Camera Nikon D3000 Is a direct descendant of the well-known line Nikon D40, D40x, D60 Having experience with Nikon D60 I immediately realized that the review will be almost the same as for D60because the Nikon D3000 is just an upgrade D60but still there were some interesting points worth considering.
Nikon D3000 review
First you need to understand that in the reviews a lot of attention is paid to the technical characteristics or just the characteristics of a particular camera, in Radozhiv we will try to translate strange and incomprehensible numbers and notation in this review into a language that is understandable for lovers of high-quality photos. But this model is aimed at the market of relatively cheap and simple digital SLR cameras.
If you were looking or looking or just reading this review, then you are probably already familiar with the line of low-end cameras from Nikon, this Nikon D40, Nikon D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500 All these cameras are quite similar in management, but each subsequent model has more and more functions and takes better photos and videos.
Features of the D3000 camera that you should pay attention to when buying or just when using:
1. D3000 has a CCD matrix with 10 MP... But do not forget that the megapixel race, for the most part, is not a race for quality, you can take a look at my article Battle of Megapixels. The average amateur can hardly find the difference between 6 Mp Nikon D40 and 10 megapixels Nikon D3000, even on A4 prints. The size of the matrix (physical) remains unchanged for all APS-C cameras (+ - fractions of millimeters). The physical size of the D3000 is the same as D3100, D7000, D5200. At low ISOs, the Nikon D3000 can produce a picture no worse than Nikon D7000.
2.In D3000 no focusing motor for non-motorized lenses. This is one of the most important points for this camera. It is believed that by purchasing a camera with a “motor”, that is, with a lens focusing drive, it will be possible to significantly save money. The question is quite controversial. But the fact remains that a number of lenses will not automatically focus on this camera, which will limit the choice of optics for growth or development in photography. This must be clearly understood and taken into account. For an upgrade after the whale lens, I advise you to take a look at Nikon 50mm F1.8G lenswhich has a huge aperture and will allow you to get an interesting picture with a shallow depth of field. If you need a telephoto lens to reach further, then a cheap option Nikon 55-200 f / 4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor will be just right.
3. Matrix Cleaning System. The cleaning system really helps to avoid clogging the matrix with fine dust. This really will rarely allow real cleaning. In the camera, you can specify when the camera will clean the matrix, I recommend cleaning when the camera is turned off.
4. Compact and lightweight... Do not bother with the fact that the camera is made of plastic, and not of aluminum or composites, this gives the camera lightness and you need to understand that the amateur does not need to use the camera in extreme conditions and overload it with work as much as possible.
5. Shooting speed is an important indicator. At D3000 it is 3 frames per second, a normal indicator, the same speed and Nikon D80which is much more functional than the amateur D3000. Again, amateurs do not need 10 frames per second at all, high-firing cameras are needed only for rather specific purposes. The set speed is sufficient for 99% of basic needs.
6. Image quality. Do not believe anyone that this or that camera shoots well or badly. These are just people's prejudices. We can talk about benchmarks, but in real life, the quality of the final image depends on a dozen factors and the camera is far from the first of them. In terms of quality, I will say that it fulfills its functionality 100%, just important how to take pictures.
7. Nikon D3000 has 11 focus points cameras have the same focusing module Nikon D200, D80, D90, D3100, D3200, D5100. More details in the section on focus systems.
8. Great 3 inch display. Unlike the D40 or D60, it’s half an inch larger, but still has the same 230.000 points
9. Must be considered crop factor camera which is equal to 1.5x. This means that the camera when working with lenses will narrow the viewing angle of the lens. And if, for example, you use a lens with a 50mm focal length, then the viewing angle will be the same as that of a 75mm lens on a regular full-frame camera. This is absolutely normal for APS-C cameras.
10. D3000 now works with EXPEED processor
11. Minimum excerpt flashes 1 / 200s, Nikon D40 in this regard, 2,5 times better.
12. The function of rotating the image on the screen in horizontal and vertical position. It is very convenient when the camera is turned, all the information for shooting is turned on the display and any parameter can be corrected without problems.
In brief about the main features - it is an opportunity to change ISO from 100 to 1600 + one HI1 value equivalent 3200. On HI1 I do not recommend shooting at all. Unlike Nikon 40, it became possible to lower the ISO to 100, this will allow you to use fast lenses during the day without fear not to fit into the minimum shutter speed of 1/4000 and get overexposure. On Nikon 40, it’s already quite difficult to invest in 1.8/200 second in the afternoon on F1 and ISO 4000 in the afternoon. The camera has a lot of settings for editing the footage - from working with RAW files, to creating a movie in avi format from photos. Also at the camera, the viewfinder covers 95% of the frame, and you need to remember that 5% of the frame will still be captured on the left \ right \ top \ bottom in the picture.
What I liked when working with the camera:
Weight, the weight is really small. The camera shutter is quiet, quieter than Nikon D40 or Nikon D90. I liked the large display and ergonomics - there are no extra buttons and everything is just elementary to use. There is a great guide for beginners. And the Nikon Multi-CAM 1000 focus sensor is the same as in Nikon D90. I really liked the function of rotating the screen with horizontal and vertical position of the camera.
What did not like:
The lack of a million functions present in older models, but this is a purely subjective opinion. Also, I didn’t like that little has been improved compared to Nikon D60, by and large, only the number of focus points. I didn’t like the small size for the buffer, if you shoot RAW, then already at frame 4 the camera will slow down with a flash drive of class 6. Also, I did not like that when ADL the camera “thinks” much longer when saving a picture. The noise level starting from ISO 800 greatly affects the picture quality; you cannot do without the noise reduction function.
What is the best way to use the camera and what to configure?
The FN button can be programmed by choosing one of several options, I advise you to set the ISO quick change function on it.
To buy this else?
Preferably a pretty bag, the main thing is that it is comfortable, you can buy a bigger bag to fit an additional lens. It is possible and desirable to also buy lenses, first of all, this is a high-aperture fixture and one telephoto lens. The main thing is to remember that important how to take pictures, and not what technique to do it on.
He shared his photos Radmir Karimov:
UPDATED
Nikon D3000+ Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4D.
What upgrade can I do after Nikon D3000? If you decide to change your D3000 to another camera, then I recommend switching to class cameras Nikon D90, Nikon D7000or on the camera of a similar amateur class Nikon D5100, Nikon D5200.
Conclusions:
Nikon D3000 has proven itself by showing excellent ergonomics and ease of operation. Tips will always help a beginner to navigate the settings, and flexible firmware will allow you to quickly and easily use the camera for any purpose. Who wants to upgrade after Nikon D40, D40x, D60, D50, D70(s) - will not receive anything particularly new.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
In manual modes, the focus point is highlighted in the viewfinder even when the shutter is not pressed. when you turn on the car, it disappears. The camera did not fall and was not damaged in any other way. Please advise a problem in the camera, or maybe this is a lens problem? Unfortunately now there is no way to check since I’m sitting with a grandmother in the village =)
Same focus point? And you mean manual focus mode, or manual camera control mode “M”?
Yes, constantly. I meant the modes M, A, S, P. With manual focus, it also does not disappear.
This is how it should be in Single Focus Point mode.
is there any work with this camera?
have here http://foto.rambler.ru/cameras/2503/?page=1&order=-uploaded
Please tell me how can I make a blurred background in the photo ??
is he without a screwdriver?
Yes, it is without a focus motor.
In mode M, I’ve got a shutter speed but the diaphragm stands still even though I do everything according to the instructions for the camera. I can’t understand what my mistake is. Tell me please.
In this mode, the iris is controlled by pressing the + - button and rotating the wheel.
I am the owner of this camera I have a question I want to take myself a zoom lens the price is almost the same ZOOM ARSAT H 4,5 / 80-200 or Nikon 55-200 f / 4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor second Of course it will be crammed more, but judging by the quality of the photo, which will be better? they have the same zoom, but the viewing angle of ARSAT is more correct, I understand? if the quality of the pictures is the same, is it better to take a Chinese with auto focus and stabilization? please advise how best to spend the money :) Thank you.
Arsat has a narrower viewing angle. I advise all the same native 55-200.
Good day to everyone today, I accidentally found such a site, maybe you know about its existence, but I want to share who does not know (Lens simulator), now I understand what the difference is!
http://nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/nikkor-lenses/simulator
Hello! My first digital SLR was the Nikon D3000 kit, in principle, as for a beginner, it suited me quite well (though I didn't like the dynamic range, everything somehow turned out faded), and one day after 11,5 years and having shot no more than 5000 frames, he the diaphragm control unit has failed (it seems so called). Stopped focusing at the maximum focal length, and at close range it began to smear heavily with autofocus. After reading about this problem on the Internet, I realized that this is their disease, when the shutter is released, the message “Error: press the shutter button again” appears. Therefore, I concluded for myself that these cameras are not very reliable (by the way, I handled it very carefully, I never dropped it, and I did not fotal in the humidity). I changed it to Sony SLT-A77, so with it the photos are much juicier without any editors, with the same kit 18-55 lens.
I’m wondering how this camera can be 11 and a half years old?
The button stuck)) she was only 1,5 years old, and shot no more than 5000 frames, I contacted our service center and said that such devices have a warranty of only a year. And the average repair of such a unit costs half the cost of a carcass
Yes, and about the sensor I found a lot of information that they are different, for example, from the THG.ru forum quote:
“Difference between D200 and D80 matrices
In several neighboring branches, questions were asked whether the same matrix is on the D200 and D80.
The matrices are different.
D200 has a Sony ICX483AQA matrix
D80 respectively Sony ICX493AQA
I will give a comparison of specifications:
Number of data reading channels: 4 (D200) 2 (D80)
Voltage: 7V (D200) 6V (D80)
The number of connectors on the chip: 80 (D200) 64 (D80)
Speed - fps: 5.6 (D200) 3.3 (D80)
The physical size of the matrix - mm: 31.4 x 37.2 (D200) 27.1 x 35.3 (D80) (there is clearly an error in the dimensions)
Data flow diagram in the D200 sensor:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7693/sensord200ta5.th.jpg (http://img86.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sensord200ta5.jpg)
The same goes for the D80:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7707/sensord80ge3.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sensord80ge3.jpg)
Interestingly, according to the upper diagram, the D200 allows you to take data for each of the colors separately.
Help please! I bought D3000 yesterday. I tried to take a picture, but for some reason my photos are blurry, no matter what mode I choose. Help, please, tell me what settings you need to change. In this case, I, unfortunately, have a teapot! (((
Try to turn on the automatic focus on the lens, AF-A mode on the camera and shoot in automatic mode (green camera on the mode dial). It should work out.
Photosensitivity From 100 to 1 ISO units in increments of 600/1 EV. What exactly is it in 3/1 increments?
Nikon D3000 camera. I select a fotik. I read the specifications. I am an amateur, but I want high-quality photos. I'm interested in your opinion about this fotik.
Or is the d3100 better? But the same question for the d3100 Sensitivity From 100 to 3200 ISO units in 1 EV steps, namely, “with 1 EV steps”, what is it like? Thanks in advance.
Why do you need step 1 \ 3? In automatic mode, ISO is not important.
The question is what kind of step is this?
The step shows how much the iso changes, if the step is one, then the iso changes with stops 100, 200, 400, 800, etc. if the step is 1/3 then ISO is changed by thirds of the stops 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, etc.
And what is better Nikon D3000 or Nikon D3100?
So I joined the ranks of the happy owners of this camera. I made my choice after reading the entire blog :-). It remains to buy an adapter for the "free" Tair-11A (able to "5", since they rarely used it) and learn-learn-learn.
Why the choice fell on this camera - to learn the advantages of CZK in comparison with compacts. Although my Canon IXUS 870IS also gives good photos, I can't even compare with the D3000 ... If you like taking photographs and want to develop, then you can already move on to something more serious, and give your first CPC to your wife, let him study too :-) ...
Good thoughts.
Please tell me which base ISO D3000 did not find in the internet
100
Hey. Yesterday I bought a D 3000 WHEN I TURN ON THE PHOTO SCREEN GREETS SOMETHING 7 MINOPS. Is that how it should be?
Could you describe in more detail what you mean by “warming up for 7 minutes”.
Apparently, the screen is warm, tube)
Yes, progress for 5 years stepped!
Good afternoon, tell me the nuance, in the M mode, I installed the Helios44m-2 lens, when I turn on the flash, I get a message that the Flash is in TTL mode, select another mode or a lens with a processor, it turns out that the lens will not work on lenses without a microprocessor or nada removable flash ????
In the camera menu, you need to select the manual M flash control mode, and everything will work. More details - here https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/
Thanks, it helped
Hello, Arkady. He became the owner of the D3000 body. Please advise the lens, the choice is between Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor, Tamron AF 17-50mm f / 2.8 SP XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF] VC, Nikon AF-S DX VR Nikkor 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G. Thanks in advance.
Nikon AF-S DX VR Nikkor 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G is a good lens, of these 3 I recommend it.
Arkady - help please - I am facing the choice of the second carcass (the first is D7000, I have very good knowledge of photographic equipment, but I did not twist both cameras - 3000 and 80 in my hands, therefore I ask for help) - tell me - is there a difference between reliability (in particular, the resource shutter) and picture quality between 3000 and 80 nikon? I will be very grateful for the detailed, professional answer (I seem to find where to buy the D80 - even a new one - but they doubt that this is not a rebade, although everything may even be new)
Nikon D80 and Nikon D3000 - These are amateur cameras by the standards of Nikon himself (I give Nikon D80 an advanced status), the number of shutter operations is not indicated for this segment, so one can judge that their shutter is not as powerful as that of professional models. From experience I will say that the shutters go from instance to instance in different ways. The image quality is almost the same since the cameras have the same sensor.
and if you consider that the 200 has a better "body kit" than the 80's ... I heard that the 3000's used the same body kit as the 80's and! - we even improved the post-processing algorithm - that is, at the output (according to rumors and theorists) we have a better picture in terms of noise and DD (by a couple of percent) ... do you think this is true? (or at least - not simplified - in connection with a younger model than 80 ??! thanks for being there!
Percentage shares, the rest is the same.
thank you! - bought today as a second camera D3000 - did not want to see a priori D3100 - because of its CMOP matrix - all the same, CDC is better - on iso minimum than CMOP - it has more correct colors
the first one I have is the D7000 - this is for difficult scenes where the lighting is poor, but for the soul - this will be a camera ... all the same, because of the very multi-megapixel matrix - 7000 very often requires long exposures and it is not so easy to get a blur-free frame from it ... but with 3000 - everything is familiar (the first camera in 2009 was with me, then I sold it ...)
For the D7000, the shutter speed is probably as short as possible, so for a fast frame it is better to set the iso auto and shutter speed.
Good day everyone! Happy holidays! First of all, I want to thank Arkady for a VERY useful site, altruism and, in general, attitude to this topic. Briefly about myself: for a very long time I dreamed of doing photography, but it didn’t work (either lack of time, then money, etc.) I got this camera (as I understood from the reviews and reviews, it's just right for a student), bought a 50mm, 1,8F lens (like for portraits, although then I realized that portrait photographers are 35mm). Now I think about a decent one (for D3000) and not very expensive telephoto. I read your review on Nikon 55-200 f / 4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor-like nothing. Then I read the reviews, I thought ... Arkady, what can you say about Nikon 55- 300 f / 4.5-5.6G ED DX VR AF-S Nikkor? I understand that Nikon 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor is the best deal, but for me it is a little expensive. And there are also questions about photographic terminology. What topic can you ask? Thank you in advance.
A question on terminology, for example here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/07/what-is-main/35mm is not a portrait lens, it just makes it easier for them to photograph because of the wider viewing angle. 55-300 is longer range, but 55-200 is often sufficient.
... Your review for Nikon 55-300 f / 4.5-5.6G ED DX VR AF-S Nikkor is not present, but I would like to read (and the price for me is quite ...). You somehow placed me in confidence.
As soon as possible, I will review 55-300
Not “anonymous” - Vitalik.
Arkady, advise a third-party optics on D3000, the requirements are: 1) zoom-staff 2) acceptable sharpness 3) 2,8 aperture 4) autofocus 5) less tolerable reliability of the construct. If it's not difficult - then you can write a couple of options. Very grateful for your answer!
Tamron 17-50 2.8 (with stub and without stub)
Sigma 17-50 2.8
Tokina 16.5-50 2.8
and which of this will be cooler in design?
I did not work with all of these lenses, I can not tell.
but something tells me that you would advise Tokin, right?
I do not know. I use Tamron 17-50 myself.
"I do not know. I use Tamron 17-50 myself. "
Oh, I just often heard for its constructive - that with active (even careful) use, it triggers the guide joints that activate the zoom rings ... what can you briefly say about this? delirium or still there are similar symptoms of wear (the zoom ring becomes tighter, jamming, etc.)
Everything is described here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/11/tamron-17-50mm-f2-8-xr-di-ii-ld-aspherical-if/
thank you