According provided by Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical lens is huge thanks to the store www.fotika.com.uawhere you can find a huge number of different used photographic equipment, including similar lenses.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical was introduced with the camera Nikon D80 back in the fall of 2006. It was produced only in Thailand, like many other inexpensive zooms and fixes.
Main technical specifications of Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-135 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-202.5 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 7.5 X (usually rounded to 8) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105, 135 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 135 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 4.2 |
| Stabilizer features | Lens lacks image stabilizer |
| The weight | 385 g |
| Optical design | 15 elements in 13 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | Using a soft cover CL-0915 (the same cover was included in the package of delivery Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical) |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND” |
| Release period | From August 2006 to August 2008, later replaced by a similar lens - Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 135 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.6
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
- 135 mm - F / 5.6
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
What you should pay attention to in the Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens:
- This is a camera lens class DX, that is, from cameras with a cropped matrix and using it at full frame will not do anything good. But due to the smaller coverage area of the matrix, it turned out less.
- The lens has built-in focus motor SWM, which allows you to use the lens on the entire line of Nikon digital SLR cameras, even on younger models of the type D40, D3000. It focuses really silently, but not very fast. For everyday life, speed is enough.
- Convenient range of focal lengths. We get a 7.5x zoom lens. This is a pretty convenient thing, those who take off on fixes understand what I'm writing about.
- The lens does not have an image stabilizer. Now this is a very convenient feature, and in this regard, the 18-105 VR, 18-200 VR and 16-85 VR lenses are winning, since the image stabilizer really helps when shooting.
- The mounts of the mount are made of plastic, and not of metal in higher quality specimens. On the one hand, this is bad, but on the other hand it reduces weight.
- Internal focus - It will help to use filters without any extra problems, and indeed, internal focusing is a pleasant trifle.
- When zooming, the lens is decent sucks in air, well, dust with him, but you yourself already guessed the consequences.
- The lens has a couple of super elements from ED (ultrafine glass), which are designed to improve the picture eliminating it from HA. But few people are surprised by this in our time, but for 2006 it was a great solution.
- Convenient focus mode - to adjust the focus you do not need to switch to manual focus mode - just twist the focus ring.
- Included lens hood. In the style of good tradition, the lens hood can be attached to the lens in the opposite position. This will allow you to always carry it with you, and most importantly, with its reverse position, it does not interfere with the zoom. For example, at 18-105, the lens hood slightly interferes with the zoom ring.
- Pretty easy. 18-105 VR is much harder.
- A serious drawback is small aperture, but we must remember that it is more inappropriate to demand from a lens of this class.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
Focusing
Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D40, D90 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
I used almost everyone Nikon Nikkor DX Universal Zoom Lenses and I can summarize that the Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G autofocus speed is almost exactly the same as that of Nikon 18-105VR, Nikon 18-140mm VR, Nikon 18-200VR, Nikon 18-200mm GII VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-6.3 VR, and if we compare the focusing time from infinity to MDF and vice versa (the analysis can be done using video from the network). Of all the Nikon DX zoom lenses, it only focuses noticeably faster Nikon 16-85VR, Nikon 17-55, Nikon 18-70 и Nikon 16-80VR . Funny but even the simplest lenses Nikon 18-55G, 18-55GI, 18-55 VR, 18-55VRII still focus a little faster.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm across the entire range of focal lengths, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 4.2 magnification (the smaller the second ratio, the better the lens's macro capabilities). Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
About the picture:
Here you can write treatises and give many examples. But the final result of the picture in many respects depends not only on the lens and it is difficult to achieve a single accurate opinion. But still - the lens showed good sharpness on all focal ranges. At 18 mm, the corners are slightly soft, at 135 mm the sharpness is worse. But in general, sharpness is good, especially if you close the aperture a few stops.
The bokeh in the telephoto area is smooth, not aggressive - from a lens of this class is no longer necessary. Chromatic aberrations present - from them on a cheap zoom lens anywhere. Needless to 18mm HA the biggest and most terrible, just like distortion.
The vignetting of 135 and 18 mm, even on the cropped matrix, is quite strong and can be seen in the photo, but is easily removed in the editor.
Color rendering - all felt-tip pens taste and color are different, of course not the same as fast fixes.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
What else is there?
Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-135mm has two main competitors, this 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor и 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR II AF-S DX Nikkor. They differ slightly in focal lengths and the presence of a stabilizer. The first of them I do not recommend, it gives a soft picture, the second I recommend because of its best performance. Also, competitors include Nikon 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX VR Nikkor, which attracts with its wide angle. What to choose from these four relatively cheap lenses is up to you. And there is still a good old Nikon 18-70mm f / 3.5-4.5G IF-ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor but everyone has already forgotten about it.
You can download the original photos in the '.JPEG' format at this link and another addition at this link.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
Recommendations:
When shooting in the body range, always remember that the lens does not have a large aperturebecause it will not be able to provide short excerpts low ISO, so as not to pick up the ISO try not to shoot at the long end with shutter speed below 1/125 to avoid grease. For portraits, the lens is quite suitable in the area of 105-135mm, makes it possible to feel the bokeh, which is even wow for the zoom lens.
Due to the large diameter of the front lens, I advise you to immediately buy protective filter. I also recommend shooting at 6,3-8,0 apertures at all focal lengths - then the lens gives a really high-quality picture.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
Prices for the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical lens in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Hack and predictor Aviator
Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED pretty good universal lens for all occasions. When writing a review, I showed normal sharpness, the rest of the indicators are in the aisles of the norm - and I do not need to demand more from an amateur zoom for such money. The only thing that confuses is the lack of an image stabilizer. Also, if you decide to buy this lens to replace the whale 18-55 - pay better attention to more advanced Nikon 18-105VR и Nikon 18-200VR.
Full list of all lenses Nikon Nikkor DX You can find at this link.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Having 18-200 I will say right away that you DO NOT chase behind this glass. No matter what he says, the picture gives only on a sunny day, and only up to 135, from above it starts to make a terrible “noise”. Suitable only for travel and if you do not hesitate to bring a photo from the trip as from a soap dish. He does not rush his money. Plus only that you can shoot both portrait and landscape from one distance. In general, it is not controlled and it will not work to implement your ideas, unfortunately (
The most optimal set for a beginner is 35 / 1.8 and 55-200 / 4-5.6 they believe me better. Especially 35))) for crop this thing))). Thanks for attention)))
To school, urgently to school to learn to read and write….
Who says this lens is still relevant to buy on the crop? Naturally BU. It’s just possible to get it in a state of 4+ at a price of 140 USD. 18-140, although with a stabilizer, but it costs BU 2 times more expensive. I have a whale AF-S 18-55 VR, fixes AF-S 35 1 / 1.8 and AF-S 55 1 / 1.8. I wanted something with a long focus but not expensive. For AF-S 85 1 / 1.8 money is a pity. And then there will be a travel lens with a set of focal 18-135. Put and went to shoot in good light on the street during the day! What do you think?
Better at 18-105 pay attention.
Sergey, thank you, but knowing my character, I know for sure that having bought 18-105 then I will still waste away at the “extra” millimeters. Therefore, I initially chose between 18-135, 18-140 and 18-200. But the last 2 are expensive for me (considering the available fleet of lenses available). Therefore, I would like to hear the relevance of buying exactly 18-135 at a price of 140 USD, of course, with an acceptable condition.
and then you and 135/140 is not enough))
Need a long end - buy a telephoto zoom: 55-300; 70-300; 70-200, etc.
You will lose in versatility, you will gain in quality, because 100mm for 18-105 and 100mm for 70-300 are absolutely different quality! (from personal experience)
Otherwise, I would recommend either 18-105 or 18-140 + 70-300VR - as one of the best in terms of price / quality ratio.
Bv, thanks. You are probably right, but for all this I am not ready to shell out money. The question is to get an almost universal zoom for a minimum of investment. And do not bother with changing lenses. For example, you can photograph a portrait, and they can photograph the landscape.
And really. What is the point of buying different or new lenses if you can buy one for 140 bucks for all occasions with the same quality?
Buy of course
Lynx, I will. Your authoritative opinion outweighed my doubts.
Eugene, does the word "sarcasm" mean anything to you?
I have the feeling that you have already bought this not very suitable lens, and now you are trying to convince yourself that you did not argue with garbage.
It seems that in Lynx's commentary there was no sarcasm ...
No, I haven't bought it yet, but I will. I repeat - there is AF-S 18-55 VR, AF-S 35 1 / 1.8 and AF-S 50 1 / 1.8. There is no need to spend a lot of money. So I wanted to get an inexpensive universal lens. If you can describe the procedure for checking it before paying. I think so: visual inspection, then install on the carcass, take a photo at different focal points. May be something else?
Lens flashlight to see the clearance, fungus, chips, scratches, dust. External inspection, check the operation of the diaphragm by hand, see the status of the diaphragm. If everything is normal, put it on the carcass, check the zoom, autofocus, take a picture, see the focusing accuracy, sharpness in the frame, the absence of blurring of one of the corners.
.
AF-S 18-55 VR - guano, carcass plug
AF-S 35 1 / 1.8 - quite good
AF-S 50 1 / 1.8 - good but not very useful on crop.
In my opinion, for $ 140-170 you can already find used 18-140, but it is newer and better. For $ 80-100 I saw used 18-105.
By check: External inspection, check all mechanical parts - rings, backlash, hand movement of the diaphragm;
the condition of the lenses - the presence of scratches, chips, fungus;
check autofocus (speed and tenacity);
check the absence of front / back focus at all focal points (it is better to do this with a special plate + with the carcass rotated to portrait / landscape orientation), however, a small error is rarely noticeable on dark zooms;
to photograph something like a brick wall, or paving slabs - the plane of the wall must be parallel to the plane of the matrix, or, again, special. the plate - look at the distortions at the edges and corners, pay attention to the sharpness - everything should be 'the same' - that is, if, for example, one of the four corners is blurred, then there is a skew of the lenses (again on different FR + rotation of the carcass in portrait / landscape orientation);
Check the response of all aperture values (preferably in the 'M' mode followed by viewing the histogram)
Like everything, but could miss something
Thank you all, I will. The issue is resolved on the purchase. Buy - if interested - unsubscribe.
not interested.
It was necessary in Russian.
well oh.
Govnyuki
18-105 was a good workhorse, much better than the whale 18-55.
18-140 seems to look interesting and better in theory, but numerous complaints about marriage are alarming.
I do not exclude that this is due to the further policy of saving Nikon on quality.
sample shots 18-105
https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/vmirefoto-blogspot/album/363308/
I bought it. Checked according to the recommendations. The condition turned out to be not 4 +, but 5 - the person practically did not shoot them, but immediately switched to fixes. Lightweight, sharp, autofocus doesn't miss. The feelings from working with him are positive. I recommend it as a versatile inexpensive lens for shooting outdoors. You can shoot in all genres: animals, landscape, portraits, etc.
And lovers of sarcasm, if they love each other, they can communicate in specialized forums, and not under the discussion of the lens, which people read in order to make a choice.
what a horror
Even the seller did not shoot them, but immediately switched to fixes, of which you have a couple and not very bad ones. Moreover, you have a whale 18-55 and you do not understand that 18-135 is also a whale with the same problems (sharpness, aperture). A bunch of people cautiously hinted to you that there are better options. Lynx noticed that there are no universal zooms for $ 140 with quality fixes. But no, you buy it anyway. So why are you asking for advice? Buy silently. Nobody has anything against you, on the contrary, they wanted to help.
Well, you like him, well, good. Yes, just then you immediately recommend it on the first day after purchase. Shoot a little more, in different conditions then advise, but most likely you will often begin to look towards your fixes.
“Why do you walk on two legs when you have to on four? - It's more convenient for me ”(from Mowgli). Eugene wanted to upgrade his 18-55Vr to a lens with longer focal lengths, possibly of higher quality and inexpensive. I am satisfied with the upgrade (sharp, light, precise) and shoots everything on the street with “positive feelings”. Wish him a set of fixes (20-35-50-85-105-135) worth like a new car? Will send. To each his own.
"Possibly better quality" -0 hahaha three times.
18-55VR is better? Are you seriously?
unexpectedly, right?
What is unexpected? What do you think is better? Then look at the 18-55ED 1st. I recommend.
and even ed1 is better. not to mention ed2.
I tested the lens. Results: there is noticeable distortion at short focal lengths, vignetting is practically not noticeable like HA, autofocus is fast and does not miss when you hold the zoom ring with your left hand, index and thumb are on the focus ring. If necessary, you can pre-focus without switching to the “M” mode.
Examples of photos:
https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/stepanchikov-e/album/506398/
I have never regretted the money spent. I recommend it again.
Normal pictures (except for the 2nd and 1-2 more), the car is good. Do not distinguish from 18-105, etc. Good quality for the economy option. I didn’t understand why keep ready for the focus ring if the autofocus is fast and does not miss.
“Examples of photos:
https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/stepanchikov-e/album/506398/"
================================================== ======
It’s hard to judge by such a jpeg, but the pictures are very blurry.
despite sharping +3. some pictures are generally porridge. RAVy would have looked ...
focal lengths over 30mm - it is desirable to have a stub. an extremely useful feature. this lens doesn't have it, right?
Valery A., about the ring - it's generally about ergonomics.
Alex, there is no sharping. Files without processing. There really is no stabilizer.
Look about sharping in the camera, in the picture control. I see the benefit of the stabilizer at focal lengths from 200mm, at FR of about 100mm and below, on the contrary, it can wash away (according to my observations). And the rule S = 1 / FR or 1,5 FR was not canceled. In addition, the movement is highly individual. I'm not bragging, but for example, the photo below was taken on the video. 1/6, with hands, after very good warm supper.
And what can you make out?
Photoshop to help you, three seconds.
Alex, there is no sharping.
==================================
Sharping is, see the settings, +3. therefore I asked RAV. open RAV with a ravdiger and you will see a real picture. or go to the camera settings and turn off sharping there.
“I see the benefit of the stabilizer at focal lengths from 200mm, at FR of about 100mm and below, on the contrary, it can wash away (according to my observations).”
==================================
the stub is very useful even at 35mm. stub reduces detail but not so much that it would be noticeable without test tables. if you can see the lathering from the stub - you did not let it stabilize, it takes 1-3 seconds or the stub is simply faulty.
Well, no, I remember exactly - it was twilight, only the sky and the river were bright, and two of them were trying to shoot something. And your morning is not morning.
What am I to do with it? :)
It’s your two blacks who dig coal on a dark night. :)
Twilight on the river was shot, as I saw them (and it’s not visible already in the shadows). Not a portrait, not a landscape, not even a sunset. I hope you at least do not pull night photos into the light?
Exif really has a shutter speed of 1/6 second. For such exposure, a good frame. Lens 18-55. It seems to me focused on a branch in the center at the top.
Non-grease on such exposures is a matter of chance. The 18-55 ED lens is the earliest, I like its compactness and good shooting quality, I take it for everything when I don't want to carry extra weight. Where I don’t remember the focus, probably on a person.
Hello. Please tell me which lens is better to take for everyday life (Tamron 18-200) or (NIKKOR 18-135mm) Thank you.
Tamron has a stabilizer and Nikorr is sharper
http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Tamron-18-200mm-F35-63-Di-II-VC-Model-B018-Nikon-on-Nikon-D7100-versus-AF-S-DX-Zoom-Nikkor-18-135mm-f-3.5-5.6G-IF-ED-on-Nikon-D7100-versus-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-18-105mm-f-3.5-5.6G-ED-VR-on-Nikon-D7100__1588_865_207_865_205_865
Good day! I have such a camera since 2008, I am a layman. Gave a friend, she lost the lens cap. I wanted to order on the Internet, and there is absolutely no information on the lettering of the cap for this lens. Maybe someone knows?
Any cap you like with a diameter of 67 mm. By ibay from 100 r. In Russian photo shops, 300. The original is inhumanely expensive. And if you want some really good advice, screw on any cheap protective (also called UV) filter and forget about the cap. The price of the issue is the same 300 rubles. Why you shouldn't chase expensive filters - they practically do not affect the transmitted light and do not participate in collecting light. It is impossible to see the difference in natural conditions. Thus, you will protect the front lens of the lens from dust, dirt, scratches and the shower will stop hurting for the unnecessary cap - with it you only waste time - remove it, put it somewhere, forget where))).
The lens is certainly not ice))) it takes a long time to get used to it after fixes)))) strong vignette ... no sharpness ... maybe hands are not from there: P))))
Here is a photo, can I criticize?)
no flowers, the horizon is littered.
there is no point.
But there is a good bewitching rhythm.
maybe like this:
Thanks! I’ll think more about the meaning)) But I didn’t know what to do with color) Have you worked with the exposure? The first shot in the test 18-135)
Google “basic photo color correction”. Alexey Shadrin has a course dedicated to this.
I'll see! Thanks!!
green water, as in a swamp has become)))
which is logical, isn't it?
And I like it more like that.
delicious too.
And what exactly did you do with her?) I like it)
I trimmed the empty space above and below, in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) I pulled out the information from the shadows (lightened the trees), corrected the points of black and white, played a little with color and played with LAB color space in Photoshop itself, plus very little sharpness pulled up, and that’s it. Keep in mind, this is Jpeg, from which little can be done at all, but if it were the RAW format, the processing capabilities would have grown great.
I read the article today got his dusty D40.
Twisted I realized that only in manual mode can I do something pulled Nikkor 55-200
and went for a walk ...
Nice photos, thanks :)
In non-manual mode, such a picture cannot be taken?
I didn't succeed, try it ... All photos here are in manual mode and with auto-focus turned off ...
Perhaps there is front or back focus. In these stories, I see no reason to turn off autofocus.
Do you understand what you wrote yourself? The plots have a front - back :)))))) wonderful well-read people ... kapets ...
I wrote about the fact that in your bunch front-or back-focus is possible, if you only manage to shoot flowers in manual focus mode. You thought of everything else yourself. He shot on D40, though not for long. Of the old cameras, I used a lot of the D50, manual focus was almost never required. I didn’t take flowers, but I could easily catch flying bees.
But isn't the front-back shown in manual focusing (both by the sensor and by the eye) as well as by AF?
The theory is not necessary to breed back-kirdyk-shish kebab ... Did you hold the D40 in your hands? How does autofocus behave you know it? And finally, no one bothers you to do and show here - without a ball.
Why are you so aggressive? A person advises on business - check the back / front, if not, then the problem lies elsewhere.
Why agonize something?
The D40 had for a while - normal autofocus, especially for such scenes - static in the bright sun.
If there was a D40 then remember what size the central focusing zone is. From time to time he does not see small, thin objects. Specifically, the first picture is exactly this situation, then with your hands. And according to the text from Simona it turns out that he meant only manual exposure control, he was not understood and “Ostap suffered”.
All pictures were taken with fully disabled automatic and autofocus, including ...
Why? It is necessary to read the article by the author of the site about the D40 ...
As far as I know, a macro is usually in manual autofocus and they do unless of course you have a special expensive lens.
Dear Simon, read, and carefully.
What can be the problem and I really can’t understand.
I have only one assumption: a faulty technique (perhaps back / front focus).
Macro, yes, they do it by hand, and there are good reasons for that. But what prevented me from using camera automation and autofocus for this particular shot is a mystery to me.
Dear KalekseyG - I didn't have d40 for long, but I don't remember such a problem with him. I also had to remove some branches - I did not experience any problems. Autofocus is not the best in this camera, of course, but to be unable to cope with such a task is somehow completely strange.
Ris.2
Ris.3
Figure 4
Ris.5
Ris.6
I realized that the matrix is good, behaves decently in the sun, and that this device is only for manual mode. I was pleasantly surprised by the received pictures ...
It all started when the author of the site described the camera as very good ...
I confirm ...
55-200 what version?
Ordinary without a stub and even made in China ...
Beautifully caught a butterfly.
Thanks…
In a room with artificial light, nothing happened ... Only daylight or a flash ...
There is one trick, for some reason I can't turn off the tracking autofocus ... I had to give it up altogether and focus manually ...
Surprisingly sharp for 55-200, did you sharply wind up sharping? I can’t get sharper, though not d5100.
or this:
If I had great fun, it would be visible, do not compare the D5100 with D40, and I already described my surprise at 55-200 without a stab, the shutter speed on these frames was from 800 to 1250 aperture F9, ISO 400 units. Believe it or not, I showed what happened.
At d5100. 200mm, diaphragm. 8-9.
Not only that I posted it in the wrong place by mistake, I wanted it in an article about the D40 ... now I will still convince everyone? Tomorrow I'll take my 5100 and try to do the same.
podskazhite.if put on this lens "polarik" then what is it fraught with?
Well, polarik is needed for certain tasks. A regular UV protective filter is best for continuous wear. On the polar, you also lose a couple of stops of aperture.
the fact is that it’s already a little darker. And the polarist will make it even darker. Well, thanks for the answer. I’ll experiment
Hello dear photographers.
I have 18-135, there is a problem with autofocus.
He focuses poorly, creaks, sometimes fidgets back and forth, he cannot catch.
I read it on the internet, they often write this happens with this model.
And all the information comes down to what is being handed over to the service, they are waiting for spare parts for a long time, etc.
I could not figure it out.
Maybe someone had such a problem, and how much will the repair cost?
Most likely he was dropped. I would not take it for repair, but bought something else.
No googling and start disassembling the object. Motor or position sensor, or both. In the repair, if you fix it in the workshop, you will leave its residual value as if it were a worker. In short, study the materiel and cool. One of the most fragile models - but very simple mechanically for all that.
“At full aperture, sharpness in the center of the frame is excellent starting from the wide open.”
"Chromatic aberrations are present - they are nowhere to be found on a cheap zoom lens."
I suppose it should be reformulated). I read you carefully, Arkady, recently.
I am interested in the answer to the following question: the focal length scale on the lens is nonlinear - approximately equal angles of rotation of the ring increase the focal length in different ways - from 18 to 24 (6), from 24 to 35 (11), from 35 to 50 (15), from 50 to 70 (20), from 70 to 105 (35) and, interestingly, the last range from 105 to 35 (30) changes by a very small angle of rotation of the ring. Is 135mm real or smaller in fact?
The scale is not accurate. Even with a fix, the declared focal point will vary depending on the distance of the object on which the lens is focused, the so-called "focus breathing".
Almost understood. It is simply surprising that the very small angle of rotation of the zoom ring in the last segment. There, the force is 1 or 2 degrees, and the stated change in focal length is approximately 30 mm.
The fence usually also says @@@
Compared with fixes (35mm, 50mm, 100mm, 135mm) when removing from a tripod, as well as with Tamron 18-270 zoom.
On focal lengths - 18, 35, 50, 100 - the frame size was the same for all.
At 135mm, Jupiter 37A showed a slightly larger zoom than 135 at Nikon and Tamron. Maybe this is a feature of Jupiter itself. The frame size of Nikon and Tamron coincided by 135mm.
It turns out that if you shoot by arranging the desired frame size, and not try to set specific millimeters, then the focal ones are true.
By the way, with the same settings (focal, shutter speed, lighting), Tamron 18-270 turned out to be lighter than Nikkor 18-135.