After thousands of shots taken with a whale lens, and after viewing millions of images on the Internet, shot with high-aperture optics, sometimes you just want to try something new and fast. After the 'boring' stock lens that usually comes with a camera, the tiny Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) is a great addition.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Note that I call this the MKIII because it is the third version of the Nikon Nikkor AF 50mm F1.8 class lens. On the net it is usually called simply - Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF, any representation of letters is allowed :).
All Nikon 50 / 1.8 Autofocus Lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (first version, MKI) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1990. It is easy to distinguish by a window with a focusing distance and a narrow plastic focus ring. There are two subversions that are no different:
- MKI first subversion. Weighing 210 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From September 1986 to March 1987. Serial numbers start at 2
- MKI second version. Weighing 165 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the absence of a screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From 1987 to 1990. Serial numbers start at 3.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (second version, MKII, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was produced in Japan and China. The MK II version was produced from 1990 to 2001. There are three subversions that are no different:
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 2002 to this day. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as '1.8 G'-version or '1.8 AF-S' version) - the lens has been produced since 2011, all lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition (fifth version, MKVbetter known as version 'Special Edition' or 'SE' or version for the camera with a retro design of the case Nikon Df) - the lens has been available since the fall of 2013. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm 1: 1.8 S, from summer 2018, lens for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount... Diagram of 12 elements in 9 groups, 2 ED, 2 ASP.
Details on the lineup of fifty dollars from Nikon can be found in my article 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
If you want to feel what aperture maneuver for real - Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor will help you very quickly. In this review, I will try to cover the specifics of using the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in real life.
As they say, the wizard casts a magic wand, and the sorceress uses a magic hole - it is the 'hole' (relative aperture of the lens) that attracts most of all in this lens, the maximum value of which is 1: 1.8. A lens with such a focal length and such aperture suggests that when focusing at close distances it will be easy to get 'bokeh effect'and blur the foreground and background.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
Main technical characteristics of Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor 2860907 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 52 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Body materials | Focusing ring plastic, rubberized on the outside. The outer case is made of plastic. Metal mount. The diaphragm control ring is plastic. |
| Focal length | 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm, EGF for Nikon CX cameras is 135 mm |
| Diagonal viewing angles | 46 ° for FX cameras, 31 ° for DX cameras |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens without the ability to change the focal length) |
| Designed by | for film and digital cameras Nikon FX / Nikon DX. When the lens exited the Nikon digital cameras, only the cropped Nikon D1s were present, D1h, D1x и D100. |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 non-rounded petals |
| Tags | marking on the focus ring with the focusing distance in meters and feet, depth of field scale for F / 22 and F / 11. Label for working in the infrared spectrum (white dot near the depth of field scale). Ring with aperture values, there are marks for F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. |
| Diaphragm | from f / 1.8 to f / 22. The lens has an aperture ring (Non-G - lens type) |
| MDF (minimum focusing distance) | 0.45 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 6.6 |
| The weight | 155 g |
| Optical design | 6 elements in 5 groups. The lens does not use special optical elements. The image with the optical circuit is clickable. Lens version MKI и MKII use the same optical design. |
| Lens hood | Rubber hood Nikon HR-2. The lens hood is not included in the scope of delivery; the lens hood is screwed into the thread under the filters. |
| Transportation | Using the CL-S1 or CL-0715 soft case or using the CL-30S case. A case or case is not supplied and must be purchased separately. During transport, use standard rear (e.g. LF-1 or LF-4) and front (e.g. LC-52) covers. Usually sold with a white plastic translucent back cover. and black front. The lens is sold in a classic Nikon golden box (there are several modifications of the box design). |
| Period | from February 2002 to the present |
| Manufacturer country | Made in China (all MKIII lenses are made in China) |
| Instructions | See |
| 3D view | See |
| Price |
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - very lightweight lens. It has the smallest weight in its class. Due to its very small size and low weight, you can always take it with you. And finding a 52 mm filter is as easy as shelling pears. I really love hikesand every extra 100 grams of weight is a serious challenge, so instead of some heavy zoom lens I often use the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor smallest autofocus lens from Nikon that I have ever seen. There is a joke that it is in the pocket of every photographer. Just a joke, but I often keep Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor in my case, it takes up little space and I don't mind losing it.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) fast fixed lens from Nikon. It is hard to find something cheaper. The lens will allow you to get the necessary experience for a little money when working with high-aperture optics, including fixed lenses. I almost always recommend the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF as the first optional lens.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII), microprocessor contacts, rear view
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF can open the aperture up to f / 1.8. For example, an aperture ratio of 1: 1.8 is about 10 times morethan 1: 5.6. For example, class lenses 18-55/3.5-5.6 with the same focal length have 1: 5.6. F / 1.8 will allow you to shoot at low ISOs in low light conditions, use short excerpts when shooting handheld, and will also allow better control GRIP.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) and Minolta MC Rokkor-PF 1: 1.4 f = 58mm
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is very affordable lens, it is easy to find it in any store in any city. A huge number of copies of this model were released. Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF lenses are available with 2002 to this day.
It's a shame, but all Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) lenses are made in China. And here are his predecessors Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK I) и Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MK II) produced in Japan.
The lens has fast auto focus system - on my camera, the lens focuses from 45 cm to infinity and back in one second. The most interesting thing is that his motorized brother Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical has exactly the same focusing speed. I tested both lenses together. Plus, the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF focuses even faster than the flagship half a ruble - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G.
Attention: the fact that the small Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF has no built-in focus motor has nothing to do with focusing speed.
It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs
- D3, D3x, D3s, D4, D4s, D5, D6
- Df
- D50, D70, D70s, D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200,D7500
- D100, D200, D300, D300s,D500
- D600, D610, D750, D780
- D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850
- Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 ProS3 Pro UVIR, S5 ProIS Pro
- Kodak DCS PRO 14n, DCS Pro SLR/n
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:
Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.
You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) while focusing at the minimum focusing distance (trunk extended as far as possible)
Attention: the lens has a manual aperture ring. To be able to control the value aperture from camera or for automatic installation aperture on modern central control valves, you need to turn the control ring to the F / 22 value (the value is colored in orange) and fix it with a special lever, which is located to the right of the marks aperture. If this is not done, then on a number of cameras, the display will display an error - 'fEE' (ring is not installed aperture) Some cameras having diaphragm rheostatallow you to control the diaphragm with this ring aperturebut only in metering modes exposure 'M' and 'A'. You can read more about this issue in the section on Non-G Lenses. Ring aperture rotates with clicks, the values F / 1.8, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 are plotted on it, it is impossible to establish an intermediate value between pairs of numbers. This ring is useful, for example, for reverse macro shot.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has focus distance scale. The scale is available in meters and feet, it is very nice and useful. For example, you don’t need to think in which direction the focus ring is rotated, just look at the lens for this. For example, a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor It has neither a focus distance scale, nor a depth of field scale, nor an aperture control ring.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) with front and rear cover
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has the ability to work on full frame the camera and is a Nikon FX type lens. On the Nikon DX cameras his EGF will be 75 mm. More details about FR and EGF in the section about 'crop factor'.
Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF has bayonet mount metal back... This is great news as many people think that the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF is very lightweight and is made out of plastic.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF on camera Sony a7. The aperture control ring allows you to use the lens on any camera through the appropriate adapter.
When focusing front lens does not rotate. This allows you to easily use different filters and not worry about their shifts when focusing. The focus ring is rubberized and rotates 120 degrees, but in order to slightly shift the focus ring, you need to 'tear it off'. At the same time, smooth focusing is lost, since after such a “jerk” the ring flies over the desired value. The effort is not so great, but when working in macro mode, where, due to the very small depth of field, each degree of rotation plays a huge role, this “slightly twitchy” method of focusing greatly inflates the nerves during manual focusing. There is a similar effect on many other lenses, most pronounced on the 'dark' Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical. Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor users who always shoot with autofocus will most likely never notice the effect described above. Also, it is worth noting that the previous version of this lens, namely Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MIJ version)had no such problem.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor Lens Tags
Lens disadvantages:
- When using Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF lens on open apertures it is very difficult to achieve a sharp image... True, I noticed such a feature that sharpness disappears at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8. At f / 2.8-f / 8.0 aperture, the lens becomes very sharp.
- Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF pretty makes a lot of noise during auto focus. When you miss focusing, the lens buzzes annoyingly, and the camera motor scares small insects and nervous people, betraying the photographer in a quiet environment. Noisy autofocus has a very negative effect when shooting video.
- Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF does not have a built-in focus motor. As mentioned at the beginning of the article, it can be used with autofocus only on cameras with a focusing motor.
- There is no hood included with the Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF. The hood is attached by screwing it into the filter thread.
- When focusing, the entire lens block moves, while the 'lens trunk' extends forward.
- On the lens no focus mode switch, the transition to manual focus and back is carried out by means of a switch on the camera, which is located near the camera mount.
- The lens has a total of 7 non-rounded aperture blades that create 'nuts' in the out-of-focus area.
- The Nikon 50mm F / 1.8D AF is well built, but over time, a slight play in the focusing ring appears. If you shake the lens slightly, you can hear the tapping of the focusing ring. This is not a problem, just a small specific flaw.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor lens
With all the pros and cons Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor - an indispensable lens in all situations. For me personally, it is inconvenient in that the auto focus on my camera does not work Nikon D40which I often use. On the open aperture, the sharpness zone is very small and it’s very difficult to manually enter it.
Nikon aperture blades 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
All photos in the gallery below are shot on a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D AF and full-frame camera. Nikon D700 FX, photo without processing, only the size is reduced to 3MP and data from EXIF.
The gallery below shows photos from Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) without treatment:
Jpeg source photos download from this link (1.09 Gb). The archive is 453 photosfilmed in 6 months on Nikon D70. Oddly enough, but I enjoy working with this old and very cheap Nikon D70 both old and very cheap Nikon 50 / 1.8... The camera cost me $ 50, the lens - $ 90. On a 6 MP CCD sensor, even at F / 1.8, acceptable sharpness is obtained. I did not regret the shutter and filmed as much as my soul wanted. Photos from this collection are used by me in an article about choosing a Nikon DSLR. Examples of photos with processing can be found in my gallery here. You can see more examples of photos on Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) in the review Nikon D300 и Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro и S1 Pro.
And also this link You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Video review
Short video review Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor NJ (NIKON JAPAN, MKII) you can see on my channel here.
Fifties Recommendations for Nikon Cameras
A list of all-all Nikon Nikkor autofocus lenses, as well as my recommendations for choosing the best option for specific tasks, can be found in the 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
My experience
I really love the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. This is my first autofocus fast aperture lens, which I used in a wide range of photo tasks and spent a huge number of shoots with it.
As a result, Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is:
- The easiest original full frame fixed focus lens with auto focus
- The cheapest Original fast prime lens with auto focus
- Most affordable Original fast prime lens with fixed focal length and auto focus in the secondary market. Countless instances of it have been released.
- The most compact original fixed focus lens with auto focus
- One of the fastest original autofocus lenses for FX and DX cameras (brighter only ten lenses with f / 1.4Unfortunately Nikon does not release aperture optics for FX cameras with support for autofocus)
- One of the best price / quality lenses
A huge number of lenses from Nikon (hundreds of models) passed through my hands. In my personal opinion, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor is one of the best lenses of all time from Nikon.
Lens prices
Real prices for the lens in popular online stores can see here, or in the price block below:
Also, this lens can be found on:
- Look at Power outlet
- Look in Connected
- Look at E-Catalog
- Look at Magazilla
- Look at M.Video
- Look at Ozone
- Look at Nadavi
- Euroset
- On the AliExpress
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor on camera Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro
Results:
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) - great lens for the money... Due to its compactness and lightness, the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) can always be taken with you. It can produce very sharp images with slightly rough bokeh. On DX cameras it can be used as a conventional portrait lens. The lens' only serious drawback is the lack of sharpness at apertures from F / 1.8 to F / 2.8.
UPDATE: in 2016, a Chinese lens appeared, based on the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor optical circuit (optically no worse) and with an integrated focus motor. See YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 review (YN50mm F1.8N).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Lovers of cool domestic manuals!
I am changing the train of new (with passports) light optics (4 lenses Mir-24N, Helios-81N, Kalenar-5N, Telear-N, - with an H mount, manufactured before 1991) from Kiev-19 TTL (and the camera itself, was filmed about a dozen films) on an unused, working autofocus Nikon-makrik - it is possible without a motor - from 85 mm and above. Optics characteristics (sample images) are detailed on the website of maestro A.Sh. I change it only because I am no longer able to direct the focus manually, but I still want to shoot.
Photos from the Internet. This is how a 200 mm telephoto camera looks like - Telear-N. My lens is in better condition - essentially brand new.
Good day to all. Arkady, tell me, I bought this lens for myself and after a couple of weeks I compared the focal length with the 18-105 DX lens at 50 and 75 mm. Fifty dollars gives the same picture as 18-105 at a focus of 50 mm. Although it should give as 75 mm. Camera d90. So it should be, or am I misunderstood something? Thanks.
It should be so. After all, you put a cropped 18-105 on a cropped camera. Now, if you put 75mm on a full-frame camera, then you get a viewing angle like a fifty dollars on a crop. In another way, 50mm on the crop is equivalent to 75mm on the full frame, I repeat it on the full frame, and not on the D90 crop as you do. This will be the notorious EGF, that is, a viewing angle of 50 mm on a crop is equivalent to 75 mm on a full frame
"Although it should give as much as 75 mm." - And it does. Suppose you have FF. We put a fifty on it, the view in the OVI, like 35mm on the crop, here are the real 50mm (for 35mm frame). They put it on FF 18-105 (and put fifty dollars on d90), turned the zoom by 50mm, the view in the OVI is the same, only the corners darkened (lens for the crop), set it to 18-105 75mm, of course the angle of view in the OVI became narrower, yes and the perspective shrank slightly, i.e. the distances between objects in depth decreased (on 50-ke they were, say, normal), looked in the OVI d90 (with fifty dollars what) - the angle of view is the same as 75mm on the FF, and the perspective, by the way, is normal, here you have an EFR of 50mm on the crop. This means that when rearranging any lenses from FF to crop, one should expect that the angle of view will decrease by 1,5 times. And if you don't have FF yet, then there is nothing to hammer in your head, all lenses on the crop will give a cropped angle of view while preserving the native perspective and other qualities.
Tell me, please, I myself got confused which adapter is needed to install this lens on a Kenon1100d camera? Will autofocus work?
No, autofocus will not work. Nikon and Kenon are slightly different systems, you see. On Kenon, something is better with the Kenon mount (Ef-S).
... good glass.
Good day! Help make a choice)
I have a younger d3100 carcass, but I wanted to change something. I photograph my family, friends, nature, in general, for domestic purposes)
I can not choose between 85 1.8d and the old carcass or changing the carcass to d7100 + Nikon 50 1.8d.
Advise what is better to choose)
Thanks a lot in advance!
on d3100 take 50 1.8G
Thank you so much, Arkady !!!
Good afternoon Arkady. Thank you for the great blog and valuable information that you share.
Please advise which lens is better to buy for Nikon d7200 (took along with the whale 18-140)? I looked closely at 1) Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor, 2) Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor, 3) Nikon 85mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. I would like to see a gain in quality in the pictures compared to the whale, including in portraits.
For crop 2 - station wagon, 3 - portrait.
Good afternoon. 50/85 is better for a portrait. All three lenses are different.
50 or 35 - see article here here. And better yet, under D7200 version 50 / 1.8G.
The increase in quality will be felt only when improving your skills.
Good afternoon, tell me if there is the same inexpensive, motorized lens, with manual and automatic iris, manual and autofocus, which will fit my D5300?
With a diaphragm ring and built-in motor, inexpensive ones are not. Is cheap YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 with built-in motor for d5300.
Hello Arkady, please help. I have this lens for a long time, first I used it on Nikon 3100, now on Nikon 300. Recently I stopped focusing. I don’t know what’s the matter. Unfortunately, I’m not strong in the settings (((here I’ll send a photo , focused on the number 17, in the viewfinder, I see this number sharp, but in the photo this turns out (((help please. thanks in advance
a bit wrong with the lens))) I have an AF-S Nikkor 50 mm 1.8
Before Tim, as a priest, I do the talking to myself, so I read the little eyes. Zvvychay, your gaze will be left and virish. So, having added two more objects, I am quiet even by them. :) Dyakuyu for you.
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor I bought in the chest of the past rock. Received a win for $ 65, implantation, in a miraculous camp, the same with a Nikon HN-2 metal hood. Vikoristovaya yogo wiklyuchno with plivkovy Nikon. On my dummy, tsi ob'yktivi, so they came to us from the era of plivkovoi, itself on plivtsi may have a special charm.
Observing miracles, absolutely transferring - I want to reject it for a sign, which I will reject itself. It’s even more important, for I can’t be surprised at the screen and the result. The image is readable, to navigate with the victorian super-cheap Kodak ColorPlus 200, which is popular for “low contour clarity”. Colors are natural and weed. An absolute must have.
Tse Amatorska Kodak ColorPlus 200:
Price of Kodak Professional TRI-X:
Igor, why do you need digitalization?
Photolaboratory. :)
I don’t get overwhelmed. Tse such a copy of the servant, I just create a bath in the photo studio in my place (135 type, process C-41) for development and scanning. I'll take it back every other day. I am sending it to Kiev (yakscho B / W, slide or medium format). The price is much better - from two types. Stink and digitize.
It's funny how, through a small block of months, the stench will remember you (there are no such crazy ones) and will be remembered to be seen before your frames, like to yours. :)
In hovering stocks, the color frame is scanned by Noritsu koki QSS-32_33.
B / W frame scanned by Nikon COOLSCAN V ED
I don’t have anything in total. Yakshcho tsikavo, beyond the reach of the song album, as if before the skin frame, you can marvel at the EXIF possession, schowed down:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/kiriloffski/2WM6sp
Acceptable bachiti frames of the city center in Radozhivі)))
Good and inexpensive lens! Long chose, read reviews, looked pictures on the site http://onfotolife.com/Home/lens_sample_photos?lens_name=Nikon%20Nikkor%20AF%2050%20mm%20f/1.8D&language=ru&page=1 and eventually bought and rejoice
On the D3300, there is no lever switch as on older models. How will the lens work in aperture priority or shutter priority modes ??
But there is a "focus mode" in the quick menu, select M and twist by hand. Metering works in the same way as with an AF-S lens.
It will work even if you do not select the focus mode M.
Will work the exact same way. If you mean the lever for switching the focus mode, which is located near the camera mount, then on the d3300 it is not there and AF lenses will always work in manual focus mode. If you mean the aperture lock button located on the lens, but on older lens models there is a snap button itself instead.
And another question .... Why is the price different for it in internet stores?
There are 2700-2800 UAH and there are under 4000 UAH.
On ALI, too, the price is 130-150 $
Ask the stores already. Typically, stores themselves do not know what they are selling, confusing models G and D.
Both exposure metering and manual focus confirmation will work on the D3300. The problem is that it will be possible to focus only with your hands. At 1,8 aperture (and for the sake of this aperture, they take half a half for an inexpensive crop) an exact hit in focus requires estate and skill. An alternative to this lens for inexpensive Nikon non-motorized cameras is the Chinese Yongnuo 50mm F1.8 lens, which already has a built-in focus motor and allows you to use all the functions of your camera. The quality of the lens is quite decent. Actually, it can be recommended as an inexpensive high-aperture fifty dollars for non-motorized cameras.
And after reading the reviews about the Chinese analogue, I realized ... that the quality is not all right there. There is looseness there, often misses. And this is no joke.
As for me, I’ll rarely shoot accurately, but somehow I’ll sharpen it with a tripod.
I even managed to catch a moving granddaughter on Helios.
By the half from YN I had no complaints at all on Nikon. I understand that the word China automatically causes a phobia for many, because I have seen a lot of flimsy and shaky things. But YN is not a brand name, but a very strong manufacturer. The halves are tightly assembled, the plastic is of high quality, the lenses and the enlightenment are decent. They are sharp from the open, there are no more misses in focus due to the fault of the lens than in Nikkor. There is one drawback - sometimes it loses contact with the camera, but I rarely had it, so much so that I don't even consider it a disadvantage (but write, write everything as it is). The main thing is that the YN 50 is optically definitely better than Helios in the open, and, at least, not worse than the Nikkor 50 1.8D, but with autofocus for non-motorized cameras and at a very affordable price. You decide for yourself whether to catch focus with your hands at 1.8 or take autofocus. My eyes ache from long-term work with manual optics on a DSLR, on a mirrorless everything is easier and more convenient. Therefore, for a DSLR, I like autofocus lenses, and in general lenses with more or less working glasses and multi-coating from a fully open aperture.
Thanks for the extensive answer.
What have you heard about the Yongnuo 40mm f / 2.8
Several topics ask about 40mm. I held the YN50 and YN35 in my hands and shot a couple of thousand frames for each. Since there are Nikkor 50 / 1.8G and Nikkor 35 / 1.8G, there is an opinion how much YN is worse / better. I can speak about them and the conclusion is this: the YN 50 and 35 are quite worthy lenses, if the budget / tasks do not allow taking the native Nikkor. Relatives work somewhat better with their own camera (but in nuances that not everyone will catch or not everyone will give them importance). I sold both YN, but not because they are bad, just with a clear conscience - worthy for their price, but because they have relatives. In general, 50mm seems to me to be better in quality, but here who needs which focal length is more necessary. Can be combined: 50mm + native zoom for others, or 35mm and 50mm from YN. Here it is already a master's business, it depends on the goals and objectives. 50mm is more important to me, but 35 sometimes helps a lot. About YN 40mm, which I did not hold in my hands, I cannot say anything for sure, sorry.
I will say about China and the production of photographic equipment in China. Don't worry about that. According to statistics, more than 50% of the world's photographic equipment is manufactured in China. But here it is necessary to take into account the fact that, unlike most other products, photographic equipment from brands is not produced on OEM or ODM terms, that is, in Chinese factories ordered by Western or Japanese brands (for example, irons and most household appliances are produced in this way companies do not have their own factories and do not even create their own models, but simply buy from Chinese industrial design companies, the same iron is ultimately sold under different brands, starting from Philips and ending with Sanyo), but is produced at the factories of the companies themselves, specially built in China due to higher profits (please note - not because of the decrease in the cost of goods, but in order to maximize profits, saving huge money on the wages of Japanese or Western workers, but not reducing the retail prices of their goods. Another example - Apple, who practically lives in China, but the retail prices of their products are constantly rising!). That is, with regard to photographic equipment from branded manufacturers, it does not matter where it was produced. What matters is how it was designed and put into production. It comes to the point that penny lens hoods are produced in Fillipins and then imported to China, so pennies are saved, but big companies always go to any savings. This lens does not even come with a rubber hood or a normal back cover, which together cost (for bulk purchases!) About $ 0,5. But the consumer can be calm about the quality - it would be exactly the same if it was produced in Japan or even in Germany. There is another trick - sometimes manufacturers produce goods in Japan or Germany, and in order to increase the price for the buyer, they specially make some improvements to the specification of the goods in order to once again use the stereotypes associated with the great quality of products made in Japan or Germany. So the buyer bites on such a simple trick and overpays 3-4 times more for a 5% “increase” to the real value of the product. By the way, in 2017, Nikon closed his plant in China, as he cannot find cheap labor here, and moved it to Vietnam or the Philippines.
Tell me, I recently bought this lens on my Nikon D90. For some reason, something is wrong with the sharpness. Maybe in the settings what to change, do not tell?
I shot it in the afternoon on the street, with aperture of 5, for example, shutter speed as much as 1/4000, the smallest, but there is no sharpness and that's it.
THIS ... is this what?
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
And not in all photos, but in most. Somewhere there are sharp pictures.
Are you in focus?
So it seems to me that I don’t get the focus exactly. When I used other lenses before, including manual ones, there was no such problem. If this is the problem, what exactly do I need to do? At the moment, I am looking for an answer on the internet, do not consider it a fool)))
I just have not encountered such moments before.
Check for focus on an oblique target, you can improvise.
I want to take this lens on the d5200, how critical / problematic is the lack of auto focus for a novice photographer?
The price will be more problematic for you. You can take the g-version a little more expensive or the ai-version is much cheaper. love for a particular lens is incomprehensible
g version is not a little more expensive, but at least 2 times more, and this is noticeable. But shooting at 1.8D in manual focus due to its awkward focus ring is a bad option. It is better then to take an analogue from Youngnuo if the question is in price.
He also took it in his time because of the money, focusing on the d3100 did not notice any difficulties - the rangefinder tells in which direction and how much to turn the ring. And then I put it on d50 - class!
Well, 2 times, and if in the tugriks measure it is not much. Fifty dollars are cheap on their own. And if it’s expensive, what not to take the AI version? Why overpay for AF?
And if you measure in yuan? (Why - I don't know) AI versions are rare on Avito, and cost no less than 1,8D.
The lack of autofocus is noticeable. If you already have a d5200 and a full-time lens, turn off the automatic focus on it (put the lens in manual focus mode) and take only 1-2 days in this mode.
You know how to convince :) For example, the focus ring on 18-55 GII is made, in my opinion, just for show: very narrow, plastic with a light notch, taken far forward, rotates only 45 degrees, if I'm not mistaken. Given the dark viewfinder, the beginner simply does not have a chance to get into focus, even though he has a wider depth of field at F 3,5-5,6 compared to F 1,8.
Unless to shoot landscapes. On a dark whale 28-80, the manual focus is the same as on 18-55. At 50 1.8D, the ring is slightly thicker and rotates somewhere 90 degrees (does not make a half-turn). Although everything is relative, I sometimes shoot on Sigma 70-300 in manual focus and everything is fine, although there the move is somewhere around 45 degrees, but there the ring is wide, it’s convenient to twist, maybe because of this.
However, focusing your hands on 1,8D is not exactly the same as focusing your hands on 18-55. In any case, taking a non-motorized lens to a non-motorized camera in the presence of analogues with a motor is not worth it, unless you know exactly how you will continue to work with it.
This lens is not much better. It’s also subtle and the course is 90 degrees, which, given the smaller flu and the same dark viewfinder, it will be difficult to visit.
A sensor for getting into focus to help you (a circle bottom-left in the JVI).
Oh well
On the BZK, I get into focus with the handles on the open 50mm 1,4D. On a whale 18-55 GII DSLR at 5,6 with difficulty.
Thanks everyone for the answers! there is a difference in price, for today there are three options D for 2000 UAH bu but good condition, G bu from 4500-5000 prices start, and the third option is to take a new G ... so I think what to do ... the new one is not very affordable of course ((, but damn if we look at g, then it's better to take a new 5600-6200 ... still faced with such a situation that there are two options with a guarantee from Nikon-5600 and a guarantee from the 6200 store, is it worth the risk?
Whether it is worth the risk is up to you. I recommend 50 / 1.8G.
The new Nikkor 50 / 1.8G is definitely the best solution. Firstly, in itself it is a good lens, fast aperture and quite sharp in the open. It has a nice color rendering, is quite acceptable for aberrations, there is practically no distortion. For Nikon cameras, it is native, i.e. there will be full interaction (including the transmission of the focus distance) and image adjustment. Secondly, there are few complaints about his work, he serves for a long time and with good handling can survive several cameras (especially since he is also suitable for full-frame).
This lens is doubly critical because of the thin focus ring and its small stroke. It is very inconvenient to use, except to shoot only at infinity. If the lens has a wide focus ring and a large stroke, then it’s easy to adapt, the dynamics are uncomfortable, but static objects are quite.
this lens is Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
Not needed. See the review on this site Yongnuo 50mm F1.8. On Ali there are for 4 - 200.
Hi all!
How to check for lack of backing or front focus when buying a lens?
A 30cm image of a ruler located at an angle of 45 degrees at a distance of a meter of the camera is taken at the open aperture. Zero closer to the camera, 30cm further from the camera. Whether the line can be put at an angle or put on a table and take a picture at an angle.
We aim at the 15cm figure on the rulers (i.e. the middle), we aim by autofocus at the center point. Then we look at the picture: is the sharpness really at 15? If the figure is 15 cm and a little sharp around it, then everything is OK, the lens does not suffer from backing or front focus.
If the sharpness fell on a section of the ruler closer or further, for example, the number 12cm or 18cm, then there are problems.
Some carcasses allow you to adjust autofocus in the menu settings.
Focus on some mark of a surface inclined from the direction of the camera, remove (the aperture is open, the distance from the camera to the object being shot is small - for a smaller field of focus), check the picture. If the focus is on the target mark, everything is in order. For example, you can put a ruler on the table and take it off at an angle, focusing on a specific number.
if you focus on the ruler, it’s not clear what exactly the camera will focus on, however, the focus area is not a point, but most likely a square of certain sizes
so I tested it like this: I took a sheet of paper, put a ruler along the side, and in the middle - a felt-tip pen with inscriptions (across), it is convenient that there was a barcode on the felt-tip pen and was aiming at this felt-tip pen
Thank you for your advice and attention!
Buy a fifty kopeck bragging!
Now I would like to make a choice 1.8G or 1.8D ...
The choice is simple - the new G version is unambiguous.
Good day. For about a month since I purchased 50mm 1,8d, I am satisfied with everything and everything corresponds to what Arkady told in the review.
In the process of using, I noticed the following nuance - even with a fully open aperture of 1,8, when I look into the lens and press the depth-of-field view, I see how the aperture is just slightly covered.
That is, when we focus, it is open even more than the value of 1,8 for this lens.
It would be interesting to try to take a picture in this position of the diaphragm, but how to physically do this is not clear to me.
Of course, there isn’t much sharpness at 1,8, and maybe it will be even less at fully open, but I would like to try it.
Maybe someone knows how to do this.
How many with 50 / 1.8d did not work, never saw such. And I had this lens was not one and not on one camera. Can you remove the video recorder on the phone about what exactly is happening with you?
shot a video, here is the link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDaxv7la-DU
by the way, I tried to remove from this position in the following way, manually set the aperture to 1,8 (there are two positions, namely 1,8 - it is also covered as it covers the camera, and a little bit next to it is a half click - it is fully open)
the lens in the camera mount has acquired, so to speak, so that there is no communication through the contacts.
thus took a photo in manual mode.
I didn’t notice the difference in light, but the circles in the blur zone are even.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kG1pSHONf0j9y3yIThuiwPgKsY1vDio-
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jgv6pTNP_OMHPMfC2W9YIBiFfzpJuDWv
Thanks. Nikon repeater has glitches, as well as glitches with petals, described here.
Just try to set the shutter speed to 10 seconds and see what happens during the shooting (without any additional manipulations).
I think it makes no sense, because in circles in the zone of not sharpness it is clear that when shooting ha 1.8 it slightly covers as with the repeater
Good day. I have such a situation with this lens. If I shoot a person close (for example, a large-plate or chest portrait) with autofocus, everything is ok. But one has only to step back to capture in full growth begins to issue back focus in almost 90%. Do not tell me what could be the problem? Does this situation need to be adjusted? I shoot on the D90.
Good evening Arkady.
Lack of sharpness on the aperture 1.8-2.8 was attributed to the lens flaw, and some sharp test shots (on the D70) have excellent sharpness at 1.8, including portraits.
Do you have to buy a D70?
Another question (I repeat with other comments) - is there a Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor lens, and this Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor, if purchased with the D80, will be a good addition or not? That is, for an amateur it will not hurt, given the inexpensive price?
The sharpness on the open in the case of this glass, oddly enough, also depends on the specimen. I had 2 pieces. The first one was very “soapy” at 1.8, normal sharpness started from 2.8, fine adjustment of autofocus on the carcass (D7000) did not help. After losing the first one, I bought a used one, adjusted autofocus on the carcass (there was a strong back focus with my camera) and, lo and behold, excellent sharpness on the open one, almost like Helios 81H!
Conclusion - you need a carcass with the function of fine tuning the autofocus + watch each individual instance.
Understood, then by mail do you advise against buying this lens?
Do not look for very sharp aperture lenses in the open among the budget. Just keep in mind that sharpening is not at all difficult. And there are many different ways to do this.
Excellent sharpness on the open, almost like on the Helios 81H? Only the G81N in the open is not particularly sharp, and it has good sharpness from 2,8. Just a Nikon 50mm 1.8D on an open slightly cutter G81N will be. And noticeably better than this pair on an open Nikon 50mm 1.8G.
It looks like you have an unsuccessful instance of Helios 81n. My 2 pcs is open like a razor.
Give an example of your "razor" look.
Clarification on my question - on the D70 you used the MKII version (Japan), is this version better than the MKIII in your opinion?
Tell me, on an open such a lens can be used in commercial photography?
Or will there be soap soap?
It depends on what you’ll shoot, on which camera, how to process it and how to evaluate it.
I plan to shoot a portrait in small rooms. There are 28 1,8 and 80-200 2,8; I want to try fifty dollars, but I don't want to overpay, since I will rarely use it. Arkady, give advice on which of 50 mm, in my case, will be the optimal price and quality. From what can be seen from the reviews 50 1,8G is too harsh, 50 1.8D is soapy on the open + there are still disadvantages but the price !!, 1,4d maybe? 1,4g is a little expensive.
Good day. 50 / 1.8G the most balanced
Thanks for the quick response. I will consider.
For commerce and inexpensively exactly 1,8G. True, you get a little strange: 1.8G is harsh, and 1.8D is soapy. Usually they are looking for either a cut or a softer one, but here it seems that both did not please. There is also the YN50 F1.8, which can be put between these and is cheap, but not for commercial filming.
how much does this 50 hit to infinity? in conjunction with d600, the tree at 20 meters at infinity is already miserable, and in general the landscapes are soapy in the distance (
on d3200 + 1,8g landscapes are generally a razor in the distance ...
You are comparing incorrectly.
Any lens on the crop “falls off” problem corners and edges due to the crop factor.
On the 3200 matrix there seems to be no filter yet, so pictures with 50 / 1.8G seem so sharp.
Borrow a D810 or D850 and shoot with 50 / 1.8G.
It is not entirely clear that with the D600 you have a D series lens (which is written about in the article) or a G series lens. If D series, then everything is clear - clamp the aperture on the landscape to 8-9. If the G series behaves this way ... then perhaps the Sigma 50 / 1.4 ART will seem sharper
yes d series, shot on 5-5.6, well ok try 8-9
I put 35g on d600 yesterday in the dh mode, the airtime was equal, I clicked on open ones, it looked like 50d it would be clearer)
Hello.
Tell me how to use the distance scales and the depth of field on this lens.
There are several marks where, by scrolling the focus ring, you can observe how some numbers coincide with these marks in two positions. But what they mean, I do not understand.
Thank you.
Between these two positions (marks) there will be a zone of sharply depicted space.
Maybe a little off topic, but maybe someone has such a lens in analysis, a contact group with a loop is really needed, or can someone tell me where to buy ...