At the moment Nikon D80 is an outdated camera, but many amateur and professional photographers continue to use it. The camera was released in the fall of 2006, but is still popular, this is due to the huge set of useful functions and its trouble-free operation. The camera usually comes with one of 3 lenses
- Nikkor AF-S DX 18-135 / 3.5-5.6 G IF-EDthat was announced with the camera
- Nikkor 18-70mm f3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX, one of the best station wagons
- Nikon AF-S DX 18-55 F3.5-5.6G, a pretty whale lens.
Nikon D80 body
Advantages of the device to which you should pay attention:
- An excellent viewfinder, more than its predecessors, but still does not provide 100% coverage.
- Optional liquid crystal display. This is not a relic of the past, but a convenient thing that allows you to quickly configure the necessary little things and save battery in contrast to the large main display. Also, there is a backlight mode, which is very easily turned on by the on / off button of the camera.
- Focusing drive. He is "engine"In common people or" screwdriver "- will work with all lenses from Nikon that have autofocus. This will significantly expand the range of possible optics and save some money. The motor turns focus pretty quickly on my Nikkor 50mm F1.8 D.
- Matrix in 10MP, type of CCD sensor, working with different cameras, I can say that CCD has sometimes more pleasant colors than CMOS. Also about 10MP - today it is not much and not a little. Don't chase megapixels at all, even professional full-frame cameras Nikon D3, Nikon D700, Nikon D3s have 12MP. I advise my article Battle of Megapixels.
- Many focus points (areas) (total 11 zones), as much as in the newer Nikon D90 or old semi-professional Nikon D200This is a really useful feature when taking pictures. After 3 focus points on Nikon D40, 11 points on the D80 are just a huge amount.
- The custom menu, it would seem a trifle, but you can customize the menu for yourself. I usually put out there ISO control functions, the built-in flash mode, battery power and shooting modes (portrait, standard).
- Great battery, same as in nikon d200, d300(s) D90, D700 making it easy to change batteries between cameras. On average, the battery can withstand 1000 to 1500 frames, depending on the lens and shooting method.
- FP Flash Sync Modeallowing you to shoot with an external flash with shutter speed up to 1/4000. An indispensable function, how to use, read in my article "how to take pictures with flash during the day»
- External flash control mode. An indispensable feature - allows you to remotely control external flash units at a distance in i-TTL mode. SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900 и SB-910 Ideal for such control. It is enough to switch the built-in flash to the control mode (C - Comand Mode) and set the synchronization settings.
- A programmable button on which you can hang a number of functions, I personally set it to focus modes - by point, auto, dynamic zone.
- A separate button for bracketing will always allow you to simplify the setup and selection of the frame with a successful exposure. By the way, there is an opportunity bracketing by BB and by flash.
Disadvantages:
- Joystick (multi selector) without central button - quite unusual for our time. This slightly reduces the ergonomics of the camera. Even on small Nikon D40 the joystick has a central OK button. In the D80, the "OK" button is taken out separately and to press it, you need to move your fingers from one place to another.
- Metering does not work exposure with manual lenses, a rather inconvenient thing if you, for example, use Soviet optics. And any manual optics from Nikon will work only in manual mode - this means that the camera cannot measure exposure with lenses that do not have a chip.
- The camera does not show as fast a reaction as we would like it to be (although this does not apply to the shooting process itself). There is no info button. The overall reaction speed (menu, switching modes) as in Nikon D40. But then, navigation on the secondary display is just great.
- Not necessary and not programmable button for viewing depth of field. On the cropped matrix, it does not really allow you to peer into the DOF (DOF). It would be better if the company spent on such a pleasant trifle as vibrational cleaning of the matrix or increased the shutter speed to 1/8000.
- On my copy, after 20.000 frames, the gum on the rear panel began to peel off - most Nikon's problem. It is solved by repeated gluing, and sometimes by complete removal from the camera. After 128.000 frames on the camera, the frame counter turns off and starts counting in the opposite direction. But the mileage of over 100.000 on my copy only says that the camera is really very high quality.
At the moment this is Nikon's cheapest and most practical DSLR APS-C camera, which will allow you to get almost all the necessary functions of a professional camera. At the moment, there are practically no new cameras on sale, but in the secondary market you can find a huge offer of Nikon D80. If the functionality is very important at work for minimal funds, then the Nikon D80 is the best option.
Nikon D80 rear view
A brief comparison with a relative Nikon D90:
Nikon D80 has a basic ISO of 100, against Nikon D90 with his lo1. I Nikon D90 the maximum ISO is raised by one step, which is 6400. The Nikon D80 has a 2,5 inch screen with 230 thousand pixels, versus 3 inch with 920.000 pixels D90. And of course, D90 there is a Live View mode and video shooting. Nikon D90 also wins in terms of speed - 4.5 fps versus 3 fps. Otherwise, the cameras are very similar. I do not recommend upgrading from Nikon D80 to Nikon D90, D300, D300s without emergency. If you go already, then on Nikon D7000 or full frame Nikon D700 and others like that.
Here link to the archive with the originals - 586 MB, 73 photos in .NEF format (RAW) from the Nikon D80 camera.
Brief comparison with ancestor Nikon D200:
Nikon D80 same matrix as semi-professional camera Nikon D200. The only difference is the matrix kit, Nikon D200 it is double, which allows you to do 5 frames per second, while the Nikon D80 is single, which allows you to do only 3 frames per second. In general, they say that the matrices are different. The picture quality is very, very similar, I used a long time Nikon D200 and D80. Also, Nikon D200 has dust and moisture protection, it has more functionality, can work with manual lenses of the type AI-S, the shutter speed is half as fast as the Nikon D80 - 1/8000c versus 1/4000c. Also, the Nikon D200 has a 1,005 sensor, versus 420 for the Nikon D80. Nikon D80 uses SD cards, against big ones CF from Nikon D200. Well, the ergonomics are different. With Nikon D80 you will get the same picture as Nikon D200. When choosing between Nikon D80 and Nikon D200, the decisive factor was the battery life, which runs out very quickly on the two hundred. I do not recommend upgrading from Nikon D80 to Nikon D200.
Nikon D70(s), in my humble opinion, to compare is not practical due to the large difference in functionality. From D70 he took his classic design.
Sample photos on Nikon D80
All photos in this review without treatment. Size reduced to 2 or 3 MP and data from EXIF.
Features and recommendations for the use of Nikon D80:
The camera can very accurately show the number of spent frames for each battery and show the battery charge level with an accuracy of one percent. By the way, the battery is the same as the Nikon D90, D700, D200, D300, D300s, it’s convenient for me to change batteries between my D90 and D80 cameras.
Tips:
- I advise you to program a function button to select the focus mode, this will help you quickly switch between automatic and spot focus mode. Also turn off high ISO and long shutter noise reduction functions, since they greatly reduce the number of frames in the buffer, there are about three of them. With disabled features you can achieve 6 frames in RAW in the buffer.
- I use Nikon D80 and 32GB Class 10 without any problems SD HC memory card, this means that the camera works adequately with new memory cards, so you don’t have to worry about the age and compatibility of the camera.
- Since this is still a DX camera, I do not advise buying expensive DX lenses for it, then you still have to switch to a full frame. Well, if the DX format is fine, then Nikon 35mm F1.8, Nikon 55-200 and classic Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor will be a great addition to the camera for little money.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Nikon D80 - an obsolete miracle of camera manufacturing with great functionality. Suitable for both amateurs and professionals. Recommended as a budget option for any need.
I advise you to look at the page recommendations for choosing an amateur Nikon camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Although the kit was almost complete, without a hood and a rubber eyecup ...
Someone came across swollen plugs for the connectors of the remote control, usb, video output? In recent days, they are getting worse and worse in their places, either because of the heat or for other reasons unknown to me. I read on the Internet that rubber bands are soaked in isopropyl alcohol or gasoline "galoshes", but will it help the plugs, and in general, how to be, after all, they are not removed from the camera. Can anyone come across this question?
I bought it, I BOUGHT! I don’t regret it yet, I am studying a difficult menu ... FOR THE FIRST TIME it was required to carefully read the instructions! External "puff" at 1 \ 2000 or its control with synchronization from 8 meters is great! you need access to nature with her.
What GREAT colors! DIRT is perfectly visible on the matrix - against the background of the sky ... Now you need to clean ...
It is not surprising that there is dirt, it is clearly visible on Ф13. I personally shoot most often on open ones, below f8 I do not close - because diffraction eats sharpness. And on f1.4 or f1.8 or even f5.6, dirt is either completely invisible, or barely on homogeneous surfaces. For landscapes, you need to clean the matrix, and for portraits on the open, you can shoot dirty stuff.
What I also really liked was the ability to connect to a PC and modern LCD TVs as a "Removable Disk" - accordingly, using the TV remote control, you can view all photos from the D80 (though if they are in .JPEG format) ...
Good afternoon. I love your reviews very much, thank you for the work done. I wanted to ask for advice. I have a Nikon D3100 + Kitovsky 18-55 lens and Helios 44-2. I’ve been shooting for more than 3 years, mainly landscapes, friends and relatives. Since I plan to develop further in photography, I want to buy another camera, I can’t decide which one to switch to: D80 or D90 (there is an opportunity to take used). The parameters are not much different, but still interested in your opinion))
Sorry to get in, the question is to Arkady, as I understand it. But I will try to speak out too.
The d80 is good in terms of color and more convenient control than the d3100.
The D90, unlike the D80, has video and behaves a little better with a lack of light (the D80 on the ISO 800 is not very good).
Ideally, I would like to hear what the d3100 does not like. For landscapes need a wide dynamic range, and here Nikon d7000 will behave well. For friends who run fast, too, it will go - better autofocus, more shooting speed. And if you don't like the colors d3100 - d80 will be better. But for landscapes, you have to put in more effort.
It would also be nice to know something else:
1) what is the price of d80 and d90.
2) is it possible to take something more expensive - d7000 or even d7100 (there it will be easier to work with helios).
Well, also, maybe just change the glass? For example, to buy a telephoto lens or an autofocus fixture type 35 1.8dx? Or maybe change the whale to tamron / sigma 17-50 2.8 ... In general, there are many questions :)
If you strictly answer your question, then I would take d80, if there is no need for a video.
Thank you :)
Thank you very much for the answer and your advice :) The price of D80 and D90 is the same within 4000 UAH., Only to D80 can still be included in the package for 2000 UAH. take a fix of 50 1/8 AF. I can’t afford myself more expensive yet. For a long time I was thinking of changing my D3100 or collecting and buying a fix + telephoto, and then I came across an ad for sale. And I thought about it, but is it worth it?))) In principle, my D3100 suits me, it only saddens me that it does not have an internal motor, and AF lenses will only work with manual focus. Well, one word I will still think))) Thanks again :)
I own a Nikon D80 paired with a 50 mm f / 1.8D lens. Sometimes there is a desire to take a couple of three night shots. Has anyone tried shooting with a camera at night? I understand that the camera is noisy and it is extremely difficult to achieve high-quality photos (+ the lens is not particularly suitable), but still ... tell me it is better to work with the settings, personally I put the following:
- shooting mode manual M;
- manual focusing;
- diaphragm from 1,8 to 2,8;
- exposure 6-8 seconds (for stars);
- ISO from 800 to 1000
- shutter lag ON.
- of course, photo in RAW format
As far as I understand, it’s better to set the white balance manually (from 2850K and higher), what temperature is better to set in your opinion?
What to do with noise cancelers?
- Slow Shutter OFF or ON?
- High ISO High ISO OFF or ON?
Tell me, what settings still need to pay attention to achieve a better result?
As for me, for stars 50mm on d80 it is practically not applicable. If on 5dm3 you can put iso to 10 thousand and there in 6-8 seconds you get a normal result, then on d80 even iso 800 is not very good. In your case, I would change the lens at least by 18-55, set it to 18mm, the aperture to 3.5 and try to look for a shutter speed that will not blur the stars due to the movement of the earth. Ideally, an even shorter focus lens. For example, I shoot stars for sigma 10-20 or canon 10-18, as well as ff for fish zenitar 16 2.8. I have never even tried at 50mm, because for such a short shutter speed of the milky way, and the stars themselves will not be particularly visible.
Thanks pastor! Already figured out the question. Indeed, the maximum that can be squeezed out is an evening shot of the landscape, in which the brightest stars will be visible.
Sorry to be so slow with the answer :) Have a nice shot!
Thanks for the nice review. It is possible to buy a D80 mileage of about 27000 frames, with Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR optics price of $ 360, what can I advise on this?
Well, with such a lens it’s normal, I wouldn’t refuse
So the lens captivates me, albeit the camera with age. Just if you add about $ 100 you can take Nikon D5300 + kit 18-55 VRII, so I don’t know what to do (((
Are you a lover? and you are a fan of such questions. So the requirements for equipment are limited, I have 5200 for a long time, and 40 and 200 are used. If you are 80, you can then buy 50 / 1.8D and be happy.
Thanks for the advice, I understand that a photographer takes a photograph, and that good optics on an average camera level are better than a good camera with poor optics.
Thank you for your time and reply.
Something seems to me that a dark zoom with such a magnification cannot be “good”, but as a maximum it is “not bad” travel.
And I can hardly imagine where I will need (here is "very") focal 135-200 (on a crop camera!) With an aperture of 5.6.
All of the above is my personal opinion :)
Controversial) Aperture of about 4 works fine with proper lighting, and new cameras work better in the dark. And it’s more convenient for an amateur to rotate a 6-10x zoom than to get used to a 3x 18-55x zoom
such a focal point on the crop - to take pictures of the birds.
Aperture is about 4 at the wide end.
The new cameras are better in noise and autofocus, but here people say that the 18-200 is a good lens, which in conjunction with the d80 is preferable to the d5300 with the usual 18-55 ???
This is all IMHO, but I would recommend a modern carcass with any budget lens, which, with appropriate experience and understanding of the topic, will be replaced with suitable glass.
well, or for $ 450 you can buy a Nikon D7000 with standard optics and a range of 50000. I really need advice on what is best to buy from this trinity))
If you plan to shoot people often, I would take d80 - it gives nice colors right away. But something more aperture for it is desirable - AF50 / 1,8 or sigma-tamron 17-50 / 2,8. The d5300 has one of the advantages: less is lighter, high ISO, colors, they say, are not bad; cons - cut in management and functions, such as a "screwdriver", fast. sync with flash, etc., but a simple amateur does not care.
Good evening. I have such a tricky question. On the D80 camera, when viewed from the front with the lens on the carcass from the left, there is a small lever that it represents if I put an 18-55 kit, it doesn’t catch, and if I put a manual with a Luchnikov chip, the device does not turn on on d60 everything is fine; the installation manual clicks on this lever
Everything is described here. https://radojuva.com/2012/06/nikon-ai-s-old-lens-about/
For ten years I’ve been shooting Nikon D50 (graduation photo albums, and much more). The camera’s mileage is about 90 thousand.
The budget is limited. Is it worth taking the D90 bu. Or ... finish off your d50 to a complete stop and look for something else?
I would update. D90 is worse in color, but otherwise the picture is a cut above.
Tell me who knows: what kind of synchronization does the camera have with an external flash? (out of FP mode). Thank.
1 \ 200 s
Thank you.
I decided to see how dirty the matrix was, took a picture at aperture 22 (lens 50 1.8D) and noticed a bright spot in the center, it was not visible on any other aperture, I noticed at 22 and then, on an underexposed frame. Is this normal? And if there is a problem, then what is it connected with? Full size image link: https://pp.vk.me/c837223/v837223035/12d5a/rf0Z_34H2kM.jpg
Arkady, good day! Please tell me in your opinion which camera is better to pay attention to the Nikon D80 or D200?
I am not Arkady, but…. 200 has only one drawback - it eats a lot of energy. The functionality is much more. Supports manual lenses. There are more iron buttons (levers, switches). The speed and buffer together make it possible to catch exactly that frame. And etc.
d200 definitely.
But stock up on batteries
Arkady thanks for the article. The other day I bought a D80. I am a pensioner, but I want a lot. I ask you to advise a specific wide-angle zoom, naturally budget
Arkady thanks for the article. The other day I bought a D80. I am a pensioner, but I want a lot. I ask you to advise a specific wide-angle zoom, naturally budget or a little more expensive. All AF-S lenses and I need a screwdriver. I ask you to drop the answer by mail.
Sincerely, Tkachev V.
Whale 18-55 will not work?
18mm, film equivalent 27mm, too much! I would like an equivalent 20-nickname, but it is expensive (12-24), I hope to find an equivalent of 24 (this is 16 mm crop) aperture 2.8 or 4.
possible whale 18-55, of the new. In sharpness, he is the one.
If it is the wide and zoom that matters, then AF 20-35 / 2.8 D IF
In general, the best shirik-zoom on crop is Tokin's 124, 128 and 116 models. There is a review for each here.
20-35 will not work, this is a minimum of 30mm. I looked at the Tokinovskys (thanks for the information) laid my eyes (for the price) on the AF 16.5-135 f / 3.5-5.6 AT-X DX but the long zoom, the zoom is what I need AF 16-50 f / 2.8 PRO but I'm not afraid of to my teeth.
16-135 I'm afraid a strong garbage.
If you need a fast wagon, then Nikon's 16-85 with a motor
Hello ! I am a photographer. I would like to know your opinion! I choose between three cameras: Nikon d5100 with a 50mm lens and Nikon d80 with a 50mm lens and Canon 500d with a 50mm lens. . I choose a camera for working with people. I don’t know what to choose. Hope to help, thanks in advance!
are you sure you are?
You have a dumb question. Yes, I am. What's next?
Nah, the answer is dumber.
No, you are not.
You don’t even have a camera!
Ahahahah, I have a camera) I just want to buy another one))) so still no, your question is dumber!)
I bought a scalpel - already a surgeon!
Guys, tell me what else to buy to be a cardiac surgeon "- this is your level of logic
+1 The photographer would not ask such a question.
+1
You can work with people in different ways. How do you “work” with them?
Offhand, of these options 5100. He is the newest. His classmate is Canon 600d.
For people, d80 is better - the skin color will be more interesting, sometimes unusually beautiful, they will say - it removes cool. And there are more buns - control, screwdriver, fast. sync, important for the photographer.
Skin color should be correct, not interesting. Moreover, 3 frames per second is darkness. And if the venerable age does not bother, then the canon has 40d. The skin color is correct, the speed is 6,5 fps, there is 1/8000, work with fast CF cards.
What is the right skin color, everyone (and especially women who are taking off) understood in their own way. Natural, as there is a skinton, IMHO, not a single one will. Offer not from the list, so you can reach a unit.
Friends, Hello!
There was a problem. When the camera is turned on, the Err error lights up. Without numbers. When the shutter is released, the photo is not saved. What could be the problem? Can someone come across this problem?
Maybe there is no memory card in it?
According to manual Err (flashes) - camera malfunction - Press shutter-release button again. If the error persists, contact a Nikon-authorized service center.
There is a map. All OK. with a map. Shutter fires. But the photo does not save. Sometimes the shutter freezes in a raised state.
Is the battery OK and charged?
Everything is OK, I tried 3 pieces. All only with charging :(
You have a problem with the soft shutter wheel. It is treated with a banal bulkhead and gluing a metal plate to the program wheel with glue. This is a disease of D80.
small recommendations from personal experience:
1) Dismantling and assembling should be carried out in medical (rubber) gloves. It can shiban current from the flash capacitor or somewhere else, which will affect the subsequent operation of the camera. Moreover, during work, your hands may sweat.
2) Fix all assembly steps! Throw all the bolts in piles and preferably take pictures, sign.
3) To be sooooo careful. All wiring in the chamber is thin and easily broken.
4) Buy a screwdriver specifically for the camera body bolts. The bolts have been twisted for a long time, and can be twisted poorly. Tearing them off is very simple. A screwdriver specially for bolts minimizes such a moment.
I did everything myself. There is a lot of information on the Internet. There is a video for disassembling the D80 (D80 err part 1).
But relying on it, you will not reach the software wheel. Further I relied on the article: http://nesovet.livejournal.com/366116.html
In any case, when working with any tool you have to repair it from time to time).
Hello! I would like to know from knowledgeable people whether it is worth buying this camera with a range of 10k shots, 2007 release? How relevant is this model?
Sincerely, Eugene.
PS Due to lack of funds I am going to sell the Olympus e-m10 of the first generation, and I think it’s cheaper to jump to Nikon :)
Add to your question. The camera is 10 years old and has a mileage of 10 thousand. If the question was about the car, there would immediately be a suspicion of unwinding the speedometer. Do they do this with Nikon / Canon cameras?
If only the shutter was changing. It often happens that the camera just lay, used little.
Does it automatically reset or do the servicemen zero? If the second, then it turns out they can do this without replacing the shutter. So?
I think it's worth buying. Relevant in that it gives colorful pictures. Differences from modern ones - there is no video, ISO is smaller, pixels are also smaller, for me this is a plus - light files and the likelihood of soap is less. Does the counter twist? - there are such rumors, look at the appearance - almost like new or how was football played?
+1, could damage the case if twisted sloppy)
And what about the dynamic range? In the nikon club on the forum they say that it is very low, and on the street you have to sacrifice something - either the sky or the faces)
Well, you look even here examples of photos on D80, D200, D40 - where is there “very low DD” (ie loss of detail on black or white)? The knocked-out sky, by the way, does not apply to DD, it “did not fit into the metering”, and on the D800 the same happens and they know how to deal with it. (The same Yulyasha teaches). So you can keep reading the forums, everything is in your hands.
Hello. If it's not a secret, how to achieve just such a photo processing, as here as an example? Maybe there is such a video lesson, or some advice? WITH
thank you.
Hello, dear Arkady! Thanks for your informative reviews. I've already read a whole bunch of them.) A DSLR camera is my old dream, which I never could afford, but with the current prices ..
Now I have the idea to take a used one. What would you advise to choose between d40 and d80? d40 can be found for 1800-2500 UAH, which is very pleasing. But the risk of running into a killed camera increases due to its venerable age and my ignorance in all the intricacies of checking when buying. d80 is a class higher, but there are a lot of negative reviews about high noise levels. Both models have their pros and cons. Which one is worth taking if I really want to try myself in photography, learn the intricacies of manual settings, etc. But the convenience of shooting is also important, because the main model will be a little son who runs like crazy, completely blurring 9 out of 10 frames. Will I be able to “catch” him with these cameras? Or is it worth saving up for a device that is faster and with more focusing points? Perhaps you can recommend another model for my purposes?
Thanks in advance for your reply. And I apologize for the possible stupidity of the questions .. I'm just starting to figure it all out.)
Hello! I am the owner of Nikon D80, I actually started with it - this is my first camera, after which I switched to a full-frame camera, because I saw no reason to change crop to crop. Even today, the D80 gives a juicy picture, peculiar, let's say, with “its own face”. You shouldn't worry about the noise, believe me, without experience it is difficult to notice the difference between a noisy and a not noisy picture, especially since the noise in the D80 manifests itself at ISO above 800, for example, I rarely set this (or higher) value - in the evening, at home indoors no flash.
I can't say anything about the Nikon D40, I only know that its functionality is much less than that of advanced cameras, including the D80. Judging by the opinions, the pictures from the D40 and D80 are very similar, since both cameras are built on a CCD-matrix, only the D40 has only 6 megapixels and the D80 is larger - 10 megapixels.
Controlling the Nikon D80 is very easy, fast and convenient, especially when you get used to it ... some settings can be changed without taking your eyes off the viewfinder, or using an additional monochrome screen without getting into the camera menu. You can take pictures of a child on the street without any problems, but at home it is most convenient with a flash ... without a flash, neither d80, nor d40, nor any other amateur camera will hardly be able to clearly catch a restless child) 11 focusing points is quite enough, especially since Nikon cameras have autofocus very tenacious.
Don't worry about the reliability or the deadness of the camera ... at least the D80, as they say, is very reliable, I think the same applies to the D40. My camera has already run over 90 thousand frames, and so far there have been no complaints about its operation. Arkady's camera, as far as I know, also ran over a hundred thousand, and there are many such examples.
Do not consider this an advertisement, but now I am reluctant to part with it, so if you are interested in the D80, please contact)
I am a pensioner, I have a D-80 camera, I shoot everything that flies and crawls for many years, and today I checked the frame counter 125650 and plows as Karl’s dad, the machine that’s not killed is happy with everything
I have an urgent question. Does the d80 have the ability to adjust autofocus to the lens giving front focus. I want to buy a 30mm 1.4 from Sigma, and the owner says there is such a problem. If there is an opportunity to give a quick answer, you would help me a lot. Thanks.
Please be weasel…. the opportunity to take d80 for $ 100 the device itself in the garnim stanі ... on the viglyad ... if the screen is black !! I want the menu to work without a problem and to re-view the photo too ... but if the photographer is using a black screen ... the battery charge is 10% and there is no more power to charge .. What can you do with the economy of the battery?
It is not clear what kind of black screen we are talking about. When shooting through an optical viewfinder, there should not be anything on the LCD screen. This is not a soap box and not a smartphone, where until the last we see what we are shooting.
True, there is a separate liveview mode on the mirrors, when on the LCD screen we see a picture before shooting, as on soap dishes and smartphones. But on the DSLRs in this mode, they either shoot video, or in special cases when it is inconvenient through the optical viewfinder, for example, to shoot from the ground.
On Nikon D80, as far as I remember, there is no such liveview as the possibility of shooting video ...
No, you don’t understand me… I’m thinking there’s no liveview. Already on the screen, you can see the information the charge of the battery is how the card is full… in the mode of the photographer, it’s okay…. and replace the central information screen with black ... until the end of the canon 400d on the panel є the display button for the economy of the battery .... which may be the same as history. Dyakuyu for vidpovid
Alexander, in the D80 add. information about settings and modes is constantly displayed on the additional screen, which is located on the top right of the camera, and on the main screen, the captured image is displayed after the shutter is released, provided this option is enabled in the main menu. Download and read the user manual for the D80.
I do not recommend upgrading from Nikon D80 to Nikon
Probably just an "upgrade"? )
Hello,
I have a D80. I want to buy a flash, I look at the SB-700, SB-910. I also came across SB-N5, but there are no reviews about it. Can you tell me how she is? and does it fit my camera? Is it a waste of money? thank.
Hello, optimal - SB-910 or SB-900, in extreme cases - SB-700. And SB-N5, so, baby talk, because only its leading number is three times less, I am silent for the rest of the functionality.
Check out another SB-800. Functionally better than 700, but more sophisticated. And often tired. But the automatic without TTL mode is sometimes necessary - in the 700 it is not.