While this entry is being updated, here are a few of my galleries on cameras with a CCD sensor:
|
|||||
CMOS VS CCDComments: 193, on the topic: ccd vs cmosAdd a comment |
|||||
|
|
|||||
|
|||||
CMOS VS CCDWhile this entry is being updated, here are a few of my galleries on cameras with a CCD sensor: Comments: 193, on the topic: ccd vs cmosAdd a comment |
|||||
|
|
|||||
Copyright © Radojuva.com. Blog author - Photographer in Kiev Arkady Shapoval. 2009-2023
English-version of this article https://radojuva.com/en/2011/07/ccd-vs-cmos/comment-page-1/
Version en español de este artículo https://radojuva.com/es/2011/07/ccd-vs-cmos/comment-page-1/
Forgot the third type of matrix - the three-layer Foveon. At low ISO, the rest are resting ...
Why, remember, it's just that the most inveterate CCD VS CMOS war is being discussed here. Actually, I wrote an article to show that it is better to take pictures than to bother with types. For you, as an astrophysicist, the study of different types of sensors, I think, will be interesting and understandable, but for ordinary people just extra tons of garbage on the forums.
Where is the article?
Probably in the same place as the CCD matrix.
Well then, in 2020, at the d40 gallery on the Macro Planar, I prepared https://radojuva.com/2020/04/carl-zeiss-makro-planar-2-50-zf-2-t/ her even Nikon Rumors reposted
http://www.sigma-sd.com/SD15/specification.html, i.e. foveon is a modification of the CMOS matrix
Why - “astrophysicist”? ))) And the difference between foveon and all the rest IMHO is much more noticeable than between CMOS and CCD. Why did I choose foveon for myself, with all the undeniable shortcomings of both the matrix itself and the camera. Color rendition and halftones - no, you can, of course, at the cost of long torment in the editor, get from the Bayer matrix something that looks like the truth ... The truth that the foveon simply takes and fixes.
I beg your pardon, I confused you with Valentin, who at the same time was commenting on Kaleinar-5n. What this article actually refers to is that the end user will not distinguish between the types of matrices, will not distinguish at all where the skin is of a normal color, and where with a terrible blue tint and he does not care about interpolation from the Bayer scheme, even the pros will not feel the difference. Of course, the photographer must know what his system is capable of, but this is already for specific or tasks of increased complexity. If it's not difficult, write what kind of camera you use for the foveon and the impression of it and what kind of photography you are doing, where correct color reproduction is so important.
Wonderful position! Photographers are idiots. They don’t understand anything, they don’t see anything. You better leave your primitive reasoning to yourself. And do not spread such nonsense. Those who do not see and do not understand do not exist here. Amazing snobbery and arrogance.
I note that all epithets come only from your message.
Thanks for the well-gathered and useful information, readers will be interested.
Add:
electrically lenses closely related Canon EF; individual enthusiasts re-mount the mount under the EF mount and work with canon optics. According to their reviews, at the same time, only stabilizers in the lenses do not work.
Two words about the display - do not try to judge by it whether you hit the sharpness. Don't rate it anyway - everything will seem a little blurry when scaling. Colors on the display also have nothing to do with life. In general, as on film - until you have developed it, you cannot reliably evaluate the result.
The 21-frame buffer pretty much eliminates problems with the write speed to the card, if you do not shoot in large series.
A set of semi-pro "goodies" such as mirror pre-lift and several exposure bracketing options.
If not for the low sensitivity, the camera could well be used as a report.
There are no lamer bells and whistles like HD video and LiveView. As, unfortunately, there is no interchangeable focusing screen (perhaps I miss it most of all). The viewfinder is quite comfortable and bright, but the screen is matte, without wedges and prisms - we have to remember the experience with Zenit-V. The LED indication in the viewfinder is not very convenient.
A dastardly joke can be played by a diopter corrector - if you try to set it according to the minimum thickness of the lines of the focusing frames or LED indicators, you will lead to a minus and you will think for a long time why you miss on the manual focus; despite the fact that the viewfinder seems to be quite sharp picture. It is better to set it iteratively, from a tripod, on a well-lit newspaper, adjusting focus and correction in turn.
More about batteries: Sigma BP-21 (for SD14, SD15) = Pentax D-LI50 (for K10D, K20D) = Minolta NP-400 (for Dimage A1 & A2, Dynax 5D, 7D).
The buffer, of course, pleases. LiveView with the ability to zoom in any selected area when working with a tripod and manual optics is a great thing, this is not a gadget, but a useful thing. Thanks again for the clarification on Sigma.
Strongly disagree with LiveView. LiveView, IMHO, is a way to neutralize the last advantages of a DSLR over APS-C mirrorless cameras. Sighting with a matrix - heating - unnecessary noise. I’m here, a sinful thing, I’m thinking of trying to add the Peltier element to some (for a start - in which one is not a pity) camera, to cool the matrix - and you mean LiveView ... To focus, you need a correct focusing screen - by the way, for cameras more massive than sigma, katsay great screens makes. Tinker once, change - and enjoy life without any LiveView. I'm thinking, over time, to buy the closest katsay and "finish" it for sigma. You just need to understand which one will be the closest. By the way, if there is information about the sizes of sigma and various other focusing screens, I would be very grateful.
It would be interesting if someone tested this very heating and its influence on the result of the picture under normal conditions - for example, sunny weather, etc. If LiveView really heated the matrix so much that the result would noticeably deteriorate at ISO 100, then there would be a lot of controversy. Nobody says that you need to shoot with LiveView - I myself am against it, but as an additional functionality, it's a nice thing, a plus is the vision of the finished result, which will not be affected by poorly aligned optics or a camera. You also forget about other types of filming, for example - a reportage or the same wedding, in which sometimes you need to shoot with the camera up, or they are much more frustrated, and LiveView is excellent for composing a frame, given that there will be up to 20 such frames per day of shooting. heating is out of the question, but the saved moments will be forever imprinted in the memory of the photographer and the customer.
From personal experience, when using LiveView for 2-3 shots a day, to ensure the most accurate and fast aiming and subsequent shooting without LiveView at low ISOs, the difference is less than many expect, therefore, do not bother with heating and refuse excellent technologies and achieve the desired The result is faster, better and without additional accessories.
In this regard, I like Nikon D700, Nikon D300, in which the video option was cut out, but LiveView was left - this is the right move towards the pros.
As for the screens, many ask, so far I can not help, I just have not delved into this topic yet.
Well, when shooting overhead, as a rule, focusing is extremely inconvenient. And if I suddenly go to shoot a wedding, I'll leave the manual optics at home. And with autofocus, catching a frame with your hands without looking through the viewfinder is a simple science that must be updated and refined for each new camera / lens.
And then, if you do not chase after the absence of this "extra" noise, why bother with a DSLR? For a sense of your own greatness? It is unlikely that you suffer from this, as I do. How is a LiveView DSLR different from an APS-C interchangeable-lens mirrorless? Nothing. Absolutely. In addition, of course, you can turn off this mode and return to normal operation.
Hmm, what do we have there for the inexpensive pentax with LiveView? Pentax K20D? For a long time I thought about taking it used as a second system - and not so expensive if I kill it during experiments with Peltier. Do not expect results quickly - I’ll hardly get it in the next two or three months. But when I get there, you will have information about the effect of temperature and LiveView. IMHO, for the possibility of night shooting with digital like on film, without fear of noise from the heating of the matrix with very long exposures, you can quite pay yourself the need to carry a couple of spare batteries with you.
I would be glad to receive information. Still, please note that for two or three shots, heating will not play any role, and it does not take much time to compose or focus on focus. The liveView mode in DSLRs is convenient because there is an opportunity to zoom the selected area roughly 1 to 1, I don’t think that you know many point-and-shoot cameras with this capability, and also few point-and-shoot cameras will allow you to focus manually. Here you need to pay attention to the camera-lens bundle. This is very convenient - we chose an area, for example, by the eyes, enlarged the eyes to the size of the display, twisted the focuser, released the shutter with 100% certainty of correct focus. At ISO 100, there is nothing to think about looking for a difference for this kind of shooting. And APS-C mirrorless cameras do not have the ability to work through a mirror. because Liveview DSLR includes a regular DSLR and functionality from without a mirror APS-C.
Regarding night shooting, or shooting in difficult conditions, I made a reservation right away - that for normal conditions there is no difference, and cooling the matrix for long exposures does not apply to Live View.
P.S. at an unhurried wedding, you can play with the manual perfectly, but this is off topic :) Thanks again for the helpful comments.
advise, please, a camera up to 3000 thousand UAH. I broke my head, APS-C, 4/3, ISO, CMOS or CCD .. I really understand very little.
Fujifilm FinePix S1800
Samsung NX100 Kit
Nikon COOLPIX L120
Perhaps your suggestion)
I beg you, please help! Soon I expect the birth of a child, it is very necessary to quickly acquire.
The best option is APS-C, then 4 \ 3.
CMOS or CCD doesn't really matter.
Of the selected ones, I would take the Nikon COOLPIX L120 or Fujifilm FinePix S1800, they have a nice large zoom.
Samsung NX100 Kit costs more than 4000.
Guys, advise a good and inexpensive DSLR.
And what do you think is the best camera:
Canon EOS 1000D Kit
Canon EOS 1100D kit 18-55
Nikon D3000 Kit
Nikon D3100 Kit
Canon EOS 450D kit (18-55 mm)
These are sets: camera + lens. Depending on the set, it will be "good or bad" in the understanding of an ordinary person.
I would recommend Nikon D3100, then Canon EOS 1100D
Arkady! You are absolutely right. The types of media - these or those matrices (or films!) - are the tenth thing. The main thing is the artist. And you can shoot, as one of the classics said, and a tin can!
And you get a tin can? So show your photos to those who do not take pictures at all, but bites canned food. He was famous at the time when everything was born. Today, thousands and thousands of photographers shoot much better .. Another thing they stood at the origins and contributed. But the level is growing. Like science and sport all life. Watch the video after the war years, figure skating, gymnastics Olympic champions today in the group of beginners will determine. The same is in the photograph.
Guys, today I bought a Canon IXUS 220HS camera. I don’t know, I’m not very picky about the characteristics of cameras, but I still bought it on the advice of the sellers themselves. Actually, when I went to the store, the goal was to buy a Canon IXUS 130 (friends advised), it’s also cheaper by $ 60. But, for some reason, sellers more praised the Canon IXUS 220HS. So I bought it. What do you say, was not mistaken in the choice? And then something already seems to me that I did not overpay for anything.
not mistaken if this helps you to take better photos.
Arkady, thank you. But, something I did not understand your answer, what does “if” mean. clarify please
The question was “were you the wrong choice?” This question is not quite specific and does not have an unambiguous answer. By “if” I meant the moral satisfaction of choosing a camera. If you are satisfied, then the choice is correct, if you are not happy, the choice is not correct. Please note that this question is quite general and you should not expect an intelligible answer to it. You can dig up the forums, in the end there will be pros and cons and everything will ultimately come down to the personal moral preferences of one model or another.
OK thanks. Of course, I wanted to hear more about the model that I chose, all the same, I thought people here are professionals, I was probably mistaken. I will try to find out about someone who will still answer me if I made the right choice. And how can I be satisfied or not if I don't know the right choice or not. In short ... I'm on the wrong site. Please excuse me for asking the wrong address for advice. Thanks.
Please note that the article is dedicated to CCD VS CMOS and continue to make no mistake. Professionals take photos, photo docs mess with their technology.
Well, they would immediately say that you don’t understand anything in cameras, why you had to write a lot of eloquent words. Bye.
I don’t understand anything in cameras, I apologize. I hope my apology will bring you moral satisfaction. Read the rest on specialized forums.
I ask for your advice! I am faced with the choice of Sony A390L or Sony A290. The seller claims that the A290 with a CCD matrix, and the A390L (with Live View function) with an APS-C matrix. And from your correspondence, I realized that there are no SLR cameras with APS-C. Does this mean that the seller is cheating? And which model would you lean on? Thank you in advance!
Both Sony A390L and A290 cameras have APS-C sensor, and the type of matrix for each CCD. A huge number of digital SLR cameras are APS-C cameras. I would take the A390L due to the explicitness of the LiveView mode. If the answer is simpler about - then they have the same matrices.
Dear men! I need your advice. I can not decide on a camera for my overly active life. Before that, since 2007 I had a Canon IXUS 70, but now I want something more. I tried to make friends with a reflex camera (Canon EOS 1100D Kit), I realized that I was not ready for all these lens changes and so on. Dwelled on these models:
Fujifilm FinePix HS20EXR
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ100
Canon PowerShot SX30 IS
Please tell me which one is "better"?
Size matters if it is the size of the camera sensor. Everything suggested is with a 1 / 2,3 inch sensor. I would look at the models, if not with APS-C, then with 1 / 1,7, at least. If you don’t chase the superzoom (a “soap dish” with a tripod is a funny combination; how can you do without a tripod with an EGF 800 mm ?!), that is, for example, Canon S90 - S95 - S100. A pocket camera with a more or less "intelligible" pattern and a fast lens at the wide end. The S90 shot from a hand at a wide angle with a shutter speed of up to a second - the stabilizer works very well. There is Canon G11 - less aperture, but overall the lens is better. Now the Canon G1 is on its way - it is no longer quite a pocket toy that can compete with the “bottom” mirror “whales”. There was also - and probably the closest thing to your “niche” - the Sony DSC-R1, a 10-megapixel APS-C camera with a permanent bright 1x zoom. Alas, it can only be found used; but in your case, I highly recommend it. There is the Sigma DP-XNUMX - a pocket-sized “landscape” camera, a fixed prime lens and Foveon's stunning APS-C color rendering.
Hello, please help me make a choice. Torn between:
Nikon D90 kit AF-S DX 18-105 VR f / 3.5-5.6t
Nikon D3100 kit AF-S DX 18-55 VR
Nikon D5100 kit 18-105mm VR
The price difference is not very significant for me, but I do not really want to overpay))
Is there really a big difference between the AF-S DX 18-105 VR and the AF-S DX 18-55 VR. I am not a professional, but I want to learn, and I don’t want to give a lot of money for anything. At the moment I use Nikon D50 Kit AF-S DX 18-55G, due to its age it sometimes starts to slow down, I want something new ...
And is there a significant alternative to Canon? Anyone I ask, everyone is for Nikon ...
Thank you very much for the answer…
I see that you already have experience using a DSLR, therefore I recommend taking the Nikon D90 kit AF-S DX 18-105 VR f / 3.5-5.6, if you do not like it, then the Nikon D5100 kit 18-105mm VR. The difference in 18-55 and 18-105 is significant. To give a more detailed answer, you need to describe the tasks for which you are buying a camera (video, type of photo, lens exposure, etc.). Canon also has alternatives.
Thank you very much, the most interesting is that it was in this sequence that I considered these models. Let's just say, a beginner photographer (although I have been trying to photograph for 4 years)) I mainly photograph my daughter, family staged photos, portraits. There are no lenses, just a whale one. Here are examples of my "works":
http://s018.radikal.ru/i508/1201/64/516443157ec9.jpg
http://i069.radikal.ru/1201/7f/3d497ef781e6.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i438/1201/22/f2c85cd79012.jpg
Such troubles often happen in the room, I can’t focus:
http://s016.radikal.ru/i336/1201/32/3881209fae48.jpg
I think 18-105 will be just right. Here An example of my photos when I was still shooting on D90 and 18-105.
Very, very beautiful, I probably won't succeed ...
It turns out, do not worry.
There is a choice between cameras Nikon P300 (CMOS) and Canon S95 (CCD, the difference in money is 70 bucks.
And what's the difference in the photos?
Is it worth overpaying?
Or it may look more interesting (but in this pricing policy)
Both cameras are good, the difference in photographs, even with such cameras, will be difficult to feel in practice. Personally, my opinion is that it is not worth overpaying. And if you overpay, then take something seriously.
I use, among other things, the Canon S90, from which the 95th differs minimally. Good camera for everyday wear; but already looking at the Fuji X10. It is, of course, more expensive, but it turned out to be a really interesting camera. So far, I haven’t agreed with my toad. Here I will give such a girlfriend, look at the result and I will think. )))
And why does nick have all the professional cameras with a CMOS matrix?
http://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/products/product_summary_list.page?sParamValueLbl=Digital%20Cameras&sParam1ValueLbl=SLR&sSubnav2ParamLbl=Professional&ParamValue=Digital%20Cameras&Subnav1Param=SLR&Subnav2Param=Professional&Subnav3Param=0&RunQuery=l3&ID=0
Most likely this is due to the ability to quickly read the signal, which allows you to shoot video, work in Live View mode, increases the rate of fire and reduces power consumption - all this has nothing to do with the picture at low ISO, therefore, most likely, just a tribute to the market.
You take a picture of the canon 100Hs with a Cmos matrix and then any SSD, for example I have a canon s95 and you will see the difference in full cmos this is a 100% shit
Yes, it's rather strange that the new Canon EOS-1D X came out with a CMOS sensor again. On soap dishes a huge share for the quality of the picture is "eaten" by the software cheat of the finished image.
Xt for the test, do a test on the portraits, everything will be visible there, Nikon’s kmop skinton has complete shit
no one doubts that Nikon's skinton sucks, why else do the test?
Good afternoon. There are 2 new items Nikon Coolpix L810 and P510. Tell me. which one is better to take ... Thank you.
Good day. Please help me determine the camera. I'm not a pro. Need a fotik for dragging for every day. Compactness and versatility are desirable, and at the same time, if necessary, I could take a decent picture in poor lighting conditions. Price retreats to the 2nd plan. Since Soviet times, I used to configure everything with my hands. I looked closely at the models:
Olympus XZ-1
Canon PowerShot G1 X (unfortunately not yet available)
For a month I drove Sony NEX-5 I consider myself to be overall due to the lens.
Thank you for the competent answer.
Canon PowerShot G1 X will be just right.