After thousands of shots taken with a whale lens, and after viewing millions of images on the Internet, shot with high-aperture optics, sometimes you just want to try something new and fast. After the 'boring' stock lens that usually comes with a camera, the tiny Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) is a great addition.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Note that I call this the MKIII because it is the third version of the Nikon Nikkor AF 50mm F1.8 class lens. On the net it is usually called simply - Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF, any representation of letters is allowed :).
All Nikon 50 / 1.8 Autofocus Lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (first version, MKI) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1990. It is easy to distinguish by a window with a focusing distance and a narrow plastic focus ring. There are two subversions that are no different:
- MKI first subversion. Weighing 210 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From September 1986 to March 1987. Serial numbers start at 2
- MKI second version. Weighing 165 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the absence of a screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From 1987 to 1990. Serial numbers start at 3.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (second version, MKII, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was produced in Japan and China. The MK II version was produced from 1990 to 2001. There are three subversions that are no different:
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 2002 to this day. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as '1.8 G'-version or '1.8 AF-S' version) - the lens has been produced since 2011, all lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition (fifth version, MKVbetter known as version 'Special Edition' or 'SE' or version for the camera with a retro design of the case Nikon Df) - the lens has been available since the fall of 2013. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm 1: 1.8 S, from summer 2018, lens for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount... Diagram of 12 elements in 9 groups, 2 ED, 2 ASP.
Details on the lineup of fifty dollars from Nikon can be found in my article 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
If you want to feel what aperture maneuver for real - Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor will help you very quickly. In this review, I will try to cover the specifics of using the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in real life.
As they say, the wizard casts a magic wand, and the sorceress uses a magic hole - it is the 'hole' (relative aperture of the lens) that attracts most of all in this lens, the maximum value of which is 1: 1.8. A lens with such a focal length and such aperture suggests that when focusing at close distances it will be easy to get 'bokeh effect'and blur the foreground and background.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Main technical characteristics of Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor 2860907 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 52 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Body materials | Focusing ring plastic, rubberized on the outside. The outer case is made of plastic. Metal mount. The diaphragm control ring is plastic. |
| Focal length | 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm, EGF for Nikon CX cameras is 135 mm |
| Diagonal viewing angles | 46 ° for FX cameras, 31 ° for DX cameras |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens without the ability to change the focal length) |
| Designed by | for film and digital cameras Nikon FX / Nikon DX. When the lens exited the Nikon digital cameras, only the cropped Nikon D1s were present, D1h, D1x и D100. |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 non-rounded petals |
| Tags | marking on the focus ring with the focusing distance in meters and feet, depth of field scale for F / 22 and F / 11. Label for working in the infrared spectrum (white dot near the depth of field scale). Ring with aperture values, there are marks for F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. |
| Diaphragm | from f / 1.8 to f / 22. The lens has an aperture ring (Non-G - lens type) |
| MDF (minimum focusing distance) | 0.45 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 6.6 |
| The weight | 155 g |
| Optical design | 6 elements in 5 groups. The lens does not use special optical elements. The image with the optical circuit is clickable. Lens version MKI и MKII use the same optical design. |
| Lens hood | Rubber hood Nikon HR-2. The lens hood is not included in the scope of delivery; the lens hood is screwed into the thread under the filters. |
| Transportation | Using the CL-S1 or CL-0715 soft case or using the CL-30S case. A case or case is not supplied and must be purchased separately. During transport, use standard rear (e.g. LF-1 or LF-4) and front (e.g. LC-52) covers. Usually sold with a white plastic translucent back cover. and black front. The lens is sold in a classic Nikon golden box (there are several modifications of the box design). |
| Period | from February 2002 to the present |
| Manufacturer country | Made in China (all MKIII lenses are made in China) |
| Instructions | See |
| 3D view | See |
| Price |
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - very lightweight lens. It has the smallest weight in its class. Due to its very small size and low weight, you can always take it with you. And finding a 52 mm filter is as easy as shelling pears. I really love hikesand every extra 100 grams of weight is a serious challenge, so instead of some heavy zoom lens I often use the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor smallest autofocus lens from Nikon that I have ever seen. There is a joke that it is in the pocket of every photographer. Just a joke, but I often keep Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in my case, it takes up little space and I don't mind losing it.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) fast fixed lens from Nikon. It is hard to find something cheaper. The lens will allow you to get the necessary experience for a little money when working with high-aperture optics, including fixed lenses. I almost always recommend the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF as the first optional lens.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII), microprocessor contacts, rear view
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF can open the aperture up to f / 1.8. For example, an aperture ratio of 1: 1.8 is about 10 times morethan 1: 5.6. For example, class lenses 18-55/3.5-5.6 with the same focal length have 1: 5.6. F / 1.8 will allow you to shoot at low ISOs in low light conditions, use short excerpts when shooting handheld, and will also allow better control GRIP.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) and Minolta MC Rokkor-PF 1: 1.4 f = 58mm
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is very affordable lens, it is easy to find it in any store in any city. A huge number of copies of this model were released. Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF lenses are available with 2002 to this day.
It's a shame, but all Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) lenses are made in China. And here are his predecessors Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK I) и Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK II) produced in Japan.
The lens has fast auto focus system - on my camera, the lens focuses from 45 cm to infinity and back in one second. The most interesting thing is that his motorized brother Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical has exactly the same focusing speed. I tested both lenses together. Plus, the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF focuses even faster than the flagship half a ruble - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G.
Attention: the fact that the small Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF has no built-in focus motor has nothing to do with focusing speed.
It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs
- D3, D3x, D3s, D4, D4s, D5, D6
- Df
- D50, D70, D70s, D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200,D7500
- D100, D200, D300, D300s,D500
- D600, D610, D750, D780
- D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850
- Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 ProS3 Pro UVIR, S5 ProIS Pro
- Kodak DCS PRO 14n, DCS Pro SLR/n
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:
Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.
You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) while focusing at the minimum focusing distance (trunk extended as far as possible)
Attention: the lens has a manual aperture ring. To be able to control the value aperture from camera or for automatic installation aperture on modern central control valves, you need to turn the control ring to the F / 22 value (the value is colored in orange) and fix it with a special lever, which is located to the right of the marks aperture. If this is not done, then on a number of cameras, the display will display an error - 'fEE' (ring is not installed aperture) Some cameras having diaphragm rheostatallow you to control the diaphragm with this ring aperturebut only in metering modes exposure 'M' and 'A'. You can read more about this issue in the section on Non-G Lenses. Ring aperture rotates with clicks, the values F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 are plotted on it, it is impossible to establish an intermediate value between pairs of numbers. This ring is useful, for example, for reverse macro shot.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has focus distance scale. The scale is available in meters and feet, it is very nice and useful. For example, you don’t need to think in which direction the focus ring is rotated, just look at the lens for this. For example, a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor It has neither a focus distance scale, nor a depth of field scale, nor an aperture control ring.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) with front and rear cover
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has the ability to work on full frame the camera and is a Nikon FX type lens. On the Nikon DX cameras his EGF will be 75 mm. More details about FR and EGF in the section about 'crop factor'.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has bayonet mount metal back... This is great news as many people think that the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF is very lightweight and is made out of plastic.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF on camera Sony a7. The aperture control ring allows you to use the lens on any camera through the appropriate adapter.
When focusing front lens does not rotate. This allows you to easily use different filters and not worry about their shifts when focusing. The focus ring is rubberized and rotates 120 degrees, but in order to slightly shift the focus ring, you need to 'tear it off'. At the same time, smooth focusing is lost, since after such a “jerk” the ring flies over the desired value. The effort is not so great, but when working in macro mode, where, due to the very small depth of field, each degree of rotation plays a huge role, this “slightly twitchy” method of focusing greatly inflates the nerves during manual focusing. There is a similar effect on many other lenses, most pronounced on the 'dark' Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical. Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor users who always shoot with autofocus will most likely never notice the effect described above. Also, it is worth noting that the previous version of this lens, namely Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MIJ version)had no such problem.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor Lens Tags
Lens disadvantages:
- When using Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF lens on open apertures it is very difficult to achieve a sharp image... True, I noticed such a feature that sharpness disappears at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8. At f / 2.8-f / 8.0 aperture, the lens becomes very sharp.
- Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF pretty makes a lot of noise during auto focus. When you miss focusing, the lens buzzes annoyingly, and the camera motor scares small insects and nervous people, betraying the photographer in a quiet environment. Noisy autofocus has a very negative effect when shooting video.
- Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF does not have a built-in focus motor. As mentioned at the beginning of the article, it can be used with autofocus only on cameras with a focusing motor.
- There is no hood included with the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF. The hood is attached by screwing it into the filter thread.
- When focusing, the entire lens block moves, while the 'lens trunk' extends forward.
- On the lens no focus mode switch, the transition to manual focus and back is carried out by means of a switch on the camera, which is located near the camera mount.
- The lens has a total of 7 non-rounded aperture blades that create 'nuts' in the out-of-focus area.
- The Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is well built, but over time, a slight play in the focusing ring appears. If you shake the lens slightly, you can hear the tapping of the focusing ring. This is not a problem, just a small specific flaw.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor lens
With all the pros and cons Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - an indispensable lens in all situations. For me personally, it is inconvenient in that the auto focus on my camera does not work Nikon D40which I often use. On the open aperture, the sharpness zone is very small and it’s very difficult to manually enter it.
Nikon aperture blades 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
All photos in the gallery below are shot on a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D AF and full-frame camera. Nikon D700 FX, photo without processing, only the size is reduced to 3MP and data from EXIF.
The gallery below shows photos from Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) without treatment:
Jpeg source photos download from this link (1.09 Gb). The archive is 453 photosfilmed in 6 months on Nikon D70. Oddly enough, but I enjoy working with this old and very cheap Nikon D70 both old and very cheap Nikon 50 / 1.8... The camera cost me $ 50, the lens - $ 90. On a 6 MP CCD sensor, even at F / 1.8, acceptable sharpness is obtained. I did not regret the shutter and filmed as much as my soul wanted. Photos from this collection are used by me in an article about choosing a Nikon DSLR. Examples of photos with processing can be found in my gallery here. You can see more examples of photos on Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) in the review Nikon D300 и Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro и S1 Pro.
And also this link You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Video review
Short video review Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) you can see on my channel here.
Fifties Recommendations for Nikon Cameras
A list of all-all Nikon Nikkor autofocus lenses, as well as my recommendations for choosing the best option for specific tasks, can be found in the 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
My experience
I really love the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. This is my first autofocus fast aperture lens, which I used in a wide range of photo tasks and spent a huge number of shoots with it.
As a result, Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is:
- The easiest original full frame fixed focus lens with auto focus
- The cheapest Original fast prime lens with auto focus
- Most affordable Original fast prime lens with fixed focal length and auto focus in the secondary market. Countless instances of it have been released.
- The most compact original fixed focus lens with auto focus
- One of the fastest original autofocus lenses for FX and DX cameras (brighter only ten lenses with f / 1.4Unfortunately Nikon does not release aperture optics for FX cameras with support for autofocus)
- One of the best price / quality lenses
A huge number of lenses from Nikon (hundreds of models) passed through my hands. In my personal opinion, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is one of the best lenses of all time from Nikon.
Lens prices
Real prices for the lens in popular online stores can see here, or in the price block below:
Also, this lens can be found on:
- Look at Power outlet
- Look in Connected
- Look at E-Catalog
- Look at Magazilla
- Look at M.Video
- Look at Ozone
- Look at Nadavi
- Euroset
- On the AliExpress
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor on camera Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro
Results:
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - great lens for the money... Due to its compactness and lightness, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) can always be taken with you. It can produce very sharp images with slightly rough bokeh. On DX cameras it can be used as a conventional portrait lens. The lens' only serious drawback is the lack of sharpness at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8.
UPDATE: in 2016, a Chinese lens appeared, based on the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor optical circuit (optically no worse) and with an integrated focus motor. See YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 review (YN50mm F1.8N).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I want to thank you so much for the review, it really helped me in choosing a lens! I use the D7500 and everyone told me that it will not work with this carcass with autofocus until the lens was purchased, but I ordered it by believing you!
I checked that the lens works well and focuses automatically!
THANK YOU JOY! YOUR REVIEWS REALLY HELP! Still, there is less botanical FLORA that does not talk about anything, but more dough and ...
I shot with Nikon AF Nikkor 24-85mm 1: 2.8-4 D IF Aspherical Macro, sometimes I used Nikon DX AF-S NIKKOR 55-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G ED VR SWM HRI .., but ...
read this article, bought ..
low bow, the whole family is delighted ...
One nuance - among all Nikon fifty dollars, only this one has a high microcontrast, and when using a hood and aperture starting from 2,8, you can get professional photos from it (in technical terms, of course). The rest of fifty dollars have no such micro-contrast!
I had experience of working Nikonovskaya 50ka 1.8 d on a “crop” and on a full frame. So, on the "corpse" of course, under the "portrait", this lens can "skew", in general, not bad, but as for me, the lens "opens in full" on a full frame. Glass really does a good job considering the price of the lens. At 1.8 aperture, it is not very sharp, but not soapy either, but at 2.8, the sharpness returns to normal. But even if you have Nikon D90 or D7000, and not a full frame, then you should try this glass (cheaper than an auto focal Nikon fifty dollars), probably not).
Please tell me exactly what kind of adapter is on a7 with pictures, I can’t find anywhere.
Thank you.
Good afternoon! Tell me, in your opinion, are there any differences in photo quality between the MKII and MKIII models? For some reason, subjectively, I like the photos presented in the review with the MKII designation more than the photos without such designation ...
The differences are minimal. By and large, they are not.
Thank you for such a quick reply! Arkady, please give advice: I have been the owner of the Nikon d200 complete with Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8D for a year now (I got this lens thanks to your review, for which I thank you very much, I really like the photos with it). I want to develop further in terms of photography, so tell me, what lenses do you think should I pay attention to in the future? I often go to nature, photograph nature, fish fishing, people on the background of nature, etc. I would like some kind of lens (you), which (with proper use) will allow you to create beautiful (optically) photographs to complement my existing lens and the existing camera.
Arkady good day! Really looking forward to your reply!
35 mm take. 1.8G is cheaper for your crop or 2D is more expensive in pair to 60 for a possible transition to FF. On the crop, this angle is closer to normal, it will be easier to photograph landscapes and groups of people.
Well, something very broad. Nikon 10-20, for example. It is only up to crop, but it makes no sense to take full-frame ultra-wide for your camera. Expensive and will not give the desired effect. Or something from tokina - 11-16, 12-24, they have a lot of shirikov and all are good.
Starting with 60 mm (count from 90) is, of course, interesting.
Thank you!
35 f / 1,8 DX - anyway. Further, based on the possibilities: 18-55 + 55-300 or 18-105 + 55-300. I have 24-120 f / 4, very satisfied. If you have money, of course 17-55 + high-aperture tele (70-200), you can see an old 70-210 f / 4
How to breed people well, the article talks about one objective, and the video review is not at all the one in this article. It is necessary to warn.
How easy it is to breed you. There, next to the link to the video, a link to a text review.
A brief video review of Nikon 50mm, shown without the letter D. And in the article it is marked D. The video review there is not the one indicated in the article. At least it pleases that on the Internet a video review of such a lens is present. Since he is not here.
Yes, the video review shows the version Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII), but I will reveal the secret that they are almost identical in general, including optically :)
I have been using this lens on a crop camera for a long time, in general and on the whole I always liked it, but the lengthened focal length on the crop creates inconveniences in some cases, I still want a “real” fifty, I need to take 35m, actually I am slowly looking, but for now I don't dare to buy, I'm afraid to be disappointed with the sharpness and quality, I look towards 35 / 1.8 Nikon and 35mm Yongnue. Can you please tell me who has experience in using these lenses, will there be a strong difference in the quality of the picture, is it worth the sacrifice in order to get a real “fifty kopeck piece” on the “crop”? Or put up with a slightly long focal length and continue to use it further?
Comparing 50 / 1,8D with 35DX: there is, of course, some “difference in the quality of the picture”. Firstly, this is noticeable when the depth of field is increased, so it is difficult to achieve volume, as with an open fifty dollars. Also, due to some perspective distortions, they should not make facial portraits, at least starting from the half-length. And so the lens is good, which is interesting - on a full frame it gives a slight darkening of the corners, which can be easily removed in lightroom.
So sharpness or pattern? For sharpness 35DX do not worry
To be honest, at the moment I am taking off my clothes on a mannequin; due to lack of room depth, from 50mm. I collided with glass literally speaking “with a wall”, uncomfortable, but otherwise everything suits, everything is sharp and bright, with studio light, of course, I shoot on “hole” 8 or 11. For example, “whale” 18-55 gives less sharp drawing of fabric, clothing; drawing details of clothing is worse.
Now, specifically for solving this problem, I wanted to use 35mm so that the camera could be put closer, and generally for the future, for general filming.
35 will be sharper than 50D
Thank you for sharing, then you have to take it, because I really hit the wall with my shoulder blades when I try to look through the viewfinder. I even thought that maybe, as an alternative, I could replace my old crop carcass with a full frame, “kill two birds with one stone”, get it with my 50mm. normal focal glass and at the same time make the long-awaited leap to full frame, but the prices for the D700 are still biting, about 35-40 tons. It will be many times more expensive than changing the lens;), you will have to sit on the crop for now.
Press the hole to 8-11 and more light. There will be no direct such-and-such difference in sharpness.
I do not recommend taking Yangna 35. Focus is always a problem. And it's not just me. That fifty dollars is acceptable. I bought Nikon 35 / 1.8 on my Nikon d7000. Well this is really lovely. How sharp he is. This glass is for enjoyment.
No Yongnau! Owned 35 / 1,8 for the crop. a fairy tale, an ultrasonic motor has never failed. Yongnau often rains.
Nikkor 50 / 1,8D (screwdriver) and 35 / 1,8DX are available. Used in conjunction with D7000. The picture on the strip is more plastic and “more artistic”, but there are many mistakes on the open hole. With what it is connected I did not understand. (either I am not firm on my feet and there is a shift after focusing, or the screwdriver does not work out exactly) DOF when open is very small. 35 / 1,8DX with built-in motor, focuses instantly, there are practically no misses. I noticed a stir on the open one when shooting in full growth and exposure 40-60 (although it should not be). Shorter exposures are fine. As a conclusion - half a beautiful picture, but I do not use it for responsible shooting. Only slowly, for yourself. 35 / 1,8 is reliable in terms of hitting, sharp, but the picture is dry, reportage. Now I use Sigma 17-50 / 2,8 EX DS HSM I like it. Nice and practical.
Well, except for 50 mm it’s like 85 mm per ff, and the shutter speed should be from 1/85 and higher, otherwise the move will be
* Crope, forgive my t9.
Not 85, but 75 mm. Yet 50 mm even on the crop does not reach the classic portraiture.
Good day! Is this lens suitable for the d3400?
Hello, it will do, but there will be no autofocus. Better this https://radojuva.com/2012/02/obzor-nikon-50-mm-f-1-8-g-af-s/ or 35mm https://radojuva.com/2011/03/obzor-nikkor-af-s-35mm-f1-8-dx/
Hello! I have a Nikon D3200 - a carcass. I bought a Tamron AF 18-200mm f / 3.5-6.3 (IF) Aspherical LD XR DiII Macro A14 lens. Question: Which adapter should I choose? Cheaper. I can’t pick it up.
I bought a second-hand this lens, and already at home examined the “ring” inside the lenses, is it not a fungus? Not visible from every angle
http://forum.watch.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=2580324&d=1557984565
And the diaphragm, as you can see, is it so open for everything, should it be so? Doesn't everyone hide like helios?
It doesn’t look like a fungus, it does not grow in colonies like bacteria. Probably a microdefect of glass. But the diaphragm when opening is completely removed, the edges are not visible.
It turns out a diaphragm defect it? :(
He removed it from the camera and switched to manual control of the diaphragm, it opens completely if you open a little further than 1.8, and if you manually press the lever on the mount, more than 1,8 does not open, and it remains on the camera when installed, after releasing the shutter with aperture 4 it seems remains covered up even more. However, until I noticed that the photo had the wrong exposure, it only confuses that it remains in this position.
You can see for a reason that there are so many second-hand them on sale :(, quality upsets: (((
Build quality I mean. Photo quality is good
The build quality seems to be quite good, I have not heard any complaints about them before, which is noted by many (and I also see it on mine) - there is no sharpness in the open, with about 2,4 it appears, in contrast to 1,8G. So if you do not open up to 1,8-2,0, the loss is not great.
More about the assembly: somehow dropped mine from a height of about 50cm onto the laminate - without any consequences. Maybe yours was dropped from a greater height?
And by the way, when I rotate beyond the 1,8 mark, it doesn’t click on my diaphragm ring.
The fact of the matter is that on the camera the aperture is normally adjusted, and the shutter speed is selected by the exposure meter to be set correctly, everything seems to work on the pictures. It only confuses the look of this. Or 1,8 should be fully open without such as in my photo?
It remains only to buy a new one and compare.
I repeat, mine is fully open both on FA and manually on 1,8.
So they threw me, then I’ll buy a new one better.
And is it normal that on open apertures the pictures are always a bit lighter, or is it just me?
“And it’s normal that at open apertures the pictures are always a little brighter” - I never noticed this, it can be if there is so much light that the exposure does not fit within the boundaries of S = 1 / 4000s at ISO 100 (or 50).
Chipped or microdefect. There are still bubbles.
No, it’s not a fungus or bacteria. Not like that .
I was terrified, disassembled this lens from a video from YouTube and smeared the helicoid with lithol so that it smoothly rotated like on helios, collected it and then the worst thing started, it turned out to be infinitely a bit lost, the adjustment rests on the tape tape under the focus rubber, it didn’t coincide by a degree and was already far away the sharpness is not the same as before. I re-caught it 10 times, it seemed to somehow set it up. I do not advise you to disassemble if you do not have a Chinese factory with equipment. :(
You could really mark with a scratch exactly where it should be under scotch tape that holds two rings (lens block and distance scale), but I did not know this, I almost had to buy a new one
And by the way, it wasn’t particularly convenient to manually focus (I have a D3100, because I don’t have autofocus), it just doesn’t rub the plastic as before, but it’s better if I didn’t climb there, I almost ruined the lens
Strange lens. I don’t like its color rendering and the feel of the photos on the Nikon D7000 and I love the photo with it on the Nikon D40.
And you think the matter is in the lens?
So he will think and become one more STO supporter, and this is a delusion, many comrades assure. My 5 kopecks: somehow I went into my yard (count to the dacha) to take pictures of plants, etc., since the sun is not bright, but with clouds, in my hands d600 + 50 / 1,8G and d200 + 35/1,8, 4DX. The settings - picture and aperture (mainly f200) - are the same, the views are the same. When editing, only light (brightness) was added, and what - beat d600 XNUMXth: more contrast, sharper (!), More colorful. Strange lenses.
Hello. Tell me on the lens. Requirements, shooting in an apartment, sometimes on the street, camera D80. Shoot more often than a child. There is Nikon 18-105, for good weather it is enough on the street, but not enough in the apartment. Choose between Nikon 50mm 1,8D. Nikon 50mm 1,4D, Nikon 50mm 1,8G, Nikon 35mm 1,8G.
Indoors definitely 35 1.8
Thanks, Arkady. Is it suitable for cloudy weather and portraits? And then the budget is limited and I can’t afford both 50G and 35G ((
Aperture 1.8 is sufficient for cloudy weather on an open hole (well, or up to 2.8 completely). 50 is usually better for portraits, but it depends on what type of portrait you prefer. Facial, growth, pectoral. Any of them can be done on any focal, but for certain types of portraits, certain focal ones are better suited (like).
You have 18-105. Review your existing shots and decide which focal shots you most often work on. Closer to 35 or 50. Take this.
unfortunately 35mm 1.8 or 50mm 1.8 with aperture 1.8 give soap. to obtain a more or less sane picture, they must be covered up to 2.8.
in addition, 1.8 is still aperture and not aperture. aperture, as is usually understood, is what is called Tstop - the photometric aperture, also known as “T-stop” (T = transmission), is the aperture of the lens corrected for its transmission loss).
Nikon 35 mm 1.8G with aperture 1.8 it is 2.4.
Nikon 50 1.8D with aperture 1.8 it is 2.0.
Canon 50 1.8 STM with aperture 1.8 it is equal to 1.9.
Hence follows a simple fact, which is well known to practitioners - different lenses with the same aperture can seriously differ in exposure precisely because of the different effective (real) aperture ratio.
Well, who wants to understand in more detail, read what a geometric aperture is (what simplifies the diaphragm) and what is an effective aperture (T stop), the differences between them can be 1-2 stops of exposure.
Thanks, Cap!
That is, it turns out that 50G is faster? I understand that a portrait will be good at 50, but you still need to shoot the child in motion, here a more fast lens is preferable. But they write that in an apartment 35G will be more convenient. So the flour of choice prevails. I analyzed my photos by focal length, it is different from 18 to 105, therefore I can’t determine this parameter ((
In a typical apartment, if you do not have a mansion, of course, 24mm will be the most convenient focus on the crop. This is wide enough to make a portrait to the waist (and even growth) in cramped conditions, spitting on the quality of blurring and will not disfigure the facial features when the lens approaches a person for a facial portrait.
35 mm is less convenient in this regard. 50 mm is even less convenient, because it will be either a front portrait, or you will have to run away to the corner of the room to at least somehow grab a person to the waist. A portrait implies some kind of setting so that there are no outlets, sofas and furniture, so with 50 mm at home you will be very limited.
You can try to fix the lens at 35 mm and take a few frames, then at 50 mm, there are marks on the lens. It will be more convenient.
35mm apartment is definitely more convenient. do not forget that in reality you will have 35 * 1.5 = 52.5mm. from personal experience, when I had a Nikon crop, I shot 12-24 / 4 in Tokin in an apartment. Now in the apartment a smartphone is more than enough for me.
As for the aperture, strictly speaking, Alexander is right, paying attention to the difference between the geometric aperture and the effective one, taking into account the loss in light transmission, but with the modern sensitivity of the matrices, videographers bother with this more, it is important to get equally exposed material shot on different lenses than photographers, which, first of all, are guided by the number 1.8 to assess the degree of blurring than by the exact light transmittance. If you still study, then 35 mm, maybe a little darker, but it’s a little more compromise with the lubricant (1/35 instead of 1/50), so that’s what happens. Do not bother about this.
A face portrait should be shot at 70mm or more. The fact that Roman writes '24 mm will not disfigure the facial features ... 'is nonsense. Even 50mm will significantly distort features in a facial portrait.
For the rest - yes, with a fifty-kopeck piece on a crop in a customary apartment you won't turn around much, even with 35mm not everything fits
Cv, look for simpler faces for portraits. Bgg.
That is, to ask those who have a big nose to leave the room and not shine? Selecting people by face shape? Somewhere it was already ... Not funny.
"Alexander
23.06.2019 in 22: 01
35mm apartment is definitely more convenient. do not forget that in reality you will have 35 * 1.5 = 52.5mm. " - Alexander, why confuse EGF, a person with FD for a crop will not figure it out. And, by the way, what is the EGF of your smartphone (here you need EGF, because the crop of the smartphone is unknown)?
Yes, it is quite
Thank you.
Thank you all for the advice.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6RGduHmfNQoZj1UG6
I analyzed my photos.
You shoot at 35 and 50. There at the end of the tab with photos and shooting parameters. See manually what kind of photo on these focal points will be the answer)
I have been using this lens for about 10 years, I probably really like it, except that it buzzes quite loudly with “screwdriver” focusing, in certain places where noise is not desirable is a minus.
My copy is pretty "dented" by life; the focus has been paused recently, I am thinking of replacing it with Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G, but I'm not completely sure whether it will get worse in terms of drawing, sharpness, and quality.
Tell me please, is it worth changing to Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G, if the task is to get rid of the buzzing noise when focusing and at the same time update the old, collapsing lens or do not look for good, will the modern version be worse in terms of plasticity and halftone pattern? To repair this or take the same new one?
Hello. For a long time I had 1,8D (on the D50, D200), I liked it, I arranged it. Recently acquired a D600 and soon came across an inexpensive 50 / 1,8G, which I put on it, changing only to a universal wagon. I was going to compare them all, you pushed for an express test. 1,8G is cutter than the first at f1,8, and at f2,8, the bokeh is softer. Here are examples of G vs D on f1,8 and 2,8 (focus on the yellow flower, alas, overexposed, the picture is neutral): https://ibb.co/7zH2Yfv - https://ibb.co/tb6k0Gk - https://ibb.co/82Knk3J - https://ibb.co/KrLDRV9
Thanks for the express test! And what can you say from the experience of use and give a verbal assessment, which in your opinion is better all the same as a result? Do you like G better now, is it better? Or let’s say this, is the main thing no worse? Do you recommend changing?
I think G is better at least because it is sharper on the open (D does not give sharpness and in the center up to 2,5-2,8), blurring, it seems, softer (this is for aesthetes), chrome aberrations-freejings in the eyes and there and do not rush there. In short, the difference is not critical, the funds allow - you can take G too.
Hello, I bought a new 1.8d fifty dollar. Such a problem, when focusing a little sometimes jerks the image to the left - right, who faced this? What could be the problem? I bought the lens a couple of days ago in hello. Will it be possible to make a refund suddenly? To return, the technique doesn't have to be in use.
It annoys me very much that none of the “Observers” has indicated the resolution of the lenses !!! What is this, a secret behind seven seals ??? I looked at the characteristics of different lenses on several sites, and no one bothered to point out that one of the main qualities of all lenses is their resolving power. What? Are foreigners embarrassed to provide such information? Maybe there is nothing special in them? Solid BLUFF !!! So to speak, a marketing ploy. In "THEM", like many domestic fans of "COCA-COLA" ", it is customary to scold everything domestic, and praise everything bourgeois! Then, as a matter of fact, the sheepskin is not worth the candle. , on the lens from the camera "Ricko", on his "Zenith" shot a couple of frames. So what? He loses to our "Mir-1" in all respects !!!
They should have measured them with rulers? There are MTF charts - use it.
about Coca-Cola - many years ago they transplanted the world into a small dose of cocaine dissolved in water or its derivative mixed with chemicals, which they borrowed from washing powders. I wonder how you can drink this outright filth, and the USSR is also scolded for the fact that such poisons were not imported before the Khrushchev traitors, and people were given real lemonades, with a shelf life of 7 (days)! And even before that, Lagidze waters are real fruit decoctions with amazing taste and healthiness. But the same revisionists and traitors, like other goods, did not produce optics, because they destroyed the USSR with this, it was done on purpose, only then the people did not understand this, when they understood, it was already too late ... And at that time China built its heavy industry following the economic theory of Stalin, and when it was completed, they began to produce consumer goods and pulled ahead in some 30 years, and soon they will become the first in the world in almost all respects. And the children and relatives of those Khrushchev traitors are now millionaires in the countries of the former USSR and continue the plundering of the countries that has begun. Recently, after all, Glazyev officially admitted that after the collapse of the USSR, 15 trillion dollars flowed away from all 2 countries abroad, and this figure is inaccurate, maybe more, there are no factories, or almost no, there is no economy, the future is also in question, but we export raw materials to China and other developed industrial countries, and then we ourselves admire the fact that they have released some kind of lenses, the release of which, in fact, costs nothing. Japan still holds the lead only because they have standards in this matter, and the market is very conservative, the degree of customer confidence is very high due to some technical and consumer properties of photo and video equipment ... That is, they produce, and we test and consume , but we overpay for it a lot.
In the course of the topic missed :)
Autumn exacerbation on November 7th.
You have a wonderful Zenith, there is a wonderful Mir-1 for it with “the world's largest resolution”, shoot your barracks on it and the red corner with Lenin's icons, just calm down, please.
Tell me!: I think I’ll take a fifty dollars for myself, the choice fell on this nikon and on the arsat h 50mm, I understand the screwdriver of course is of significant importance, but I'm interested in the image quality when taking into account the focus.
Does this lens have a vacuum cleaner effect? If so, will the installation of a protective filter save?
As such, there is no effect. The protective filter has nothing to do with this effect.
If you hold the body with your left hand and hold the sharpness ring with your right hand, there is a slight play of the sharpness ring relative to the central axis of the lenses. When focusing manually, the ring spins ... like plastic on plastic, the impression of a lack of lubrication. On the whale 18-55 everything is smoother. Is this normal for 1.8D?
Can anyone confirm - deny?