I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Sample photos on Nikon D90
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Example photo on Nikon D90
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
Photo on Nikon D90
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
Photo on Nikon D90
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
Photo on Nikon D90
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
Nature photo on Nikon D90
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
Nikon D90 photo
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
Photo on Nikon D90
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Photo at Nikon D90
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Photo at Nikon D90
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
D610 is still the best of all!
And how else canonists not run and Pyataki different brands did not throw? ..
Not yet evening…
God forbid we to the divine Nikon D90 and we’re afraid to come close
No 610 is far from ideal, but given its cost today, much can be forgiven.
Listen, gentlemen are good! I do not understand. Why are such powerful battles unfolding over the superiority of one apparatus over another? The first thing to understand is that classmates are subject to comparison. Well, how can you equalize the possibilities of semi-format and small format ??? Even from the time of the film it was clear: “Narcissus” is good, but “Zenith” will be better ... the area of the frame. Whoever was not satisfied with the quality of the leyka format, despite all the tricks in processing, got behind a medium camera like "Kiev 60 (88-" Salute "). It never occurred to anyone to compare the capabilities of “Zenith” or “Kiev” small-format with them. Well, you can't want and get everything from everything! Nikon-610 is certainly better than the D-90 at least in the size of the photodetector. Water is wet, iron is hard, who can argue!
All this battles because the full format certainly has advantages (the most obvious is that you can cut down the original frame in post-processing more strongly or print a photo the size of a poster). Everything else seems subjective to me. Colors are straightened out in editors, three-dimensionality is achieved by the ability to use ambient light and complement it with artificial light. I remember in the 90s I tested the Kodak 800 film, so there was grain, and in general films more than 200 were considered granular for special use.
Welcome !!! After reading the knowledge, Bula Smena-6, then Zenit-V with the Industrial 50, Zenit-E with helios, dal Kyiv 6C, Kyiv 19, and since 2002, having known the new course in Khmelnitsky Olimpus with 4040Z and so on. I will not say about the lack of goodness from the cameras, the skin is too small to say that it’s prevailed before the offensive. And if I have a chance to take a photo of myself for living, then I know who will be able to sleep at once. Today, May 90, the fate of the people and the sea of change, which I am here for.
Hello! I am writing here for the first time.
Arkady, thanks for this site and your work!
A few additions, who can come in handy.
In automatic modes (“green”, landscape, portrait), you can also manually set the desired ISO value. At first I thought that there was only Auto in them.
For those who shoot in RAW and process in the camera itself, which is several times faster than programmatically on a computer: if you suddenly had to take a picture with noise at high ISO, if you forgot to turn on noise reduction, you can do this before processing the file. In JPEG, the photo is saved with noise reduction.
When processing RAW in the camera, you can apply not only the built-in image control modes with the specified parameters of color, sharpness and contrast, but also modified to your taste the same modes. For example, if saturation or hue is added in Standard Picture Control before RAW processing, the JPEG photo will be saved with the same changes. To add brightness, or contrast, Active D-Lighting must be off.
Who will tell you how to solve the problem:
the battery indicator does not appear on the monochrome display (in the viewfinder too), but the conflict plug icon appears on the information display (in the instructions this means that the camera is powered by an optional EH-5a or EH-5 AC power supply), but no power supply connected, just a standard battery and that's it.
What's the problem?
can anyone know what the problem is: the monochrome display does not show the battery charge icon, but on the main display it shows the plug icon (which means the power is disconnected from the outlet), but the camera works only on battery power. It looks like it’s not absurd, but it’s not clear what the battery charge level is, and it’s unclear when the camera is shut down.
I apologize for the replay. I could not add koment, but already two were added. ps If anything, one of them and this can be removed.
I have been using the D90 for seven years now. The person is lazy (in terms of reading instructions), so I constantly discover something new for myself (as needed). I carry it wherever possible. There were several drops with the replacement of the lens mount ring. Three lenses per camera; in the process of shooting I change constantly. Works like a clock; unrealistically reliable technology! If you get the hang of working with manual settings, you can get very high quality pictures. I completely agree with ISO. Up to 2500 is still tolerable, but if you raise it higher, you get very noisy photos (this is frustrating, since I often shoot in conditions of severe lack of lighting, but I haven't found a solution yet). For the rest - respect to the author of the article; there were many topics for thought.
Best regards,
Michael
And what is the mileage?
Good day, Dmitry.
According to http://www.camerashuttercount.com - 121287 ...
I shot with 300, 610, d3s ... but I just love d90 ... weight, compactness, reliability. She never let her down, although I was with her in very extreme conditions ... even considering that she was from 2008, she absolutely did not lose its relevance. Respect.
I don’t understand where they come from….
The site after moving to another hosting is wildly buggy. Try using the method described here. I apologize for the inconvenience.
Hello! After 1,5 months, the result of bathing my Nikon D-90 appeared, several circles are visible in the photo, local lovers say that these are residues of moisture on the matrix, what to do, how to fix it, tell me?
Take the camera to the cleaning matrix.
I understand, but the service is only in the city for 300 km., I myself, without harming the camera, can not do anything?
Can. See here and on the internet “how to clean the matrix”.
Thank you, everything is clear ...
I answer Valery, writes Gjyzk ???
Why did you write “Gjyzk” in your nickname field? ?
Good evening. I recently bought a D90 (second-hand), which I really liked (in everything), installed a nikon 35 f / 1.8 dx lens, I liked the photos. But the pictures with this lens on the D7100 are better in terms of resolution, or, better to put it, the details are better drawn. This is normal? Some will say that there are different matrices, but at the same time I view the photos on my computer without magnification.
Also, tell me which lens (zoom and fix) is most suitable for the D90, the answer is preferably from photographers with great practice, including, of course, Arcadia. This will help me avoid experimenting with extra cash.
There is no such understanding of “fit best”. The system is designed so that all lenses that can fit on this camera are suitable.
The D90 is friends with everyone, and often gets hit with the 50 / 1.8AF as a budget fix. Balanced station wagon - Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS. If you can tell me specific goals, I will try to recommend this or that lens in more detail.
Arkady, but what about the fact that the D7100 produces better (clearer) pictures - is this normal?
About suitable, I put it wrong, I agree with you. Of the Nikon lenses, which ones do you personally like paired with the D90? It may not be for everyone. You correctly speak for what tasks it is necessary. Frankly, I, an advanced amateur, shoot portraits, landscapes.
There can be many reasons for the fact that the pictures are clearer or not clearer. Starting from different accuracy of getting into focus, ending with subjective conclusions based on certain plots. In general, the d7100 can give better detail due to the higher megapixel count.
I like the lens that will help to solve this or that photo problem with this or that final result. I can recommend you TOP lenses that I like, but I don't think you will buy them. Usually I try to recommend balanced options, and therefore for a portrait - this is Nikon 85 / 1.8G / 1.8Dwith a stretch 50 / 1.4G / 1.8G, or any bright telephoto, like a classic 80-200 / 2.8 MK3... The Tokinovskie shiriks are good for the landscape, and - all. I would stop at TBU or TBU.
Please, more clearly indicate your requirements and wishes for future technology, and most importantly - an approximate budget.
Arkady, thanks. I also read your reviews on lenses.
Vladislav, you would post links to photographs taken by these devices. And preferably not in jpeg but in raw, then the difference in parameters will be clear. Of course, two different camera models almost never give the exact same result, but such that it would be much better directly from one camera than from the other should not be. At least for the D90 (and I shot it with Nikkor 35mm 1.8G many times), I have not yet noticed any visible loss as later models with a cropped matrix (D7000, D7100, D5200, D5300, D3300). Especially if you write that you are comparing pictures without magnification. Even to this day, the D90 has everything in order with quality, and the D7100 advantage can be more likely to appear with serious post-processing, and in general it is concluded in the wider functionality of this camera.
Alternatively, change the 16 MP image from the D7000 to 12 MP, such as the D90 produces, since visually the difference may arise due to the different size of the images. On a small phone display, this difference may not be noticeable, but on a PC monitor or laptop screen more. In addition, it is desirable to compare the same pictures, because the shooting conditions and the related different camera settings that are set can affect the details.
Hello, Arkady.
Please help me deal with the D90 flash when working with a manual Soviet lens.
I set the Helios 44m, the flash turned on manually and selected its power for shooting in a 1/50 room.
with the flash closed, I can set any shutter speed, but as soon as I activate the flash, the shutter speed becomes 200, and you can only turn it down a long shutter speed, the shutter speed is not shorter. Disc mode M, manual flash mode.
at a shutter speed of 200 hands it is very difficult for me to photograph, so as not to smear.
Good afternoon.
The built-in flash does not support high-speed sync. At shutter speeds shorter than 1/200 c, only external flash units can be made to work. More details here https://radojuva.com/2011/05/flesh-dnem-kak-ispolzovat/
Exposure 1/200 s is enough for a very wide range of tasks. Perhaps only a few fast moving subjects may suffer from a lack of shutter speed. But in practice, if the main light comes from a flash, then the length of its pulse is the decisive factor. The pulse length of the built-in flash at 1/50 is about 1/1000 s, and it is this value that forms the actual shutter speed. Most likely, you have a blur not in terms of "shake", but in terms of focusing.
Thank you very much for the answer.
nevertheless, it smears because of the hands))) I take several shots from one angle and not everything is clear, I try to hold my breath like a sniper)))
For some reason, the saturation of the picture with helios in M mode is worse than with the standard 18-105 in portrait mode. With a family, the picture is so to speak "juicy", and with helios it is more faded.
maybe I just don’t know the subtleties of the settings in the manual mode of the camera
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/9WzX/D4aMvBQw7
There is no shake in the picture, there is a soft picture. If you hold the camera normally, then 1/60 in a large number of cases gives a good result. There are no parameters for pictures, but do not forget a simple thing: you need to compare Helios with 18-105, at least with the same aperture values. It is not difficult to beat a lens with an aperture of 5,6 in sharpness and contrast at an aperture of 2,0. Close Helios at 5,6 for correctness and then look at the picture. And Arkady definitely wrote about enlightenment - in many mass-produced lenses it is simple (and it was often calculated for b / w photography) and seriously inferior to modern requirements, and this greatly affects the picture. Highlights, light reflections drop the contrast, on the open color they float into yellowness, etc. manifestations. But you can shoot in raw and process. Therefore, Helios and any other old glasses are best taken when you know exactly why you need them. If you need a high-aperture fix for the D90, there is a good and cheap Nikkor 50mm 1.8D, which on average costs about 5 thousand rubles used, it can be cheaper.
Enlightenment of Helios and the "nonatral" light of the flash are most likely to blame.
Tell me, if you put a lens on this device whose autofocus does not work, then will the lens focus with this device?
If the lens is broken or does not support automatic focusing, autofocus cannot be achieved with Nikon D90.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm lens. The motor does not work. But what about the built-in AF drive?
On the lens with a built-in motor on the bayonet there seems to be no hole for the lever of the motor camera, which twists the focus. Well, maybe there are expensive lenses, I didn’t look, but it seems like I didn’t look at simple lenses, so if the lens motor breaks or the working lens switches to manual focus mode, the camera motor will not be able to twist its focus. But wait for Arkady’s answer, I don’t have a motor lens at my fingertips to clarify.
What does a camera screwdriver have to do with a lens with a built-in focusing motor? Lenses with a motor do not support a screwdriver, there is no such mechanism physically in them, and this is logical. Motor died - manual focus only or repair
Thanks, I got it. Happy New Year!
Hello. Please tell me: will the d90 + 50mm 1.8d bundle be inferior to the d3200 + 50mm 1.8g bundle in terms of picture quality and ease of handling?
The fact is that there are both lenses and a 3200 carcass, I thought to sell 1.8d first, but can it be better to sell the second bunch and buy a d90? Judging by the calculator and Avito there will be a gain of 10k, but the question of the difference in the received images is open.
ps I photograph people.
D90 is definitely more convenient to manage, but in general there will be a loss in image quality. And 50 1.8zh is significantly better than 50 1.8d.
Thanks a lot for your answer)
Good day to all!
Arkady, thank you for your work! Maybe I missed a topic somewhere on the occasional Err error. The instruction says - bring it to the service center. The D90 is not the newest, but bought in a carcass in a store, without a run less than two weeks ago. I read on various forums that this error occurs quite often with the D90. It is paired with Nikon 18-200 vrII. Also new out of the box. And literally after 50-60 frames Err periodically appears on the LCD display in A mode. Switching on / off, removing the battery, jerking the lens in the byte - these are the recommendations read on the forums. Have you encountered such a disaster?
Try with a different memory card, if possible. Or, when an error occurs, turn off the device, remove the card, insert it back and turn it on again. Bad contact on the memory card may cause an Err error. Of course, there are many other reasons, so the service is the most correct.
To sin on a memory card is also fresh, unwritten. Class 10. And it would be fine for me to have this sore alone. The second D5300 camera never snapped back with any surprises. And then there is nothing more to compare with. Maybe someone else has come across a similar one. Valentine, thank you for answering you. I'll try.
Happy New Year and Merry Christmas to you and everyone reading!
ERR can for many reasons, there is only one way - a service center. It can also depend on the lens. Shoot with or without someone else, try it.
And again Good evening!
Interestingly, there is only one in the instructions for this - Service. The camera didn't even shoot three hundred. D5300 lens works without problems
This means the service center. Err is a common mistake, you need to connect a camera to the console and watch the real error code, and this is just a service.
Thank you Arkady! I’ll observe more, maybe something else will appear. I didn’t think that it was like this from the store and immediately into the Service. I'll try with other glasses and with a memory card.
All a good mood and with the holidays!
a new obsolete camera and an immediate problem. not like just a coincidence
So that's what annoys ... :(
Good evening, Arkady!
Returning to the sore D90. I noticed the following pattern: I bought the same new Nikon 90-18 for my D200 (from the store). With him I noticed this error Err. After ours with you (and not only with you, thank you all) I planted a Nikon 55-200. In what modes I just did not drive it. This Err has never shown itself. But with the Yangnuo 50mm F1,8N - I got out again. I substitute 55-200 again - everything is perfect. Only 55-200 is not always convenient.
Upon my request to technical support, Nikon received the following:
Reply from Tetyana D
Good afternoon, Alexander,
Thank you for contacting the Nikon European Technical Support Center.
I regret the difficulties and try to help you.
Since Nikon cameras were not tested with third-party lenses like the Yongnuo YN50 mm F1,8N, we cannot guarantee correct operation and compatibility with your D90.
As for the AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR II lens, please make sure that it is properly attached and the contacts are not damaged. You can clean them with a soft brush, for example.
Since the problem is not observed in conjunction with the Nikon 55-200 lens, we dare to assume that everything is normal with the camera.
Describe whether there will be changes after cleaning the contacts.
I unsubscribed that the contacts are clean and in good condition and it works without problems on the D5300.
I just read in your description that you tested it with Yongnuo 50 1,8. Was everything without problems?
On the YN50, a lens recognition error by the camera periodically happens, which was noted in the review and comments. But this error is not systematic and is not so common. In addition, it is treated with a simple detachment-attachment of the lens. You write that you have a problem with both the YN50 and the native 18-200 mm. That is, obviously, we are talking about a more complex case, with a suspected malfunction in the camera. You need to give the camera and lenses to a service center for diagnosis. They will not be able to help you in absentia, and you are wasting your time in correspondence.
Valentine, thank you for your attention to my topic. On occasion, of course I turn to the Service. But the operation of the D90 with the Nikon 55-200 has never caused this error. Chipped Yu-37A also behaves well with him in tandem. That's why I want information about this Yongnuo 50. The plan was the desire to buy it 35 mm. Now I’m thinking how he will be friends with that. And is it worth it?
I bought a d90 + 18-105 kit in 2013, with an official guarantee.
29.12.2017/8/XNUMX jammed the shutter. Today, finally, I found the time and took it to the Khokhlov family XNUMX.
Inquired about the estimated cost of repairs. They said that if the shutter is replaced, then this is 100-120 dollars. Klas! Super! The shutter passed 8900 frames, and all? Well, I blew off dust particles from this fotik! He saw neither frost nor dust in his eyes!
It's a shame to horror.
anyway, he's morally obsolete
So now? Do not repair and throw in the trash carcass, for which 800 bucks gave back sometime?
now about 200 bucks it costs
A good lesson can be learned from this. The technique that works constantly works best.
I don’t know what to do if they say about replacing the shutter ...
If they say change the shutter, then you have to change the shutter. And shoot calmly on or sell the camera. If you are thinking about a catch from the side of the service, you can consult with someone else. No equipment is safe from breakdowns, you are not lucky this time, this happens. In general, the D90 shutter is quite reliable and keeps its resource, which does not exclude a certain percentage of breakdowns long before it occurs. And it happens the other way around, long-lived locks that are more than 200-300 thousand. The likelihood that after replacing the shutter it will again break by 8 thousand is microscopically small, but also not excluded.
Thank you
We called today from the service. The shutter motor is covered. The repair will cost UAH 2180. They pierced the base, there are no spare parts in Europe, there are only in Japan, the delivery time is at least 3 weeks. The warranty for the replaced unit is 6 months.
From this we can conclude that if in 3-4 years something else is covered in it, then it will not be done anymore due to the lack of spare parts. Another good lesson is that the equipment needs to be updated and not reach the age of 10 from the moment the model was announced: problems with the service (and its cost), as well as a very low sale price even for an unbroken device with low mileage.
Dmitry, so in your case, updating the device after 3 years is also an invoice. As I understand it, you have shot only 5 thousand frames in 9 years. That is, in 3 years, at best, 6 thousand are obtained. Here you bought a new device for 800 USD, 3 years have passed and it already costs 500 USD, although the mileage of 6 thousand can not even be counted as a mileage. Selling it for 500 USD and buying a new one again for 800 USD? No, it's better to use it until it crumbles completely. There will be no new spare parts, they will find a donor - these only multiply over time.
So it will be. I agreed to repair. I will use it further.
Should I change Nikon D50 to D90? Or on the D200 (as budget options)?
As you wish. Only keep the D50 for yourself, you’ll still be shooting it.
For reporting, they are, of course, more comfortable. The picture is different. And yet, the D200 seems to be twice as much and heavier than the D50, you will not always throw it in your purse.
There is a phrase in the article that the built-in flash can be configured to set the remote on fire and set it so that it does not participate in the shooting (as I understand it, it only gave an impulse but did not light up). Tell us more about these settings.
Narrated already: Command flash mode. Nikon CLS
https://radojuva.com/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/
Go to the menu, Built-in puff, Command mode, select "No pulse"
Nikon D90 is generally a unique device, convenient and very reliable. My friend has already worked more than 400000 and still takes pictures.
Upon my request to technical support, Nikon received the following:
Reply from Tetyana D
Good afternoon, Alexander,
Thank you for contacting the Nikon European Technical Support Center.
I regret the difficulties and try to help you.
Since Nikon cameras were not tested with third-party lenses like the Yongnuo YN50 mm F1,8N, we cannot guarantee correct operation and compatibility with your D90.
As for the AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR II lens, please make sure that it is properly attached and the contacts are not damaged. You can clean them with a soft brush, for example.
Since the problem is not observed in conjunction with the Nikon 55-200 lens, we dare to assume that everything is normal with the camera.
Describe whether there will be changes after cleaning the contacts.
So what's the problem?
A couple of times I printed pictures in A3 size. The quality came out very high. The paper was Satin. I came to the conclusion that 12MP on the crop is enough for this.
The D90 resolution is 4288 x 2848. Given that under the A3 you need to trim the long side we get about 4027 x 2848 pixels. Sheet A3 has a size of 42 x 29,7 cm or 16,5 x 11,7 inches. Thus, the print density is approximately 245x245 dpi, and this guarantees high quality.
Hello, Please tell me, is there a choice between nikon d90 mileage 6-8 thousand, 18-105, excellent condition, and nikon d5100, 18-55, satisfactory condition? I understand that 5100 is newer, but tends to d90? The condition is excellent. D90 -13000r, D5100 give for 9500, can not decide? please tell me knowledgeable people, I still did not hold the mirror in my hands. Thanks.
Better in this case are d90 and 18-105. A better lens is preferable.
Thank you very much, I’ll go to take it tomorrow morning, I used to take photographs in my childhood, change, zenith, but have already forgotten everything. I read all your reviews on the devices you are interested in. Thanks to your reviews, I decided on my future choice. My device is pro5, probably the past experience and love for individual settings affected when the frame depends on you and not on the program in the device. But now I’ve turned 90 on the budget, I’ll take it for a start, and after that, if the interest persists, they’ll change for good measure, I hope that this will be my last choice, I like to create, so to speak. Once again, many thanks to you for your reviews, thanks to which you can understand a lot, it's worth a lot. Goodbye.
Remember, manual lenses without a chip on the D90 and D5100 will not measure exposure. They will be on the edge.
Thank you
Arkady, MANY THANKS for your site !!!