Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
Difference in enlightenment MS and not the MC version of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Hack and predictor Aviator
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello, I need your advice because I'm already confused myself. There is a camera with 1.6 crop and there is a Canon EF-S 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS STM lens (i.e. a lens for a cropped matrix). The Jupiter 37A has a 135mm FR, will the Jupiter have the same viewing angle as the Canon EF-S on 135mm FR? or will the image from “Jupiter” appear “closer”?
The same angle will be.
Thanks. Here I tried to set approximately 18mm to 135-58 and took a picture, after which I took a picture on Helios 44-2. The results are very similar (18-135 fit a little more). Is this what turns out on the crop matrix, a full-frame lens almost does not change the viewing angle? It’s just that on the crop the central part of the image from the full-frame lens is used and it seems like getting into the frame should be much less, but in fact the difference between the full-frame and cropped optics is almost not visible. Can you explain how it works? Well, or at least tell the source where this phenomenon is well described.
There is no difference - the real focal length does not change with the matrix size. But if you were comparing shots on a full-frame camera and a crop with the same lens, then there would be a difference. We are talking about EGF - on a full frame, a 58 mm lens has a viewing angle like 40 mm on a crop. And, accordingly, on a crop, 58 mm has an angle of view like 85 on a full frame.
Set 135 mm and get the same viewing angle as the Jupiter-37A mounted on the crop.
Thank you very much for explaining, it's just that this EGF confused me. If I understood everything correctly, then to get the same result as 135mm and crop 1.6, will you need a full frame with 216mm?
Right. 50 (or 58) mm on FF is the same standard fix as 35 mm on crop, i.e. angles are the same. Put the 50-k on the crop, get the angle (EGF), like 85 on the FF, 85mm on the crop = 135mm on the FF, 135 crop = 216mm on the FF. If you have only a crop and do not plan to use FF, you can not bother with this.
Thank you very much for helping me figure it out. I don't see any reason to switch to FF (there is no possibility for finances, and for "level"), the question is of interest because the camera is crop, and the optics are full-frame. I thought that the optics for the crop and FF have differences in viewing angle with the same FR, but it turned out that they did not. I wanted to understand what angle of view the "Jupiter 37A" would get, but it turns out that it will be the same as that of Canon EF-S 18-135 (with FF 135mm).
"The viewing angle ... will be the same as that of the Canon EF-S 18-135 (with a FF of 135mm)" - theoretically yes, in practice (see Eugene's post dated 01.03.2016/XNUMX/XNUMX) Jupiter is much closer.
There may be several options for the cause of this:
- the real FR of Jupiter is more than 135
- the real FR of the 18-135 zoom at the long end is less than 135
both options are real, especially the second. In zooms, sometimes the maximum FR depends on the focusing distance.
Chances are that Canon's 'Focus Breathing' (change in angle of view during focusing) will have a wider angle of view at close and medium focusing distances. And so they are at infinity + - 135mm
You are sitting in this source:
https://radojuva.com/2012/10/lens-mm/
https://radojuva.com/2011/05/size-of-matrica/
https://radojuva.com/2012/04/kind-of-lens/
https://radojuva.com/2014/01/calculon/
https://radojuva.com/2013/05/the-crop-identity/
https://radojuva.com/2016/04/aps-c-bokeh-again/
So I read these articles, but got confused. That's why I asked.
Good afternoon!
She became the proud owner of Jupiter, its interesting feature - the “tips” for focusing on the Nikon d700 work the other way around - in the viewfinder, the arrow near the cherished green point shows the wrong side to which you need to turn the focusing ring. Probably because Yuiter has a reverse focusing stroke - infinity to the right, not to the left. Or, alternatively, I came across a marriage ...
Probably the first :)
The arrow indicates NOT the direction of rotation of the focus ring on the lens (each lens can have its own), but the movement of the focus ring FORWARD or BACK (closer / further).
Thank you!
Not a marriage, it is so on other Jupiters 37a
Hello. I purchased a Jupiter 37 a lens, put it on a NIKON 3200 with an adapter kp-a / n, but there is no infinity !!!!! Help !!!! What should I do?
If a small shortage, then disassemble, align.
If it focuses no further than 6-7 meters, then do you use the KP-A / N, and not the M42-Nikon adapter?
Not further than 6-7 meters. In appearance, the exact CP-a / n as in the photo. I didn’t measure anything, I can’t say. So I’m thinking of trying another shank. Rather, from another seller. Perhaps the private owner is not clean at hand. Very disappointed with the result! It is not interesting to photograph on such a lens without infinity!
Which is remarkable. I tried this Jupiter on film ... I didn't like it ... The dynamic range is too narrow ... Compared to the cheapest manual nikkor. On the figure it seems to be good, but I would also like more contrast
Contrast drops dramatically in backlight or lateral illumination, regardless of the enlightenment version; lens hood is required! Under good lighting conditions and accurate focus, both sharpness and contrast and micro-contrast are good. But it's hard for them to shoot on a DSLR, you need to adapt. In general, it is an excellent budget telephoto portrait lens.
Nikon D7000
The dynamic range certainly does not depend on the lens.
The film has a huge dynamic range, you just need to understand the difference between the sensor and chemical emulsion. The digital camera sensor is afraid of overexposure, hence the clipping in the light (everything turns into white light, details are lost). Therefore, it is useful to not expose the exposure to a digit in order to preserve details in bright areas, and then extend the shadows in the editor.
With color negative film, the opposite is true: overexposures up to + 5- +6 ev (although overexposure of no more than +1.5 - + 2EV is recommended) does not knock out light, just the negative becomes denser, and this is not a problem when scanning. At the same time, overexposing the film gently pulls in the shadows. As a result, both light areas are in place (without clipping), and shadows are worked out. It looks like Nikon's D-lighting effect.
At FF - it is very good ... for a portrait - although I took it for myself for crops - there are cats to shoot on fences)
Glory, missed the letter J in the caption in the photo :)
And then the photo is good, you can see that you use the glass to the full.
And I see that Photoshop fully takes advantage.
The lens is really good! Was! About thirty years ago!
Now even CANON EF 75-300 mm f / 4-5.6 III allows you to get a picture that is at least the same, and more often even better.
You can, of course, convince yourself that Jupiter 37a is better, but it’s enough to take paired pictures to dispel dreams.
I'm not a troll, just comments are too laudatory, more like fanaticism, not a hobby.
"Jupiter 37-A takes second place in my vote for the best Soviet portrait lens at 85-135mm."
But wait, after all, in that vote, Jupiter comes first!
Yes, a long time ago)))
I really apologize for such an absurd question.
I'm going to buy Jupiter 37A, what do I need to attach to the Nikon 5300?
Shank should be included?
I do not understand suck in technology, but I fotu well :)
Someone is selling with a shank, someone is not.
Hello! I bought Jupiter 37A and kp-an, installed it on Nikon 3100, I shoot, there is sharpness in the viewfinder, there is no picture in the photo ... Who will say why, I did everything according to the instructions ...
Here here described in detail how to work with such lenses.
Thank you, tricky, but I will try to figure it out.
Nothing fancy. Set the M mode, select the ISO and shutter speed (but not longer than 1/100, i.e. 1/125, 1/160 and shorter) so that the frame will turn out to be normal in terms of exposure. Focus looking at the green dot through the viewfinder. The dot lit up and does not blink - we click on the button. Everything.
Hello! Thanks for the tip, Jupiter wrote out ... Tell me, is it possible to buy a shank for Nikon somewhere in Moscow, so as not to wait a month with Ali?
In Minsk, you can, but in Moscow even more so)))
On Nikon D3200 buying this adapter will be infinity? I bought a lens the other day, but I can’t use it yet
Yes
Arkady, what lens would you recommend for Canon 1200 - Jupiter 37A or Kaley
Arkady, what lens would you recommend for Canon 1200 - Jupiter 37a, or Kaleinar 5H? Or maybe other models of Jupiter?
Arkady, what lens would you recommend for Canon 1200 - Jupiter 37a, or Kalainar 5H? Or maybe other models of Jupiter?
take both. 100ue for a couple !!!. then you yourself will understand what is more pleasant for you.
on the Jupiter side, the diaphragm is multi-lobe, the drawing as a whole is more pleasant, more zoom (if necessary), price, more good copies.
kaleinar-sharpness, aperture ratio, jump (or on kenon it does not work !?).
many defective copies requiring revision or release.
if not sure, Jupiter.
Is it worth taking an adapter ring with a lens or better without a lens?
This lens does not need lens adapters. And on Kenon, and on Nikon, and even more so on mirrorless cameras, it is placed without problems with preserving infinity.
Yu-37A will be on Nikon and Canon without a lens, while maintaining infinity
Exclusively without a lens.
Thank you.
how to “marry” the Ju-37A and Samsung NX10 without screwing on the thread, but removing the shank “a”?
thank you
With the shaft removed, the idea is that the T2 mount is exposed, so you need to buy the T2-NX adapter (Samsung NX), because for Nikon they buy the T2-Nikon F, which replaces the Soviet KP-A / N, allowing the Nikons to focus at infinity, unlike simple adapter ring M42-Nikon. In China, I ordered myself a T2-Nikon F for $ 2,5, until I came, I can not appreciate it.
Hello. There is a nikon d3400. There is this lens. If you fasten it to the camera using the cp a / n without a chip, will the camera signal focusing with a green dot in the viewfinder? Thank you in advance. (I apologize if there were such questions, but could not find the exact answer.)
Be.
https://radojuva.com/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/#how-focusing
Guys, please help !!! And then the melancholy is complete.
I have Nikon d3200. Just took the layman and a complete shot. I took a Jupiter 37a lens for it with a chip adapter, and the camera refuses to take pictures, even if you kill yourself. Put the manual mode. The technical support of the company that sold the lens advises setting the mode in the settings - no lens. So it is not! And turn off autofocus, I also can't find it in the menu: (((
You are welcome!!! New Years is soon :(((
By the way, everyone with the Coming !!!!
There may be several options.
1. The new camera will not take the first shot without a native lens.
2. The chip is configured to confirm autofocus, it will take pictures only with full confidence in the focus. Slightly weaken the grip AF-C mode.
3. Through the INFO button you can enter and set the MF mode, this should help
4. It may happen that with a chip it will only shoot in M mode.
If all else fails, just pick the chip and shoot in M mode.
Buy an autofocus lens after all. Though Yongnuo 50mm under Nikon. It is fast and cheap - you won't regret it. It is now possible on Ali for 4,5-5 thousand rubles. take delivery. You will like the work of the apparatus and the result. And then, when you master a little shooting, you will return to Jupiter. After all, Jupiter 37A is not for a beginner (you need to correctly set the shutter speed, exclude shake, select the light and set the ISO - although these are not the most difficult things, a beginner needs to get to all this). Yes, and shooting with Jupiter at 3200 (on the crop) is not possible everywhere and not everything, but Yongnuo is quite versatile and good.
If in M mode the camera takes pictures (the shutter clicks), but a black frame is obtained, then turn the dial for a slower shutter speed (for example, instead of 1/120, set 1/15) - just so that at least some image appears. If this appears, write, we will explain what to do next.
! be sure to read: http://64bita.ru/
I made a test for myself Jupiter-37A and Sigma 70-300 APO DG (without stabilizer) at 135 mm. For most cases, Sigma is much more convenient, although it hardly discovered America here. The difference in aperture ratio is not big - 3,5 for Jupiter, 4,5 for Sigma at 135 mm. Even on the open, in my case, Sigma is much clearer, which is an advantage for many tasks. The softness of Jupiter is probably better for portraits, I have not yet tested people on shooting, but if it's just a photo walk, Sigma with autofocus (under a screwdriver), zoom, normal operation in the back, wins on all fronts with better clarity.
It’s getting warmer, I’ll take one of my friends for a portrait test, then it will be clear what to do next with Jupiter. To sell or leave in a backpack, if it is better to take a portrait on a photo walk than with a simple, non-portrait Sigma can be done.
It can be understood that if Jupiter is bought in addition to whale 18-55, after all 135 mm and 55 mm is a big difference, or if for whale 18-135 (140), where at the extreme 135 mm the diaphragm is 5,6. Or if finances are singing romances too at a certain moment. For example, Sigma 70-300 cost me 1800 UAH a year ago (now prices are about the same), and I recently bought Jupiter 37-A for 370 UAH, plus 70 UAH for the T2-Nikon adapter. The difference in price by 4 times is quite noticeable.
In principle, when it comes to such amounts for which you can buy such lenses, even if you have money to buy something more convenient, but more expensive, you can buy for a change, it’s not a pity. Then, if you don’t like it or don’t find a use, you can resell it, you won’t lose much, even if you sell it cheaper, or donate it to someone at all.
Good day. Here I have a Sony Alpha Kit 58 camera, I also have a Jupiter 37a lens and there is also an adapter, but not KP-A / N, but a T-ring for Sony Alpha cameras (Minolta A) (http://www.astronom.ru/product/t-kolco-dlya-kamer-sony-alpha-minolta-af.html) I bought an adapter for a telescope, but this lens also fits perfectly on it and mounts to the camera! But, as it seems to me with this idyll, there is no focus on infinity, which I really need! That's why? In appearance, my adapter is very similar to the KP-A / N adapter, but something is clearly focused. What can I do, will I have to buy another adapter or can I come up with something?
You can make it shorter. The T-ring is like a 55 mm flange distance, but I don't remember how much the A mount has ...
Shank KP a / n is only suitable for Nikon. Changing the native shank of the Yu-37 with M42 thread at the output to the shank of the gearbox a / n, the lens is placed on the Nikon camera and does not have problems with focusing. For Sony, most likely you do not need to change the shank, leave the native one under M37 on the Yu-42, and buy the M42-Sony alpha adapter.
Came from China T2 shank - Nikon F, paid less than $ 3, waited about 2 weeks. Yes, it is slightly wider than the native KP-A / N, but after screwing in the screws it was fixed quite firmly, there are no backlashes. There is infinity.
There is only one nuance, there is a slight backlash after joining the camera. It does not affect work, but nonetheless. I checked on two different cameras, there is a backlash on both.
Conclusion: a completely normal, cheap and easily accessible alternative to the native shank under Nikon.
PS I shot it with this lens, it's still good for portraits. If in the presence of 135mm it is closed only with a dark zoom, it makes sense to take the Yu-37A as inexpensive, it cost me $ 16, considering the purchase of a shank, a very worthy portrait. If you go out to the photowalk of all sorts of things, autofocus zoom is preferable, but you can also take along an additional U-37A, in case you want to shoot a good portrait against an interesting background.
Hello, I purchased the 37a lens and screwed it onto the canon 550d and it turned out that the divisions are shifted from the center, will this affect something?
They are almost always the case. If you don’t like it, you can loosen the three screws of the lens with a screwdriver and turn it a little.
Thank you!
Hello. As I understand it - chasing the MC version is not desirable as I understand it? (they say the spots come out). Take the usual one and rejoice? :)
The MS version is slightly better than the usual one (In cloudy weather and in the shadows it gives slightly more contrasting blue and green shades, it also glare a little less in frontal light, but not sideways.), I do not observe problems with enlightenment, it doesn’t cover anything. It makes sense to take MS if the price is not higher than 20-25% of the price of the regular version.
The MSK simply does not justify the higher price, up to the level of the modern Nikkor 18-105 zoom in contrast and glare, the MS U37 is very far away. Photo below
http://joxi.ru/82Qe103I1Bj3b2
http://joxi.ru/krDqWJeU0DEdRm
http://joxi.ru/nAyYDk3SXEYkeA
Good afternoon.
a little confused with infinity on Jupiter.
Nikon D5100, Jupiter 37A (the year of issue is unknown, remained a "legacy"), adapter М42-Nikon, with a lens (it was taken as a universal one for Helios, Mir). experimented mainly for macro (via 2 sets of macro rings ...)
the question is - what does it mean to be infinity or not and what does the presence of a lens on the adapter have to do with it?
since the lens is manual - it was very bad with sharpness in normal shooting :) so I stopped experimenting for a while.
Lenses with a M42 mounting thread cannot focus beyond a certain value (including to infinity) when used on Nikon cameras with a simple adapter (without a lens). The lens is needed for compensation, which allows you to focus on long distances (including infinity).
For the Yu-37A lens and Nikon cameras, it is logical to use the correct KP-A / N shank (without a lens, while preserving infinity).
but how to determine - on any KP-A / N shank (without a lens) or are there any other parameters? I don't mind a place at home, but buying it and putting it back on the shelf will be a shame ...
and then immediately the question is - for HELIOS-44-2 2/58 and nikon - will my adapter also be useless?
and there is Mir-1Sh 2.8 / 37 :)
both of them are interesting to me from the point of view of boke of evening lights ... moreover, figured boke ... their diaphragm allows you to play with complex patterns for boke ... (closer to objects and larger in size, the image is obtained than with diaphragms 3,5 ...)
and maybe it seems to me, but here we get a contradiction ...
“Lenses with mounting thread M42 cannot focus beyond a certain value (including infinity) when used on Nikon cameras with a simple adapter (no lens)” - quote :)
but I have an adapter with a lens ...
The M42 - Nikon adapter with a lens will allow focusing to infinity, however, at the expense of a slight deterioration in sharpness and contrast, especially at open apertures.
For Helios and the World, a tolerable option is needed if infinity is needed.
Jupiter 37A can also be mounted on the M42-Nikon adapter without using the KP-A \ N shank. Infinity will be, but it will be a little lather in the open. If you remove the lens from the M42-Nikon adapter, the image quality will return to normal, but there will be no infinity - a maximum of 6-7 meters (for portraits is quite enough)
KP-A / N is a shank only for Jupiter 37A and some other lenses, the name of which contains the suffix A. Unlike the adapter, which is simply screwed onto the thread, the KP-A \ N shank is installed INSTEAD of the existing shank on the M42 and is installed with using a screwdriver and bolts. There will be infinity, the quality of the picture does not deteriorate, but such a shank is not suitable for Helios 44-2 and Mir 1M.
Thank you so much. with infinity it became clear ...
And if infinity is not needed, but a portrait lens is needed, should such an adapter work normally for Helios and Mir? (judging by the articles on Radojiv?)
https://radojuva.com/2013/03/obzor-mir-2-8-37/
https://radojuva.com/2011/12/gelios-44m-2-review/
I still want to play with curly boke lights ...
of course, with infinity on Jupiter we will think ...
while I will try to play with Helios and the world on bokeh lights
Dmitry explained to you in great detail. An adapter with a lens is not needed, another shank is needed (KP-A / N); like this:
http://fotoselling.ru/static/img/0000/0002/9935/29935602.hji9wqcdnd.jpg
Another thing is that Jupiter-37 at infinity ... is simply not needed.
For infinity it may not be needed, but up to 6 meters for 135mm on the crop is very small, so it's better to have a native shank or its cheap Chinese analogue T2 - Nikon F. I was offered a native one for 400 UAH, while the lens itself cost me less. I bought it in China for about 75 UAH, it works well with it.
I will leave an adapter with a lens for Helios and for the World.
but about Jupiter - I will still think. because when estimating the shank, it will no longer be possible to just add an macro ring. only if you twist everything back
Good hour, comrades. I read the comments and see a lot of people who have problems installing it on modern windows (Nikon crop in particular). Duck, don’t worry and buy a T2-nikon f tail (aliexpress 250r) to it, it will hang out, buy genuine screws (3), there will be no infinity with it, but this is solved in 5-10 minutes of working with handles. It is very easy to adjust, you only need to turn the lens block inside the main body of the lens one clockwise by unscrewing the pre-fixing plates.
I had infinity with a shank bought on Ali. No manual finishing was required. In addition, the screws can come from the native shank.
The same is done with plain m42-nikon
Thank you!