I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Sample photos on Nikon D90
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Example photo on Nikon D90
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
Photo on Nikon D90
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
Photo on Nikon D90
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
Photo on Nikon D90
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
Nature photo on Nikon D90
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
Nikon D90 photo
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
Photo on Nikon D90
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Photo at Nikon D90
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Photo at Nikon D90
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good day! Did you caress, like a vibrati camera with a budget of 200 green?
It is required for lovers of koristuvannya, photographing landscapes, burning (so є a frequent guest in the mountains) and also інші ob'єkti))).
I will have enough d90 and I can do D40 and what kind of add-on.
Dyakoy garno)
It’s just that it’s photography (without video) the same landscape, if it’s even more important factor KOLORU
then more beautifully with a CCD matrix - D 40, and even more beautifully D50, D70s D80 - more stink of a wiggle and it can be victorious
any autofocus about ”Nikon lens” of all time “
What is your recommendation for a lens for a landscape with a screwdriver? On the crop, it seems, is not relevant. But the extra weight-size for the one going to the open air - it will be noticeable. So I would take from the younger series. For SSD-colours: 6, and 10-megapixel SSD matrices, of course, somewhat “fantasize” in colors, as a rule interesting and nice, from the minus - a small DD, the sky is easier to knock out, the shadows are in black, but not critical ... Since Yuri does not have enough for d5200, and even for d5100, you can stop at d40 and d3000 (everything is in good condition), and the lens will fit 18-55, I have 18-55 ED II (not VR), for my opinion is the best whale that I have tried.
Hello everybody! What do you think, is it worth taking for 15t.r. D90, with whale 18-105, mileage 24000? In appearance in the ad whole, neat
If everything is working, then it’s worth it.
I use my d90 for 3 years, it satisfies everything. I advise you to take if you still think. The last of the Mohicans, as they say.
How times are changing! Now shooting video is a must for cameras. And they shoot mostly with manual focus.
Thank! Very useful and most importantly understandable.
Hello, if the camera is from Germany then it will be Russian? Well, or at least English?
Good afternoon. You can select one of the main languages from the menu.
Thank you
an excellent camera, I had until recently, sold, ideally, for 25k frames, took 600k. The camera appeared before all this shit about skinton. I agree with all of the above, except for video filming. It was more correct to write - “Who is interested in watching videos with noisy, inaccurate and slowing autofocus”
Mileage is very small, was it worth it to change? I don’t agree about the video: the autofocus problem is important, but not the main one. Worse, the very quality of the video from the D90 is mediocre, in my opinion, just bad. Without autofocus, I’ll shoot a lot of things, but I don’t want to shoot a video like with the D90. But along with the video, the camera got a pretty decent LiveView mode with contrast focus, and this is already good for photography (compared to previous models).
Good optics are needed for 600 matches.
Now d7000 is the most on Avito. Just bestby.
For 20-25 thousand you can find good specimens. d7100 somewhere only from 35 good start.
This is often a waste of money. Beginners who buy the D7000 cannot fully use its potential, they would be better off with a simpler and cheaper device. And more advanced ones often already have +/- models close to the functional. In general, more than from changing the camera can be squeezed out of good optics, light and the development of skills.
The D90 is a very good device, for a beginner, at first, it will be enough with his head (like any other camera).
I disagree with you Valentine! Why is everyone singing that 600ku needs good optics? If you crop its matrix 2.25 times, like DX, you get 10.6 megapixels. Tell me, is D80 picky about optics? I bought the D90 with the first DSLR in 2009, I knew its functionality very well and why I needed it, when I started to miss some goodies I thought about changing the camera. But if a person just decided to buy a DSLR to indulge in, then yes - and D40 is enough to play around.
Pawel
I fully support you.
If you have a D90 since 2009, then you, I think, are well aware of its capabilities and disadvantages.
I also have a D90, only since 2010. And for me personally, the purchase of FF after the D90 was a great incentive for further development.
I am well aware that the skills of a photographer, the ability to work with light are much more important (for most scenes), somehow there are camera buns or sensor size.
Nevertheless, a camera upgrade can motivate for further development (or maybe not, everything is individual), and it is precisely this that is more valuable (in my opinion) than the presence of certain lotions in the new camera.
For some, motivation is enough to hone skills with the old camera for decades, while someone blindly believes that only a new super-duper camera is needed for masterpieces. For me, it’s more important to love what you do and try to develop in your favorite direction regularly.
If the D600 is sprinkled twice, then it will no longer be the D600 - in short. Good optics will not hurt on any camera: its contribution is difficult to overestimate. For high-end cameras, all the more you need good optics, otherwise there is simply no point in spending money on an expensive camera. The advantages of the picture that can be extracted from a cool camera will simply be killed by primitive optics.
This time I absolutely agree with you. No wonder they say - buy a lens, and a camera for delivery. I did the wrong thing - on the contrary)). Now I will sell the crop Nikkor 18-200 left over from D90, and I will take at least kit 24-85, otherwise with a polynomial 1.4D and 35-80 for 1.5k rubles, my camera, as you say, is killed by primitive optics)) Although in skillful hands .... And yes 600ku is not considered a high-end camera ((
Valentine:
Not always like this.
If you buy, figuratively, d610, and for delivery, for example, an old motorless Sigma EX DG 24-70 / 2.8, then this is more than enough for an amateur. The difference in price with the new Nikkor 24-70 / 2.8G will be very strong, but the difference in the picture will not be at times.
It's the same with the D7000 - these cameras are now worth a penny.
And it makes no sense to save and seek out the D90 or D5100 in good condition.
And about buying expensive glass, and a carcass for delivery ... well, it's like learning to ride classics on killed Zhiguli - buy d3400 and 24-70 / 2.8G + 70-200 / 2.8G to it. And then they are afraid to go outside. glasses cost several monthly salaries.
It seems to me that in everything it is better to look for a middle ground and buy ultra-expensive new Nikkors, perhaps not bad for the future, but to take off, you need to now and are not afraid to go outside or wet the glass.
I’m doing just that, saving up for a lens, selling old crop lenses and walking with Nikkor 35-80 4-5.6. Damn his sharpness rolls over, like in fixes, allows all 24mp (even I like boke) I will not sell, let it remain as a spare.
Good evening) I acquired this miracle with a mileage of 14000 frames, everything is as good as new, but there is a problem, if I shoot while looking at the screen, it focuses somehow strange, very long and slow (lens 50 1.8) and when I press the button to take a photo, shutter clicks twice. Is this normal or is it a breakdown, owners of d90, tell me, please. If I take off looking through the peephole everything works fine, quickly and with focus all the rules in the photo.
Madam! Focusing on Lifeview sucks. In this mode, contrast pickup is used, and in normal mode, phase sensors are used. This is not a soap dish, if you please squint one eye and look at the JVI. Otherwise, you need some kind of Olympus there, everything is fine.
Madame can squint one eye without any problems, which she does! I checked all the functions of the camera for performance and could not understand what the problem was, whether it was a breakdown or the norm. I Life View and was not going to use it, but I would not want to know that I bought a camera with a breakdown, that's why I ask.
There, it is not the shutter that clicks into live view, but the mirror - first lowers, then rises again, after recording the file. Therefore, two separate clicks. In normal mode, it quickly rises and falls - you can hear it as one click. What you described is the norm
Thank you very much for the answer, otherwise I was already upset that something was wrong with him, they reassured me.
Anna, since the camera is new to you, you yourself cannot know exactly how it works. But a lot is described in the instructions, which are not so complicated. It says, “Autofocus is slower in live view.” Further, “The camera may be unable to focus in the following situations,” see page 47.
Not upset
Don't be upset that the live view is slow. It has its advantages. For accurate focusing with manual lenses, with autofocus aperture optics (at F1.4), with doubts about the accuracy of the focus of the lens, Live view is sometimes very useful.
Your camera works as the manufacturer intended. Excellent ph. Recently, my friend asked to play with a DSLR, calls in an hour and asks - “how to take pictures?”, I explained to him - you look through the peephole and take pictures, he says that it is not convenient to sight, it is better through the screen. Well, I told him how to use the live view, he spat and said that this brake is inconvenient, autofocus is buggy, and in general he wants to apply filters to the created picture just like on a phone, as a result he bought a compact.
Some kind of phenomenal snobbery.
Rodion, for a long time I wanted to ask, there is a 35KP-1.8 / 75 lens, nothing more sensible has been written, like a projection projector, but as it was not applied to the mount, there is nothing to do except take a macro. What kind of lens is this and can I do something with a snake for use on a DSLR?
The entire 35KP series is suitable for DSLRs. It is possible that in your case you need to remove the extra millimeters of the rear - after all, there is often a lot of excess metal there.
This is the reality
Hello Arkady. In the D90 review, you provide a large list of lenses that were reviewed with test shots on the specified D90. Could you tell me which of the zoom lenses you liked the most in conjunction with the D90, I will repeat myself - well, very much. If possible, name the 2-3 best pictures in terms of detail and color reproduction. Only your rich experience with the D90 will help me, and many others, to decide on the best optics for the D90. I am writing this in connection with the fact that today this camera remains relevant for photographers of all ranks. Can you name your favorite zoom lens in conjunction with the D90? Well, of course, the question is not about expensive lenses, but about used lenses in the price segment 200-250 USD. The task is probably not an easy one, but for example, your review of the nikon d40 helped determine the choice of the nikon 18-70 dx, an excellent bundle and inexpensive.
Good afternoon.
Workhorses (these lenses are tasteless in themselves, but it’s very convenient to work with them): Nikon 17-55 / 2.8, Tamron 17-50 VC, Sigma 17-50 OS
Otherwise, any top-end optics for creativity on the D90 will be just right. I have no “like” or “dislike” as such. For every photo task, something will fit, something will not.
I highly appreciate the “boring” 70-200 / 2.8 and 80-200 / 2.8 and all 85s, but this is just my taste, which may in no way match your preferences. Now I'm reviewing the Yongnuo 100/2 and so far I'm under the impression that I consider it the best budget lens ($ 170 for the Yaga 100/2 vs. $ 1300 for the Nikon 105/2 DC).
A professional vein slips in your answer, mostly love fast lenses, which, alas, are expensive now. And from the dark inexpensive zoom lenses, but of high quality and with good color reproduction, what do you recommend?
Take a closer look at used Nikkor 28-105 / 3.5-4.5d or Sigma 24-135 / 2.8-4.5d lenses.
Alternatively used Sigma 28-70 / 2.8 ex or 24-70 / 2.8 ex dg.
Indicate the objectives of the lens and the budget for the purchase, otherwise it makes no sense to philosophize
I have indicated a budget of up to $ 250 for used. The lens is universal, that is, landscape, portrait and distant objects.
Then Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS, Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC will be just right, you can’t find anything better for this money, I indicated the same models in a previous message. You can still look at longer, but from a full frame, like Tamron 28-75 / 2.8, it’s easier to shoot a portrait with them. But it’s better not to mess with 3.5-4.5 lenses if you can take it with 2.8.
But, given that you already have an 18-70 station wagon, I would recommend something creative to him, pull up your belt and take 85 1.8d, as an option.
Thanks to Arkady and everyone who answered. Now there is something to ponder in terms of zoom. I thought that you, Arkady, would advise the dark, but high-quality made nikon 18-200 vr ii, but no, they didn’t advise, so they advised the best. But dark is it all relative, for example, if you make an exposure correction in plus 1-2 stops, or do I still understand it? And I have a nikon 35 1.8 dx fix, so I'm looking for a zoom. PS. Life has risen in price dramatically, especially with new lenses, forcing a responsible approach to the purchase of photographic equipment. Good times are gone.
Most likely, you still very much misunderstand the essence of exposure and lens aperture. If you want such a large set of focal lengths, then I can recommend sigma 18-250 or tamron 18-270 pzd, they are cheaper than the original 18-200, but not much worse, and even significantly longer. But again, while there is a conviction that “dark lenses” darken the picture, it is better to gain experience with 18-70 and 35 / 1,8. I don’t think that super-zoom will somehow improve your photos, but there will always be wishes to change your technique for a "cooler" or new one.
I bypass the sigma because of the variation in quality, judging by the reviews, including yours, if you have to buy remotely by mail. Tamrons You also do not praise for the build quality, what can we say then about used. Your advice, in my opinion, is suitable for sigma and tamrons if you buy with on-site verification. Am I right or wrong?
You should always buy with verification. They are afraid of the wolf - do not go to the forest.
Here, in photography, and in photography technology, there are many nuances. Take, for example, my fighting Comrade - Tamron 28-75, of which I probably had 3. Two without a motor, one with a motor. I changed them to something else, but again returned to them. The build quality of this model is disgusting - fantastic plastic, swelling rubber bands and a dangling trunk. But in work they are reliable and durable, this is confirmed by me and the masters who repair them. Even in the event of a breakdown, this is a simple and primitive lens for repair. At the same time, one of the lightest of this range with 2.8 (in my opinion, even the lightest), with a bunch of aspherics and low dispersion, with fast focus (if the non-motorized version, namely the non-motorized version, the motor has a more thoughtful motor) and a pleasant picture (75 mm to many 24-70, if not everyone will have to fight for such a nice picture). Therefore, if you approach the issue thoughtfully, the merits prevail over the poor quality of the lens itself. Add to this that I shoot or shoot a couple of thousand frames per day with this lens, while ordinary users, at best, will shoot much less per month.
But, of course, if we take another model, for example, the 17-50 / 2,8 of the first revisions, then this is a problematic lens that often fails due to mechanical breakdowns. And so on and so forth.
Now the bottom line is that lenses from third-party manufacturers, just like the original lenses, differ from each other in their build quality and functionality and it is extremely difficult to judge as a whole. You can only speak for specific models. Actually, specific models are indicated and recommended for use :)
Arkady, thank you very much for the clarification about the tamron. And about the dispersion of the quality of sigma lenses, I meant the front and back / focus, about which you and all have repeatedly written. That is, again I clarify the question, is it undesirable to buy sigma in the mail? All Nikon lenses purchased by mail have no problems, even the venerable age of 10 years.
Arkady, there will be time, please give the best links on the simple, non-abstruse theory of fast and dark lenses, and how does exposure correct dark lenses, that is, exposure compensation will not improve the dark lens to some extent? I myself will look on the site, but I will wait for recommendations. I understand that the main advantage of a large aperture hole is the reduction in exposure time, which allows you to perform certain tasks when shooting. But there are very fast lenses fixes with a maximum aperture of 1.2; 1.4; 1.8; but at the same time, these apertures are little used in practice due to the shallow depth of field, but use values starting from 2,5; 2,8 etc. . Generally waiting for links to simple explanations
Yes, there is nothing to decide. This is a general question. exposure.
I agree with your remark that “dark lenses darken the picture”. I confused this a little with cameras that underexpose and which overexpose the picture. But this property of cameras manifests itself with certain lenses, or it works constantly regardless of which lens you put on? You have more experience in this regard, please tell us briefly.
In the vast majority of cases, exposure and its shifts depend on the scene being filmed, less often on the method of setting the exposure. Modern cameras are very flexible in this matter and usually there are no problems. These are not the problems that you should focus your photographic attention on :)
Arkady, and here you are right. Just a photographer with great experience remembers scenes (taking into account lighting), where exposure correction is required in one direction or another. Thank.
Arkady, I'm filming my stupid question “how the exposure corrects dark lenses”.
Vladislav, themselves wrote in the question "well, very much." Well, very much of the zooms, perhaps only to the Nikkor 17-55 F2.8 class. About the rest, "well, very much" can not be said. But fixes may well give a noticeably better result than a budget zoom. It is necessary to decide on the focus. My 60-70% goes 35mm + 50mm. For them on the D90 I use Nikkor DX 35mm 1.8G and Nikkor 50mm 1.4D, and there are alternatives to them on the market. The result is predictable, there are no questions about the quality of the picture. But for the rest of the focus already compromises.
Valentine. Nikon 17-55 2.8 is a great lens, but I can't afford it, I'm not a professional. Moreover, all the time I am convinced that the advice of Arkady and other advanced photographers in terms of taking wonderful photos, they say that the main thing in photography is the head, and a good, but not very expensive technique can do wonders. Therefore, this site is very useful in terms of tips and advice on many issues. Now many on Avito sell photographic equipment, referring to the opinion of the site radojuva. So, Arkady, it seems to me, has surpassed the famous kenrockwella.
Kenny is Kenny, Radozhiva is Radozhiva.
Kenny - Kennevo, Radozhive - Radozhivovo :))
Speaking of Ken, I always read what they write about him as an old man who has lost his mind or a lover of orange children, and then he recently went to his site and read it (with a translator). So he writes that everything must be shot in JPEG Medium i.e. average quality, and less than a meter and a half meter on the poster, we won’t see the difference with Rav and you don’t need to steam up with the processing, and so that there are less jambs, just click more frames. In short, a controversial statement. Arkady, on the contrary, advises to engage in a leisurely, thoughtful shooting.
Good afternoon, Arkadiy. Nutrition: Why not add my comments? The remainder of the test of the bull on June 25.06.18, 20 at about 20:XNUMX.
No idea. If something was not included in the comment feed, I apologize.
Dyakuyu for vіdpovіd. I will repeat my feeding.
Good day we will be here. Be a weasel to help rozibratis. Nevtyamki me yak nalashtuvati Auto Iso in Nikon D90. On the right in that, when you vibrated the Iso car, having set the maximum sensitivity, for example 800, and the maximum showcase 1/30 in the “A” mode, I put it in, but when the illumination is too low, the showcase cannot be used for a vibrana. For some reason, in some cases the camera is vibrated, і 1/25, і 1/15, and more. Dal, when in a sleepy, something called, because of the built-in function of "Auto Iso", it starts to show. Pitannya: what is it є right, why is the camera “buggy”, why is it that the music is wrong in the wrong place?
Auto-iso function is not easy to understand. 1/30 in your case is the recommended limit, if at ISO 800 and 1/30 and the selected number of f the illumination is not enough, then the camera will start to increase the shutter speed. In this case, it can be 1/15 of a second (because the ISO ceiling has already been reached, and the aperture in mode A is fixed). Auto parts iso here.
Arkady, I sincerely thank you. Understood!
D90 my green light on the lower right corner is on and flashing in the off state and the batteries will run out ?!
Give some advice!
Most likely the card in the compartment leaves. I recommend visiting the service center.
True! The light does not light when I pulled out a card. Thank you
It should be added that the camera provides less noise and better color sensitivity, as well as a slightly higher DD compared to the D300 and D300s, this is especially noticeable on the ISO1600. All this is confirmed on the dxomark website. I have been using the D90 for over a year and have the best memories. Considering that now it can be bought for $ 170 for almost a new case, it will give odds to many others ...
Good evening everyone. Arkady, of which two lenses do you recommend on the nikon d90: nikon 18-140 or nikon 18-200 vr II? Found used at the same price. Question on the quality of the resulting photo.
Tell me, does the d90 have a diaphragm rheostat?
My d7000 began to give an error on any diaphragms other than the maximum open. The repair price in the service is comparable to the price of a used carcass in good condition. I will try to repair it myself (good, experience is available), along the way I look after a new friend in case of failure with the old one.
No
No. Details here.
Thank you.
I will look towards the older d200 or the more expensive d300. I’m already used to my manuals, and without a rheostat on d90 it will be uncomfortable to work with them.
I bought this used camera, got it at the post office and you won’t be able to check it very much as the second one in addition to Nikon 7000. I mainly use manual. owls lenses. It is because of the Live View and bought it. Unpleasant surprises turned out to be here: it works only in M mode with manual glass, in order to switch the ISO you need to turn off LV, and somehow it’s not very convenient. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or need to be reflashed? Today I bought, and tomorrow shooting. I will try! :)
In Lv mode, ISOs do not switch with any glass.
Today I took one for myself, complete with two lenses for 14000 rubles. I shot it for a long time ...
People, help with the settings! I’m taking a picture of the portrait, if the shadow falls or one of the areas is lighter, then the contours are visible, when processing even more, that is, there is no smooth transition, no matter how hard I try to edit, it turns out even worse, especially when changing the color, if the light area was glued. I tried changing the sharpness and contrast, the problem remains, what should I do?
Maybe Advanced D-Lighting?
I tried, it does not help, I also set different lenses, the same problem.
It turns out garbage, I remove the contrast, sharpness, all the same, the colors are unnecessary, and the sharpness does not change, the contours remain, there is no softness of the picture, that with d-lighting, that without it, in short, some kind of hedgehog ... turned it over, every time it gets worse, what kind of joke could it be?
Show examples of what you can’t do.
How to upload a photo here?
Attach the link to the archive :)
I try to insert a link to wants to go
Does not attach and all
Arkady, it's possible to put some filters on this camera, otherwise it feels like it's more for landscape photography ...
Write the text, add the link and everything turns out :) I have a feeling that it’s not the camera.
It's not the first time I've done this, I don't want to ...
weird. Usually there is no problem with one link (I also have nothing in spam). write to my mail
I don’t know how else to show this garbage to you, maybe you can throw off the link using another method?
for example, a couple https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1461LxsA431qOqU1kO9OLuCj6BhUTXwhY I understand that on a computer for 1500 green you can and indulge in equal
Yes, the link has already arrived.
What do you say, the reason is in me, or is there still something wrong with the camera?
I looked at the photo on the link. I did not see any glitches in the Nikon D90 camera. Most likely you want to get “softness”, “unnecessary or necessary colors” and others right from the box, but you should not expect this from the D90 of 2008 and the budget fifty dollars. Often, the desired result can only be obtained by picking RAW, and not everyone can do it.
In pursuit - the first 300.000 frames are the most difficult, and if you gained experience on the D90 on those 17.000 that EXIF shows, then you should practice until it starts to work out.
The link does not send at least beat peas