According provided by lens Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) huge thanks to the store www.fotika.com.uawhere you can find a huge number of different used photographic equipment, including this model.
Review of Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan)
All Nikon 50-58 / 1.4 / 1.2 autofocus lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (first version, MK I) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1991
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (second version, MK II, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was only available in Japan from 1991 to 1995
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 1995 to this day. There are two subversions that are no different.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4G AF-S Nikkor SWM (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as 'G' version) - the lens is only available in China from 2008 to this day.
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical (version better known as'58/1.4') - the lens is only available in Japan from 2013 to this day.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58mm 1: 0.95 S Noct - The lens is available from 2019 to this day. Premium Lens for Mirrorless Cameras Nikon Z... It does not have automatic focus, but has a record aperture. Complex optical design with 17 elements in 10 groups, with 4 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 / 1.2 S - The lens has been produced from 2020 to the present day. Professional S-line lens for mirrorless cameras Nikon Z... Complex optical design with 17 elements in 15 groups, with 2 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements
Fast standard lens, such as Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D - very well suited for working in low light, makes it easy to control depth of field, on Nikon DX cameras (and on Nikon FX) it is often used as portrait lens. It’s convenient with him take off, since due to the large aperture you can work with shorter shutter speeds. It is often said that the Nikon 50 / 1.4D (or a similar lens) is the lens that every photographer should have, his role in photo life is sometimes simply invaluable.
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) when focusing on infinity
At the moment Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D is considered slightly outdated, and passing the baton of aperture fifty kopecks to its brother - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM.
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) when focusing on MDF
The lens has fast auto focus. The instance that I visited on the review has a slight back focus when used on my cameras Nikon D700 и D80 (focuses a little farther than the subject). There is no focus mode switch on the lens body; to put the lens in manual focus mode, switch the camera to manual focus mode using the switch located near the camera mount. The focus ring is rubberized, comfortable enough and rotates 135 degrees. During focusing, the front lens does not rotate, and the trunk of the lens travels forward. During auto focus, the focus ring rotates and cannot be touched.
The lens has a window with a focus distance scale in meters and feet. The minimum focusing distance is 45 cm, and the maximum magnification ratio is 1: 6.8. The depth of field scale is indicated for the values of F / 11 and F / 16, there is also an infrared shift mark.
The lens uses small filters with a diameter of 52 mm, like a whale Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor... The lens weighs about 260 grams and feels like a solid, well-made product in the hands. On the side of the metal mount there is a black screw that serves as a mark for attaching the lens to the camera. As an option, you can purchase a Nikon HR-2 rubber hood, which is screwed into the thread of the front light filter.
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan)
Auto focus with Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D lens available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing. An exact and complete list of Nikon CZKs that support auto focus with 'AF' lenses can be found in the 'Auto focus on Nikon cameras'. During auto focus, the camera and lens are quite noisy.
The lens has a manual aperture ring. To be able to control the value aperture from camera or for automatic installation aperture on modern central control valves, you need to turn the control ring to F / 16 and fix it with a special lever, which is located to the right of the marks aperture. If this is not done, then on a number of cameras, the display will display an error - 'fEE' (ring is not installed aperture) Some cameras having diaphragm rheostatallow you to control the aperture using the ring aperturebut only in metering modes exposure 'M' and 'A'. You can read more about this issue in the section on Non-G Lenses. Ring aperture rotates with clicks, the values F / 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16 are plotted on it, it is impossible to establish an intermediate value between pairs of numbers.
The lens diaphragm consists of 7 non-rounded petals and with it you can easily get 14 ray stars from strong (hard) light sources. On an open aperture at the edges of the image, the luminous points in the defocus zone turn into limonchiki (see an example) On covered diaphragms, it is easy to obtain nuts in the blur zone (see an example).
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan), rear view
Nikon has darkness and darkness autofocus fifty dollars and even more manual fifty dollars, and some manual options are still produced, for example - Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.2 AI-S.
Enlightenment and aperture blades Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan)
Personal impressions:
In fact, after a long use of the lens Nikon 50mm1: 1.8D AF Nikkor not really felt the addition of aperture to the floor of the foot (the difference between F / 1.4 and F / 1.8). Of course, F / 1.4 is better than 1.8, but I still tend to believe that you should not overpay if shooting does not require work with low light.
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) and Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
At F / 1.4, the lens is not as sharp as we would like it to be, but it is noticeably chromate. Sharpness in the center of the frame becomes very good at F / 2.0, and at the edges of the frame somewhere at F / 4-5.6. In general, there is nothing unusual in the image quality of the standard fifty kopeck piece. Personally, I didn't like a little that the lens slightly yellows, which can be seen even in the optical viewfinder, perhaps I got such a copy.
Nikon has not updated the optical design of this lens, consisting of 7 elements in 6 groups, for a very long period. This scheme was first implemented in the Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4 (AI) lens back in 1977 and was replaced by a new one, consisting of 8 elements in 7 groups, in the model Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM already in 2008. Apparently, the thirty-year-old production of lenses on such an optical scheme has some serious reasons, of which I personally single out a rather pleasant 'drawing' of the lens.
Also, Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) is one of Nikon's fastest autofocus lenses, as Nikon doesn’t make anything “stronger” for DSLR cameras than f / 1.4. Plus, this kid is the cheapest autofocus lens with F / 1.4 :).
On Nikon DX cameras EGF lens is 75mm.
Here link to the archive with the originals - 562 MB, 31 photos in .NEF format (RAW) from cameras Nikon D700 (FX) and Nikon D80 (DX).
Prices
Real prices for the lens in popular online stores can look at this link, or in the following price block:
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Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D on the ZK
Results:
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D (made in Japan) is an excellent and very successful fast lens, it will help a novice photographer to understand and learn how to work with depth of field, and a professional to take wonderful photos :).
You can read more information about other autofocus fifty dollars here.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Beautiful girls ... :) But glass is nothing too ... Although not impressive at all ...
I was not impressed after 1.8, although many praise it. The only thing in Photoshop then from the frames taken at 1.4, you can sculpt a lot of wonderful sketches.
tell me whether it’s worth taking 50 with aperture of 1,4 if I have an amateur camera D5100. or can you easily get by at aperture 1,8?
Is it true that auto-focus does not work on amateur cameras?
Does it not work on both of these lenses or only 1,4?
thank you in advance!
There are two 50mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor lenses (from this review) and the other 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor. The second will automatically focus on your Nikon D5100, and the first will not be able to focus automatically.
Similarly, there are two 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor and 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor lenses. The first one will not focus automatically on your camera, and the second one will.
The question of whether you need 1.4 or 1.8 is up to you.
On the D90, is this lens autofocus or not?
Yes, on the D90 this lens will have the ability to automatically focus. More details about compatibility in my article Nikon Lens Difference
please tell me, is it also 1.8, and 1.4 is new - made in china?
Older versions before 2000 are made in Japan, newer ones in China.
Good afternoon.
I had the opportunity to use this lens on my Nikon D50.
Impressions are the most positive. Sharp shots are already taken with f / 1.8. 1,4 must be able to use. on my nikon the focus is lightning fast. the difference with the whale 18-55 is striking. pluses also include its value. the portraits are amazing. If desired, you can use it as a kit. In addition, the lens is light and compact.
The conclusion is: take the opportunity and enjoy.
good afternoon please tell me
Do I have a D90 camera, which means that with a 50mm 1.4d lens it will focus automatically
, it makes sense to overpay for 1.4g. if yes - what are the differences.
It will focus automatically. The differences are described here. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/04/obzor-nikon-af-s-50mm-f-1-4-g/ It’s not worth overpaying.
And if I have a Nikon D7000.?
After reading on the Internet I became aware that
this lens will give too soft
soft effect (On the Nikon D7000, most likely due to the number of pixels and the fact that the lens does not allow the matrix). In addition, this lens is weak,
as for me, keeps side light and nuts in the zone
blur, lack of a hood, color rendition (for an amateur).
Also do not like it, low contrast.
All these shortcomings have been fixed in Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4G
What can you advise.? Tired of the opinion of “members of the forum”.
I want to hear the opinion of a professional. Thanks.
1.4G will be better, but in 1.4D the focus is faster and the color reproduction is more natural.
IS THIS BETTER MONEY DIFFERENT?
It is up to you to decide.
There is simply no way to test them (((
Without personal experience, there is nothing to talk about, as the lenses are slightly different. Personally, I use 1.4G and have no regrets.
I want to buy a d7000 and 1,4d is included, if you take the body and 1,4g it turns out to be 2t more expensive. So I think, but is it worth it?
I take d7000 in exchange for 5100, (I did not like the size for 5100 first of all.) I don’t want to take with a whale but there is no money for a serious zoom. so I want to take with a fix
1.4d is enough to reveal the capabilities of the matrix
On the diaphragms F5.6-F8.0 head enough.
Nikon 50MM F1.4D or Nikon AF 50mm f / 1.8D
In the section on https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/04/obzor-nikon-af-s-50mm-f-1-4-g/ there are conclusions about all 4 poltininka. If you choose between Nikon 50MM F1.4D or Nikon AF 50mm f / 1.8D, then definitely 1.4.
Hello!
Tell me please. I can’t decide.
The difference between 50mm 1,8g and 50mm 1,4d is about $ 60-80.
Is it worth it to overpay for 50mm 1,4d? Camera Nikon D90.
As far as I understand, then at 1,8 Nikon 50mm 1,4d will give a clearer picture than 50mm 1,8g?
Yes, it will be a little better. I would take 1.8G because optical circuit.
Thank you, I am also more inclined to 1,8g also because of the source. As far as I know, non-motorized adjustments are not amenable to the service center. And motor ones, in addition to the software in sc, also support adjustment by some carcasses, like the Nikon D7000.
Cameras of the type D7000, D300 support alignment with any lens, since the correction is made by the camera, not the lens.
I often feel about the model of the Mekbek asset / front focus. What is the truth? May the d90 camera і в ній меміє міжливості кокування autofocus without a physical handicap that I don’t know how to buy such an asset.
Well, not often, but there are cases. Unfortunately, I dare say that the back-front focus is often to blame for the lens-camera bundle itself.
Good afternoon, Arkady!
How is this glass different from the old manual Nikkor 50mm F / 1.4 Lens
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Nikkor-50mm-F-1-4-Lens-Factory-AI-Mount-Converted-/300755940142?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item460673732e
Understandable, except for manual work. Exactly optical x-ki, drawing, enlightenment, etc. I'm not a specialist in Nikon optics. I think how worthy he is as a manual fifty kopeck piece for a canon-sony, etc.? Canon threw its users onto the old FD optics. Nikkors were famous for their sharpness.
The optical circuits are almost the same, I can not say about the fundamental difference between the ai-s and d versions. Often on the Kenon put Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-S Nikkor MF https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/01/review-nikon-50mm-f1-2-ai-s/
those. my version is the D version?
What will it be correctly called then, Nikkor 50mm F / 1.4 Lens, D?
No, your version will be correctly called Nikon Nikkor 50mm F / 1.4 Pre-AI, AI Converted.
>> In general, with a Nikon 50mm f / 1.4 AF-D NIKKOR and the skills to zoom with the lower limbs, you can get great shots of any subject and direction.
Or maybe still zoom with the upper limbs?
Kicking somehow doesn’t work out very well;)
If desired, the best option is to zoom your head :)
For some reason, I have decent XA at the aperture of 2.2 ... Can you tell me if you got a defective lens? Although there are normal pictures ...
Here are the examples of HA (Nikon D7000 camera)
http://album.foto.ru/photos/107510/
In the unsharp zone, it is not HA that appears, but spherical aberrations (also called freezing), everything in front of the sharpness zone is colored purple (especially at transitions), and everything beyond the sharpness zone is painted green. They are very similar to HA, but only appear in the out of focus zone.
But in the pictures I took (examples on the link), a purple halo appears on sharp objects as well (frames are not overexposed). And not always on a white background, but, for example, on a blue one. But in almost all cases, these are contrasting areas.
I have been using this technique for a week and now the question arose before me: are such situations normal for this lens (the seller suggests moving up and replacing with another one the same, but is there any sense in this).
Do you think this is the norm for the specified lens (in the examples)?
AT 2.0 HA should not be present, or be present to a very small extent. In the above examples, you have halos in the Blur zone and this is normal, since this is spherochromatism.
Thank you for specific, unambiguous and objective explanations. There are many such “experts” among photographers that it is possible to compose forty-volume compositions from their advice, but there is no sense ... and you - specifically, and I will do it.
Can XA be checked in contrast pictures and with a flash, or preferably in sunlight?
I do tests in the sunlight, it is better to focus on liveviews.
Hello, Arkady.
Please tell me, I don't understand this term with crooked cameras a little. I have a D7000, if you put Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4D AF on it, will it be equal to 75mm? I want to choose a good lens for portraits. Or if I take Nikkor 85mm f / 1.4D AF, is it 124? isn't it too much ... And still, is it better to take a G AF-S lens, or will there be no difference with D AF for my D7000? thanks for the answer
EGF will be equal to 75mm, in more detail in the section about crop factor.
The EGF for Nikkor 85mm f / 1.4D AF will be 127.5mm, in more detail in the section about crop factor. In chapter https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/01/obzor-nikon-af-nikkor-85-mm-f-1-8d/ there are examples of shots, including portrait ones, on an 85mm lens and cropped Nikon D90, D40, D80 cameras with the same crop factor as your Nikon D7000.
The difference between the Nikon 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor and the Nikon 50mm f / 1.4D AF NIKKOR lies not only in the focusing method, but also in various optical schemes, different bokeh patterns. A brief comparison of all fifty dollars can be found at the end of the section on https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/04/obzor-nikon-af-s-50mm-f-1-4-g/. I recommend the Nikon 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor as a portrait portrait.
Good day. As someone who knows and has tested these lenses, please tell me whether it is worth buying the Nikon 50mm f / 1.4 AF-D in exchange for the Zenitar-M 50mm F1.7 / 50 in pursuit of ease of use on the NIKON D7000. Thanks.
If you need convenience, then of course, an autofocus lens can help with this.
Hello. Please advise. Nikon 5100. Lens set: 28 / 1,8G + 50 / 1,4G + 105 / 2,8G micro VR. With the prospect of switching to FF. Landscape, portrait, subject, macro-flat. What Focus is missing or replaced, but not more expensive. Regards. Happy New Year. Thank you.
I just can’t know what kind of focal point you are missing.
I selected lenses based on your reviews. I wanted to hear your opinion on the issue of overlapping the range of focal lengths and the advisability of acquiring fast aperture, trusting in your experience. If the question is very extensive, sorry. Thank you.
The question is not to buy more, but whether you have enough of the above lenses.
I played too much. I got carried away by reading reviews, forums, etc. Just like everyone wanted something big and light "type" 15-400 / 1,0 and for the hryvnia. I perfectly understand that the answer to my question and the recipe is one-to-shoot, shoot, shoot ... I took the first picture in 1966, but I never shot it professionally.
enter "in the topic. Happy New Year. Best regards.
Arkady, help please ... I really want a lens with good blur, for both portraits and full-length photos ... I read many forums and sites, came across so-called "fixes" .. now I can not decide which one is right for me, for my goals ...
I have a Nikon D7000.
I would like the blur as close as possible to this ... http://cs407725.userapi.com/v407725103/7201/ophqcixXiXI.jpg
You need to look at lenses not lower than 85 1.8, for example 85mm 1.8G, 85mm 1.8D, 85mm 1.4D, 85mm 1.4G, 105mm 2.8, 135mm 2.8 or zooms like 80-200mm
Good day, I took one for the D300. only positive impressions, though often instead of 1.4 it shows 1.6. I tried to shoot in the studio - it doesn't fit without a hood. The question is: do you need a hood for this lens or not (sold separately)?
Sold separately, can be purchased.
I immediately have a question of such a plan, if it is a D series, then the diaphragm will be controlled only on the lens or can this be done with a “carcass” wheel?
It will be controlled from the camera if it is fixed at the minimum value, for more details here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/03/nikon-lenses/
Hello Arkady, Please advise, I choose between this lens and Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G for d90, tell me which picture will be better, color rendition, which one to give preference ..? Thank you!
I will add, at aperture of 1,8 they have a very different picture?