F / 2.8, the edges of the image suffer a little (on FX cameras it may already be a problem).

Photos on the Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

Photos on the Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

The macro is pretty meagerbut still happy. Chromatic aberrations present, but still small. Distortion at 35mm and 70mm is almost invisible, like vignetting on a DX camera. A major drawback of the picture is the drop in contrast in side and backlight. The contrast drops so much that it’s not always sure whether it’s focused correctly, the picture is all in veil. Also, the lens is a lover of catching hares and its small native metal hood does not help him in any way.

Photos at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

Photos at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

In general, it is for the sake of the picture, people still use this lens, with some moving from the legendary Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8GN ED to this Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D with the words “the picture of Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8 has its own soul”, but as I often write “all markers are different in taste and color”.

Photo at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

Photo at Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor

 From a personal impression:

Piston control does not only teach you to twist the zoom ring, but to think about how to compose a frame, and then try to get it conceived using a piston. The task is quite interesting, since it would seem that the longer the trunk leaves, the greater the focal length - but it wasn’t there, it’s just the opposite, because the first time it’s quite inconvenient to shoot, but you can get used to it in just one day of active shooting.

On the copy that I visited, I really did not like the glitch with focusing at the focal length of 35 mm, when the lens refuses to focus at all. This is due to his old age. When you focus on 35 mm and the range accidentally reaches 60 cm, it gets stuck there to bring the lens to life, just a little bit to move the piston - mind you, this is just a feature of my specimen.

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

Regarding the inconvenient focal lengths of 35-70 mm - on the one hand you get three fixes in one: 35mm, 50mm and 85mm, but on the other hand the fixes have at least one stop more aperture. Focal lengths for cropped cameras are really uncomfortable due to the lack of a normal wide angle.

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor photo

Professional fast wagon

Choosing a good high-speed universal lens is one of the most important for a large number of photographers. I pay a lot of attention to this issue, because I prepared this list of all full-frame universal (standard range of focal lengths) fast autofocus lenses:

Canon

Bayonet EF:

  1. Canon Zoom Lens EF 28-70 mm 1: 2.8 L USM
  2. Canon Zoom Lens EF 24-70 mm 1: 2.8 L USM
  3. Canon Zoom Lens EF 24-70 mm 1: 2.8 L II USM

Bayonet R:

  1. Canon Lens RF 28-70 mm F2 L USM, since September 2018
  2. Canon Lens RF 24-70 mm F2.8L IS USMsince August 2019

Nikon

Bayonet F:

  1. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  2. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
  3. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-70 mm 1: 2.8D ED SWM (two body color options)
  4. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70 mm 1: 2.8GN ED Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Asphericalsince December 2007
  5. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70 mm 1: 2.8EN ED Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Aspherical VR

Bayonet Z:

  1. Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70 mm 1: 2.8 S
  2. Nikon Nikkor Z 28-75 mm 1:2.8 (the scheme is similar to Tamron a036, animation)

Tokina (for different mounts)

  1. Tokina AT-XAF 28-70 mm 1: 2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF)
  2. Tokina AT-X PROAF 28-70 mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (or 1: 2.8, Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
  3. Tokina AT-X PROAF 28-70 mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (or 1: 2.8, Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO II)
  4. Tokina AT-X PRO 28-80 mm 1: 2.8 Aspherica (Tokina AT-X 280 AF PRO)
  5. Tokina AT-X PRO SV 28-70 mm 1: 2.8 (Tokina AT-X 287 AF PRO SV)
  6. Tokina sd 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical

Sigma (for different mounts, in chronological order)

  1. Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom, from May 1992 (Vivitar 28-70 / 2.8 VMC was made on its basis)
  2. Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX Ashperical [+ -D], from the end 1998
  3. Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX Aspherical DF [+ -D]since February 2001
  4. Sigma 24-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX DG Aspherical [+ -D], [DF version], since February 2001
  5. Sigma 24-60mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX DG [+ -D], from May 2004
  6. Sigma 24-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX DG Macro [+ -D], From september 2004
  7. Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom EX DG [+ -D], From september 2004
  8. Sigma 24-70mm 1: 2.8 EX DG HSM, From september 2008
  9. Sigma 24-70mm 1:2.8 DG HSM OS A (ART), from February 2017, Nikon F, Canon EF, Sigma SA
  10. Sigma 24-70mm 1: 2.8 DG DN A (ART)since November 2019, Sony E, Leica L, the layout is similar to Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 2.8 / 24-70mm, animation
  11. Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 DG DN C (Contemporary)since February 2021, Sony E, Leica L

Tamron (for different mounts)

  1. Tamron SP AF 35-105 mm 1: 2.8 Aspherical Model 65D
  2. Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD ​​[IF] 28-105 mm 1: 2.8 Model 176D
  3. Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD ​​[IF] 28-105 mm 1: 2.8 Model 276D
  4. Tamron SP AF Aspherical XR Di LD [IF] 28-75 mm 1: 2.8 Macro Model A09 (Model A09N & Model A09N II) (scheme like Konica Minolta AF Zoom 28-75mm 1: 2.8 (32) D и  Sony 2.8 / 28-75 SAM)
  5. Tamron SP 24-70 mm F / 2.8 DI VC USD Model A007
  6. Tamron SP 24-70 mm F / 2.8 Di VC USD G2 Model A032
  7. Tamron 28-75 mm F / 2.8 Di III RXD Model A036, (15/12), only for Sony E / FE, the scheme is similar to Nikon Nikkor Z 28-75 mm 1:2.8, animation
  8. Tamron 28-75 mm F / 2.8 Di III VXD G2 Model A063, (17/15), only for Sony E / FE, Fall 2021
  9. Tamron 35-150 mm F / 2-2.8 Di III VXD Model A058, Sony E / FE only, Fall 2021

Sony

Sony / Minolta A mount:

  1. Konica Minolta AF Zoom 28-75 mm 1: 2.8 (32) D (scheme like Tamron 28-75 / 2.8)
  2. Minolta AF Zoom 28-70 mm 1: 2.8 (32) G
  3. Sony 2.8 /28-75 SAM (scheme like Tamron 28-75 / 2.8)
  4. Sony Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 2,8 /24-70 ZA SSM T *
  5. Sony Zeiss Vario-Sonnar 2,8 /24-70 ZA SSM II T* (circuit from the previous lens)

Sony E-mount:

  1. Sony FE 2.8 /24-50 G (G, SEL2450G)
  2. Sony FE 2.8 /24-70 GM (G, SEL2470GM)
  3. Sony FE 2.8 /24-70 GM II (G, SEL2470GM2)

Pentax (K)

  1. Pentax SMC FA 28-70 mm f / 2.8
  2. Pentax HD Pentax-D FA 24-70 mm f / 2.8ED SDM WR

Angénieux

  1. Angenieux zoom F.28-70 1: 2.6 AF (for Nikon F, Minolta / Sony A, Canon EF)

Vivitar

  1. Vivitar Series 1 28-70mm 1: 2.8 VMC AUTO FOCUS ZOOM, different mounts, presumably a copy Sigma 28-70mm 1: 2.8 Zoom

Panasonic

  1. Panasonic Lumix S PRO 1: 2.8 /24-70 mm, from August 2019, Leica L

Leica

  1. Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 1: 2.8 / 24-70mm f / 2.8 ASPH., from May 2021, the optical design repeats Sigma 24-70mm 1: 2.8 DG DN Art (animation)

Samyang

  1. Samyang AF 24-70 / 2.8 FE, aka Rokinon AF 24-70 / 2.8 FE, from October 2021, only for Sony E / FE
  2. Samyang AF 35-150/2-2.8FE, from April April 2023, only for Sony E/FE

Sample photos with shooting data (originals, RAW in JPEG Q80%, resized, watermark)

List of all Nikon FX 35-XXX autofocus lenses:

  1. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  2. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
  3. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKI)
  4. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII)
  5. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-80 mm 1: 4-5.6D (MKI)
  6. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-80 mm 1: 4-5.6D (MKII)
  7. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
  8. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKII)
  9. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 D (MKIII)
  10. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
  11. Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKII)

The catalog of modern universal lenses for Nikon can be look at this link.

Prices for the Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8D AF Zoom-Nikkor lens in popular stores can look at this link.

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.

Hack and predictor Aviator

The lens has more minuses than pluses, but still this old man can calmly give modern super sharp optics his indestructible design and a wonderful picture. But for what purpose are all lenses designed?

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram

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Comments: 331, on the topic: Review of Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D

  • Oleg

    A good overview, but your hood is just universal, the native one is screwed on outside the HB-1. Regarding autofocus failure in the extreme position (over 35 mm), this is not a glitch of your lens, Nikon experts deliberately broke the connection with the focusing drive in this position, just so that in macro mode (manual focusing) the camera motor would not be damaged. Otherwise - I forgot to turn off autofocus on the carcass - I ruined the motor.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Thanks for the addition.

    • Shukhrat Amatovich

      Good health Oleg. Thanks for the information about the lens, if possible, write something else about this lens. I want to buy this device, I don't know much about it ... Thank you very much in advance. Best regards, Amatic.

  • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

    Dear Arkady, please tell me what the focal distance will be, but the Nikon D7000 with this lens.
    Thanks for the review !!!

    • Ronin

      So all the same, it’s simple if the crop was written by Arkady already if the film or not cropped then 35-70mm)
      nothing will change from a particular model

    • Alexey

      We multiply on the crop by one and a half ... 70 = 105 ... And so on ...

  • Marina

    Thank you Arkady for the review !!! I read with interest about my first lens on the Fuji S5Pro. But Macro doesn’t work on me.
    I switch to manual mode on the camera, extend the ram to 35mm, press the metal button on the lens barrel, slide the middle ring to the M position (it can easily move to this position without pressing the button). When you rotate the focusing ring, the lens does not focus on the target. What am I doing wrong? What is the minimum focusing distance for this lens macro. 0,6m?
    There are no instructions for the lens - tell me if you know.

    • Egor

      Marina, if you haven’t figured out the macro yet, then you did everything correctly, only you need to focus by changing the distance to the subject. Moreover, the minimum focusing distance in macro mode is much less than 0,6m.

  • Valery

    Hello Arkady, in your opinion, the Nikkor 28-105D / 3.5-4.5 you tested is much inferior in terms of image quality?

  • Ronin

    Thank you so much for this review. It is a pity that I do not have the opportunity to compare this miracle with a 35mm fix and 24-70 from Nikor. Are you going to compare these lenses?
    It would be very useful for people like me who really look towards 35-70, mainly because of the price, and in the picture some kind of magic, maybe then the masters were on the steep "glass blowers"). Do you think the talk is true that his removed from production to sell 24-70 almost 3 times more expensive?

  • Alex

    Good afternoon, if not difficult, tell me in the choice:

    the park is as follows:

    f16 - Zenitar Fishye MF
    f135 - Jupiter 137A MF
    was 28-85 nikkor AF (sold)

    All.
    I want to fill the gap in the focal with something universal, but not the cheapest Kit.
    drew attention to this lens. his budget of second-hand about 9-10 thousand. now.

    like the given examples ph, design. however, I doubt the correctness of this approach. Do you think it might be better 35 / 1,8
    just a screwdriver carcass, in a 35-ke AF-S - what's the point of overpaying for a motor?
    50 / 1,4 something here is not impressive well, no matter how. and it will be too narrow on the crop.
    for portraits like "bun" I use Jupiter, for wide angle - Zenitar.
    but something universal and “for every day” ???

    can tell me something, thanks in advance.

    ps. Have you accidentally tested Tokin 28-70 / 2,8? in comparison with this nikkor, how is she?

    • Ronin

      If you are engaged in prof-o, then everything is exactly what I think, go to the full matrix.
      and if not, the crop is just a wonderful portrait. Yes, even a group of portrait painters)
      in principle, I want to take it and the zenithar’s fish eye on the crop I don’t focus on the zenithar so often. So, to shoot the interior wide and everything else to 35-70. Of course there are a lot of problems with it. But when you get used to the result, it will exceed expectations. It has all the makings to create beautiful photographs. Just finding it in good condition is very difficult (

  • Andrey

    Hello ... such a question, but on a cropped matrix it will have a similar focal value with Tamron 17-55?

  • Andrei

    I am facing a choice for the D700:
    Tokina 28-80 / 2.8 or Nikon 35-70 / 2.8
    Tokina attracts with its internal focusing, leaves nothing, the lens does not change its size. The drawing on the open is soft, somewhere it may be too soft, the reviews are ambiguous.
    Nikkor, on the contrary, has no complaints about the drawing, but the trombone, and not like 80-200 (MKII), is not a matter of the convenience of the zoom, it doesn’t please that it changes length when zooming in, backlash is possible with time, dust gets in, the front lens rotates and leaves.
    Prices are about the same for used ones, I don’t decide to donate anything. Needed as a staff member, for walks, outings, in general, so that “just in case, always with you”).
    Maybe there are some other nuances, I ask for advice, the budget is ~ 15000r.

  • Anton

    Tell me to choose 35-70mm f / 2.8 AF-D vs Nikon 24-84 f2.8-4

  • Andrew

    I bought yesterday a 35-70mm f / 2.8 AF-D in appearance, like a new one according to the serial, it was apparently released somewhere in 2005. It has a fairly large backfocus in conjunction with the D600 at 70mm, 50mm smaller. Before that, I got a couple of weeks before (35-70mm f / 2.8) I bought a Nikon 28-85 3,5-4,5 just works fine. And this one looks like new but with sharpness some problems. I tried to do Focus Tuning but such a question if at 70mm it will beat the target what will happen to 50mm / 35mm? Other lenses on the carcass focus normally. I looked for information on this site, and that something is not visible from Arkady about back / front focus problems.

  • Vadim

    Despite all the disadvantages described, I bought this lens for myself. Just a little different. I have with F 3.5. Now I'm waiting for it to come. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways)).
    Arkady, a question for you, if you will allow me. What is the difference between this lens and what you described in this review.

    PS: Thank you very much for all your reviews, I think that while I chose this glass, I read, if not all, then most of the laid out. And I admit honestly, as an inexperienced photographer, thanks to you, although I see that you do not praise this lens very much, I settled on it.).
    Zyzy: Good luck to you and your project.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      If you are writing about Nikon 35-70mm f / 3.5, then the main difference is the presence of auto focus.

  • Vadim

    more precisely in its absence on my copy. But in general, does it make sense for lenses like me, aspiring photographers?)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Of course have :)

  • Stiv

    Arkady, is there a difference between Nikon 35-70 / 2.8 with D and without D? Well, except for the possibility of measuring the distance, as well as in optical qualities, drawing and color rendition. Now, if you have a choice, take Nikon 35-70 / 2.8 for 12500r or Nikon 35-70 / 2.8D for 15000r. What would you choose if “finances sing romances”? Is the choice principled or not so critical?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Everything else should be identical. They say that the D version has a slightly better enlightenment, but I can’t check.

  • Stiv

    Today I watched Nikon 35-70 / 2.8 without D which is 12500r, I did not take it. When illuminated by a flashlight, it has distinctly water in the diameter of the lenses, somewhere inside there is clouding, it looks like gluing. On the long end is very soft. Eh.

  • Vadim

    Arkady, how to make the flash work with a 35-70 / 3,5 lens. When you press the flash, a window appears “Flash in TTL mode ...” Carcass 3100. Or this task for this camera is unsolvable in compatibility with this glass.
    P.S. Thanks.

  • Vadim

    Arkady, having scanned your site, found what I need regarding the flash. And thanks anyway for the useful content)).

  • Vlad

    Hello Arkady. Advise me which lens is better for the d600 Nikon 35-70 f / 2,8 or the new 24-85 f / 3,5-4,5 vr.In the picture I like the sharpness of the picture (plastic), preferably the edges of the frame are not blurred,

    • Andrei

      Hello, Vlad. I have both of these lenses. He wrote about his (02.10.2013 at 12:44). on carcasses D600 / D7000. The lens 35-70 2.8 sent back to the seller and he Nikon for alignment and did not find anything. They advised only if this one does not like to switch to 24-70 2.8. So in the case, just today I shot both. Since I did not want to spend money on 24-70, I decided to take both 35-70 and 24-85. What I have. 35-70 has a bunch of flaws. The Push-Pull system is an amateur, I have no problems with this but here, the fact that in the assembled position it is 70 and in the extended 35 is strange. The contrast drops when shooting against the sun. 35mm is actually not 35 and much smaller, comparable to the 35mm DX fix on the D600. The sharpness at 2.8 is controversial. Especially with my 35/50/85 fixes all G and 1.8 versions. But for all the shortcomings, I did not sell it, because he has a very interesting design and his own plastic. The lens 24-85 acquired just a month ago. Loved it! His VR is something. Shot 85mm at 1/15 without grease! Much sharper than 35-70 2.8. In the end, I would recommend 24-85 VR (it is no worse than 24-120 VR F4 judging by the reviews) and 50mm 1.8 / 1.4 for playing with depth of field. Since 35-70 has a very small range. Easy to do with one 50mm fix. Keep in mind that 35-70 must still be found in good condition. This is despite the fact that I have a 35-70 D version that looks like new from the window. I took it from a British wedding photographer on Ebay and still I sin on its sharpness at 70mm and back / front focus. If samples are needed, I can show it.

      Andrei

  • Vladimir

    Arkady, I would like to find out from you what you recommend as a zoom lens for a novice photographer. I thought about taking a lens from this review, but still its focusing system scares me.
    I have a carcass D200 and I'm still at a loss what is better to choose.
    I would really like to hear your advice :)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      For d200 as the first full-time I advise 18-70, this one will be inconvenient to use on the crop.

      • Vladimir

        But I would like something with a diaphragm of 2.8 rather than 3.5.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          aperture does not always solve the issue of convenience and quality.

          • Vladimir

            But still :) What is better to take with aperture 2.8, as there is a standard 18-55 lens.

            • Arkady Shapoval

              nikon 17-55 / 2.8

              • Vladimir

                Thanks for the answer :) But of course it's worth it ...

            • Alexey

              35-70 is worth taking ... 17-55 is not worth it ...

              • Arkady Shapoval

                Here are just 35-70 for the crop is not at all standard and no way sh. will not give :)

              • Alexey

                No, about sh.u., of course, there is no talk, it’s not bad to buy 20-35 \ 2.8 ..., but as a portrait photographer he is wonderful ...

              • Alexey

                I'm not talking about FR, but about quality ... As you noted here that the main thing is the picture, but on this topic, that 17-55, that 16-85 is the same gray crap ...

              • Arkady Shapoval

                The person asked about the standard lens, not about the "picture", be careful.

  • Alexey

    The lens is simply gorgeous considering its cost now. Of the minuses - you can't buy a new one, the front lens rotates and does not like backlight. But all this fades, after the pictures that he allows you to get. For me, the main problem is that it is difficult to find another zoom after it in the category up to 50 tr.

    http://www.club-nikon.ru/forum/topic/69434-%d1%84%d0%be%d1%82%d0%be%d0%b3%d1%80%d0%b0%d1%84%d0%b8%d0%b8-%d1%81%d0%bd%d1%8f%d1%82%d1%8b%d0%b5-%d0%bd%d0%b0-%d0%b480/page__view__findpost__p__729254

  • Vadim

    Continuing the topic ... So, 35-70 3.5 (not to be confused with ram 2.8, structurally these are different lenses. A very rare lens (I read somewhere on the Internet that they were released about 160 pieces, true or not - I don't know). Very cool soft picture, definitely that new lenses up to $ 000 will show a more soapy picture.Difficult to work, in the sense that camera settings are only in M ​​mode (but I only shoot in M ​​mode), it is difficult to focus, especially at long distances from It is not suitable for reportage photography, because… you yourself understand why))). Well, if you are in no hurry, then this will be a good addition to your collection. In general, at first it was necessary to suffer ... And it turned out not in vain - the pictures are very pleasing, well, the feeling that the thing is not pop is nice. Further, for beginners like me, this lens makes you think at the time of shooting, which is not bad, you must agree.

    P.S. And yet, I came to the conclusion that in this lens there are more pluses than minuses (apparently because it is not trambon))).

    P.S-2. If my post helped someone in choosing, I will be doubly happy))

    Thank you, Arkady for such a cool site ... Hold on Ukrainians.

  • Julia

    I am counting thousands on 30.

  • Oleg

    Very nice and informative review! Thanks!

  • Olegmarine

    Hello Arkady!
    I use this glass on FF. Satisfied with almost everything. I will not spray about the pros, but the truth is that very often, as you wrote, “the disadvantage of the picture is the drop in contrast with side and backlighting”. Well, very often…. Indoors - no complaints. Honestly, I don't really want to part. I also look closely towards Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm 1: 4G ED VR N and Sigma AF 24-105mm f / 4.0 DG OS HSM. At home I mainly shoot with fixed devices, but I constantly work in the Arctic and Antarctica regions and for this I carry a Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 VC and Nikon 35-70mm f / 2.8 AF ZOOM-NIKKOR (weight restrictions do not make it possible to take a lot ). But the latter is often frustrating. Of course, the main problem is in “hands” and experience, but often it is not possible to bring the light correctly, to stand correctly in relation to the light source. I shoot mainly from the board of the ship silt of the Zodiac.
    Does it make sense to change this lens to Nikkor AF 24-85mm f / 2.8-4 D IF? Or advise something else?
    I am not a fan of writing differs, but I spend a lot of free time on your "pages" - a deep bow from all amateur photographers ... You have already answered another question to me. Thanks for taking the time to answer!

    • Andrew

      Hi Olegmarine,

      I have Nikkor AF 24-85mm AF-S 3.5 - 4.5 and 35-70 2.8 on the D600, so VR for Nikkor AF 24-85mm really works really cool, I don't think so. the rest is ISO compensated. The picture is of course more like 35-70 2.8.

  • Alexey

    As for the fact that there are more minuses than pluses, I categorically disagree ... There is only one minus - counter light, the rest are only pluses ...

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Oh, yes, some advantages: push-pull, a rotating and moving lens, without a motor, with 7 petals, each second with a fungus or mold, something remotely resembling a macro, a falling trunk, etc. :)

  • Alexey

    35-70 is a wonderful lens ... There are no analogues for this price ... 28-70 \ 2.8 is better, but it is 3 times more expensive ...

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