Review of the Nikon d90.

I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.

Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.

Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.

To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.

Sample photos on Nikon D90

Sample photos on Nikon D90

And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure

Example photo on Nikon D90

Example photo on Nikon D90

Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.

1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.

3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is ​​excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values ​​of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values ​​it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.

Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90

Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90

5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.

Nature photo on Nikon D90

Nature photo on Nikon D90

I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.

Nikon D90 photo

Nikon D90 photo

The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.

Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.

Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.

Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.

No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)

I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.

Photo at Nikon D90

Photo at Nikon D90

Brief comparison with Nikon D80:

D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.

A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:

D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.

A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:

D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.

Photo at Nikon D90

Photo at Nikon D90

Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.

Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.

Sample Photos

The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.

Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).

More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:

  1. YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
  3. Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
  4. YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
  5. Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
  6. Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  7. Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
  8. Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
  9. Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
  10. Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
  11. SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
  12. Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
  13. Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
  14. Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
  15. Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  16. Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
  17. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
  18. INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
  19. LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
  20. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  21. LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
  22. Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
  23. Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
  24. Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
  25. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
  26. SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
  27. TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
  28. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
  29. QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
  30. Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
  31. Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
  32. Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
  33. Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
  34. SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
  35. Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
  36. MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
  37. YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
  38. Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
  39. TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
  40. Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
  41. Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
  42. SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
  43. YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
  44. Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
  45. I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
  46. Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
  47. Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
  48. INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
  49. SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
  50. Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
  51. YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
  52. PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD ​​(IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
  53. Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
  54. MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
  55. YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
  56. Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
  57. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
  58. Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO

Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.

Video review, retrospective

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.

Conclusions:

In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram

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Comments: 1 359, on the topic: Nikon d90 review. Reviews of Nikon D90 from Radozhiva

  • Mikhail Ilyin

    When the nikon d90 camera fell in a case from a belt, the mechanism for raising and lowering the mirror stopped working (the motor in the camera was buzzing), the mirror rose and did not fall, the plume of the focus motor and the sharpness sensor were undocked in the lens (docked by unscrewing five bolts from the lens end to 5 mm gap sharpened matches). When you press the aperture cock button (bottom-right), the mirror cocked and remained at the top, the motor in the camera buzzed when you press the shutter button, “Err” was displayed on the left panel, shutter speed and aperture settings were not indicated. He bent the bar of the aperture cocking lever with a finger (he touched it a lot, almost bent over himself inside the lens, opposite the outer cocking lever, the move was initially easy) and remained easy - perhaps, as a result, the bar fell into its regular place as it should (nikkor 18-200), or so it seemed to me. It’s just that after the fall it didn’t cock the diaphragm, now it cockes. After being transported to the master (vibration may occur on the road or the influence of the room-master), he earned it himself - the mirror began to cock and lower from the diaphragm button and began to photograph from the start button. Only the active (but not burning until the fall) bottom information panel in the viewfinder is off. It just doesn’t glow at all, the grid and focus areas are present in the viewfinder, the focus areas are active and are highlighted in red red if the shooting conditions do not correspond to the ISO exposure, if the focus is sharp - the sound signal comes out and the frame turns black - when you press the “start” button, the shutter triggered. I had to look at the shooting parameters in a small screen from the top-right (you can’t see a fig) or in the big one on the back to set the ISO and exposure, which is very inconvenient. What is the problem, the viewfinder backlight works, maybe these are other LEDs? Is it possible to replace the LEDs? I didn’t disassemble the camera, I’m afraid I can’t assemble it back ...! is it cheaper to replace the LEDs in the monitor or order an LCD monitor in the viewfinder ?, still make an audit of the mechanism for raising the mirror. I do not think that the problem is in the lens. With the nozzle through the adapter ring of the Soviet lens, I shot without problems, only set the aperture-focus. They mounted lenses under a screwdriver - without comment.

  • Sergey

    Mileage nikon d90 today is already 188 thousand! the shutter did not change ..

  • Pokekmon

    Owned such a camera for several years.
    Now it has become fashionable to scold the cameras of past years, the D90 and even the D700.
    D90 pleased with its characteristics.
    Without noise cancellation turned on, ISO800 was working, with it turned on, even 1600 could be considered working under certain conditions.
    I was pleased with the presence of a screwdriver in the carcass - yes, this is a class.
    What did not suit you?
    Focusing slowness and moisture resistance.
    I got into a rain and snow - the camera got wet quickly. He dried for a day afterwards.
    The other couple of situations was shooting in the snow. It was very humid and wet snow was falling, the temperature was about zero and the humidity was about 80. As a result, everything was fogged up tightly and had to be dried again.
    It was a shame because Pentax owners didn’t blow a mustache.
    PS> After replacing D90 with D700, the problem of moisture protection disappeared by itself.

  • Alexander

    Hello everyone. I’ve been renting weddings for many years, I have a Nikon D600 second Nikon D90 and a lens for it sigma 17-50, Nikon D90 rent a ransom, the guests of the report in general, and Nikon D600 an artist, a production, and a registry office. Nikon D90 is very good for work. The color is not bad, the dynamic range, and 12 megapixels is the best thing for a wedding, management is better than the xxx series. 150 tons of operations worked.

  • Alexey

    I exchanged my set of D3100 18-55 kit and glass 55-200 for D90 + 50 1.8D. I have never regretted it, people still shoot commerce on the D90 even easier, and the 3100 is a dead end, anyway, I barely sold it, because all avito littered.

  • Alexander

    Color is not bad in a bunch of sigma 17-50

  • Alexander

    Cool camera

  • Alexander

    Suitable for wedding photography)))

  • Denis

    Good day!
    I want to switch from D5100 to something with a built-in motor. As an option, I consider and D90. What is its color rendering, worse or better than d5100?

    • Evgeniy

      was, and I have a d5100 I wanted to burn something with a built-in motor and paint so I couldn’t take my eyes off)), took a d200 (SSD SENSOR MATOR) (900 yuan), it was nice, it was in my hand for a couple of three weeks I went baldel, but I took a d5100 from her, looked at the photo: nice colors, nice clear picture. D5100 is normal, but if you switch from it, it’s already on ff

    • Vladimir

      Better not, after the D5100 you will not be pleasantly surprised by the high noise of the matrix, it is better to take the D7000 or D7100 if the budget is limited. I regretted that I took sweat (((Yes, everything is fine during the day, but already in the twilight of the ISO problem above 400 - 600, I try not to pick it up

  • anonym

    Hello Arkady. Firstly, thank you for the reviews, a lot of useful. Please tell me for my optics d 90 is suitable, given that I have a nikon micro nikkor 105 Ai-S f4. I love this lens very much. I shoot narrowly directed, the oral cavity in dentistry with external lighting. The fact is that now I have a carcass d 3100. In principle, I shoot at 3100 not bad, but everything just needs a new level.

  • Igor

    Good day to all !!! Selling my camera! Excellent condition! D90. LENS NIKON 18-105 3.5-5.6, lens hood. wires etc. tel. 0962491704

    • anonym

      There are specialized sites for barging, such as OLH, Photo.ua

  • Vadim

    The camera I got is not new, but with a range of only 20. What can I say? Here the shutter has now run over 000, thought about changing the camera, but my soul protests. As for work, I will say that this is probably the "Kalashnikov" among amateur cameras. Does not die in the cold, rain - so-so conditions, trouble-free. But! For a reporter, it is slow, but if you get your hands on it and learn how to take pictures, then a buffer of 115 frames is quite enough. Of the unpleasant moments - constantly climbing out rzin plugs, it is treated with a nail file (carefully cut along the contour). There were no crashes in all my 000 shots. I read in the statistics that one, excuse me, a nutcase, caught up with the shutter up to 4 actuations.
    Another nice fact of the camera is the omnivorous range of Nikon optics. But there is a small correction, what kind of lens and frames. The camera, if anything.

  • Paul

    Hello ninety! Tell me, who faced such a problem. In Live View mode, the exposure meter is shamelessly buggy, as if it freezes. Does not display the current values ​​of the exposure pair on the screen (the values ​​there depend on the previous frame), and when shooting it already exposes normally. At the same time, sometimes it does wonders in general - it raises the ISO to the maximum and lengthens the shutter speed all the way, as if it goes blind and does not see the light. I did a reset, put on different lenses, everything was in vain. What is it, han matrix sensor or program crash? In mirror mode, the exposure meter works well as it should.

    • lech

      I have the identity itself. If you hadn’t said, you would have remained blissfully unaware. For all five years that I have this camera (bought a new one), I used Live View on the strength of three times.

      • Paul

        Fuh, then everything is in order with electronics. Apparently, just software brakes when taking measurements from the matrix

  • Vladimir

    The camera gives an excellent result when working in good lighting, but even at dusk, in a room with poor light and even more so at night, nothing normal can be removed without an external flash! I realized for myself that if you have to shoot in poor lighting, it is better to leave it at home. Alas, the matrix is ​​old and by modern standards it makes noise unbearably

    • Pokekmon

      I do not quite agree.
      I had D90 and I used it with fast fixes 35 / 2D and 50 / 1.4D.
      ISO 800 camera holds. Holds even 1100 with enabled squelch.
      I don’t understand what you wanted from crop. It is enough to shoot on the D7100 and D7200 without noise reduction on the ISO 1200-1600 and there will come out a lot of bad things.
      Personally, I was terrified of the D700 image on the ISO2500, and from the D90, as well as from the other crop camera on the ISO above 1200, without noise reduction, there was nothing good to expect.

  • Pokekmon

    ISO 1000
    D90 + 50 / 1.4D

    • Vladimir

      Well, everyone has different claims to noise at high ISOs, and it should be noted that a high ISO gives a much better picture than ISO with a strong lack of light. Before that, I shot on the Nikon D5100, it’s also old already but still gives a decent picture, at high ISO it shows a very good result (by the way, on the same site there is also a laudable review of this camera) And when I took the D90 after it, I was in shock, the noise of pixels (colored grain) in itself is normal, but the degradation of color and detail, as for me, are very strong and just disfigure the photo. Of course, I admit maybe the hands are not quite straight, but on the D5100 under the same conditions on the same optics the frames were much cleaner!
      As for the examples in the comment, I don’t know whether they are elongated or chamber Jpg
      I was upset that I could not shoot a fire show with an AF-S 35mm f1.8 DX Nikkor lens. Yes, there is also a lack of experience shooting such scenes played a role, but I'm sure that if I took the D5100 I would have done better.

  • Pokekmon

    Another example:
    ISO 1000
    D90 + 50 / 1.4D

  • Pokekmon

    ISO800
    D90 + 35 / 2D

  • Pokekmon

    example1
    D90 + 35 / 2D

  • Pokekmon

    example2
    also ISO800
    D90 + 35 / 2D

  • Pokekmon

    example3
    D90 + 35 / 2D
    ISO800
    All the pictures indicated by me were taken by me 4 years ago.
    I sold the D90, but I almost do not regret it.

  • Yuriy

    ISO 1000, Nikon 18-105 f / 5,6

  • Yuriy

    Axis ISO 1000

  • Alexey

    Arkady, good afternoon! When I wrote that you are wrong in the thread about the protroyka and the five. Sorry, I didn't read all your articles. I apologize. Once my colleague hung a pentacon around his neck (it was written there according to our name) and a shirik with an 88 mm front lens on it. And at the same time I shot Iskra with a central shutter and Industar 58 up to 61 years old (German glasses were on). You wrote a hundred times !!! Nobody wants to hear !!! The photographer translates as DRAWING WITH LIGHT. And the camera is just a tool. Maybe more convenient, maybe not. D90 is a great camera! They write about 5100, so you still need to flash it! So that an unclamped rab, and a screwdriver? and the display? Yes more DD, so what? Fujik is still far away And Nikon D90 is an excellent camera for EVERY DAY! You are asked questions, they say, is that garbage or this one better, and you ask why? Do not understand! FOR A MASTERPIECE! Guys! There are no miracles! Study, study and study again! Read RADOZHIVA CAREFULLY! There are NO bad cameras! After all, a person wrote to you, for work d700, for every day D90, for home D40 and d70 !!! I will add, for the soul fujik pro. For me, another D200 in the worst case. Think the owners of all D ... .. Would a person with D700 shoot home on D40 ??? And do not care if there are amplifiers in every pixel or one at all. Whether there are lenses or not. I do not pretend to be a PHOTOGRAPHER, I am a person who made a living from this. And I didn't get up at five in the morning to catch the sunrise. But over 35 years of experience and the persecution of TSS and T32 (when I was lucky) and a bunch of faces in the frame, I have my own opinion. Hear Arcadia! The biggest mistake of beginners, and not only, is that I will buy the D850 and there will be masterpieces. WILL NOT! Learn composition, work with light and everything will be fine, regardless of the camera. I don't rent for money anymore. I do retouching and photo processing for “photographers” with 610 and cheap lenses and write panels for Photoshop for quick processing. But to anyone interested, I can prove that with the D70 with 6 megapixels and 18-70, you can take pictures superior to the D5100 in quality. And Nikon D90 is an excellent camera in its price range. And with much more functionality than three and five-thousanders. With an excellent matrix, although CCD is closer to me. Sorry to write abruptly. I feel sorry for Arkady, he has to read all this!

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes that's right. C5 pro is also one of my favorite cameras. And on Canon 450D mine can squeeze anything.

    • Yuriy

      It’s right. Підтримую at all 100.

    • Andrei

      Alexey, I completely agree with you.
      Photography - drawing with light. Those. the main condition for obtaining a photo is LIGHT and straight hands of a person with a camera.
      In the absence of normal light, there are flashes and other devices.
      And yes, every photo should be brought to mind in a good editor.
      If a person picks up a violin, this is just a person with a violin in his hands, but if a person picks up a camera, then this is a photographer.
      And such “photographers” all try to take pictures figuratively speaking “under the closet” in complete darkness and then start howling that everything is lost.
      All good and successful staff.

  • anonym

    Nikon D90 is a good device, but:

    1. Working ISO up to 640 - the colors float further, detail drops, noise climbs. And this is when shooting in RAW. 1250 - well, this is if it is very, very necessary to remove. And there is no ISO 100.
    2. Few megapixels for post-processing.
    3. There are few focus points.
    4. After buying the D610 - I could not shoot it and presented it.

    By the way, they practically do not differ in color. But the D610 has a small unpleasant noise, which must be pressed more aggressively when developing. But ISO up to 2500 (5000) can be used. But it’s a particular pleasure to shoot in the open and ISO 100.

    Verdict: it is recommended to purchase as the first device with a fifty dollars, if not enough on the D7000.

    • Andrei

      The flash has not been canceled.

    • Andrei

      Regarding ISO and the rest of the negative regarding the D90, see the work on the site
      35photo.ru/items/Nikon+D90_i4570/ and for comparison 35photo.ru/items/Nikon+D800_i4796/

      • anonym

        A flash kills the atmosphere! And it is far from always applicable.

        I shot the D90 from 2009 to December 2016. Shot over 130 thousand shots. On all possible settings, in different situations and in different ways, I handled them. I know what I'm talking about!

        The device is good for beginners: it has the correct controls and more or less normal settings. D3x00 and D5x00 - generally impossible to use normally! And the settings cannot fix it. For there are no such settings there!

        If we compare the photos of D90 and D610: from the 610th photos look bigger and more expensive. Even non-professionals notice this. Autofocus is the 610's weakest point.

        The D90 is the device from which you can start taking photographs seriously. But you should definitely buy a fast fix to it! And if there is a financial opportunity - buy a device from the D7x00 series. They will be the best option!

        Links did not open. If a person can make a good product with the help of imperfect equipment, this is the merit of the person, not the technology! And you can draw an awesome picture with a pencil! But it's not because of the pencil ...

        • Andrei

          About the pencil is well said. I agree.
          Compares 610 and 90 is not entirely correct.
          With a more advanced device it is easier to get a good result.
          Again, it all depends on the directness of the hands.
          About the links, you can just go to the site 35photo and there to see the work using different cameras.

          • anonym

            I consider buying the D610 as an upgrade to the D90. This is exactly the feeling - tightened the characteristics. Therefore, I compare: how it was and how it became.

            All other things being equal, the result with the D610 will be better, better, more interesting. D90 is good, but outdated. Such an apparatus can be taken for a leisurely afternoon walk. It is convenient to learn to shoot using the correct technique (focusing with the thumb + manual shutter speed / aperture). Useful for the future.

            Indoors (for example, a restaurant, a hall, etc.) - the ISO D90 lacks. Filmed the evening events in the canteen at school. Terrible light + high ceilings. D90 - only with flash + smog diffuser, and D610 - ISO2500 - and good photos without any flashes! Moreover, the picture turned out to be more interesting and the colors are more pleasant and the noise is less.

            Of course, everything depends on finances, but you need to understand the conditions in which you have to work. So as not to be surprised at the result. Of course, a beginner may not appreciate all the improvements, but they certainly will not hinder him!

            And the best camera so far from the relatively affordable is Nikon D810!

            • Onotole

              Dear Anonymous, you are stuck in each topic to the place and out of place to stick your D610.
              We all realized for a long time that you really like this camera, but your ideas about photographic equipment (not in photography at all, but in photographic equipment) are, one-sided, inadequate and very biased. Therefore, your opinion here is worth listening to in the last turn, including for beginners.

              • Alexey

                When there are no arguments, they resort to insults - this is Onotole for you. Learn to respect opinions other than yours, especially if they are correct. Photography is not painting, the tool matters, 610 is better than 90, and nothing can be done about it.

              • Onotole

                Am I offending someone? Where?
                Respect for the opinions of others should also have limits. When a person repeats endlessly like a parrot: “D610! D610! ” even when he is asked what to choose D5300 or Olympus - and he is still repeating the D610, respect for opinions somehow evaporates, being replaced by doubts about the adequacy and impartiality.

            • Arkady Shapoval

              The best camera you shoot.

              • Andrei

                Arkady, please accept my congratulations on PHOTOGRAPH!
                Good luck and wonderful staff.

        • Artem

          I wonder what settings make it difficult to shoot on d3xx d5xxx. And here I am watching photos from my first fotik d3000 and I like it. I even bought d200, what is it that there are no other modes in the initial carcasses besides the auto modes? but I noticed the opposite situation - people first take the initial carcass - the pictures are bad, they buy the top ones and they think that it has become a ray, but no, it has become the same. if you don’t know how to shoot, no carcass will help you. This site is a confirmation of this, and Arkady just shows that you can squeeze the maximum out of any camera. It’s not a camera that shoots, but a person.

          • anonym

            not presence, but absence!

    • Artem

      Nothing ISO 100 software? and the base 200.

  • Nicholas

    Good day. Nikon d90 is good for its time. There was ... Now for a keen amateur photographer the d7000 and 7100 will be more interesting because of the best matrices that are not much inferior in noise to the new ones. Ito with the condition of cheapness and good condition of the carcass. Here one pro offered a 5 d mark for 800 uev with a mileage of 130 thousand shutter actuations. (It is unclear on which frame the shutter will die). For myself, I realized that from DSLRs, cameras of the semi-pro level are more suitable for me. The younger ones just annoy me. Information on the monitor and ... without a picture! Limited controls, small shutter resource, plastic body. The LCD display is somehow more familiar and convenient.
    I know a lot of good photographers shoot on amateur cameras, just everyone has different requests. I used to quickly change and control the main shooting parameters. Progress does not stand still. If I am an amateur with a sufficient budget to buy a camera for creativity, then I will most likely buy a bezzerka. Here they play weight, dimensions, accessibility and a variety of settings, plus software assistants, etc. For myself, I would buy a DSLR just because of the small budget.

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