Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Hack and predictor Aviator
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I marvel at the butt in full view, as well as at the last resources and supply: what about your U-37A and your color and contrast ??? In the me є suttєvі zaouzvazhennya before me a copy in voiced nutrition. The contrast is required to drag minimum to the quarter, and to color the trochs. I can tell you what, the chamber jpg wigglyє foggy and trocha sep_yno. It’s sound, it’s possible that everything is possible, so as not to rob honesty. Mauger Do you know how much for a lackey? Dyakuyu
Most likely the specimen is not very good, the fact that the contrast is lost is a common thing. I have an Olympic (1980 with the emblem of the Olympics) copy, which is quite high quality. Unfortunately, when I was writing this review, photos with processing crept in here - autolevels are applied. But in general, on my copy, more or less normal contrast.
I use exactly the same lens with the Samsung NX11 mirrorless camera, with a crop of 1,5 I get a kind of “telephoto for the poor” with EGF = 202,5. But it's a little dark, you can shoot with your hands only in sunny weather. As a macro, it is quite possible to use, just from a long distance, here is an example (albeit not the most successful, but still): http://www.photoclub.com.ua/photo/570573/ Or if you turn it around (my adapter allows this). Sharpness is noticeably better than the whale 18-55, specially compared.
Hooray! I bought it on the Hammer, and it is brand new (1978)! Waiting for it to come! So impatient to take Jupiter in hand!
Arkady, thanks for the review!
Arkady, what is the best way to buy Jupiter 80 years old (Olympic) or Jupiter 85 years old? The condition at the online auction for two lenses is ideal and the price is the same.
Thank you for your reply!
Olympians are good, even without MS. I just left the Olympic version.
Arkady, will there be a review of Vivitar 70-210 mm / 4,5 MS, a very interesting glass
If I fall into the hands of course I will.
I got it yesterday, for nikon d90, I got an Olympic copy, worn out uh ..., but a very beautiful picture. The portraits are very beautiful with a kind of side. Thank you so much for your advice and review.
Arkady, have you tried the filter for Jupiter (J-2x 52x0,75). I wonder how he is? Help or not?
Thank you
Zh-2x 52x0,75 - as an option. Maybe some other from the Soviet (UF, O, Zhg, G)?
I did not try the Soviet filters.
Arkady, tell me how to find out which shank I have on the lens (Jupiter-37A)? There are no signs on the shank, measured with a ruler, somewhere 41-42mm. Will the M42-Canon EOS EF adapter immediately fit it or do you need to put some other adapter?
Yes, most likely KP-A / 42 (there are no antennae, but only bare thread for twisting). M42-Canon EOS EF will do.
how to use the depth of field scale on this objective, and what does the "R" - highlighted by the red line mean
The Grip scale is the same as on other lenses, it shows the “width” of the depth of field on the focusing distance scale. R - stands for infrared focus shift.
focus infrared shift? generally not clear
Yes, when shooting in the infrared spectrum, you need to take into account the focus correction, since due to the different frequency of the spectrum, the lens projects a certain frequency range onto the matrix in different ways. Therefore, if someone needs to shoot in the infrared zone, the lens has a correction that should be introduced. R - from IR (infra Red)
what is better tair 11 or jupiter 37 a ms
In terms of aperture ratio - Tair, in drawing - a moot point. For the price, Jupiter is better.
and what is better to start with autofocus or manual optics?
You need to start with the basics of composition, after which you can shoot with anything. But, for a start, I recommend autofocus, and the manual - as an excellent tool for development.
and in terms of taira and jupiter forgot to finish how they are in comparison of aberrations and distortions and other optical distortions
The review says that the disruption of both is practically zero. They are a little slack, they’re afraid of the light, but it all depends on the situation and the configuration (hood, ms version, etc.)
How was such a cow pushed into a tree?
I know what kind of MDF Jupiter has, but about taira, I don’t know, please tell me
Tair-11A MDF 1.5m
How will this lens work with the Nikon D7000? I know that we need an adapter KP-A \ N with a lens for infinity to work.
If you take it, then what is better with enlightenment or without what will be the difference in the picture? Which release years are better?
I wonder what his weight is?
What should I look for when buying?
Thank you
How will this lens work with the Nikon D7000?
Answer: It will work like any other manual lens, everything is described in detail in my article about old lenses here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/, about what, in fact, said in the review.
I know that we need an adapter KP-A \ N with a lens for infinity to work.
Answer: We need KP-A \ N but it is without a lens, it’s clearly indicated in my review, please be more careful and ask questions only after reading the review itself.
If you take it, then what is better with enlightenment or without what will be the difference in the picture? Which release years are better?
Answer: it is better to take the Olympian from the 1980 MC. The difference in the picture mainly concerns the contrast in side and backlight.
I wonder what his weight is?
Answer: about 400g
What should I look for when buying?
Answer: Take into account the cleanliness of the lenses.
Дякую
An excellent lens, it has become my favorite) Colors, sharpness and even a special "soul", what is lacking in modern inexpensive glasses. I put it through the adapter on my Nikon D90 and I'm happy)
Arkady, many thanks for the reviews and
special thanks to Alexander for the adapter KP A / N and the limit switch and limit switch m42-n.
I hooked on the Mir-10a adapter, the state is 4+, though without a lid but with a green light filter, I took a couple of times, looked and screwed the shank to the Jupiter-37A, xs year of manufacture, my “carcass” is d300s and the staff is 50 1 / 1,4zh, there are also 16-85 “nikor”, but I do not like it terribly and on occasion would sell it into good hands. So, for the third day already, there is no desire to shoot Jupiter from the camera, and portraits and street photography and panoramas, mode on the M camera, ISO 200 and below, shutter speeds that I have not seen at 50 1 / 1,4, 1600-2250 and at f -eleven. Sharp awesome, though from 11-18 nikor, which I had with D55 remained 40 * macrolens with 1,5mm thread, does he really want to be friends?
Happy for you. I can not say anything about the macrolens and Jupiter-37A.
…… yes in pursuit, more
I realized that I don't really like the wide angle, I hooked Mir-1v and Industar-50-2 with the shank, and ... unhooked,
I look towards Nikor 180 mm 2,8 AI-s, or look at a newer one? I mean 180 mm 2,8 but the machine? With regards to the sharpness of Jupiter, I remembered all the same youth.
... I thought - as it was before, mastering the camera and understanding the process began with manual lenses, M mode and without a light meter at all
The old 180 2.8 gives odds to all 180s, both new and old. You can see an overview and thoughts about it here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/06/obzor-nikon-180mm-2-8-ed/
Thank you Arkady for the answer and for the reviews with which I started acquaintance with the site, many thanks
not at all) do not forget about helping the project
Today I got a lens! This is just a song !! Super photos are obtained!
Thank you for the review, otherwise I would not have looked at it (I would have bought some garbage as always)
and a small question: small oily spots on the blades of the diaphragm, very sad or not. Who is being cleaned or should not be fooled?
A little oil on the petals should be, this is the norm for Jupiter.
Happy for you)
Hello Arkady. so glad I found your SUPER site! Hooray! I finally decided on the lens, I take Jupiter 37A (if I understood correctly, the first numbers on the lens 79, then this is the year. And the box with the Olympic rings), the question is, does it fit my TTL zenith? I unfortunately do not understand the technical data, please help. thanks
Yes, it’s suitable, only he should have a tail KP-A \ 42
Hello Arkady! Tell me, is it possible to install this lens on the Pentax K-mount?
Of course have. Using KP-A \ 42 + M42 \ Pentax K
Please tell me if it makes sense to buy a Jupiter 37a Lens if there is 21m in the arsenal. Offer at a price of 300 UAH. The camera is cropped. Thanks in advance.
There is a sense, 135tka is very light, lighter than 21m.