MC Kaleinar-5H is an excellent short telephoto lens with f / 2.8-22 aperture and 100mm focal length. His double meets ARSAT H 100 F2.8 - they are the same lens. After the collapse of the USSR, the optics of the Arsenal plant began to be produced under the brand name “Arsat“. They say that this is a Soviet copy Nikon 2.8 / 100 Series Ebut this is not so, Nikon and Kaleinar have different optical schemes.
Overview of the lens Kaleinar-5N 2.8 100mm
Lens MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 is a legendary lens. MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 was produced for 'Kiev' cameras with 'H' mount. Now the lens MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 is very popular lens due to its relative cheapness and high quality of the resulting photos. He is rightfully considered one of the best Soviet portrait lenses.
view of the MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 100 lens from the back and from the side with MDF with an elongated hood
The current popularity of the MC Kaleinar-5H 2.8 / 100 lens is due to the fact that Nikon cameras have not changed their mount type for more than 50 years. Some of the 'Kiev' cameras have the same mount as Nikon, this allows you to use lenses with the 'H' designation on modern Niko SLR camerasn without any adapters. In more detail about the use of old Soviet lenses in the article about Soviet lenses... For those who want to use the MC Kaleinar-5H 2.8 / 10 on a Canon system, an article about old lenses at canon.
Type of lens enlightenment MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 100
When using the MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 lens (the letter 'H' in the name means the mount type), there will be no problems with focusing to infinity, as well as with aperture presetting. Once installed on Nikon cameras, the aperture will be at its maximum open position and will only close at the time of shooting - just like with modern Nikon lenses. It is very easy to find out the year of manufacture of a lens - the first two digits in its serial number are responsible for this.
Sample photo on MS Kaleinar 5-n
The first thing that catches your eye, but rather in the hands - massiveness of MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 10... The lens weighs over 300 grams with its small appearance. MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 10 is made in the good old traditions - glass and metal. Actually, my copy is over 20 years old, but the quality remains at the same high level.
View of the aperture of the lens diaphragm MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 100
Focusing:
The lens has only manual focus. The focus ring is rubberized. When focusing, the trunk of the lens lengthens by about 2 centimeters. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees, so the Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 MC has very large stroke of the focus ring. When focusing, the front lens does not rotate. Focusing on the lens is nice enough. The minimum focusing distance is 80 centimeters.
Diaphragm
The lens aperture has only 6 blades - this is one of the strong disadvantages of this lens. The aperture blades are black, the light in the middle of the lens does not reflect back. F / 2.8 maximum allows easy control of DOF and taking photos with blurry background. The aperture can range from F / 2.8 to F / 22. Please note that when using the lens on Nikon cameras, automatic iris control is possible using the aperture ring on the lens, this is due to the fact that the lens is AI-S compatible lens for Nikon. If you use the lens on other cameras, then the usual manual iris control will be available.
I use or used this lens on cameras without any problems Nikon D90, Nikon D40, D80 и D700.
Sample photo on MS Kaleinar 5-n
When using the lens on cameras Nikon DX EGF lens will fit 150mm. On cropped cameras, the MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 is a real telephoto lens. Due to the excellent ratio of focal length and aperture, the MC Kaleinar-5N 2.8/100 lens is perfect for portrait and creative shooting.
I have more here one shot at Kaleinar = 5N in the studio.
Attention!
This lens can work in full automatic aperture control mode through the camera and with confirmation of focus... How to do it - read in my article Dandelion Lushnikova.
Dimensions of two portrait lenses
Addition to the article:
Recently I got my hands on a Kaleinar-5H lens with an interesting name written through the letter 'C' - 'MC Cbut byjnar-5H 2.8 / 100 '. In the literature, there is an export version with a name through the letter 'K' - Kalejnar-5H (see here) Visually, it is no different from a lens with a name in Cyrillic and looks like this:
The lens has good image quality. First of all, I want to note the excellent sharpness over the entire field of the frame, good contrast, color reproduction. MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 well tolerates backlight, has no distortion. The vignetting of the lens is minimal, especially when using the lens on cropped cameras.
view of the lens MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 100 on the Nikon D80
Beginning photographers can feel the old days with the Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 MC and appreciate the importance of each shot they receive, as well as increase their level of dexterity and knowledge of photographing methods and techniques. There is even a joke that a novice photographer usually buys the simplest camera Nikon D40 and one of the Helios-81N or Kaleinar-5N lenses.
Dimensions of two lenses
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Conclusions:
MS Kaleinar-5n - a unique lens with fabulous sharpness. The lens is in the top five best portrait soviet lenses.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Filters are placed on this lens, if so, what diameter?
Thank you
There was such a question. Quote: “He has a thread for 52mm filters.”
Did anyone have a problem with the shutter hitting the lens? It seems to me so, because when I hear cotton, vibration is transmitted to the glass. Nikon D610
If the mirror hit the lens, it would break or be scratched on the edge.
in fact, the "shudder" of Soviet F-mount lenses when shooting is a typical phenomenon from triggering a "jump rope". It is better not to touch the lens at the moment of shooting.
I didn't have such a thing, the curtain should not touch the lens, the seat for all is the same ...
umm.. what curtain? O_o
Acquired Kaleinar-5N. The mechanical part is in good condition, the optics are clean, the lenses in the lens block are installed in their places, according to the optical scheme and are not mixed up. I can't decide on the sharpness when shooting. There is a double impression - and there is sharpness (small details are visible in the photo), but in general, as it were, there is no sharpness. Please, look at the pictures and comment. There are 3 RAW files at this link: https://yadi.sk/d/ZIZw-cq_gppMC
Did you look at the optics with a flashlight? And how was it determined that “the lenses in the lens unit are installed in their places, according to the optical scheme and are not confused”? I experienced a similar effect when there was condensation in the form of small drops on the inner lens, as in the photo
See if the back or negative lens is upside down. You have great spha, smotirt and interlens.
Thank you for your reply!
The rear lens is plano-convex. Its correct position is with a bulge inward. The negative lens is mounted with a concave surface towards the rear, i. E. correctly. Conducted an experiment. I turned these two lenses in turn - the sharpness of the disappearance is completely. I returned everything to its original state.
sorry for the stupid question :) do you put experiments without a light filter on the lens?
Experiences like using a lens like burning glass?! :)
Or maybe enlightenment is damaged? Are the lenses themselves not cloudy? Or is it a lens lens?
Rodion, again, the lens is in perfect condition. The inter-lens space is blacked out. Like you, I tend to have spherical aberration.
From theory, quote: “… rays falling on the edges of the lens are collected closer to the lens than rays falling on the center of the lens. As a result, the image of a point on the plane is obtained in the form of a blurred circle or disk. In photographs, the effect of spherical aberration appears as a softened image. ”
Thanks for the reply Yuri!
I disassembled the lens unit ... each glass was examined and carefully installed again in its assigned seat.
It usually occurs if either the lens is upside down or the distance between them is broken.
... and here the lenses are not inverted and the distance between them is strictly fixed ...
Tell me, please, is this a defect in the manufacture of the lens or acquired over time during operation?
Try hovering over Liveview. Lack of sharpness may be due to front or back focus. In the photo with the building, it looks like you have a terrible shortfall to infinity. I am more than sure that before you the lens was disassembled and assembled incorrectly (did not hit the required number of turns in the multi-threaded thread.) If the lenses are clean, then you will have to study the materiel for assembling and disassembling the subject and completely reassemble it from scratch.
And it may also be that a non-native lens was put in the lens, for example, from Kaleinar of other years of production. If the optical design changed a little (the curvature of some lenses), then the lenses are no longer interchangeable. But try to get infinity first by rebuilding the lens.
the same with kaleinar and mine. softit on all diaphragms. at the same time it looks perfect, glass mechanics, even no dust inside.
this successful copy, this not successful, Soviet shit!
decided not to play around with a scoop anymore, for the money that you will spend on finding a “good copy” on the secondary, it is better to go to the store and buy a new one right away with a guarantee, albeit several times more expensive!
True, I was lucky with Helios - he is excellent.
... but I still bought one more - in Photofishke.ru I got a normal copy! But I rarely use it.
As already mentioned - there may be a rear lens upside down. It is flat-convex, and should be flat back.
not in the circuit everything is okay I checked. even went through and rubbed all the lenses with alcohol.
there, if you turn around, you can catch a loose pattern, probably glue. like a kaleidoscope, it is barely noticeable at some viewing angles. this is gluing. hence the soft effect. you can stick the lenses .. but that's another story ..
either throw it away or for parts.
carefully check when buying, but it’s better to agree and take a couple of pictures in advance.
57ue threw out. The huckster who hit me with it rides a red Nissan Mikra, I will find him and kill him.))
Good afternoon! I fell into the hands of Kaleinar-5N with the tail of M42. Maybe someone has an ownerless shank on Nikon? Ready to buy.
Order, for example, on eBay. Here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macro-M42-Lens-To-Nikon-Adapter-For-D7100-D7000-D800-D600-D5200-D5100-D3100-D750/400931777044?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31356%26meid%3Df9e4d81b883646f49975354bfcb53a67%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D281697639276
Arkady, good afternoon!
Thank you very much for your reviews. Please tell me: there is a Nikon 3100 with a native 18-105 lens. I tried the manual Helios-81N - I really liked the quality and drawing. Please tell me: is it worth replenishing your kit with Kaleinar?
+ Kaleinar 5
+Jupiter 37
and maybe your whale will gather dust on the shelf
Is Jupiter-37A not too much for a crop (focal is 200mm)?
Well, Yu37 is considered by many to be one of the most successful from the USSR. Maybe sometime someone somewhere is both long and dark (people have different needs), but I also think that it is worth every penny. They just mass-produced them, because now the price is like that. Kaleinar is a little more convenient focal length and the body is more compact and looks better on the carcass. But very often they have a clouded lens inside. Sometimes you can clean it yourself, and some can’t assemble it later. Yu37 is almost very rare with jambs or marriage. And the price is lower. You can even start by buying a U37, the MS version is desirable but not required (better a little but more expensive). But if a good Kaleinar for a normal price, you also need to take it.
Thanks Igor.
Among the whale lenses, the Nikon 18-105 is pretty sharp! The familiar professional photographer Kaleinar-5N sold, and Helios-81N does not even think of selling. :)
which one is better for a Kaleinar-5N portrait or this lens?
The best for everyone! It's like beautiful girls, there are many of them and everyone likes them. Which one to choose? First you need to get to know her, get to know her, touch her ...) Maybe she won't suit you, or you won't suit her .. But until you get to know her, you won't know! )
Kaleinar-5N or MS Jupiter-37A *?
Kaleinar is an excellent lens, I have been using it for portraits on the d90 for a year, a little contrast is not enough, but it is fixable in the editor, the bokeh is beautiful. I also have a wave of 3 80 / 2.8, but it draws a little worse, helios 44-2 is also good. Of these, three are the best kaleinar.
Which one will make the Helios-81N campaign better
For a wider range of shooting: landscape, macro, portrait (full-length)
great lens but rarely used
Hello everyone! I got myself this lens. I noticed a spot on the lens. Either mold, or water. On an open aperture, photos are obtained through fog. What do you think this is? And is it still possible to save the lens?
Unfortunately, it's fungus.
it's 50/50 here.
disassemble, if the fungus is on the surface of the lens, and not in the gluing, then you can wipe it off with saliva. And then - walk with alcohol and napkins.
If in gluing - then alas, nothing.
It is interesting to look at the photo taken with this lens. How does "fog" appear?
This happens only at aperture 2.8 (apparently because the spot is on the edge of the lens).
For some reason I asked for a photo - I wanted to see the EXIF shooting data, but for some reason the exif was not filled. A spot on the lens can affect the contrast of the image, and the lens is sharp. This is a soft effect - the image is soft. There is also a purple border on the contrasting transitions. What it is? – Andrey wrote well about it in the article. Search here on the site. On my Kaleinar, the lenses are clean, and the soft effect is present at all aperture values. I asked a question about this above. You can minimize this effect in the editor. The main thing here is not to overdo it. I edited the photo a bit - it's better. : Sharpness has not been adjusted.
This photo was taken by my Kaleinar at F2,8.
a paragraph after the photo with a girl wearing glasses: “… Kalainar 5H / 10…” and the next sentence is the same - there is not enough zero; not 10, but 100 ..
Comrades !! Tell me what to take for Nikon? Calainar 5n or Jupiter9. I'm more interested in the “artistry” of the picture, bokeh. Sharpness would also be desirable.
If the word portrait is not mentioned, then Industar 50-2 is sharp, 'artistic', etc.
as well as zoom, aperture, and autofocus.
Sell lens MS Kaleinar-5N Ai 100 mm f/ 2.8 http://fotoselling.ru/products/10439525
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Guys!
ALL Soviet lenses should be divided into years of production. The quality is really different ...
Kalenar-5N is a wonderful lens. But until 1986. Then, their quality fell.
Once again I repeat: DO NOT FOLLOW the sellers' tricks (“new, no one used it”) Basically, these are copies of the 90s, when the film was leaving, and the figure had not yet arrived. This is no longer Soviet optics.
Pay attention to the YEAR OF RELEASE!
Good day! Tell me please. I have a nikon d 3200 camera and the 5N kaleinar lenses will not be able to cooperate, this is expressed in the fact that the lens does not snap and as a result the iris control does not work. Who came across and can tell. thanks
Perhaps you need to make a little more effort, because the allowances of Soviet optics differ from imported ones.
Had tried. Now I found out that the pin of the lens aperture rests against the plastic near the aperture tab in the camera. I already had a thought to file it off ... But taking the second kaleinar there was the same story. Then I put the same kaleinar on the Kiev camera, everything works great there and does not rest anywhere
file, alas .. just do not miss the depth.
maybe bend over?
Bend the pin? It is unlikely that Metell seems fragile. I'll try to mount the second kaleinar mount and try
One of the best Soviet lenses, although it is somewhat overpriced. From the Soviet left him, Gelik 81, Dzhup 37a without MS, Industar 61 lz and Gelik 44 with 13 petals. Kaleinar is the most sought after. It may be too good a copy, but I really like the photos from him, although there is a Nikonovskaya pile, 135 Zeiss Sonnar. Mast have. Joop is also very, but long on the crop. I chose from several pieces, the rest I sold. Of the shortcomings - 1. you need to choose from several, the trouble with optics from a scoop is a large variation in quality for different specimens, 2. Enlightenment is not so hot, unstable to mechanical stress, with defects in all specimens that fell into the hands, applied by the crooked hands of the Soviet proletariat, it catches hares anyway. 3. Disease - darkening of the last gluing, not treated. Perhaps for some specimens, maybe with time for everyone, 4. The diaphragm is not blackened, metal chips fly from it to the lenses. I cleaned it, took it off for a day - you can clean it again, beautiful sparkles inside are provided. But for the picture I forgive everything.
You know, I often came across very sloppy and defective lenses made by the hands of bourgeois mercenaries under the strict supervision of the owners. Especially their picture is useless at all. Surprised?
Viniklo powered.
Having added MS Helios-81H 2/50. Is it logical now to buy the MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100 “Telek”? Chi for such tasks it is more beautiful to take MC Granit-11N F4,5 80-200mm - Tele-N 3.5 / 200 bet?
Hello. Tell me please. I want to buy this glass with a chip adapter for canon 600D will focus on infinity? I just saw Kaleinar 5n with m42 mount for sale. There is little difficulty in choosing which one. Take the Nikon mount F adapter - Canon EOS or the m42-Canon EOS. Maybe someone has a similar experience.
maaamon@mail.ru
On Canon, it doesn't matter, and there the tail section changes.
but it’s better to take it under Nikon, then it will be easier to sell and, if necessary, a separate shank for M42 is easier to find than for Nikon F (and you already have one).
What year is better to choose a lens?
The best is leap year.
They say they have much higher sharpness and smoothness of guidance, and enlightenment casts yellow.
But they are rare, 4 times less likely to meet
Rumor has it that released on a full moon is even better!
But seriously, you can, of course, argue that before the collapse of the USSR, control was more stringent, or, conversely, they made a plan-by-shaft / shaft-according to plan, but the most important selection factor is a specific instance that does not depend on the date release. For the quality varied within fairly large limits, plus the degree of preservation very much depends on the conditions of storage and operation.
I have an outwardly completely usled Kaleinar, with signs of disassembly and other signs of loss of virginity; but nevertheless, clean / dry inside and showing excellent picture quality.
One of the few chic lenses of Soviet times :)
Exactly.
On the basis of the conclusions about this lens, - I do not quite agree on the backlight and contrast of the picture! The lens is good for its sharpness, beautiful bokeh and strong construction, but he really does not like backlight and a retractable hood does not help, you can get a contrast picture only when the contrast slider to the right is set in the camera settings.
I am not a specialist in portraits, but it’s mine, who holds his hands like that, as if someone else’s head was substituted and said “hold tight so that you don’t fall.”