I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I've done this 120 times already, write the text, insert the link and nothing ... Is there an opportunity to throw you somewhere else?
So, I looked at the photo on the link. I did not see any malfunctions in the Nikon D90 camera there. Most likely you want to get “softness”, “unnecessary or necessary colors” and others right from the box, but this should not be expected from the D90 2008 release and the budget fifty kopeck piece. Often, the desired result can be obtained only by picking RAW, and not everyone can do it.
Yes, I want a softer picture without extra colors, so this camera is not suitable for this? Or sit days and nights to study the intricacies of the rabbis, sell everything if possible and buy a new comp.? I understand that a lot of people like to crochet, but when you go to a wedding, you take 500 pictures, and then? If you don’t know how to work with these subtleties, then after half a year people will receive these pictures, if at all they will receive them in normal quality, and I’ve changed lenses, it’s not about them
Looked at the photo. I did not see any crime. Well dude in the last photo is out of focus and that’s it.
Well, almost all the photos are slightly overexposed, about 1/3 stop approximately, not critical in general.
I didn't see any contours, extra colors - 50% because of the camera (better processing is needed), 50% because of the light when shooting (you need better light quality), the softness of the picture is achieved, for example, with a soft filter or spherical aberration (maybe Is a monocle suitable for you?).
And in general, show a photo (not yours, any) where everything is exactly as you like, maybe we can tell you what technical means to achieve this.
I have never heard before that a new computer, say for $ 2000, will give different colors than the old one for $ 200. 10 times slower - yes. Let's say 500 photos will be processed not for an hour and a half, but 10 minutes. But certainly not six months.
So he put a correction +2/3 stop
Ahh, well, I didn’t open the exifs.
Take a photo on the example of a page, smoother transitions of shadows, though I don’t know, they were played with retouches, no, but in the frames I did not notice sharp lines between the shadow and the light. I just ask you to help with the settings, because at one point there is more yellow, in another magenta, in the third, the green one climbs, I tried both neutral and played with white balance, and with sharpness, and the transition in the shadows is like a knife.
Nobody will help you, because the picture will be different in different conditions. It is impossible to obtain the same result with different light and the scene being filmed, with different people by manipulating only the camera settings. Most likely you want something that the camera cannot provide you. There is only one way out - to delve into the world of photography on the sly. This is trivial advice, but nothing else.
As for the photo in the examples, it is written in black and white “without processing”.
Ah, well, it's just such a light. Achieve the same - and you will have the same picture.
In general, this can often be heard from beginners, they say, my camera is faulty - it focuses poorly, overexposures, under-highlights, no sharpness, back focus, front focus, pale colors, faces green, blue, red, permanent blur, or in general - the shutter does not work. And then - Nitsche, someone reads the instructions, someone goes to the photocars, and who - himself in the end, reaches everything.
Most likely, the person had in mind the color rendition of the monitor, IPS monitor, for more precise control of correction when processing photos. On a cheap laptop according to the reviews of people this can not be achieved, i.e. this can be edited, so that later, when handing or sending the photo, you can also get it in the neck) I hope I could clearly express my thought.
This is from the series that the pros handle the whole thing on APPLE monoblocks, I think everyone knows about licensed software for this brand?
Snapshots are processed in batches. And programs such as Adobe LightRoom contain several tools that simplify this task - for example, there is a sorting of shots into batches, each of which can then be processed with its own parameters. General correction itself is not so time-consuming, but serious retouching and local correction of difficult situations take a lot of time. In any case, half a year is not wasted, but really a lot of work is invested: correcting 1000-2000 images is still a job.
Advise what parameters you need to enter for a softer, correct image.
I also looked at the photos. In short, you have to practice. Essentially: Overexposures: Active D-Lighting can remove them a bit and bring up shadows, the “harsh transitions” you write about soften. Profile - choose “Portret” or “Neutral”, it will also make the skin smoother and soften natural unevenness. Sharpness can be added a little, saturation for a portrait usually does not need to be added, in some cases you need to decrease it. White balance - if in auto the color of faces goes from green to red, which is the case, select at least a preset depending on the lighting. Not to the point, but still: try while learning to maintain the format of the portrait (head and shoulders, 3/4, full-length + work with a simple pose); choose the background carefully; follow horizontal and vertical lines, avoid blockages; some shots lack sharpness due to focus miss and camera shake (watch this).
I bought Godox Xpro-N + X1R-N, the TTL mode does not work on the D90 with the Sb-700. A terrible overexposure. I came across infa that the same problem with the D7000 D5200. I checked with a friend on the D610, everything works fine. I think this problem is for all crop cameras. Has anyone encountered such a problem?
Nikon D90 is an excellent DX-camera for advanced amateurs, combining the functionality of professional cameras and allowing to significantly save on optics.
The Nikon D90 is a great device for all my needs. I have it for over 5 years and I have no complaints about it. But recently I got caught in heavy rain. Moreover, the device was in a backpack. The backpack got wet, and of course the device also got a little wet. At home, I took off the lens, pulled out the memory card, the battery, opened all the covers and left to dry. Three days later I collected it, turned it on. Everything works except for the main monitor. Those. He is dead. I don't understand how this could have happened. After all, rainwater is distilled. Nothing should be closed there.
The reason is precisely in getting wet (forget the version that rain shouldn't have damaged your camera). Bring it to the service.
You are apparently very unlucky. Sympathizing.
My D90 fell in the rain with snow on the mountain when I stormed it and another time in heavy snow at high humidity.
Both times it was enough to remove the lens and open all the covers and dry it under a kondeem overnight, before wiping it dry. D90 lacks dust and moisture protection. My advice is not to suffer and sell for parts. A thing after domestic repair always works worse than before. My advice is to get rid of the camera and buy a replacement for D90 - d7000 or d7100.
About the service (including company) I fully confirm. Our normally can not collect.
Hello! I, a photographer from time to time (family holidays and outings), the owner of Nikon D 90. Now it became necessary to buy a telephoto camera for a trip on a safari, I am considering the Superzoom Sigma 135 - 400mm on a Nikon used or Nikon AF-S DX 55 lens -300mm f4.5-5.6G ED VR.
55-300 would be perfect. At the very same, up to 230 mm is quite acceptable quality. Take a new one, so there would be no surprises.
Good day! Maybe you can help with advice on what to do with the skewed shots of my D90. When shooting, I align the object with the viewfinder grid, while I see that the apparatus has to be held not horizontally but with a tilt to the left. I tried to shoot by setting the device on a tripod with a level, but the pictures are obtained with a slope of about 17 degrees (measured on the ACDSee grid), and with the hand and tripod results are close. Maybe you advise what to do, because Tired of editing every shot. Thank you in advance for any help.
Tell me please! Can I configure the OK button to enlarge the image when viewing, like other cameras?
On d90 it is impossible, as well as on younger cameras.
Hello. Please help me make a decision: I am a novice amateur, I’m very enthusiastic in the coming ones, and I have already figured it out in many ways, I’m shooting at 95% in manual mode. My wife got a D5000 (mileage 25000) with 18-55 and 55-200 lenses, I planned to buy 50 / 1.8G in the near future, but I got the idea to buy a used D90 instead, sell a D5000 carcass and buy 50 / 1.8 for this money D. For the money then it will come out. Thus, with a screwdriver, I can save some on lenses in the future and get much more convenient control of settings, better autonomy, better viewfinder and display. In addition, I would like to try high-speed flash synchronization when shooting portraits in the afternoon in bright light.
The question is: do all of the above be logical, or have I missed something important, and is there at least one reason to just buy 50 / 1.8G and in the future (if I don't lose my enthusiasm) put it on a more modern camera? Thank you in advance for your answers.
It’s more pleasant to work with the d90, but the quality of the pictures will be almost identical. I would change :)
Thank you, Arkady. I bought the D90 on the same day, and now I enjoy studying the “new” camera. I couldn't take it outside yet. I bought it for 8000 Russian rubles, but with a mileage of 80 thousand. However, judging by its appearance, they used it carefully. I don't sell D5000 yet. So far, the main sources of euphoria are the display, ergonomics and the increased CWS :)))))
Health to all!
I want to ask the luminaries of the shooting for advice.
I have a Nikon D 90, a couple of portraits, a manual and a car, + rings for macro. But I really want to take pictures of natural landscapes and urban architecture. But I can not decide on the optimal landscape lens for this camera.
Maybe, pay my attention to a couple of good eyes in order to correctly invest and enjoy the shooting results?
Thank you in advance!
Look at the width of Tokina. 11-16, 11-20, 12-24, 12-28 and similar to Sigma.
Thank you!
And from 11 will not distort much? Indeed, in fact, distortions are already going from 16….
Distortions are different. If we are talking about distortion, then it is treated by any built-in profile in the RAW processor. If we are talking about perspective distortions, then you need to be able to work with them. Only tilt-shift lenses can fight them at once :)
It is treated, but with a decrease in detail, it is better when there is less distortion)
Yes, when the space stretches, the filling goes through interpolation. Sometimes, not only the detail is reduced, but also by treating the curvature of large elements, small ones begin to change shape. I agree with Mikhail that the smaller it is, the easier it is to work with it. If desired, the fish-eye can be "straightened", but the results will not be the same as with a normal lens. And for amateur shooting Sigma 10-20 different versions for 10-14 thousand can be found.
Met a corrupt TokinaAT-X PRO12-24, read your review on it:
https://radojuva.com/2012/04/obzor-tokina-at-x-124-pro-dx-ii-12-24-f4/
What do you think, for 8.000 is it worth taking on my Nick D-90?
What are these tugriks? If in wood, then for the price and the first version does not sell, very cheap. There will be distortions on an ultra-wide angle, one must learn to work with them and use them)
In racian rupees. Late, gone. Exactly the same, complete with Nikon D 70 give for 16.000. Without a carcass for 13.000.
Therefore, only these options remained:
Tamron 19-35mm f3.5-4.5 for nikon, used, 7.500 rub.
Tamron SP 11-18mm f / 4.5-5.6 Di II Aspherical Nikon, 13.000 rub.
Nikon 18-70mm f3.5-4.5g ed-if dx. Lens hood, box, case, 2 covers, with docks, practically new from Thailand, for 9.990 rub. But this is a station wagon, as I understand it.
With Sigma, too, not a lot, they offered a Sigma station wagon -
Sigma (Nikon) 18-200mm f3.5-6.3 HSM OS II, for 10.000
Yes, there is a reason to wrinkle your forehead ...))
Well, these are already similar prices. Sorry, you're out of luck. Tamrons are not very good, it is better to Sigma 10-20 4-5.6 or tokinu for now already 13. Universal for a wide angle should not be taken - 18 is not very wide and very poor in image - it is better to take a specialized lens. 19-35 shirik for FF, so it's not an option either
Thank you, Michael, I will consider.
Ognejar, there is also Sigma Zoom 15-30mm D 1: 3.5-4.5 DG EX Aspherical IF.
Arkady did not seem to scold him. The test is here on Radozhiv. It is not very expensive at flea markets.
Thank you, I entered the name in the buffer, I'll look at the St. Petersburg flea markets.
I had the first version of this glass on the Nikon D5100. Luxurious lens.
Very sharp, the distortion is not great. Only chromatic aberrations annoy, but they correct in the converter. Even without autofocus it is quite convenient to use.
Luxurious workmanship. A very durable reliable lens, it’s immediately clear what you give money for.
For 9000 rubles - this is a gift of fate.
Health to all!
And how do these nozzles behave:
58mm wide / macro adapter
http://www.pixelur.ru/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&category_id=49&flypage=flypage.tpl&lang=ru&page=shop.product_details&product_id=910&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
Who used it? Any opinion on their work?
There are many reviews. To summarize, there is not much point in indulging and throwing it out. Shirik is not replaced.
You know, although I’m still a teapot in photo-making, I also thought the same, especially after reading reviews of these Pribluda. If the macro like the pictures are not bad, then the nozzle wide openly twists.
Macro, in principle, is not bad for me from the manual through the nozzle rings. For starters, come down.
But passion is like hunting nature to shoot!
The device is beautiful. Perfect color reproduction, relatively accurate auto WB, excellent focusing, excellent ergonomics. Of the shortcomings, only ISO 400 (more - noise). With an external flash ittl indoors will give odds of 3xxx and 5xxx. In use there are 5100 and was 3200, with a lack of lighting they win (when processing with NEF), but it is easiest to achieve color reproduction, real (well, or natural) with the D90. My personal opinion.
Strange, he was also the owner of the d90 and was always sure that ISO800 was still working on this machine. Above 800, it depends on the shooting conditions.
And the colors of the d90 are not ideal when shooting in cloudy weather and in the dark.
I agree with Pokemon. Simply, each in its own way determines the working ISO and color. The base ISO of the D90 200, increasing it to 400 does not particularly affect the picture. ISO 800, of course, influences noticeably, but with a certain skill, it can be raised even higher, getting a good result. The D90 is also convenient because in addition to round ISO 400/800/1600, it allows you to choose intermediate (1/3 each). This allows you to more accurately work with ISO. In terms of color, usually, the D90 and its heirs are scolded, but, often, at the same time they are removed with an automatic warhead, other problems are not uncommon. With more accurate BB settings, as well as BB corrections (corrections are another plus) there is nothing wrong with the D90 color. I don’t really like how red is worked out (often goes to cut-offs), but in general everything is working.
I am harmful :) the noise on the iso 400 at the D90 still suits me (comparable to the D5100 at iso 800), but I don't like the higher one. In color - yes, it is not perfect, but it requires less fuss than with the same 5100. I repeat once again - I am harmful :)
And in cloudy weather, all Nikons warp colors into greens, while poisonous. I was convinced by the example of d90-d5100-d800. And BB is not correct, no matter what they say.
Even iso1200 can still be used, IMHO, if it is "attached" :)
Health to all! ✋
All is decided and took shirik Tokiny. Enjoy !!!
https://radojuva.com/2012/04/obzor-tokina-at-x-124-pro-dx-ii-12-24-f4/
Nikon D90 NEVER !!! not made in Japan. You can not read further.
Fixed
Hello! And with a native 18-105 lens, can you achieve a boke effect? What budget lens can I take to have a bokeh effect?
Yes, from 18-105 it is possible. Set 105mm focal length and F / 5.6 and shoot small subjects. Example.
Tell me how to be. I bought two years ago d 3200, I liked taking a picture, especially a portrait. I took a telephoto and Helios 81n friends. Own is only a whale 18-55. Now my friend left, I stayed with my whale. I really wanted to buy 85 1,8 g. But for the price bites. I would like to develop, I have an idea to sell 3200 and buy a D90 from my hands and it will be easier with lenses. Tell me, is it worth it? I love my 3200, but after a picture from a helix or a TV set, I am very sad from pictures from a whale. Or am I a krivoruk?
Buy Helios and be happy :)
Helios, of course, is good and beautiful, I shot it, in terms of experience and training, it's generally super - BUT. It is very difficult for me to shoot a portrait to the waist and with perfect sharpness in my eyes, if the conditions are not ideal - generally a pipe. From 10 frames 6-7 washes for me. Of course, it may be a matter of experience, but I'm damn wet while I'm working with him)) and it's hard for the model to endure my torment for so long. It's a pity to come home to tears and remove a great blurry frame.
I do not advise changing the camera. If 85 / 1.8G is expensive, buy 50 / 1.8G it is cheaper, for a portrait at 3200 is quite suitable. If he is expensive, then 50 / 1.8D, or helios 81n.
So the fact of the matter is that all "d" for 3200 will not work. Or am I confusing something? I will buy 50 1,8 g, for example. (I will pull it) but I will want telquik, 85-ku in the future. And this will be too much for me 100%.
I wrote about the helik above. I like it, but in terms of leisurely home shooting. When you need to quickly catch a frame - kapets.
Well, you have already decided: -3200, + d90 + 50 / 1,8d, and then 80 / 1.8d or something like that. Meet the seller d90, spin, click on your own SD card, whether you like it. IMHO, portraits will be better on d80, d200.
Yes, D will also not have autofocus. If you want 85, save on it, only third-party lenses are more affordable, you can look at them. Somewhat cheaper than 85 / 1.8G, they sell 24-85 / 3.5-4.5 G VR (about 17t.r.), a decent lens on the crop. If you want to use cheaper lenses without a motor, but you need autofocus, change to a camera with an autofocus motor, but it is better not to the D90, but the D7000. It can be found for TR 15-17, which is quite comparable with the prices of the D90.
Has Lori gone head-on from recommendations? And then we can add.
Add of course, all the recommendations are brewed in my head, you look, they will lead to the right conclusion. I seriously thought about the option with d7000. Indeed, at a price of 90 near, and the description is intriguing.
Health to all! ✋
Gentlemen, comrades boyars, please advise a good eye for my Nikon D 90, for macro photography. So that the best combination of quality / price, because I can’t afford to buy glamor, orphan.
And then the rings on the manual eye are very troublesome - either remove the bacteria, or a general plan from 45 cm. Of course, I vary the thickness of the rings, but still, the pictures are extremely rarely successful.
Hello, I'm learning to take pictures. There is a budget to take this unit, but is it so good compared to, for example, the canon 200d for beginners?
Both fotiks are good.
EXCELLENT MATERIAL
Hello! I have a question about the glasses and the sharpness on them. I have whale 18 - 105, 70 - 200 1: 4 (at the long end the focus does not reach infinity) and Helios 81H. Actually a question on the back-focus. Because the whale and Helios have it. Once I bought 35 1: 1.8, he also had a bk focus. I am so unlucky with the glasses, or something is already wrong with the camera. Maybe it makes sense to clean the matrix, mirrors and the autofocus sensor?
Back focus on Helios? The sense of cleaning can and does exist, if dirty, as well as adjust the camera along with a specific lens.
VERY GOOD MATERIAL
Very good, informative article. The author tried 5+ Of the comments a lot of things emphasized. I bought a D90 yesterday with an eye of milk or 35mm 1: 1,8g. Before that I used the camera on the phone)))) In general, as I understand it, I have a long and difficult path ahead. Tell the poor fellow: what is better to shoot with this lens? And advise in the future what is better to buy in order to shoot nature, archetypes at long distances, in short I live in a forest, there are no people here, animals also do not pose, but from far away to shoot animals? Today I tried this optics definitely not fit.
Nikkor 35mm 1,1,8g
For long distances, something like this: https://radojuva.com/2015/10/sigma-170-500-5-6-3-d-apo/
"Tell the poor fellow: what is better to shoot with this lens?" - And what you see through the peephole, then shoot, this is the most universal fix for a crop. Previously, cameras with a similar lens were sold - zeniths, vigilant, etc. Cropping, composition, etc. - for your creativity. With depth of field (aperture value), shutter speed, etc. figure it out along the way. As for shooting from afar, here you need a telephoto lens, preferably autofocus and with a stub, for Nikon it is (by age price) Nikkors 55-200VR, 55-300, 70-300VR. Success on a difficult, but full of discoveries (and spending) path.
Thank you!
I switched from D3100 to D90, because FP-synchronization and an autofocus motor became lacking.
In general, I like the D90, but sometimes I start to regret selling the D3100. The D90 is bigger, heavier. He has a charger with a long cord, and not a compact one. The handle on the right on the D3100 has a rubber insert, and on the D90 it is plastic. But what is really annoying: the metering of the exposure is somehow very strange. When spot metering in a dark area, the camera takes the image in slightly warm tones. Contrast and saturation are clearly higher. With spot metering on the bright area, the colors are correct. On the D3100, the colors were always the same in any measurement. I used the same lens with disabled additional camera settings.
There is still a feature of my D90. Lenses with their own motor focus clearly, and AF lenses without their motor give back focus. I sin on the AF system itself. I don’t know how it works. Maybe the inertia of the motor exists, the motor itself can crank, and the system thinks that the image is focused.
In general, I’m satisfied with the purchase, I’m used to the additional screen, it’s convenient. Convenient quick settings for everything you need. Convenient two scroll wheel. Although in general and without all this, you can easily do.
On my Dashing-90m, initially all the lenses were back-focused, with and without a motor.
Ivan, if you regret selling d3100 - buy for inexpensive from a number of d40, 40x, 60, preferably from 18-55 non-VR, - for walks, hikes, to the beach, etc., it is not a pity and not hard. And the pictures will pop up even better than the d90th.
Good afternoon! Tell me, I want to buy Nikon D90 + 18-105 VR exclusively for amateur photography, or can I get something old on a Nikon D50 / D80 type CCD with a whale 18-55 + 50 mm 1.8D? At a price about the same turns out. Where will the photo quality advantage be?
I have something to add here, it seems to me some kind of abugawa
And where else?