According provided by Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical lens is huge thanks to the store www.fotika.com.uawhere you can find a huge number of different used photographic equipment, including similar lenses.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical was introduced with the camera Nikon D80 back in the fall of 2006. It was produced only in Thailand, like many other inexpensive zooms and fixes.
Main technical specifications of Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical:
Review Instance Name | Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical |
Basic properties |
|
Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
Focal length | 18-135 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-202.5 mm |
Zoom ratio | 7.5 X (usually rounded to 8) |
Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105, 135 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 135 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 4.2 |
Stabilizer features | Lens lacks image stabilizer |
The weight | 385 g |
Optical design | 15 elements in 13 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
Transportation | Using a soft cover CL-0915 (the same cover was included in the package of delivery Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical) |
Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND” |
Release period | From August 2006 to August 2008, later replaced by a similar lens - Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical |
Instructions | View–> |
Price |
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 135 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.6
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
- 135 mm - F / 5.6
What you should pay attention to in the Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens:
- This is a camera lens class DX, that is, from cameras with a cropped matrix and using it at full frame will not do anything good. But due to the smaller coverage area of the matrix, it turned out less.
- The lens has built-in focus motor SWM, which allows you to use the lens on the entire line of Nikon digital SLR cameras, even on younger models of the type D40, D3000. It focuses really silently, but not very fast. For everyday life, speed is enough.
- Convenient range of focal lengths. We get a 7.5x zoom lens. This is a pretty convenient thing, those who take off on fixes understand what I'm writing about.
- The lens does not have an image stabilizer. Now this is a very convenient feature, and in this regard, the 18-105 VR, 18-200 VR and 16-85 VR lenses are winning, since the image stabilizer really helps when shooting.
- The mounts of the mount are made of plastic, and not of metal in higher quality specimens. On the one hand, this is bad, but on the other hand it reduces weight.
- Internal focus - It will help to use filters without any extra problems, and indeed, internal focusing is a pleasant trifle.
- When zooming, the lens is decent sucks in air, well, dust with him, but you yourself already guessed the consequences.
- The lens has a couple of super elements from ED (ultrafine glass), which are designed to improve the picture eliminating it from HA. But few people are surprised by this in our time, but for 2006 it was a great solution.
- Convenient focus mode - to adjust the focus you do not need to switch to manual focus mode - just twist the focus ring.
- Included lens hood. In the style of good tradition, the lens hood can be attached to the lens in the opposite position. This will allow you to always carry it with you, and most importantly, with its reverse position, it does not interfere with the zoom. For example, at 18-105, the lens hood slightly interferes with the zoom ring.
- Pretty easy. 18-105 VR is much harder.
- A serious drawback is small aperture, but we must remember that it is more inappropriate to demand from a lens of this class.
Focusing
Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D40, D90 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
I used almost everyone Nikon Nikkor DX Universal Zoom Lenses and I can summarize that the Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G autofocus speed is almost exactly the same as that of Nikon 18-105VR, Nikon 18-140mm VR, Nikon 18-200VR, Nikon 18-200mm GII VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-6.3 VR, and if we compare the focusing time from infinity to MDF and vice versa (the analysis can be done using video from the network). Of all the Nikon DX zoom lenses, it only focuses noticeably faster Nikon 16-85VR, Nikon 17-55, Nikon 18-70 и Nikon 16-80VR . Funny but even the simplest lenses Nikon 18-55G, 18-55GI, 18-55 VR, 18-55VRII still focus a little faster.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm across the entire range of focal lengths, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 4.2 magnification (the smaller the second ratio, the better the lens's macro capabilities). Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
About the picture:
Here you can write treatises and give many examples. But the final result of the picture in many respects depends not only on the lens and it is difficult to achieve a single accurate opinion. But still - the lens showed good sharpness on all focal ranges. At 18 mm, the corners are slightly soft, at 135 mm the sharpness is worse. But in general, sharpness is good, especially if you close the aperture a few stops.
The bokeh in the telephoto area is smooth, not aggressive - from a lens of this class is no longer necessary. Chromatic aberrations present - from them on a cheap zoom lens anywhere. Needless to 18mm HA the biggest and most terrible, just like distortion.
The vignetting of 135 and 18 mm, even on the cropped matrix, is quite strong and can be seen in the photo, but is easily removed in the editor.
Color rendering - all felt-tip pens taste and color are different, of course not the same as fast fixes.
What else is there?
Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-135mm has two main competitors, this 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor и 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR II AF-S DX Nikkor. They differ slightly in focal lengths and the presence of a stabilizer. The first of them I do not recommend, it gives a soft picture, the second I recommend because of its best performance. Also, competitors include Nikon 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX VR Nikkor, which attracts with its wide angle. What to choose from these four relatively cheap lenses is up to you. And there is still a good old Nikon 18-70mm f / 3.5-4.5G IF-ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor but everyone has already forgotten about it.
You can download the original photos in the '.JPEG' format at this link and another addition at this link.
Recommendations:
When shooting in the body range, always remember that the lens does not have a large aperturebecause it will not be able to provide short excerpts low ISO, so as not to pick up the ISO try not to shoot at the long end with shutter speed below 1/125 to avoid grease. For portraits, the lens is quite suitable in the area of 105-135mm, makes it possible to feel the bokeh, which is even wow for the zoom lens.
Due to the large diameter of the front lens, I advise you to immediately buy protective filter. I also recommend shooting at 6,3-8,0 apertures at all focal lengths - then the lens gives a really high-quality picture.
Prices for the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical lens in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Hack and predictor Aviator
Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED pretty good universal lens for all occasions. When writing a review, I showed normal sharpness, the rest of the indicators are in the aisles of the norm - and I do not need to demand more from an amateur zoom for such money. The only thing that confuses is the lack of an image stabilizer. Also, if you decide to buy this lens to replace the whale 18-55 - pay better attention to more advanced Nikon 18-105VR и Nikon 18-200VR.
Full list of all lenses Nikon Nikkor DX You can find at this link.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
4th photo is really very autumn
On one of the forums, I read that “pulls corners. gum does not last long. plastic bayonet (one year old and can be thrown away) ”as far as it is true.
for the distortion I wrote in the review. plastic mount
For more than 4 years I have been using it as a universal travel lens, the plastic mount is alive and well, even with frequent lens changes. I did not use a protective light filter - there are no scratches, no rubbing (I wipe with special lint-free disposable napkins after each outing). At first I even wanted to shove him off, but decided to leave him for travel. Everything that Arkady wrote about him is true (picks up dust, sharp at 6,3-8, low AF speed, HA is present, but for Nikonov at the output in JPG it is not scary, because on older models of cameras there is a soft in-camera HA are minimized).
In about 30k frames, the gearbox loosened up, and little was left of the vaunted sharpness - I want to aim, I want to miss it completely. For 20 shots I have already gone to software. Not tenacious
I fully confirm. Sharpness starts (I started) to miss earlier, frames in 10. But, for a cheap universal field-trip lens, you can forgive and adapt.
I bought this lens with Nikon D80 somewhere in 2007-8 and despite the fact that he is constantly at work (I have the sharpest one, much sharper than 18-105), the gum did not stretch and the mount without complaints. I want to take another one, and sell it 18-105 as not meeting expectations!
> Nikon D80 somewhere in 2007-8
Similarly. More than 20k shots taken. No complaints. Universal for travel. I think in return to take 18-140.
Hello. Comparing with 18-55, which picture is better (sharpness, color rendition)? for 18-200 there is no money yet, and this can be taken for a little money. Is it worth changing?
Better look at 18-105. Between 18-55 and 18-135 the latter wins in all respects.
Arkady, good afternoon!
Let me ask you again about the lenses: shooting children (small focal length) at home and on the street on Nikon D40, what to take: 18-105 or 18-135? In the second, a larger focal range and less weight attracts. Now 55-200 - the minimum distance is too long to shoot at home - you constantly have to “go” to the far corner. I hope I explained clearly, advise between these two. Your advice on 18-200 - read until ready for the price. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! I will look at 18-105 (if I find it at an adequate price)
Hello, will there be a Nikon 18-200 review? :) This lens is of great interest as a replacement for the whale 18-55, however, the focal lens is more universal.
I have been using this glass for 4 years, regularly. I am quite satisfied with the quality of the picture (from this copy), there are no loose rubber bands and external faults so far ... maybe I got a good copy ...
I have been involved in photography all my life — and I have such a wish — that Nikon’s engineers create an 18-135 / 2.8 lens with a metal lens mount. It is very good in focus and if you give it high quality workmanship + good glasses, it would not be worth the price ( I do not mean money)
I absolutely agree.
Nikon 135mm f / 3.5 Nikkor-Q Auto (Ai) what do you think it is for Jupiter 37A and what beam to take the same price, the difference is 100 rubles?
Not used, I can not say.
Advise what to take after 18-55 whale (D40)?
In money it is limited to 400 cu so I do not pull 18-200.
I am considering 18-105 ($ 300) and 18-135 ($ 200) ...
It is better to save up money and take something like 18-200. I do not recommend any of the presented.
Hello, Arkady. I have owned the Nikon D80 Kit for 4 years, I’m very pleased, but soon the time will come to upgrade, most likely it will also be Nikon, something newer, but so far I have decided to expand my capabilities through optics. I read different things here, I chose the Nikon AF-S 50mm f / 1.4G NIKKOR lens (I began to feel a lack of aperture ratio with my regular lens). But my question is not about that: I rummaged in the bins and found a wonderful Soviet Tair-3 4,5 / 300-A lens with a quality mark (such a hefty bulldozer for Zenith, I bought 20 years ago, one leather wardrobe trunk is worth it!) So Now, tell me how an authoritative pro, what to do? On the one hand, a thing is good, but an old, threaded connection, maybe what kind of adapter exists for a Nikon mount? Or is a thing hopelessly outdated, suitable only for a museum?
Find your answer here https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/03/obzor-tair-3-300-mm-otzuvu/ and in the Soviet lenses section.
Thank you very much, Arkady, I found everything, comprehensive information
Hello, Arkady! Very interesting articles. I am a beginner teapot ... This question was decided to buy Nikon 5100 which lens to choose Nikon 18-200 f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR II Zoom-Nikkor,
Nikon 18-300 f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor, Nikon 28-300 f / 3.5-5.6G ED FX AF-S VR Nikkor, or Nikon D5100 Kit 18-55 VR + 55-300VR included. help me please!!! I really like to take pictures, but the first one is a DSLR ... Landscapes, portraits, animals, children and just partying, but with good quality. can buy something for a start ...
18-300 is quite expensive, if you have money, then take a nice versatile person Nikon 18-200 f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR II Zoom-Nikkor, for the house it will be enough with the head and even more.
thanks, and when you write about him ...
I ask for advice: NIKOR 18-200 and TAMRON 18-200. They are the same in parameters and can I put TAMRON ON the NIKON-D3100? Give the characteristic please. I am still a beginner in this business, but I want to change 18-55 to tamron 18-200 already. It’s cheaper -Nikolay.
Tamron 18-200 has F/6.3@200mm and Nikon has F/5.6@200mm. The instructions for the camera indicate that the camera cannot work normally when focusing on lenses with an aperture less than F / 5.6, therefore - Tamron is only an alternative.
I used to have a Nikon 18-135mm lens. After a while, he began to work strangely ... In the extreme positions of the focal point, he practically does not focus. The motor makes a quiet clicking sound. In other positions, focusing is fast and accurate. Clicks are sometimes heard.
In this case, the value of the minimum and set aperture transmitted to the camera can be from 3.5 to 5.6, regardless of the set value and focal length.
According to reviews on the Internet, this problem manifests itself quite often. Experts say that the problem is with the motor.
I really liked the lens, despite the fact that without stabilization. Filmed on it a lot and for a long time. On the positive side: Fast (really fast) auto-focus, fits well in the hand, there is a focusing ring (helps to quickly change the focusing object if you do not use tracking auto-focus) It rarely misses the focus (out of 30 - 40 frames, no more than 2 x "by", and those when on a vskidku).
Cons: Strong "vignette" at the short end, a plastic focusing ring that dangles and twists a little. In addition, it has a rotation limitation (my Tamron 70-300 VC USD F4-5.6 has a rubber ring and has no rotation limitation, which in my opinion is much nicer)
At the long end 135mm often misses. You clean up to 105mm, everything is fine.
Now sold complete with D3000. I bought a D7000 with a whale 18-105
Arkady, good day. Tell me with this question: I have a lens from this review 18-135. I want to buy something a notch higher. The only "BUT" is the availability of a high-quality Japanese polaric at 67mm (it's a pity to refuse or sell it). Are there any good 67mm filter lenses for portraits. By the way, I recently took a photoset with this lens, for the first time I was pleased with the picture, but I want the best. Thanks in advance.
there are 85 1.8g
25.05.2013 in 22: 20
…. forgot to say Nikon D80 camera. I think full-frame lenses will please, so to speak, in case of a camera change.
Hello! I flew the shutter to the Nikon D40x (exhausted the resource of about 98000 frames), there was a Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED lens. What model of Nikon (body) do you recommend buying.
PS I'm not a professional (only an amateur), but I filmed weddings and other celebrations for friends just like a pro, for free. So my photos were appreciated by everyone and they said that they are even better than the pros on Canon ... I shoot everything in automatic mode and I hate the flash, I try to shoot in daylight :))) I love my D40x, but I read your article “Choosing amateur Nikon camera and lens to it ”and was confused ... ..
I would gladly help in choosing if you would indicate the approximate amount you are counting on.
Thank you for responding. At the moment I plan to buy Used on the Ebay website. Browse on com, co.uk and de. Ready to spend about $ 300 on this pleasure
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281166233092?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190896250717?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
You tell me which model and I will try to catch the auction.
Look for D3100 from your hands, you can buy it in Moscow with a small (5-20 thousand frames) mileage for 8,5-11 thousand Russian ones, that is, in principle, it fits into your budget, in terms of use, IMHO - it practically does not differ from 40 , maybe just a little.
Approximately $ 300-350 can be used. You can’t buy a good one from us in Latvia. I will focus on ebay
You tell me which carcass my lens will fit. If you need to save money, then we will save. Or should I buy the D40x again.
Your lens will fit any Nikon DX camera, you can find a detailed list of models here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/01/what-camera-nikon-shoud-i-buy/ (all except d600)
Say, be a weasel, you can know if you’re fond of it! uncle
Please tell me the objective for Nikon 5100, so that it was sharp, autofocus. Universal, nature, portraits, family shoot. thanks
Please help with choosing a fixed lens. I have a Nokon D80. limit of 8 thousand rubles.
Find recommendations here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/01/what-camera-nikon-shoud-i-buy/
please tell me which lens to take for partretny shooting?
50mm or 85mm with aperture 1.8;)
dh18-135mm and take it. it’s a pity that only some of them were left. You can run into bullshit. Well, take 18-140mm. it is certainly expensive and the bokeh is not as super-duper as 18-135.
“And then there is the good old Nikon 18-70mm f / 3.5-4.5G IF-ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor, but everyone has already forgotten about it.”
Hello! I want to change the 35mm fix to the whale zoom (the child has grown up, you can’t keep up with the fix, and it's a bit cramped in the apartment with 35mm :) Just choose between 18-135 and 18-70. What are they compared to each other? Task: shooting a child. Camera d7000. I would be very grateful for the advice :)