I used my first Nikon D40 camera for about 3 years, then I sold it, and a few years later, in 2015 I bought it again. Now I have a lot of practical experience with the Nikon D40, which I share in this review.
Nikon D40 review
The Nikon D40 was introduced on November 16, 2006, and became the fourteenth full-fledged Nikon digital SLR camera. Before its release, the following Nikon D1 cameras already existed, D1h, D1x, D100, D2h, D70, D2x, D2hs, D70s, D50, D200, D2xs, D80 (the list is shown in the order the cameras were released). Nikon D40 has opened a new class of Nikon cameras. Like Nikon D50, Nikon D40 belongs to the line of amateur cameras, but unlike all of the above cameras, the Nikon D40 was taken away from a very important thing - the focusing motor, which is responsible for autofocusing with non-motorized lenses like 'AF'. Thus, all Nikon D40 owners were automatically forced to use more modern and sometimes more expensive lenses such as AF S и AF-I. Many Nikon users cursed the company for taking away the Nikon D40's compatibility with a huge (really very large) fleet of old autofocus optics. On the other hand, the Nikon D40 turned out to be a very cheap camera, which is why it was bought by a huge number of users. Subsequently, Nikon did not pay attention to user complaints and continued the line of cameras, for which it was Nikon D40 that became the basis.
Nikon D40 Camera Setup Display
This camera is the `` youngest '', the slowest, with the worst focusing system and the simplest camera in the lineup of all digital SLR cameras Nikon... Don't expect stunning performance figures from it. If you need a more serious amateur camera for photography, then you should pay attention to the modern, latest and most 'feature-packed' device in this line - Nikon D5600... The Nikon D40 baby remains just a tool for amateur photographers who don't need modern 'gadgets'.
Nikon D40 with lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
Compared to more advanced cameras, the Nikon D40 does not have the following important functions:
- No built-in focus motor
- There is no front selector for the index finger of the right hand. This makes it difficult to configure many parameters. This selector was first thrown out of Nikon D50.
- There is no high speed sync function with Nikon external flash units.
- There is no function to control external flashes in automatic mode using the creative lighting system Nikon CLS.
- There is no diaphragm rheostat for working with manual optics.
- There is no way to shoot video.
- The camera does not know how to shoot panoramas, HDR, there is no time-lapse function, there is no bracketing, there is no function ADL, there is no control of vignetting, chromatic aberration, distortion and a million modern lotions typical of modern cameras.
But Nikon D40 retains the main thing - a large sensor. Physical matrix size (sensor) the Nikon D40 is the same as on modern expensive Nikon DX cameras: Nikon D7100, D7200, D5500, D5300, D3300 etc. One of the key differences between a DSLR and an ordinary digital compact is matrix size. In ideal shooting conditions, the Nikon D40 allows you to get the result on par with any modern Nikon DX camera.
NIkon D40 with lens Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D
Nikon D40 is Nikon's slowest DSLR camera. Maximum burst speed is only 2.5 frames per second... Its predecessor had the same low burst speed - Nikon D50. But not everything is so bad, if you delve into the characteristics of other cameras, you can find that professional cameras Nikon D300 и D300s also lower their speed to a miserable 2.5 frames per second during shooting with 14 bit color depth in RAW format. And also, if you recall that the top legendary Nikon D3X camera reduces the burst speed to meager 1.8 frames per second while shooting in RAW format with 14 bit color depth, the Nikon D40 doesn’t seem so slow at all.
When shooting at ISO HI1 (equivalent to ISO 3200), the burst speed drops to 1 fps, because the Nikon D40 is still the slowest camera in the entire Nikon DSLR family.
Frame buffer the Nikon D40 is also small and is:
- 4 frames in RAW format with all disabled advanced settings
- 3 frames in RAW + JPEG L BASIC format with all advanced settings disabled
- 8 frames in JPEG, L, FINE format with all advanced settings disabled
- 12 frames in JPEG, L, NORM format with all advanced settings disabled
- 18 frames in JPEG, L, BASIC format with all advanced settings disabled
- 60 frames in JPEG, S, BASIC format with all advanced settings disabled
- 3 frames in RAW format with all advanced settings enabled
- 2 frames in RAW + JPEG L BASIC format with all additional settings included
- 7 frames JPEG, L, FINE with all advanced settings enabled
- 11 frames JPEG, L, NORM with all advanced settings included
- 17 frames in JPEG, L, BASIC format with all advanced settings included
- 59 frames JPEG, S, BASIC with all advanced settings enabled
Please note that the Nikon D40 can only shoot in JPEG L BASIC quality when using RAW + JPEG.
Nikon D40 uses the most primitive Multi-CAM 530 focusing systeminstalled in only 3 cameras: Nikon D40, D40x, D60... In the future, this focusing module was abandoned. Unfortunately, the Nikon D40 has only 3 focusing points, only one center is cruciform. The camera tenaciously holds the subject, but it is quite difficult for it to keep track of moving objects. Also note that the Nikon D40 in focus mode AF-C has focus priority over shutter release priority. This little thing greatly interferes with work and is described by me in a separate article 'Nikon entry-level cameras and focus priority'.
Nikon D40 allows you to manually select only 5 ISO values: 200, 400, 800, 1600, HI (3200) units. Given that the Nikon D40 is the shortest excerpt equals 1/4000 s, sometimes the minimum ISO 200 can play a trick when using high-aperture optics.
Measurement exposure is 420 segment RGB sensor, which is used in a huge number of other cameras (for example, in Nikon D3400, D5100, D90 etc.). But the Nikon D40 froze exposure often carried out with errors, very often the camera likes to overexpose 2/3 steps. I do not know what this may be connected with. Very often you have to make additional adjustments from -0,3 to -1 2/3 steps.
The camera slows down a bit when turning on the display and when corrected exposure (while the display is activated, you can skip the frame).
Helpful advice - Set the programmable button to change the ISO, it will be a little easier to work with the camera. To add charm to the camera, turn off the siren (sound notification), which beeps when focusing. For more set the sharpness and color in the camera to 'Optim. snapshot -> VI '.
And what about Nikon D40x? Nikon D40x was introduced 4 months after the release of Nikon D40. The main difference in D40x there was another sensor for 10 megapixels. The letter 'x' after the name of the Nikon camera just speaks of the increase in the number of pixels on the sensor. In general Nikon D40 and D40x very similar, in something the Nikon D40 is even better than Nikon D40x. All the differences between the Nikon D40 and D40x will find in the Nikon D40x review.
Sample photos without processing
Below is a gallery of shots taken with the Nikon D40 and lens YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 YN100mm F2N for Nikon. The photos in the gallery below are shown without processing, the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Capture NX-D or ViewNX-I converter or the on-camera JPEG L FINE without any additional adjustments or on-camera JPEG.
Original JPEG photos can be download from this link. Examples of photos on YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 YN100mm F2N for Nikon with a little processing you can still see in my gallery here.
My experience or what really?
In fact, everything is simple, Nikon D40 is the last camera on the legendary 6-megapixel Sony ICX-453-AQ sensor. A list of all Nikon DSLR cameras and their sensors can be found at this link. Older cameras use the same sensor. Nikon D70, D70s и D50that delight the eye with a nice picture. Older camera Nikon D100 uses a similar matrix, but still different from the one on the Nikon D40. CCD matrices of these old men give a very nice color, for which they are appreciated.
Unlike Nikon D70, D70s, D50 и D100 Nikon D40 camera is the only one that uses a more modern image processor (processor), similar to the processor (processor) in cameras D200, D80, D40x. This processor allows ISO HI1 (ISO 3200 equivalent) and DL function for RAW images (this function was not available on previous models D50, D70, D70s etc.). A list of all the processors used in Nikon cameras can be found at this link.
Working with cameras on old 6-megapixel CCD matrices, I came to the conclusion that on-camera JPEG with Nikon D40 is the most pleasant. The Nikon D40 shots are some of the most enjoyable ones I got right away in on-camera JPEG. Of course, I really love cameras Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro и Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro, but with the Nikon D40, sometimes there are much fewer problems to achieve a good result.
Subjectively - Nikon D40 is my favorite camera... I've had about 5 different Nikon D40s over the years. The last one already has mileage more than 150.000.
Nikon D40 body on the secondary market can be found for 70-100 USD - it is one of the cheapest SLR cameras of all time. For 80-100 USD you can find a pretty super-zoom to it Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical and shoot for your own pleasure. My practice has shown that the cheapest and most functional set is just a bunch of Nikon D40 and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical.
Low-priced lenses are great for creative shooting. Nikon 35 / 1.8G DX, Nikon 50 / 1.8G, Yongnuo 35 / 2 и Yongnuo 50 / 1.8.
More sample photos on Nikon D40
- Video about Nikon D40
- More videos about Nikon D40
- examples on Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4E PF ED VR
- examples on Carl Zeiss Makro Planar 2/50 ZF.2 T *
- examples on Nikon Nikkor 105mm 1: 1.8
- examples on Sigma ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8-4.5 DC OS HSM Optical Stabilizer
- examples on Milvus 2/35 ZF.2 (Zeiss distagon 2 / 35 T *)
- examples on Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- examples on Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4 MACRO HSM Optical Stabilizer
- examples on Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
- examples on Tamron 180mm 1: 3.5 LD DI SP AF [IF] MACRO 1: 1
- examples on Nikon ED AF-S VR-Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8G (Vibration Reduction SWM IF)
- examples on yongnuo LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- examples on Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
- examples on Carl zeiss distagon 2.8 / 21 T * ZF.2
- examples on Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM
- examples on Sigma 30mm 1: 1.4 DC A (Art)
- examples on Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm 1: 1.8G ED N (Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF ED Aspherical)
- examples on Tamron SP 70-200mm F / 2.8 Di VC USD G2 A025
- examples on Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-P Auto 1: 2.5 f = 105mm
- examples on Telear-N 3.5/200
- examples on Nikon AF-S Nikkor 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6G Super ED VR IF N Nano Crystal Coat
- examples on Irix 150mm f / 2.8 Macro 1: 1 Dragonfly
- examples on Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24mm 1: 1.4G ED (SWM RF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat)
- examples on Carl zeiss distagon 2/28 ZF.2 T *
- examples on Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 2.8G II ED VR
- examples on SMC TAKUMAR 1: 1.8 / 55 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- examples on Jupiter-11A 4/135
- examples on Nippon Kogaku Japan NIKKOR-UD Auto 1: 3.5 f = 20mm
- examples on Industar-26m 1: 2.8 F = 5cm P
- examples on SMC PENTAX 1: 1.8 / 55 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- examples on Industar-50 1: 3,5 F = 5cm P
- examples on 7Artisans 60mm 1: 2.8 Macro II
- examples on SMC PENTAX-M 1:2.8 100mm ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- examples on Sigma Zoom 18-50mm 1:3.5-5.6 DC D
More examples of photos (selections of 10 photos) on Radozhiva's social networks:
- Autumn 2020 on Nikkor 50/1.8G
- Autumn 2021 on different versions of Helios-81, many photos
- Autumn 2022 on Nikon Nikkor 105mm 1:1.8
- Autumn 2023 on Sigma Zoom 18-50mm 1: 3.5-5.6 DC D
- Nikon D40 features with a pretty Zeiss Makro-Planar
- Summer 2021 on Nikon D40 and Tamron 70-210 / 2.8
- My 500px gallery
- 04-06-2021
- 11-06-2021
- 13-06-2021
- 16-06-2021
- 17-06-2021
- 01-07-2021 and they are here on club photo en
- 25-07-2021
- 26-07-2021 (Meike 85mm 1: 1.8 AF)
- 29/07/2021 (photo from christening)
- 02-08-2021 (Tamron 70-300 VC)
- 03-08-2021 (ginger paradise, Tamron 70-300 VC) facebook | club photo en | VK | Instagram | Twitter | Youtube
- 05-08-2021 (Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm)
- 07-08-2021 (Jupiter-8 1: 2 F = 5cm P, facebook) | VK
- 14-09-2021 (autumn, MC HELIOS-81H 2/50, Instagram) | VK
- 01-10-2021 (autumn, MC HELIOS-81M 2/53 club foro ru) | VK | Facebook | Instagram | Youtube
- 01-11-2021
- 09-12-2021 (portraits)
- 24-04-2022 (Sigma 85/1.4 ART)
- 30-07-2022 ('MACRO' for $3)
- 04-09-2022 ('Macro' on TV LENS f=50mm 1:1.4)
- 10-09-2022 (various on TELEAR-N 3.5/200)
- 13-10-2022 (Nikon Nikkor-S Auto 1:1.2 f=55mm)
- examples on video here
- examples on video here
- many photos on Nikon D40 and different lenses in the group here
Results
The Nikon D40 is Nikon's simplest DSLR, but its simplicity doesn't stop it from taking good pictures and having simple, straightforward controls. Nikon D40 lacks a huge number of useful functions and capabilities, however, it can handle 90% of standard photo tasks. One of my Nikon D40 cameras has already run over 150.000, the other has 120.000 shots and continues to shoot. Now Nikon D40 is considered morally obsolete, since after its release Nikon released a whole series of similar 'cut-down' cameras: Nikon D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D3400, D3500, as well as slightly more advanced D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500 и D5600. Now Nikon D40 is of interest to budget enthusiasts who want to join the world of SLR cameras.
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I read on different sites about this camera. I kept it in my head. Your review and opinions in the comments only strengthened my desire. I can’t say that I was engaged in constant monitoring of the market, I just sometimes looked at ads. And the other day I bought it. According to the picture, the impressions are good, I'm waiting for the weekend to test in more detail. Of course, the new cameras are much superior, but the D40 has a nice picture and its own charm! thanks
Arkady, hello. I have been renting D40 for 8 years with a full-time 18-55. After the fall (3 years ago), the petals broke off (glued) and the lens cracked (the quality of the photos was not reflected, a beautiful ray appears in side light :). Now my daughter is actively engaged in photography, she uses Helios 44. Another accident happened, the lens finally crashed and the pixel burned out - a dot and a line from it are burning.
That was the question (or rather there will be two):
1. Buy Nikon d7000 (mileage 2000, Nikkor 18-105 with a box and documents). Can I check it (back, front focuses, mileage, pixels, etc.)? And then (albeit in a very long term) upgrade it Nikkor 35mm 1,8 as a station wagon, and puff sb-700 (really like to shoot with an external flash). Later repair D40 and how to use a spare.
2. Or, for the same money, replace the matrix with D40, buy Nikkor 35mm 1,8 as a station wagon, Helios 81N for creativity and puff sb-700 (by the way, used or new - you can't really check them).
Hands itch to upgrade to d7000. I shoot mostly a family (house, street), landscapes, such a family report. Fotik is always and everywhere with us. I understand that the matter is in the hands and the second option will give a significant increase in the quality of photos, but the first will give a good update of functions, technologies, and a different level of carcass. With the prospect of additional upgrade of accessories (though how soon - I don't know).
I look forward to any thoughts.
You can change the control on the D300 / D300s TOP, you can on the D7000. D40 used costs less than $ 100, I see no reason to restore it, but buy a used one. low mileage (up to 50.000)
I bought the D40 in 2008 with a whale 18-55 m protective filter Marumi. He shot about 15000 frames. It works like a clock. Now I think to buy a fix for it 35 mm 1,8. And there is an idea to replace the whale 18-55 with 18-140.
But. Over time, I want something new. I looked at the D3300, not that. D5500 is closer to the topic. But their case is somehow flimsy and the buttons are smaller compared to the D40. It would be nice if the 7000th series. And ideally, a full frame. The most affordable is the D610, but it's a dream come true. Although if you wait, he still has to fall in price. I don’t want to take a used one.
Total. D40 is a wonderful device even for 2017. With a set of good optics for non-spoiled lovers, that’s it. If there is money, then you can switch to a more serious one, and give this to grandchildren. He will serve and delight for a long time.
Good afternoon! I apologize in advance for a possibly stupid question ... I'm just a teapot) So, I was on fire to buy myself a DSLR, learn to photograph. Stopped for a used Nikon d40 and Canon d450, at the same price. Please advise what to choose (in the future I want to master the Helios lens)? Thank you in advance.
Yes, let the local Nikonians-tsdshniki throw stones at me, but I sincerely advise 450d.
I had both that and that device: 450d is better on the head in everything.
If, other things being equal, I would take 450d without question, especially under helios.
What about the Nikon d3100 compared to the Canon 450d? For the price, he also did not go far.
Nikon writes the video, the matrix resolution is a couple of megapixels larger and (it seems) a 12-bit RAV
I didn’t hold the d3100 in my hands, but I don’t like the entire junior line of Nikonov because of the disgusting control, so I would still choose 450d for myself without hesitation, but advise someone else based only on my love for canons and dislike for Nikons ... would.
If it’s enough for the d3100, then I would advise you to look for the Canon 1100d, or even better, the 500d or very well if the 550d. But this is my opinion, I say, d3100 did not pick up.
Thanks to everyone who shared their thoughts! I would also like to hear the opinion of Arkady)
I don’t know whether it’s still relevant, BUT:
if in the future you want to deal with the Helios lens, then all the same it is better than Kenon, more on it (if there is an adapter) it will melt right away and take off normally.
In Nikon, on the other hand (you also need an adapter, of course), but on Nikon he only takes close objects (2-3 meters) due to the peculiarities of the internal structure of the camera. But there are many lessons on the Internet how this is all solved. I say so myself went through this myself, and now I'm shooting on Helios Nikon (D7000, D70).
But I would still recommend Nikon D40 (according to your question), since the CCD matrix gives a much more beautiful color than the Kenon KMOP. Yes, and the RAWs from this Nikon cheer in the same Photoshop, it is easy to get an excellent result.
Although it will be noticed only by more professional photographers and designers.
So do not worry and take what is cheaper or in better condition.
You forget about Helios-81n (m), which has a Nikon mount and a working diaphragm. What will never happen on Kenon (camera-controlled diaphragm).
But finding it now is another problem. Even if you find it, the price tag for it will be beat 3 times more than for analogues of the m42. Three conventional threaded lenses or one, but with a native mount - a difficult choice.
Convenience outweighs. Not only is he under Nikon, he has much better ergonomics. I tried to shoot with both - the difference in convenience is big. And prices - sometimes they sell 44-2 more expensive.
it is strange that the davas with the D40 stretch well
and Soviet optics - just indulge, tk. native fifty dollars cheap
From d40, the ravki last very badly. I’ve been shooting for 40 years for five years. Rav is practically useless for him. It may work well on a specific program, but on adobe, the rou camera is just trash.
You need to pull on your own
Hello Arkady!
You have extensive experience using the D40. Tell me, does it support SD flash cards over 4 GB?
Yes, it does. Maximum 32 GB and no problems.
Hello.
I don’t know which Nikon to buy as the first.
New or used. Some advise starting with a used one. Do not spend a lot of money.
Nikon d3100 in the secondary market sell for 7-8K rubles. And the D3200 for 10K.
The new D3300 kit costs 23K. Or buy immediately 7100 kit for 62K? In the future, I think to use it for commercial purposes. And for this, the d3300 will not work, right?
d3300 new for 23k - good price
If you are just studying, and then “for commercial purposes” select cheaper and easier. Suddenly it won't work, you won't like it, the business will burn out.
It's very simple - it all depends on the budget you are willing to spend. You can start with anything.
There is a big difference between 3100 and 3200 - in the matrix, screen, microphone, remote control. Between 3200 and 3300 in support for af-p lenses, which is not significant. So 3200 or already 7xxx.
3200 vs 3300 are also different matrices
I apologize for the probably stupid question, but how realistic / easy is it to twist on a DSLR in general and on the D40 in particular, "mileage"? How often do they do this?
And is it really possible to meet D2018 with mileage <40K on sale in 20?
It is difficult to twist. And 20k is an absolute reality. This is an amateur camera that is rarely filmed. The camera of 2006, for 12 years, it turns out 2000 per year.
Very simple. Shutter Replacement.
Twisting the counter and changing the shutter are two different things.
The process of adjusting the mileage of the shutter counter is very simple when you have special service software and the ability to use it. But, simply, hardly anyone will bother to twist it in an amateur DSLR, where the mileage, as Arkady correctly said, is unlikely to be large.
I know real camera users whose mileage is around 6 thousand frames. They simply take pictures on vacation at 200 a year and family photographs on holidays for another 300 frames. On sale you can find such cameras with a range of 5-10 thousand frames. Often the camera is taken as the second (third), then even with an active amateur photographer, the mileage of such a camera may not be very high.
The price of the D40 is low and low mileage is unlikely to affect it. I bought in 2016 with a mileage of about 1K.
I bought ebee last year with mileage of 4 thousand frames, with a native live battery
I shoot them too little, maybe 1 thousand frames per year
By the way, about overexposure, maybe this is a feature of my camera, but even if the metering mode is matrix, the basic information is taken from the central part of the frame, as with center-weighted metering. The size of the metering zone is approximately within the center focus point.
I’ve been shooting this camera + lens 18-70 since 2007. Mileage more than 160000. One of the important advantages over other cameras of this level is the synchronization with the flash 1/500 second. With the SB-600, it was easy to shoot portraits with the sun in the frame during the day. For some reason, in subsequent models this is not. Almost all 1/200 sec.
This is due to the first electronic shutter shutter, which also has a Nikon D50, D70, D70s (cameras with the same sensor).
And take a flash without ttl contacts or stick them apart from the central one and there will be 1/4000 synchronization
Arkady, hello. I want to try to replace the sensor (matrix) myself with the D40. I plan to buy on aliexpress (only $ 20). Can you tell the nuances hidden? The video is sensible on YouTube parsing, but maybe what kind of software malfunctions may be or will the configuration be needed? Share your experience if available (link sensible). Thanks.
Good day. I won’t tell you that. Maybe someone else will answer
Thanks. Waiting for.
Arkady, help me figure out the situation. I took some pictures for comparison. Nikon d40 18-55 and nikon d7000 18-105 (the settings are the same shutter speed, iso, aperture, focal, all noise reduction and other OFF). In all cases, I would say that D40 took pictures of d7000. Well, about the juicier picture of the d40 sensor is clear. But d40 sharpness is better ?! D 7000 does not miss - I checked it. As I understand it, the difference will be visible when using decent lenses, the same fifty dollars? Or digging into the settings?
Understood nothing. If about the fact that 40 is sharper with simple lenses, then perhaps the pixels are larger.
The D40 has by no means a more juicy picture, we can assume that in some situations the color there is more pleasant. Visual perception of identical images often says that images at d40 are sharper.
The question, in fact, is not entirely clear to me.
If not difficult, look at two photos https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PrQ9MxgQPQhH9zGsKf4F3tqtsXk3ThnX... On one, even the pores are visible. Of course, I'll set the sharpness to 9, the rest of the settings in the editors are simpler ...
“D7000 does not miss - I checked it” In the photo with D7000 - back focus, take another photo, but focus in LV
Is it?
I saw, therefore, recommend focusing on the screen to exclude back focus.
Well, yes, on a target like 14 mm back focus. Corrected in the camera, fell into place. Does it need to be treated or is each lens now adjusted? Thanks.
Camera to the service?
Adjust each lens. If it leads equally to all focal points, then it makes no sense to carry it to the service.
there is a possibility that the zoom lens at different focal lengths will require different corrections, but the service will not help with this either. Set correction once for all lenses and that’s it. If there is not enough range of camera corrections, then only to the service or try to use the service software to make the correction more in the camera.
Sorry, but I wouldn’t do anything at all. In my opinion, a perfectly suitable image. When developing, you need to correct the white balance (this could be done when shooting), slightly increase the contour sharpness, well, retouch a couple of places (if necessary). The output format must be sRGB. The result will be a good frame.
The parameters that affected the preview JPEG are not exactly the same. Camera profiles: D7000 standart, D40 Mode IIIa (different sharpening, different contrast, different saturation). Also, color spaces: On the D7000 they set - AdobeRGB, on the D40 - sRGB (do everything in sRGB). The white balance of the car, of course, is slightly different (the D40 is warmer and slightly purple, the D7000 is colder and slightly green). It'll all be right. And of course, the cameras had different lenses, they have different sensors, different harnesses and gave different results. On D40, the picture is underexposed, the contrast is sharper. I don't know why you liked it, on the D7000 the result for further work is definitely better.
Igor, what will you “dig up” in the settings? BB shift to warm, contrast, sharpen. You can't see the SD picture anyway. And the lens 18-55, probably ED or ED II, is not bad in terms of colors and sharpness.
See what I found - Nikon CCD color mode IIIa and Ia for modern Nikon cameras https://wowcamera.info/viewtopic.php?t=1305 Your opinion? IMHO great and high quality people have worked ...
There is a whole site of high-quality presets for Nikon, which seem to mimic something: https://nikonpc.com/
I write “as it were”, because: 1) to simulate something you need to have not the worst parameters. If the DD of your camera is much narrower than the DD simulated, then how do not pull it, the result will be completely different. 2) Nikon's presets control a limited set of parameters (very limited), so you can fix it very little and very roughly.
However, the profile can simplify processing. For Adobe modules (ACR or LR), you can profile the camera with higher quality. But again - the profile is not a panacea.
Hello to all amateurs and professionals.
I bought this miracle the other day, largely thanks to the site of Arkady, his review and review of the Nikon D40. Yes, this is a very pleasant thing, I was not mistaken in expectations, and the descriptions on the site are consistent. The sharpness of the 18-55 lens with VR is sufficient, in general, everything corresponds to the description. The D80 (a matrix of the same type, only 10 megapixels) gives, as it seems to me, more juicy photographs than the D40 (this is the first impression, but has not really experimented yet). But the D40 is fascinating with its smaller size and simplicity in settings (after a complicated one it draws to simplicity, and vice versa).
My resume is that to appreciate and love the Nikon D40, you have to at least be an advanced amateur or professional. Therefore, it is still possible to buy a used Nikon D40 in good condition from the rest of Nikon D40 holders.
Arkady, a question for you. You say that “.. my practice has shown that the cheapest and most functional set is just a bundle of Nikon D40 and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical.”
I also liked this lens, but often come across reviews about it, that it is not durable, it often breaks. Do you think these reviews are true? You have a lot of practice, how is this lens in terms of reliability?
A lens, like a lens, at its price is very difficult to find something similar to the original.
Faced such a problem (just bought a used Nikon D40) when updating the firmware to v.1.12. When downloading this firmware from the official Nikon website, Dr.Web antivirus blocks and detects a Trojan in the firmware.
Has anyone had a similar situation?
So this latest firmware v.1.12 is needed? Almost anyone appreciated it?
enemy antivirus - down with it!
freedom to native viruses!
I myself also very consciously bought a CHEAP D40 and I am glad about that. No dust inside, no dust in the eyepiece (unlike the D5100). Great choice!
PS: For some reason the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm is listed as “… .18-135m” The letter is missing at the end.
Fixed
Hello, Arkady.
I’ve already shot it on the D40, everything is fine, I like everything, in the sense of simplicity in settings and management (by the way, the simplicity of settings and management gives decent speed in work, it seems to me not be inferior to the professional camera), the quality of the pictures. But since I am not a pro, that is, a question for you, to which I have not yet found the answer in your articles, or did not understand something.
In some of my shots in sunny weather, the sky turns out slightly towards the green from the blue, I repeat slightly, this is when I shoot more towards the sun. If the sun is behind, then the sky is great - blue. Well, this is understandable with the sun, when it is behind. Do you think this light greenery appears (when towards the sun) due to overexposure? You say - do the bracketing more negatively, I will do it, but now I sit at the computer, and I will do it later. It's just that when overexposed, the sky turns into a whitish color, but here it is slightly greenish.
I set IIIa (sRGB) in the camera color settings, and there is Ia (sRGB). Which is better to set, and how do they differ? Maybe it affects the color like that?
ia - natural colors, suitable for portraits. iiia - for vibrant colors, landscape for example. You have to look after the fact about the sky.
Thanks, I’ll also experiment with the exposure.
Good evening, Arkady. A little unclear, educate about the optimization of images (in the menu). There is an optimization of pictures for modes P, S, A, M - N (standard), VI (bright), PO (portrait), etc. and “custom settings” (customization of optimization parameters by the user). That is, “custom settings” are an independent image optimization parameter or will these settings additionally adjust each set - N, VI, PO, etc.? In Nikon D7100, each parameter (portrait, landscape, etc.) can be additionally corrected (change sharpness, contrast, etc.), and an additional number is assigned to the parameter - this is understandable according to your Nikon D7100 review and in practice. And Nikon D40 is a little unclear.
The second question is - do you use these “own settings”, and in what cases?
Good afternoon.
In Nikon D40, each of the picture modes cannot be further tuned. More modern cameras allow you to make your own adjustments for each mode. For example, for PO (portrait) sharpen or color saturation.
But the Nikon D40 has a “custom settings” mode with which, like in newer cameras, you can specify your own settings for these parameters.
Regarding these modes - if I shoot in RAW and develop corrections with third-party programs (ACR, Lightroom), then I am not attached to shooting modes. Third-party software does not see these modes. But in such cases, it is still better to turn off various improvements, like ADL
If I shoot in JPEG, then I very carefully adjust these modes, even on the Nikon D40.
Sometimes, in rare cases, for example, for photographs in a review, I adjust the modes while shooting in RAW, but then I show equal to native software that understands all these settings.
Clear. It turns out your own settings are a separate independent parameter. That's how I first understood and took a photo with these own settings. But I decided to ask all the same, because exif shows custom (by the way, I just looked at the translation - these are my own settings). But thanks anyway.
But these own settings are difficult to select for tasks (portrait, landscape, etc.). It will also affect focal and lighting, etc. to select your own settings. I probably complicate. But in the answer you write that you really do it carefully. Experience is experience, I mean yours.
Anyway, the D40 is a nice thing.
Here is today's shot at d40. Also your own settings. The most difficult thing is to choose the contrast, it is also "tonality correction".
The picture is excellent, and even with a Chinese lens. With this photo you, Arkady show what the master is doing on the D40, which was forgotten by everyone and is being sold inexpensively.
As I understand it, and I can do that on the D40. Joke. It’s a joke, because I understand that a good shot is a selection of many interdependent shooting parameters, and this I repeat only experience and skill.
Well, the 100 2.0 lens itself is not so bad. Here here I have another gallery on d40. In fact, on the same 500 pixels there are masters many times superior to my skills.
Made bookmarks in your gallery, I'll see later, it's too late.
And about your remark that there are many times better masters, then I answer that the assessment of a photograph is not only a professional's business, but also a subjective perception. That is, the assessment of ordinary advanced amateur photographers.
This is about how only the black square of Malevich can be appreciated by professionals. And so nobody needs this square and nafig.
In short, Arkady, if you didn’t like your pictures, we wouldn’t look at them and your blog.
In general, your blog educates on many issues of photographic equipment and photography, which you did not understand.
I have a Nikon D40 in conjunction with a Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM, the lens gives good sharpness and color. Also bought inexpensively.
I have a Nikon D7100, which I bought 2 years ago (I thought that this technique would give an order of magnitude better photo quality than inexpensive cameras). But I realized that quality does not work out an order of magnitude better, and for an amateur, the D40 is enough, which gives out masterpieces no worse than what you Arkady strongly convinced.
Nikon D7100 - well, very good, without exaggeration, and focusing and functionality in general, but should serve a professional.
I would read your articles 3 years ago - I would not make mistakes. Nikon knows how to cheat "inexperienced" for money.
Tell me, which camera to take for a start (first SLR), D40 or D3200? I plan to put optics 35mm 1,8
D3200. Maybe forever. Her quality is not much inferior to 7100, 7200, not to mention the newer 5x00, 3x00.
But what about all the listed advantages of the D40 in the review?
You must understand that this camera is very morally obsolete. The benefits are only for those who can appreciate color, and this comes after about 300.000 frames and not everyone.
For a start, as the first, but not the only one, I think d40. Its advantages, in addition to the low cost, lightness of files, synchronization with flash 1/500, sharpness, incl. at short shutter speeds - an interesting color, especially beneficial for portraits and landscapes. From 35 / 1,8 it will be all the more sharp and clean.
The D40 model has not been produced for a long time, that is, all instances that can be found are old. What can you say about the permissible number of dead pixels, if they are permissible at all, are they really present on most of these old models? The question arose when buying a used Nikon D40.
Also tell me, do you really miss the ISO 100? The article refers to aperture optics, which optics can be considered aperture in this case (for example, 35mm f1,8 from the post above)?
Now, in 2018, I have one Nikon D40 for home, for the soul. Personally, beaten, hot pixels do not bother me and never bother me. The vast majority of them are not visible in the photo, if you convert RAW files by third-party converters, then they are masked automatically (usually). Sooner or later, they appear on CCD matrices and you can just come to terms with this.
ISO 200 and 1/4000 s are not a serious problem. I don’t think that if you close the aperture to F / 2.8 several times a year while shooting outdoors, then this photo will lose much in quality.
In bright sunlight, the Nikon D40 often rests against the F / 2.8 aperture. Usually fast aperture optics are just F / 2.8 and lower. I am currently using 100 / 2.0 with Nikon D40 without any special problems. Also, I love polarizing filters, with them in general the problem of exposure disappears completely. The same problem can be observed in the Nikon D50 and Nikon D100, for example, here is the gallery on the Nikon D100, EXIF is indicated on the right, used fast lens with f / 1.8 and polar, while look at the resulting exposure - there are no drifts above 1/2000 s even at F / 1.8
When buying, I counted about 20 broken pixels. It's just that the pixel itself on such a camera is bold, won't it stand out ... By converting from RAW, it's better not to shoot to JPEG?) _
Sorry for the fraud, but this is the routine of a beginner) _
It will not (although, probably, theorists will come running and tell you that this is bad). But in a previous post, I indicated my experience. By the way, this d80 with a thousand hot pixels.
RAW or JPEG is a big philosophical question that doesn't have a single answer. It all depends on the situation, goals and skills to work with RAW. Shoot in RAW + JPEG at first, tinker around and see what works best.
And Nikon D40 in the hands of a beginner will not do a miracle. The camera will give a good result only with the right approach, in fact, like all photographic equipment.
You probably confuse the beaten and the hot. Well, not the point, in any case, you should not focus on them if you do not photograph the starry sky for long exposures, but even this is not a problem. There is a program for remapping pixels, I did not use it myself but read it. Listen to Arkady about RAW and JPEG, if you don’t know what to do with the rou, then shoot in JPEG Fine, I assure you that even Arkady will not see the difference, especially since the D40 has a very suitable JPEG and there is always the opportunity to correct it.
Right
Andrey, you don’t worry about that. With the D40 you will have completely different difficulties. Despite a number of interesting points, this matrix has a rather small dynamic range and noise quickly grows with increasing ISO. Where for an experienced photographer to get an excellent shot a couple of trivial things, for a beginner there are continuous problems.
For home amateur use no problem. On the contrary (this is for Andrei) you will get the quality of photographs that more experienced photographers who have gone through all the thorns of photography are happy and enthusiastic about.
Take only the D40 camera (for Andrey) with good external condition and not very high mileage (up to 10-12 thousand) and you will not regret it.
And the functionality of the D40 is very convenient and advanced for use.
For days I bought a fifty-fifty 1,8D and D40 as a back cover to the lens. Without wires, charging, eye cup and other paraphernalia. Fortunately, the battery was on its own and turned out to be pretty alive.
The camera barely laundered. The dirt from outside use is not so upset as the depressing state of the matrix. Almost the entire stock of mops was exhausted, while it achieved an acceptable result. There were barely noticeable small points that appear on the diaphragms above 22. But this, apparently, is dirt on the matrix itself, under the IR filter. It looks like traces of condensation. In principle, you can leave it that way, but the fucking perfectionism is in the way.
Therefore, the question is Namber van: is it possible to somehow wash the matrix under the filter?
And the second question.
With the puffs of a flash, smoke and an unpleasant odor appear. The flash glass is some kind of pokotsenoe and does not clean anything. Apparently, it burns out from a powerful savet impulse. Is it possible to polish it (glass) (dremel, for example)? This is, in fact, the second question.
Thank you!
He took off the flash glass, stitched the caverns on a fine emery cloth, then polished it. Now flames brightly and without smoke. :)
The shutter button was coated with glitter nail polish. I find traces of these sparkles all over the carcass. There is a suspicion that the flash was also decorated and metallized sparkles burned out, trapping cavities on the outer surface of the flash glass.
The paths of "blondes" are inscrutable :)
And the camera turned out to be interesting! As if in gratitude for the wash, he pleased me with a nostalgic "lamp" picture.
Arkady, help sort out the situation. I bought a D40, I encountered such a problem. On a 32 GB card, it takes 10-15 shots and then gives an error that the card is malfunctioning. Checked the card, it is working. They put another, the same thing. I inserted a 512 MB card, it works fine, it clogs with photos completely. Tell me what could be the problem? Thanks in advance. Sorry if that, this is my first DSLR
Try to remove the battery and without it repeatedly insert and remove the USB flash drive, the contact may have acidified. On the fifth nex, this method helped, also dodged with one card.
Try formatting the card in the camera itself.
My question for amateur photographers is the Nikon D40 will work with a Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL lens?
Yes, it will.
Thanks . My first SLR was Nikon D40
pictures from him
https://500px.com/photo/200611327/%D0%B4%D0%B2%D1%83%D1%85%D0%B3%D0%BB%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%BE%D0%B1%D1%80-%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B7-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%8F-by-ramil-gainanov?ctx_page=3&from=user&user_id=17348567
https://500px.com/photo/200468763/%D0%B4%D0%B2%D1%83%D1%85%D0%B3%D0%BB%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%BE%D0%B1%D1%80-%D1%8C-%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B7-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%8F-by-ramil-gainanov?ctx_page=3&from=user&user_id=17348567
PS Today I paid for a new one.
https://500px.com/photo/279836349/%D0%BF%D0%B5%D1%80%D1%8C%D1%8F-by-ramil-gainanov?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=17348567
I bought Nikon D40 with ROM version 1.11
Does it make sense to upgrade to ROM 1.12?
No special meaning
Dear Arkady!
Thank you for the great work in filling and maintaining your site. Please tell me if the Nikon d40 has metering with manual lenses, for example, m42. Regards, Alexey
No dandelion no
Thank you!