Lens Tair 3, which is described in this review, was taken from a photo gun, it contains identification data: Tair-3-Phs 4.5 / 300 N3783 Lens made in USSR. As soon as the lens fell into my hands, once again I felt all the “power” of Soviet optics, because the lens weighs more than a kilogram.
Review Tair-3 300mm F4.5
The first thing that catches your eye is the tremendous front lens with a diameter of 72 mm, and indeed - the general view of the lens - it is all painted with white paint, instead of the usual black. Tair-3 is made in the style of those times - no plastic (except for the front and back cover), only metal and glass.
TTH:
Focal length: 300 mm
Resolution according to technical specifications (center / region): 36/30 lines / mm
Diaphragm: F4.5 to F22, 16 petals
The weight: 1400gram
Year: exact information is not available, but from about 1950 to 2005
Front Lens Diameter: 72mm
Landing thread: interchangeable shanks, usually a tail with M42 thread
History: In 1958, at the Brussels World Exhibition, the lens received the Grand Prix award. It was produced in different versions, with a different design of the case and with different enlightenment. Additionally you can see review and video review MC TAIR-3S 4,5 / 300 in a black frame и TAIR-3-FS 4,5 / 300 in a black frame. Also, the lens has a medium format brother Tair-33 4.5/300.
Features of my model - since the lens was removed from a photographic gun, the design of its controls is quite interesting. Firstly, the diaphragm is set using a cocking mechanism - this means that the diaphragm is fully opened (by maximizing the ring with a red arrow), the desired value is set, and then it is lowered to the desired value using the 'trigger' installed from below lens. There is a feeling of a real camera gun. Trigger trigger it works very easily, just press the mechanism a little, after which the aperture closes to the desired value, this is done in order to focus on the fully open aperture, and take a picture at the desired value to ensure the desired depth of field and correct exposure.
I worked with several Tair-3 lenses, and all of them did not have an instantaneous aperture release, but smooth, which took about one second, which is not good. Perhaps the mechanism has simply worn out during operation.
Aperture lens Tair 3
Secondly, it is focus method. It is different from all the lenses I've worked with. At the end of the tube along which the lens unit with front lenses travels, below is a metal focus control flywheel. The disk rotates 270 degrees in the plane perpendicular to the hyperfocal plane of the lens. On the focusing disk there are designations for the limits of focusing from 3 meters to 80 meters and infinity.
Focus Flywheel Tair 3
How did I use it with a modern digital SLR camera?
The lens can use interchangeable shanks, although there is no 'A' in its name. On Nikon cameras I used MC TAIR-3S 4,5 / 300 with interchangeable shank KP-A / Nor using the adapter ring M42-Nikon (with loss of focus to infinity).
You can find out how to use the Tair-3 lens on Canon in my article Old Canon Lenses. When used with other systems, corresponding adapters are also available.
It should also be borne in mind that the lens is quite heavy and, if handled carelessly, it may well tear out the camera mount. On my Nikon D90 the lens and the camera feel fine, I even held the camera itself, while not holding the lens with my left hand, but I repeat - this is at your own peril and risk.
Very use of a tripod is advisable - firstly, to install a lens on it, and secondly, hand shake at 300mm can blur the picture.
An example of focusing and using Tair 3 FS
Features worth paying attention to:
- Focal length in 300mm. It's real fixed telephoto, which is rarely seen in our time. Usually now they make zoom televisions like 55-300, 70-300, 80-400 and the like. On the cropped matrix of mine Nikon D90 (Yes, and any cropped camera) we get the same viewing angle as 450mm for a full-frame sensor (i.e. 35mm film). And 450mm at aperture ratio in F4.5 is already the dream of many amateur photographers.
- Aperture F4.5 - an excellent indicator. Current televisions mainly use F5.6. The most interesting thing is that the lens is “working” already with a maximum aperture.
- Weight - The lens, as already mentioned, is quite heavy. This is a kind of 'Soviet image stabilizer'. The heavy weight helps to increase the inertia of the lens and reduce shake of hands or camera on a tripod. But, also, after working with such a technique, hands fall off within an hour (verified by personal experience).
- Scheme - 3 lenses in 3 groups. In fact, you are very pleased when shooting with this kind of lens. Our scientists have shown themselves here to the maximum and created a lens of only 3 lenses (Ray is happy) During the transition of light at the intervals between glass-air and air-glass, a part of the flow is lost and different distortions are added, so the less of them, the better.
- The number of aperture blades 16 pieces. The diaphragm is perfectly round. Ideal for portraiture - no “nuts”. Anyway - such a large number of petals is very rare. The photographs show how much a round hole is obtained. True, the aperture blades are not blackened, this adds distortion in counter and side light.
- Possibility of installation on a full-frame camera. It is a pity there is no way to test on Nikon Full Frame DLSR APS cameras.
- Excellent picture quality.
General appearance of my tair 3 fs in my hand
About quality Images:
A completely open aperture produces a sharp picture. That is, the lens is quite high quality. With the naked eye, quite strong HA on the open diaphragm. I do not observe distortion. The color rendition is littered in the direction of green colors, it is treated by setting the correct BB... The picture is very flexible, the bokeh is excellent (as on me, everyone has different tastes). The transition from the zone of sharpness to the zone of unsharpness is very smooth, and not abrupt, as is usual with high-aperture lenses. Vignetting, in principle, should not be on the crop matrix. Also, the lens is very afraid of backlight and side light (in the examples there is one photo in backlight - the photo is covered with a kind of veil). Also, the picture has green outlines (aberrations) out of focus and purple outlines in front of the image.
Personal impressions:
there is no need to fear the weight of the Tair-3 lens, half an hour can be removed without a tripod, there are no problems with a tripod. My girlfriend shot Tair without any problems holding him in her arms, strong guys will be able to hold him all the more. Regarding the shooting - I really liked its sharpness, plasticity and its 300mm, the girl fell in love with this lens so much that it is possible to photograph distant objects without attracting attention. Below, actually the photo.
Refined Use of Tahir 3
Ниже приведены sample photosmade on this lens and camera Nikon D90. The photographs are imprinted shooting options with EXIF module.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Conclusions:
Tair-3-Phs 4.5 / 300 - big, heavy, interesting.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good day! Please tell me which adapter you need to buy for TAIR-3s so that you can use it with Canon5d mark2? And how to fix it on a tripod?
Thank you in advance!:)
Good afternoon! I also bought a suitcase with a FS in a complete set, although they put another Zenith-11 into the load, kicked it out, but I had to take everything for 1500r. By the way, the Zenith-11 then pleased me with a very clean Helios-44 (let it lie down to a heap, for a gift to someone). I arrived at the garage too late, put it on the samsung GX20 (the USSR optics get up on the pentax like a native). I climbed into the garage and banged at 2000 ISO through the haze of the track with the meat packing plant and went crazy. The glass is cool, of course, in skillful handles. I will definitely attach a monopod to it, redo the butt and take the birds to the dacha to take pictures. In general, FS - it was an unattainable dream in childhood, it seems 300r was worth! And dreams should always come true, so I bought it at the age of 40, relieved stress))). I'll post the photo later, when I have plenty to choose from.
In general, after a couple of months of intensive testing, I came to the conclusion that the contrast is rather weak. It is necessary to add +1 +2 in the camera settings. Although I usually take off other glasses even with -1. The point is not even the design of the lens, but the fact that, by their nature, televisions emphasize the aerial perspective (haze). So now you have to rummage through the menu every time.
I bought a tiara 3a, I can say to indulge, apparently because of age the focusing ring is very tight, it is not possible to use it from your hands in this regard - you cannot hold the camera in your hand. It is quite possible to get used to it on a tripod, I added contrast only for photos with side and backlight when developing from Rav. On the crop, to make a post portrait, you need to move about 30 meters away. All this is the opinion of an amateur with a crop, I have a Nikon 5100, so I put it through a PDA with a dandelion, and even on the tripod there were focus misses and blurring. In general, it's cool for that kind of money, I want to master it all the way. I would be grateful if you would advise the master in St. Petersburg to change the lubricant and it became easier to turn the focusing ring.
Where can I buy it in Ukraine?
In Nikolaev, on the market at the bus station, I saw several copies on sale ... but for myself I bought a Tair 3 A with a replaceable shank A for the M 42 thread and changed it to KP-A \ N I am very pleased with the sharpness. The mount to the tripod is just perfect. If you need help advice or are interested in other subjects ...
An extremely unpleasant boke ...
Hello, I have 82g. FS 12 with two zero lens Helios 44 and Tair. I want to try shooting them on the Nikon D 5000, tell me for this I need an adapter (for both) M 42 Nikon with a lens?
Tell me where to buy one with a lens? And they say the lens washes the image. But what to do? I need infinity.
Ivan
21.06.2013/05/30 at XNUMX:XNUMX Reply
as far as I know, a lensless adapter and a small screwdriver are enough for normal work with taira, I’m a gunner myself, but the lens fell into my hands with a downed infinity, the benefit on the network, unfortunately forgot the author, came across a simple and effective way to deepen the lens block - from the ring, which three screws are unscrewed near the front lens, after which by rotating the ring itself relative to the lens block (by hand) we catch infinity, after which we fix the ring with the unscrewed screws and enjoy life, good shots.
So you can catch infinity without a lens, which I did)
Hello. I got this lens, cured it of losing infinity. But I ran into the problem of horizontal orientation of the system (camera + lens) on a tripod. I can’t screw the lens through the adapter so that the focusing handwheel and tripod socket are strictly below. Maybe there is some secret? Or is my adapter too Chinese?
Remove the screws from the interchangeable shank and tighten it so that the lens with the tripod socket is towards the bottom.
Hello. Tell us about infinity. What meters does it start from?
Yesterday my copy of the iron box arrived, bought for the occasion ... This is a BOMB in the literal sense - sharp on an open aperture, iron, moderately heavy! I am very pleased with the appearance - on the D200 I got up like a native through the KP-A \ N adapter. I would like to suggest an idea from the category of “cunning need for inventions” - I picked up a temporary cover for the front lens, just don’t laugh. This is a red plastic lid from children's canned meat "Krokha" (sold in all large markets in Ukraine), closes normally (at least until a normal lid is purchased).
I installed the Nikon D3100 on a Tair-3 PhS photo sniper. I use it with the handle and butt from the kit. The mechanical shutter drive was converted to electric using the MC-DC2 and a micro-button. I adjusted the jump so that the diaphragm would immediately work and then the shutter. There is nothing complicated in the alteration, only in MC-DC 2 you need to output two wires to the micro-button separately from the contacts. look for a button with three outputs. Anyone interested can unsubscribe.
the lodgment would also adjust the length of the butt, there would be no price, but so - I changed this one, first for canon, then for pentax (I bought myself a k5-2), but the trouble is this - of the three lodgements, only the shortest one turned out to be more or less convenient the butt, and even that is not the most convenient - I have to pull the neck forward, I have long been going to shorten it by another couple of cm, but my hands don’t reach something, so the digitized lodgment lies somewhere
about "digitizing": I have only one wire sticking out of the cradle - a wire with a connector, to make it beautiful, I unpacked the headphone extension cord for this purpose, about digitizing: I unscrewed the "trigger" pin, and in its place I glued a large mikrik from radio goods, on the moving part of the trigger - a magnet, on the stationary part - a reed switch, of course, there is not enough space inside, but a reed switch, a magnet, a button and a couple of wires fit there quite freely)
Hey. I would be grateful if I would expand the scheme of my "know-how". It is possible in sketches)
Hello Nikolai. And where do you live? I wanted to ask for help about the lens.
Owners, respond))) Who can tell me - how is he doing with chromatism and vignetting? Who tested it on the stars?
Ps I am engaged in astrophotography, and I want to say that Jupiter 37A has strong chromaticity on the stars, which I did not even suspect before buying.
Good people, guard. I put an adapter on Nikon D-3100, connected Tair-3 - FS - and it writes to me ... The lens is not attached. Maybe a screwdriver where to pick? Who will respond kindly, at the on-off level please. Raw me.
Set the camera to M mode, with non-chip lenses in M mode only, use this device or set Dandelion
Thank you very much. What is ... a dandelion? Sorry.
=) On this site there is an article about Lushnikov dandelion, read.
Oooh, how difficult it is ... fuck! Thanks !
Sery Zone's answer. At one time, he compared his Jupiter 37 and Tair 3PhS regarding chromatism. On Jupiter 37, chromatism is noticeable. There is practically no chromatism on Tair 3PhS. True, my Tair is an export version and produced in the early 70s.
I think that Russians have the power of a camera lens manufacturer in the world, people are always hunting for camera lens quality photographers in Russia, but the prices are reasonable.
Thank you friend! It’s always nice to hear good things about your country, especially when it’s said not by news anchors on the first channel, but ordinary foreigners.
This lens made in Ukraine.
Arkady, I'm completely confused ... You write that the angle of view for FF, in contrast to the crop factor 1.5, will be the same as for a 450mm lens, but this 300mm lens was originally made for FF !! On the crop, the angle will be due to trimming the edges of the frame, which will correspond to the EGF 450mm specifically for the crop, in turn, in order to reach this “cropped” angle on the FF, a PHYSICAL 675mm lens will be needed. Of course, I understand that in order to reach an angle of 50mm on the FF, you need to set 35mm on the crop, but here are physical wheels. Or I'm wrong? The fact is that in my city there was an advertisement for the sale of a photographic gun with this lens. I have a pentax crop 1.5, I wondered whether to take it ... It is interesting, but I'm afraid whether it will be so practical. Although sometimes Jupiter21m does not “reach” some successful shots from the series of “wild fauna”)
briefly: FF with a lens of 450 and 1.5 crop with a lens of 300, from the same distance, the bear will be made in the picture of the same size
Thanks, understood)
I looked through the viewfinders of “Zenith 122” with installed telear n 200 / 3.5 and pentax k20d with installed Jupiter 37a 135 / 3.5, everything is the same. But how nice it is to look through the FF viewfinder)
But in the Z-122, the viewfinder shows 67% of the frame!
Well, I still have the zenith of e, but it’s precisely because of the trapezoidal mirror that a lot is not visible, and 122 seemed quite. imagine 6x6)
I bought the same tair 3fs and it seemed to me that it is more convenient to focus constructively from the hands than to tair 3a. Got another ms converter k1, boom "shoot" the animals.
Photo from Tair 3C + two K-1 converters, Nikon D80 camera. Unfortunately, since the converters have an M42 thread, I had to attach a corresponding shank to the lens and eventually lose infinity, just a little bit missing ... that is, the whole structure looks like this - a lens with an M42 shank, two K1 converters, an M42 adapter - Nikon, the camera ... it was all on a tripod with the shutter lag on, on a remote release, aperture 8, ISO 800, exposure 1/200. Of course, for the resulting focal length, the shutter speed is unsuccessful and the aperture too. But, with a shorter shutter speed, too dark frames were obtained, the ISO was at the limit (1600 is not good), aperture 8 was also the limiting one, because two converters reduce the aperture by a factor of 4 (what is the result, f: 32 ?!). I increased the sharpness already in the editors, squeezed out, in principle, everything I could, perhaps part of the sharpness was lost due to the two conveyors.
Ehh, but on Canon there would be infinity, and the pictures would probably be sharper ... (
About a photo of the moon and a commentary on it.
Take a series of shots (from 5 to 20, you can do more, but the moon will run away) :)
Then stack them in Photoshop, align and blend along the median. You get good sharpness and quality in general. You can also remove the noise and in general a lot of things.
For details on how to do this, see the astrophotography sites. There are other methods there, but I like this one more, although it is longer, but the result is better.
Please tell me how much you can sell such a camera now?
Which camera? Look at Avito, etc. how much there.
Tell us how this lens shoots video from the Nikon D3300 where you can watch this video. I want to apply for video hunting with a dog.
Good day. I saw pictures of this lens and noticed some kind of wire coming out of the lens. In my copy of this is not. Do not tell me what it could be?
antenna.
There were options with a built-in detector receiver on the coil.
The receiver of what?
medium and long range. Station "beacon", for example!
Very witty joke
Oh really???
Nope. Even on average, a quarter of the long wave will be 50 meters, this is the air range for dispatchers, I listened - at the same time I photographed
Great lens! Birds, flowers and even portraits. Interesting boke.
Good day. Tell me please, is the lens suitable for canon 600d?
Yes.
Thank you
I have it for the second year. Satisfied. 300mm power. But not enough for the birds. The approach rarely succeeds. I did not try to attack. Although this year at sea he shot a tie. Closer than 30 meters from the nest did not allow.
Tie.
But here's what I noticed — at 3200 the focus is more confident than at 300s. Yes, the exposure meter does not work, but the 3200 matrix is better, and it will be possible to sprinkle without much deterioration.
Tair-3 in the FS version is more common and cheaper.
Here is a description of how to remake a moronic, uncomfortable and snapping "jump rope" with a pre-cocking in the stepless stepless aperture control mode:
http://simply-make.blogspot.sg/2017/12/3.html