After thousands of shots taken with a whale lens, and after viewing millions of images on the Internet, shot with high-aperture optics, sometimes you just want to try something new and fast. After the 'boring' stock lens that usually comes with a camera, the tiny Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) is a great addition.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Note that I call this the MKIII because it is the third version of the Nikon Nikkor AF 50mm F1.8 class lens. On the net it is usually called simply - Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF, any representation of letters is allowed :).
All Nikon 50 / 1.8 Autofocus Lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (first version, MKI) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1990. It is easy to distinguish by a window with a focusing distance and a narrow plastic focus ring. There are two subversions that are no different:
- MKI first subversion. Weighing 210 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From September 1986 to March 1987. Serial numbers start at 2
- MKI second version. Weighing 165 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the absence of a screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From 1987 to 1990. Serial numbers start at 3.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (second version, MKII, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was produced in Japan and China. The MK II version was produced from 1990 to 2001. There are three subversions that are no different:
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 2002 to this day. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as '1.8 G'-version or '1.8 AF-S' version) - the lens has been produced since 2011, all lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition (fifth version, MKVbetter known as version 'Special Edition' or 'SE' or version for the camera with a retro design of the case Nikon Df) - the lens has been available since the fall of 2013. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm 1: 1.8 S, from summer 2018, lens for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount... Diagram of 12 elements in 9 groups, 2 ED, 2 ASP.
Details on the lineup of fifty dollars from Nikon can be found in my article 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
If you want to feel what aperture maneuver for real - Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor will help you very quickly. In this review, I will try to cover the specifics of using the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in real life.
As they say, the wizard casts a magic wand, and the sorceress uses a magic hole - it is the 'hole' (relative aperture of the lens) that attracts most of all in this lens, the maximum value of which is 1: 1.8. A lens with such a focal length and such aperture suggests that when focusing at close distances it will be easy to get 'bokeh effect'and blur the foreground and background.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Main technical characteristics of Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor 2860907 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 52 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Body materials | Focusing ring plastic, rubberized on the outside. The outer case is made of plastic. Metal mount. The diaphragm control ring is plastic. |
| Focal length | 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm, EGF for Nikon CX cameras is 135 mm |
| Diagonal viewing angles | 46 ° for FX cameras, 31 ° for DX cameras |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens without the ability to change the focal length) |
| Designed by | for film and digital cameras Nikon FX / Nikon DX. When the lens exited the Nikon digital cameras, only the cropped Nikon D1s were present, D1h, D1x и D100. |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 non-rounded petals |
| Tags | marking on the focus ring with the focusing distance in meters and feet, depth of field scale for F / 22 and F / 11. Label for working in the infrared spectrum (white dot near the depth of field scale). Ring with aperture values, there are marks for F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. |
| Diaphragm | from f / 1.8 to f / 22. The lens has an aperture ring (Non-G - lens type) |
| MDF (minimum focusing distance) | 0.45 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 6.6 |
| The weight | 155 g |
| Optical design | 6 elements in 5 groups. The lens does not use special optical elements. The image with the optical circuit is clickable. Lens version MKI и MKII use the same optical design. |
| Lens hood | Rubber hood Nikon HR-2. The lens hood is not included in the scope of delivery; the lens hood is screwed into the thread under the filters. |
| Transportation | Using the CL-S1 or CL-0715 soft case or using the CL-30S case. A case or case is not supplied and must be purchased separately. During transport, use standard rear (e.g. LF-1 or LF-4) and front (e.g. LC-52) covers. Usually sold with a white plastic translucent back cover. and black front. The lens is sold in a classic Nikon golden box (there are several modifications of the box design). |
| Period | from February 2002 to the present |
| Manufacturer country | Made in China (all MKIII lenses are made in China) |
| Instructions | See |
| 3D view | See |
| Price |
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - very lightweight lens. It has the smallest weight in its class. Due to its very small size and low weight, you can always take it with you. And finding a 52 mm filter is as easy as shelling pears. I really love hikesand every extra 100 grams of weight is a serious challenge, so instead of some heavy zoom lens I often use the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor smallest autofocus lens from Nikon that I have ever seen. There is a joke that it is in the pocket of every photographer. Just a joke, but I often keep Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in my case, it takes up little space and I don't mind losing it.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) fast fixed lens from Nikon. It is hard to find something cheaper. The lens will allow you to get the necessary experience for a little money when working with high-aperture optics, including fixed lenses. I almost always recommend the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF as the first optional lens.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII), microprocessor contacts, rear view
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF can open the aperture up to f / 1.8. For example, an aperture ratio of 1: 1.8 is about 10 times morethan 1: 5.6. For example, class lenses 18-55/3.5-5.6 with the same focal length have 1: 5.6. F / 1.8 will allow you to shoot at low ISOs in low light conditions, use short excerpts when shooting handheld, and will also allow better control GRIP.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) and Minolta MC Rokkor-PF 1: 1.4 f = 58mm
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is very affordable lens, it is easy to find it in any store in any city. A huge number of copies of this model were released. Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF lenses are available with 2002 to this day.
It's a shame, but all Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) lenses are made in China. And here are his predecessors Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK I) и Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK II) produced in Japan.
The lens has fast auto focus system - on my camera, the lens focuses from 45 cm to infinity and back in one second. The most interesting thing is that his motorized brother Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical has exactly the same focusing speed. I tested both lenses together. Plus, the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF focuses even faster than the flagship half a ruble - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G.
Attention: the fact that the small Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF has no built-in focus motor has nothing to do with focusing speed.
It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs
- D3, D3x, D3s, D4, D4s, D5, D6
- Df
- D50, D70, D70s, D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200,D7500
- D100, D200, D300, D300s,D500
- D600, D610, D750, D780
- D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850
- Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 ProS3 Pro UVIR, S5 ProIS Pro
- Kodak DCS PRO 14n, DCS Pro SLR/n
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:
Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.
You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) while focusing at the minimum focusing distance (trunk extended as far as possible)
Attention: the lens has a manual aperture ring. To be able to control the value aperture from camera or for automatic installation aperture on modern central control valves, you need to turn the control ring to the F / 22 value (the value is colored in orange) and fix it with a special lever, which is located to the right of the marks aperture. If this is not done, then on a number of cameras, the display will display an error - 'fEE' (ring is not installed aperture) Some cameras having diaphragm rheostatallow you to control the diaphragm with this ring aperturebut only in metering modes exposure 'M' and 'A'. You can read more about this issue in the section on Non-G Lenses. Ring aperture rotates with clicks, the values F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 are plotted on it, it is impossible to establish an intermediate value between pairs of numbers. This ring is useful, for example, for reverse macro shot.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has focus distance scale. The scale is available in meters and feet, it is very nice and useful. For example, you don’t need to think in which direction the focus ring is rotated, just look at the lens for this. For example, a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor It has neither a focus distance scale, nor a depth of field scale, nor an aperture control ring.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) with front and rear cover
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has the ability to work on full frame the camera and is a Nikon FX type lens. On the Nikon DX cameras his EGF will be 75 mm. More details about FR and EGF in the section about 'crop factor'.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has bayonet mount metal back... This is great news as many people think that the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF is very lightweight and is made out of plastic.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF on camera Sony a7. The aperture control ring allows you to use the lens on any camera through the appropriate adapter.
When focusing front lens does not rotate. This allows you to easily use different filters and not worry about their shifts when focusing. The focus ring is rubberized and rotates 120 degrees, but in order to slightly shift the focus ring, you need to 'tear it off'. At the same time, smooth focusing is lost, since after such a “jerk” the ring flies over the desired value. The effort is not so great, but when working in macro mode, where, due to the very small depth of field, each degree of rotation plays a huge role, this “slightly twitchy” method of focusing greatly inflates the nerves during manual focusing. There is a similar effect on many other lenses, most pronounced on the 'dark' Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical. Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor users who always shoot with autofocus will most likely never notice the effect described above. Also, it is worth noting that the previous version of this lens, namely Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MIJ version)had no such problem.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor Lens Tags
Lens disadvantages:
- When using Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF lens on open apertures it is very difficult to achieve a sharp image... True, I noticed such a feature that sharpness disappears at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8. At f / 2.8-f / 8.0 aperture, the lens becomes very sharp.
- Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF pretty makes a lot of noise during auto focus. When you miss focusing, the lens buzzes annoyingly, and the camera motor scares small insects and nervous people, betraying the photographer in a quiet environment. Noisy autofocus has a very negative effect when shooting video.
- Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF does not have a built-in focus motor. As mentioned at the beginning of the article, it can be used with autofocus only on cameras with a focusing motor.
- There is no hood included with the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF. The hood is attached by screwing it into the filter thread.
- When focusing, the entire lens block moves, while the 'lens trunk' extends forward.
- On the lens no focus mode switch, the transition to manual focus and back is carried out by means of a switch on the camera, which is located near the camera mount.
- The lens has a total of 7 non-rounded aperture blades that create 'nuts' in the out-of-focus area.
- The Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is well built, but over time, a slight play in the focusing ring appears. If you shake the lens slightly, you can hear the tapping of the focusing ring. This is not a problem, just a small specific flaw.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor lens
With all the pros and cons Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - an indispensable lens in all situations. For me personally, it is inconvenient in that the auto focus on my camera does not work Nikon D40which I often use. On the open aperture, the sharpness zone is very small and it’s very difficult to manually enter it.
Nikon aperture blades 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
All photos in the gallery below are shot on a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D AF and full-frame camera. Nikon D700 FX, photo without processing, only the size is reduced to 3MP and data from EXIF.
The gallery below shows photos from Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) without treatment:
Jpeg source photos download from this link (1.09 Gb). The archive is 453 photosfilmed in 6 months on Nikon D70. Oddly enough, but I enjoy working with this old and very cheap Nikon D70 both old and very cheap Nikon 50 / 1.8... The camera cost me $ 50, the lens - $ 90. On a 6 MP CCD sensor, even at F / 1.8, acceptable sharpness is obtained. I did not regret the shutter and filmed as much as my soul wanted. Photos from this collection are used by me in an article about choosing a Nikon DSLR. Examples of photos with processing can be found in my gallery here. You can see more examples of photos on Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) in the review Nikon D300 и Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro и S1 Pro.
And also this link You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Video review
Short video review Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) you can see on my channel here.
Fifties Recommendations for Nikon Cameras
A list of all-all Nikon Nikkor autofocus lenses, as well as my recommendations for choosing the best option for specific tasks, can be found in the 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
My experience
I really love the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. This is my first autofocus fast aperture lens, which I used in a wide range of photo tasks and spent a huge number of shoots with it.
As a result, Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is:
- The easiest original full frame fixed focus lens with auto focus
- The cheapest Original fast prime lens with auto focus
- Most affordable Original fast prime lens with fixed focal length and auto focus in the secondary market. Countless instances of it have been released.
- The most compact original fixed focus lens with auto focus
- One of the fastest original autofocus lenses for FX and DX cameras (brighter only ten lenses with f / 1.4Unfortunately Nikon does not release aperture optics for FX cameras with support for autofocus)
- One of the best price / quality lenses
A huge number of lenses from Nikon (hundreds of models) passed through my hands. In my personal opinion, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is one of the best lenses of all time from Nikon.
Lens prices
Real prices for the lens in popular online stores can see here, or in the price block below:
Also, this lens can be found on:
- Look at Power outlet
- Look in Connected
- Look at E-Catalog
- Look at Magazilla
- Look at M.Video
- Look at Ozone
- Look at Nadavi
- Euroset
- On the AliExpress
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor on camera Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro
Results:
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - great lens for the money... Due to its compactness and lightness, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) can always be taken with you. It can produce very sharp images with slightly rough bokeh. On DX cameras it can be used as a conventional portrait lens. The lens' only serious drawback is the lack of sharpness at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8.
UPDATE: in 2016, a Chinese lens appeared, based on the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor optical circuit (optically no worse) and with an integrated focus motor. See YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 review (YN50mm F1.8N).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello Arkady
Please tell me, in your shortcomings (1) it is written: “it is very difficult to achieve a sharp image at open apertures. However, I noticed that the sharpness disappears mainly when focusing on objects that are more than 3-4 meters from the camera ”
- that is, at "portrait" distances up to 3-4m. Is it still sharp enough?
I also noticed that on the open aperture, sharpness can hardly be achieved) Everything is soft, vanilla)))
Photo at Nikon D90 f \ 3.5 1 \ 250
It is sharp from 2,8 ... If it was only this, then I think there would be no problems ... The nastiest quality of this lens is a hard drawing, also mediocre color rendition and no bokeh ... This lens was my first fix ... Until I bought a 35- 70 \ 2,8D, did not understand that this one is just awful ...
I agree! A rare Mr. but this lens. I bought in due time on the advice of couch experts.
In terms of picture quality compared to the 35th, it’s generally a lack of lens.
couch experts cannot have a screwdriver, so they could not advise him :)
Are you sure? The girl's soft face, because it is out of focus. The distance is small, the depth of field is narrow, the strand of hair on the left and part of the tulle is in focus. Take a closer look ...
How does it feel compared to the G version?
I have an idea to sell 50mm g, take this one and 70-210 ...
Among fifty kopecks, 50 \ 1,4D is good ... If you need a fix, I advise it, of course, if there is a motor in the carcass ... In the presence of uncertainty, it is still 35-70 \ 2,8D ...
As for 1.4, there is definitely not, because even on G the sharpness on the open ones is lame or I didn’t get the most successful instance, although I checked the purchase on the scale for back and front focus
More precisely, softit and specifically
You just need to learn how to use software ... In portraits it is good, extreme sharpness is needed in macro photography ...
1,4G becomes sharp at 2,8, but 2,2 can already be used. However, with 1,4D the situation is almost the same (at least with the instance that I visited)
The L version is softer in bokeh and pattern. IMHO - I would choose it if I bother with a half on a crop.
The G version has higher contrast and sharpness / resolution, i.e. the picture is not as blurry as the old version. bokeshka is also much better than “nuts” - the G version is basically better than the D version.
it's funny to watch you follow me on all topics.
Volodya, why do you bother with this? Remember, even the fastest fixes have an open hole rarely working ...
hole 2. stands on D310. focusing with my hands, not worried. nra….
dawn
The question is for the owners, how often does he miss the lens with sharpness? I shoot mainly on f / 4, on 3 out of 5 photos there is focus on the object, but the photos are not sharp, it is especially noticeable in the eyes in portraits
It's not about the lens, but about the device itself, the command to stop the focusing motor is given by the carcass processor, so the carcass and the lens are returned for alignment ...
I have no problems, D90 carcass and examples of photos, focus in the top ten ...
Where is there no problem? There is no sharpness in this photo, there is something contour, especially at ISO 640 ...
The sharpness should be like this (photo from Sigma):
You are comparing glasses of different classes, this is the cheapest half made in Cina, here is a 100% crop with RAW with ordinary conversion ...
Do you understand what ISO is? In your photo it is 640 ... With such an ISO, sharpness cannot be by definition, instead there will be only noise.
Well, regarding the classes of lenses - any fixed lens is ALWAYS sharper than any zoom, no matter what class the zoom is. Those. your fifty dollar shot should be perfect in sharpness, flawless. Why this is not - explained above.
I forgot to say, there is a photo from the Sigma 17-50mm f / 2.8, and this is far from a fix ...
I understand what ISO is, I have already seen your shot on the Internet more than once, but here it was about the fact that the focus “misses the object, especially in the eyes”. In my photos, I focused on the eyes, this can be seen in the image ... The price of my fifty dollars is 4000-5000 thousand, and yours is 26 900 rubles on fotosklad.ru, and on other sites no less, why is there such a difference in cost, you will not tell ?
> The price of my fifty dollars is 4000-5000 thousand
Not true - 6 843 rubles.
And then, sharpness and price are different evaluation criteria, the sharpness in the given photo is even less than in the previous ones. There is no detail at all.
Here are the details from the cheap Nikkor 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX
And my 35-ka lathers ... I don’t give up adjusting - I don’t believe in the local rugged all-powerful.
Fix not fix? Has no idea, but all the same ... NOT FIX! Typical ZOOM !!! Is that sharper than my whale 18-105 mm.
Poor girl, she still does not know what a terrible future awaits her, because no one loves fat.
Please tell me I have a D300s camera. I want to buy 50mm 1.8g which advise specifically?
Like this - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Thanks Arkady!
The 50mm 1.8g is a very specific lens, not a series. It comes in only one model (version). What advice would you like to receive?
There is another 1.8g special edition, details here https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/12/all-50mm-lens-nikon-together/
So they are only outwardly different. It's like asking which lens to buy - black or silver.
I used a vaunted Sigma50, 1,8f lens, my first fifty dollars, I took it for Nikon D90. In principle, a good lens, I took it for about three years. But he had an increasing focus problem. Often missed. The farther, the worse. I sold it and bought a Nikkor 50, f1,8, which costs five times cheaper than Sigma. I was amazed at the quality of the photo. Firstly, the sharpness is much stronger, secondly, the bokeh, as for me is much more interesting, thirdly, the focus is stable, without misses. The lack of a stub is not felt at all. In terms of sharpness, he reminded me of Helios44, which I have in my arsenal.
nikkor af 50mm f / 1.8d + nikon d200
Please help the "teapot" to figure it out. I reread 3 articles here and finally got confused.
I have a Nikon 3200 with an 18-105 crop lens. I want to buy a lens for a portrait. I was advised to 50 mm 1.8 g, then I saw in one of the articles that you don't need to overpay and take an older 1.8 d model, after reading about it I realized that it does not fit, because. it is not for a camera without a “screwdriver”, in the end I went 35 mm. And I didn't understand. Is it possible to use 35 mm for a portrait, you need a beautiful side. And in general, what budget lens to buy? 1.8 some or 35. Please help.
Portrait can be shot at any focal length. You have a zoom, remove the growth, belt, etc. portraits at 35, 50 and 85mm and look at which focal result you like more and with what focal length you personally prefer to work. At 35 mm there will be the most geometric distortions and the weakest bokeh. Bokeh will be better with a lens of 85 1,8G and less geometric distortion, but the price is the highest of the three 35, 50 and 85 1,8G.
If we talk only about these two lenses, then for portraits 50 mm is preferable.
Fifty - only suitable for half-length / full-length portraits. For chest and larger ones, you need something in the range of 70mm to 150mm.
I do not have such bokeh .. D7000
Can this lens have a back, front focus?
I can't understand why my eyes are “out of focus” even at short shutter speeds when enlarging? camera Nikon D90
I have a problem with it. When you try to automatically focus on the d100, the lens twitches and there is no autofocus, you have to switch to the manual. There is a screwdriver, and on the lens it rotates.
Maybe it's in the camera, maybe there the screwdriver has worn out for so many years. Do other screwdriver glasses work without problems? If so, then maybe glass is the case. It is worth trying on another carcass to be sure.
Good evening! First of all, thanks for the site, I draw all the knowledge from it)
Please tell me, I have a lens from this review, when installing on the d700 I get a black strip in the photo at the top, as if there is a lens for a DX camera, in DX mode everything is ok. What could it be?
the black bar at the top is a mirror that clings, for some reason, to the lens, perhaps the lens was disassembled and assembled incorrectly
Yuri, thanks for the answer. Will it turn out either for repair or a new one?
that neme for scho :). It turns out like this. If a mirror clings to a native lens, this is not normal.
Tell me how good the lens is. I recently took a DSLR and read it and I want to find the ideal, how close it is, I want to take the moon off the ground
nothing happens. but you can download ready-made photos from the Internet in high resolution
Everyone wants to shoot the moon at first. They buy or find the most affordable telephoto lens 200 or 300 mm, take a couple of shots, make sure that they can’t take the moon more beautiful than they already have on the Internet and drop this thing. But to take a beautiful landscape with the moon in the frame is a completely different matter.
I support. Pampering all these 250-300mm.
You buy a spyglass and through it with your smartphone you shoot the moon awesomely, as in this example: the Yukon 50x tube and the Samsung S4 smartphone. Such a pipe will cost 50-60 cu, and the lens, in order to photograph the Moon, does not need 200 mm, or even 300 mm, but from 1000 mm, and this is a completely different price category. And you can buy Yukon 100x for 250 cu and shoot the super buzzing moon, as well as the sun at sunset and sunrise.
Hm. Well, you can’t say that you got a high-quality picture.
To take such a picture on a DSLR, yes it will be better, but you need a good lens of at least 1000 mm focal length. You will not get such a Moon at 300-500 mm, and the question is, does a person need a 1000 mm lens just for the sake of rare photographs of the Moon? No, it is not needed. By the way, if you wish, you can buy a telescope with a removable eyepiece and use the T-adapter to photograph through it on a DSLR. I have a telescope without an interchangeable eyepiece, so unfortunately I cannot test it in the “tube + SLR” mode.
Here's another photo of the moon smartphone + spyglass
PS And here is a simpler option - a smartphone + 10x monocular (when shooting, a small digital zoom is added to remove vignetting). This option corresponds (not in quality, the smartphone is still not a DSLR, but in terms of the degree of approach of the moon) shooting with a camera with a lens of about 250 mm
But shooting with such “small” focal lengths the Moon will not work at night, since it is very bright and there will be just a large, but white spot. Either a filter will be needed, or photographing in the evening twilight or before dawn. 50x without any problems, even at night, even at dusk. During the full moon, the craters will not be visible, for craters you need to shoot before or after the full moon, then the side illuminated by the sun will be slightly overexposed, but the craters will be clearly visible from the other side.
I’m not talking about how to achieve such a viewing angle in pictures at the DSLR, but about why, in principle, pictures of this quality are needed.
Even with resize to 1mpx, a serious technical marriage of pictures is visible. Only in bw + - it was possible to mask them with very harsh processing.
For home browsing and social networks, which are usually, especially Instagram, browsing through the small screens of smartphones.
Well, I’m xs, the chromatic aberration of the first picture is visible on the 200-200 preview, which means they will be visible even on my 320n240 phone screen.
Everything is evaluated from a different point, so returning to the original, the question is what you can get for a certain amount. There is no point in evaluating an ordinary Lanos from the point of view of its weak possibilities of participating in a professional rally race, but it makes sense to evaluate it only among equivalent analogues. In the examples I have given, there are problems that would not be, use a SLR camera with a lens of 1000 mm or higher instead of a regular phone, and then it should be a good, which means a very expensive lens, and not an ordinary 200-300 mm with several adapters - magnifiers, or to take a reflex through a telescope of an expensive series, but these are all completely different price categories.
But I agree with the question in the air: why? And then everyone can answer for himself. If someone sees a point for himself, he uses an option that will cost quite inexpensively (relative to comparison with other options), or he will spend a much larger amount, or not spend for not having one or banal lack of desire to spend a considerable amount for the sake of far from everyday super-long-focus the lens.
I agree about the money, and about the Lanos, it just turns out that you still drove along the highway on the Lanos and say: look, I’ve reached the end!
I was just a little embarrassed by your words about “shooting the awesome Moon, sleeping the super awesome Moon”, applicable to the attached picture.
In general, it seems to me that a modern crop of 24-30mpx with the same 200-300 on a slightly covered aperture, taking into account the fact that you can cut out the central part of the picture 1-4mpx, and even process it, will give a better result. At least HA will not be, and the microcontrast is better.
I have not tried it myself: there is no modern crop, nor a lens longer than 40mm.
That was a little irony ... As for the multi-pixel crop, it will not work exactly as in the example with the 50x pipe. Because I compared the picture (in terms of the proportions of the moon and craters, and what is important, their clarity) from a DSLR with a system of lenses and magnifiers with a total focal length of 1200 mm, and it turned out the same, which means that 200-300 mm will not be extended in any way. But again, the taste and color, and everyone's desires are different. I would like to convey the meaning of what I would like to convey, that if for everyday use you do not need a lens that captures the moon like that, then why buy it? If you want the moon, here's an option, buy a telescope or a telescope, sometimes take pictures of the moon and planets through them, spy on your neighbors, observe nature - they will come in handy besides the “photo of the moon”.
I do not see aliens in the picture of the lunar bases)
You do not understand what the moon has to do with it. Elena took a SLR, for something, and is looking for her ideal (under the moon). And since most men are on the site, she must be at the address.
At least from what she wrote, as I understand it.
On this topic. I got this lens. I cannot compare with other analogs, since I did not use it. Although there was Arsat 50/2, for technical reasons it was necessary to replace it with a Nikon one. It is not entirely correct to compare these lenses, although they are both fixed-fifty-fifty, it is still Nikkor and autofus, and exposure metering are definitely easier for a beginner (but, again, I changed the lens, not because it is easier, but purely for technical reasons) ... Arsat's photos are quite decent.
The only thing that can be noted is that on Nikkore the focusing scale shows up to 3 meters and then immediately infinity, and on Arsat - up to 10 meters, and then infinity. Maybe it has some significant meaning, if yes, write, because 3 and 10 meters is quite a big difference. Do I understand correctly that Arsat can focus on an object up to 10 m and beautifully blur the background behind it, and this Nikkor - only up to 3 m?
No wrong. DOF at aperture 2.0 and focusing distances of 3 and 10 m. They have the same difference can be in the helicoid constituent and, accordingly, the scale marking.
https://youtu.be/JaiFTjSTwlQ
Arkady, hello! He was engaged in amateur photography in his school years, when he retired, he decided, in his spare time, to remember what he used to, bought a used Nikon D-90 camera with an 18-105mm lens, wanted a fifty-fifty Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f / 1,8D, I looked after a used one in another city, but my son doesn’t advise, they say it’s necessary, when buying it it will look at its carcass, it won’t get there or it’s impossible to buy it. Tell me? Sorry, maybe I explained in a rustic way?
Here's how lucky. Usually all is well and everything falls :)
Thank! Happy New Year 2017! I will learn a new one.
Hello! Advise, I have a Nikon D-90 Carcass with kit. 18-105, as well as a Nikkor 55-200 f / 4-5,6ED DX VR zomm, their focal lengths are combined or overlapping, is it not more reasonable to change them to one universal, but it comes down to money or trying to exchange, a chore too, or leave everything as it is, what do you say about my lenses and what do you advise, Thank you in advance.
Hello Arkady! Did I understand correctly that the first versions of the Nn 50mm f / 1,8 lens manufactured in Japan and then in China (before the third version) are compatible with my Nn d 90 camera and will focus from its screwdriver?
Yes, all lenses marked AF, AF-S, AF-I (except AF-P) will focus on your Nikon D90 camera.
Arkady, thanks for the answer on the compatibility of 50mm f / 1,8 with Nikon D-90, but what is your opinion on the issue from 28-12 about my lenses: 18-105 and 55-200? Leave both or replace with something else? Thanks in advance. With respect. Petrovich.
Arkady, hello, and if it was possible to take a used Nikon AF-S 50mm f / 1,8d lens (China) and Nikon AF 50mm f / 1,8 made in Japan in excellent condition, which is better to buy, a little Japanese (not significantly) more expensive?
AF-S 50mm f / 1,8d? Are you seriously?
If this is about G, then either it is very cheap, or D is expensive.
Sorry, who answered, if it's not G, but Deshka (D) third generation) Nashol AF-S 50 mm f / 1,8 d and Nikon NikkorAF 50 mm f / 1,8 - made in Japan, both b / they say they are in excellent condition, now I think what to take a newer d-eshka, China or older, but Japs, who will tell you?
Once again, look at the name of the lens, af-s 1,8 d does not happen.
Yes, excuse me, Nikon AF 50mm f / 1,8d without - "S" What would you advise, buy it, it is newer or take Nikon Nikkor AF 50mm f / 1,8 made in Japan, older, but they say it is in excellent condition , little used, or if I have a whale. 18-105 and 55-200, then 50mm may not be needed, since I mainly shoot landscapes, street parties, grandchildren and friends, street and in the apartment at the table ..., performing on stage at the House of Culture, as an amateur, purely for yourself, friends, etc. Next Thanks for the advice.
The D version transfers information to the carcass about the focusing distance, which is better. This decision is yours. At home, a fifty dollars is long, better than 35, in general, if not removed from the carcass. Maybe a flash for the room?
I would be grateful to everyone who will answer and express their thoughts on the issue of lenses!
Lenses are either new or second-hand, and when it comes to second-hand, it doesn't matter how old it is, because a more recent second-hand can be killed much more than a second-hand one that is far from the first freshness. I have a Chinese version and everything works well. In this case, there is no need to be afraid of “made in China”, because this is not a Chinese copy, but an original product.
Set your 18-105 to 50 mm (or 35 mm if you buy a 35 mm fix), and without changing the focal length, shoot at home and outdoors. If you constantly want to reduce or increase the zoom, then you do not need a 50 mm fix. The only thing is that 50 1.8 will give you aperture values unattainable on the whale zoom, and if you really want it, then you can not do without a fast aperture.
In general, as they say, if you doubt whether you need something or not, then you do not need it.
Oleg! Thank!
Almost all glasses that are considered (advertised) light, in fact, are not. That is, they are sharp from the diaphragm of 2,8, or even from 3,5 to 4,0, well, plus the lightness is eaten by the light filter, the protective filter. So why are these glasses positioned (declared) as light, also manufacturers, sellers pull money (from 50-80 bucks and above) in vain from the wallets of amateur photographers and pros! ??
And how else to declare them? Fine-grained?