Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical (this is the full name of this lens, written on its body) is ordinary advanced full-time zoom lens... It comes as a base for some cameras and is often referred to as'whale'(from the English' kit '- kit). Now Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G can be found with almost all Nikon DX cameras elementary and intermediate. It originally came as one of three options for the camera. Nikon D90, own, it was announced along with this camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens suitable exclusively for APS-C DSLR cameras Nikon DX, which means that it is not designed for full frame cameras, but for so-called 'cropped' cameras. The full list of Nikon DX cropped cameras can be viewed here... Install Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on full-frame cameras Nikon fx Not recommended.
Main technical specifications of Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical ∞-0.45m / 1.48ft Ø67 Made in Thailand US36549947 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-105 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-157.5 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 5.83 X (usually rounded to 6) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 105 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 3.5 stops by CIPA standards, 3 stops by Nikon standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 420 g |
| Optical design | 15 elements in 11 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China. |
| Period | From August 27, 2008 to the present day (at least until the summer of 2017) |
| 3D view | View -> |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, view from the bayonet side
Assembly
A copy of this review was made in Thailand. Important: Since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is pleasant and weighty to the touch, weighing just over 400 grams. The lens uses common 67mm color filters.
Please note that the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on the mount side does not have a special rubber gasket, which is an indication that the lens has dust and moisture protection. It is better not to expose the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G to severe moisture and dust tests.
The focus ring is plastic, and the zoom lens is rubberized. Unfortunately, the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has plastic bayonet, for which many photographers dislike it. The plastic mount is the first sign that the user is facing a lens from the simplest Nikon Nikkor line of lenses. For example, among the universal Nikon DX lenses, only the simplest kit lenses of the class have a plastic mount. 18-55/3.5-5.6 and another not very successful Nikon 18-135 / 3.5-5.6G.
The retractable lens barrel consists of two sections, to the touch they are quite durable, without any backlash.
With frequent use, the lens may begin to suffer from spontaneous lengthening of the frame (trunk of the lens) under its own weight.
There is a bayonet mount mark and a mark on the case for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses an HB-32 plastic lens hood, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The lens hood comes with the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the zoom ring is partially lost. Exactly the same lens hood Nikon 18-70, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-140.
When changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens body like a pump - it draws in and pushes out air. This behavior of the rear lens is called 'vacuum cleaner effect', which can increase the amount of dust that accumulates in the camera. You can clearly see the effect of a vacuum cleaner with a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens here.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G comes with a CL-1018 soft case, and the lens itself comes in a small cardboard box with a characteristic Nikon coloring.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, rear information part
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 105 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.3
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, maximum length
Stabilizer
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has a second generation 'Nikon VR' image stabilizer that can compensate for 3.5 stops by shutter speed. In values excerpts this means that you can shoot at shutter speeds 10-12 times longer than what the lens without a stabilizer requires.
The manual for the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens says 3 stops (measured by Nikon), and the official website 3.5 feet (measured by CIPA). In any case, the stabilizer works well.
To enable / disable the stabilizer on the lens there 'VR ON / OFF' button. The stabilizer itself works well. I was able to take pictures without grease and hard work at 105 mm focal length and 1/30 second. Unlike more advanced lenses, such as Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical, this lens does not have the ability to switch stabilizer modes.
While the image stabilizer is turned on and off, the viewfinder may twitch slightly, this is the norm and should not be afraid. The stabilizer is turned on by pressing the focus activation button.
The lens can track the movement of the camera during panorama shooting. In this case, the stabilizer will suppress vibration only in the direction perpendicular to the movement of the camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with the most extended frame of the case and the established hood
Focusing
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D90, D200 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 5 magnification... Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with hood in transport mode
Image quality
The lens is sharp enough in the center of the frame, even on open apertures. Sharpness sags a little at 105 mm. Unfortunately, the corners and edges of the image on open apertures remain very weak. The lens also suffers from chromatic aberration and vignetting. Modern cameras can automatically correct vignetting and chromatic aberration.
Of course, at 18 mm you can see barrel-shaped distortion, which becomes pads like with an increase in focal length. The level of dystoria is at an adequate level for comfortable perception of the image.
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G well tolerates side and back light and shows good contrast, which is typical of modern universal lenses. In general, I did not find anything particularly bad or good in the quality of the image obtained with the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical
Examples of photos on Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
UPDATED
More examples on Nikon D5600:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Examples on Nikon D7200:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical prices
Actual lens prices can see here, or in the price block below:
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My experience
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical was my first universal lens for my first two cameras Nikon D40 и Nikon D90. I used it a little over a year, after which I changed it to Tamron 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF). Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is nothing more than an ordinary whale lens with a slightly expanded focal length, which allows you to use part of the tele-range.
For a month, I was simultaneously holding Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical, which allowed me to compare their capabilities. As a result, it turned out that using a range of focal lengths of 18-105 is several times more convenient than using 18-55. The ability to use 105 mm of focal length on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is one of the lens's greatest strengths. Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G also has a more pleasant / solid appearance and it is much more convenient to handle it than with 18-55.
This lens is not a bit suitable as a regular lens for some more or less serious shootings (wedding, responsible reporting, etc.). I took off 4 wedding on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and now I regret it. In the same time Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G fits very well for simple tasks. He repeatedly helped me out on hikes, on vacation, for homely leisurely filming. Like it or not, but finding a more balanced lens than the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is very difficult.
From cheap universal lenses for Nikon DX cameras, I advise you to look at the options Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. True, these lenses can only be found in use on the secondary market. A good replacement for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G are Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
The most similar lens from a third-party manufacturer is Sigma Zoom 18-125mm 1: 3.8-5.6 DC OS HSM (Optical Stabilizer).
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Thank you the store www.fotika.com.ua behind provided by Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens, which I took for a while to create photos with its appearance.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm on camera Nikon D40x
Results
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens performed quite well as universal lens for amateur photographers. On vacation, he is simply indispensable. Unfortunately, one should not expect high optical performance from such a lens. In general, the lens is good for its price class.
I recommend it as the very first lens for Nikon DX cameras. It is best to buy a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G kit (together with the camera), in which case the cost of the camera and lens will be lower than their total cost separately. Using Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is much more convenient than class lenses. 18-55/3.5-5.6 due to the wider range of focal lengths.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thank you, but my friend is asking for your advice on the matter what is better for him to take Nikon 90mm f / 50G AF-S or Nikon 1.8 f / 50D AF Nikkor on the d1.8, or do you recommend another?
Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S is better, if there is no money, then you can also Nikon 50 f / 1.8D AF, it is difficult to find other cheap good lenses.
and the difference is felt between the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S and the Nikon 50 f / 1.8D AF ?? is it the d90, does it have its own motor or is it better when there is an autofocus motor on the lens itself?
This review has a comparison of these lenses. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/02/obzor-nikon-50-mm-f-1-8-g-af-s/ The difference is not only in the focusing drive, but also in the optical design and in a million other things.
Hello, Arkady. I'm going to take my first SLR (I'm not a pro). So far, I have opted for the Nikon D3200 with an 18-55 VR black lens and there is an option with an 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor lens. What do you advise? Thank you in advance.
I recommend D3200 from 18-105
Arkady, thanks for the quick reply. One more question. I read in reviews that this lens simply “dies” at dusk and during night shooting. Something is not very hard to believe. And what about the option with two 18-55 DX VR + 55-200 DX VR lenses?
Dying in terms of focus? This is due to the low value of the number F, with the rest it will be the same.
If I understand correctly, the 18-105mm option will be preferable to the 18-55 DX VR + 55-200 DX VR?
Due to the fact that 55-200 gives 200mm, then 15-55 + 55-200 will be better. I wrote in the previous answer only for focusing.
Hello Arkady!
My question is about VR work. True to the Nikon 16-85 lens
When reading the instructions on the lens 16-85 drew attention to the phrase:
“Do not turn off the camera or remove the lens while using vibration reduction.”
It turns out that you need to switch the vibration reduction switch to the OFF position each time before turning off the camera?
Although at this moment the shutter button is not pressed (even halfway) and the VR vibration reduction system is not activated. I admit that VR can be powered.
The question of saving battery when off VR is clear to me.
Is the same implementation in 18-105?
at 18-105 the same implementation. I never followed this rule and everything was fine. Most likely this is due to the fact that BP works for some time after depressing the key and at the same time do not open the power circuit.
VR after releasing the shutter button works in less than half a second! This point is not very clear in the camera instructions ... Unless, if only for a while, turn off the camera or remove the lens after releasing the start button…. Most likely this is the same as in the instructions for the microwave - "It is forbidden to dry cats in the microwave after bathing."
Arkady, thanks for the answer.
Arkady, do you think it makes sense to exchange a regular 18-55 for this with a surcharge, despite the fact that in the near future I'm going to take Helios 81 and Nikkor 35 1,8
Yes, there is a point, 105 mm sometimes help out.
we will take!
All those interested - had the misfortune to try this "miracle of engineering thought", and was extremely disappointed. No, not with soap, darkness, BOKE, - here all the shortcomings (or rather, the features) are quite EXPECTED and in advance
were forgiven with the amendment to “Kit” (well, there was simply no “body” that was interesting to me separately, but I didn't want to wait). Killed me to death, oddly enough, DISTORSIYA. I have never seen such a disgusting picture in 25 years of “clicking” on any other lens! And to correct in the editor - sorry, but this is nonsense! (Well, at least the same “soapiness” around the edges of the frame grows before our eyes.) Yes, all (even terribly expensive) zooms have the inevitable barrel-cushion, but not in the same sizes! And this "barrel" generally looks more like the smirk of a Chinese engineer or the hump of a camel! Thinking, I handed back a wonderful camera along with this "whale", and in order not to wait - I had to spend money on a more expensive camera, but sold at all without such a "bayonet cap". To be fair, I don't regret replacing the “body” at all.
Do not blame me, but my personal opinion is that this “miracle of engineering thought” can only be used far from the city (ie, where there are no regular geometric shapes), for 12-16MP matrices its “sharpness” and other “important for fans of the characteristics "quite" at the level. However, I would not recommend considering 18-105 as a “reasonable purchase” FOR FULL PRICE. (Even if this is a “kit” for half the price, it’s worth thinking twice! And reselling “later, when I’m smarter” is unrealistic, however, like 18-55!)
If you buy "fixes" for APS-C, then first the 35th (or even the 28th), and then the 50th. Not the other way around!
Undoubtedly, the 50th (1.8 or 1.4 is a separate topic) is not bad for portraits, but a portrait is not only a face, it is also a half-length and a group one ... not everything will fit indoors in the 50th! If, however, they shoot landscapes, upon closer inspection, it turns out that the perspective has slightly "shrunk" ...
Remember: for the APS-C, the 35th is the so-called. “Staff” (analogue of “fifty kopecks” on film cameras), and the 50th is the initial “portrait lens” (the 85th is more like a “correct portrait lens” (equiv. 135), but the price of 85 / 1.8 ... has something to think about if the photo is just a hobby).
If you try to save money, you can also look for a zoom wagon “on the side”. So from the "budget" zooms, do not consider it an advertisement - Nikkor AF-S 18-70 / 3.5-4.5 - although it does not have VR - it seems to me less vile in all respects, but has already been discontinued (you can search for used ones for about 150 American); or Sigma 18-50 / 2.8-4.5 (about 250 new, even VR is, only it consumes the battery more actively and “parks” for some time) - at least in the city it is more tolerant in geometry. Willing to spend a little more - Sigma 17-70 / 2.8-4, and so on. By the way - yes, Sigmas are not as bad as "authorities" usually tell about them on forums! But there are no miracles either - for about the same price - similar quality, not “cheap, but cool”. Photography is an expensive hobby ... For example Nikkor AF-S 18-200 / 3.5-5.6G VR ... is universal, but if the price is even for a used one, what about its price / quality?
And more - about color rendition. Don't be smart, gentlemen-comrades!
A correct picture can be obtained only when illuminated from a light source with a CONTINUOUS spectrum! Mercury, sodium, luminescent (including "housekeeping"), etc. “Street” lamps ARE NOT that! They have a spectrum of radiation more than a fence made of boards ... (It is almost impossible to correct the picture.) If you are shooting “on location” or with incandescent lamps, set the white balance on the camera to Auto, and save it in NEF. From 12-14 bits / color on a computer, even with the free native ViewNX2, you can EASILY fix almost any color automation error, while Nikon has it, if it is, it is “non-fatal”. More likely - you yourself have chosen the wrong color balance before shooting ... or in the Picture Control settings "climbed". Of course, jpeg fans are at greater risk (8 bits / color, i.e. margin for error is less).
Thanks for the valuable information.
Arkady, please. True, he wrote for those who are “still looking”. You have probably known all this for a long time. Here's for beginners - in order not to step “on the rake” sometimes seemingly obvious things have to be repeated several times. For them I will repeat once more -
1. DO NOT EXPECT miracles from a budget zoom.
2. No camera will make a “masterpiece” for you.
3. Photography is LIGHTWEIGHT, learn to work correctly with light (or at least use it).
4. It's a pity to spend money - buy a "compact" with megazum (at the same time you will save the living space).
PS. And to you, Arkady - many thanks for your educational efforts. There is someone to redirect the “suffering” for an authoritative opinion. Good luck!
Thanks. I write for the same thing.
Hello Arkady! Thank you for your blog, I got a lot of useful information for myself. I plan to buy nikon aps-c in the spring, most likely d90, I don’t want to take a whale, I’m thinking of taking a fast fix. The problem is that for all the Nikon fifty dollars described in your blog, you will have to recalculate the focal length, taking into account the crop factor and the EGF will be 75 mm, which, I think, will not suit me very well .. 35 mm for dx cameras does not quite suit because of it “ shortness ”and less possibility of using it as a portrait .. Is there a way out of this situation? The zooms are not interesting, only high-aperture fixes .. I would like the EGF on the dx camera to be about 50 mm, a good opportunity to control the depth of field, blur the background, nice bokeh .. It's strange why Nikon does not release 50 mm for crop cameras, but still stamp 35 mm ..
I would like the EGF on the dx camera to be about 50 mm - for this 35 1.8, on the crop it will be around 52mm
So in its marking there is already dx .. In this case, the FR is still recounted?
Yes, FR does not depend on DC or FF, but is just a physical parameter. If you put 18-105 on the FF, then there will be real 18-105 only with vignetting.
Clearly, thanks for clarifying this issue.
A man with a propeller wasn’t too lazy to write so many angry words about a modest budget glass and just as instructive for inexperienced owners or those who want to buy! )))
Colleagues, filter everything carefully and remember that your eyesight is the best judge. You yourself will consider your pictures with family and friends, and not send them to exhibitions or carry out instrument examination. If you like the result, then the choice is right. No need to be led on clever terms if your eye does not notice a tangible difference. For the most part, we are all amateurs, advanced and not very, who come here for practical advice, not teachings.))) And most importantly: remember the author's motto - it is important how to shoot!
I have a buddy with expensive audio equipment. When I am at a party, I get tired of the questions - "Here, now, did you hear how it buzzed !!? And what are the lower classes ?! " I always ask him - do you actually hear the music?
Personally, I am pleased with this lens, I have it full-time. It allows you to get a beautiful picture without fuss in the editors or at the minimum. I enjoy watching it even on a 52 inch screen.
The fact that the lens is not in demand in the secondary market and will be a burden is a pure lie. It is very actively bought and sold.
Thanks for the practical thoughts :)
I completely agree with Alexey! Each lens has its own, unique pattern! In my opinion, it gives a soft image, and I love ringing sharpness, so I haven't used it for a long time! But in general the lens is not bad, but in general the quality is a subjective concept and is perceived by each individually differently, so you don't like how he draws - choose one that you like! That's the whole song!
Arkady, good afternoon! Thank you in advance for the painstaking work and attention to everything you touch ... smart and understandable., There are a lot of us “Indians” :)) a lot ... I understand that I got into the wrong Topic (although I am the owner of this ... lens- with whom I am very pleased) I fully support Alexey who wrote the above .. and a friend I have the same one .. a bullet in a bullet .. I would be very grateful to hear from you and whether you have come across this, I still have Nikon 50 f / 1.8D AF in my arsenal. "Tasty" lens, but there is one BUT !! I have been using it for 6 months already, I took it from Ebey, you understand no return, or rather more expensive than you bought, assembly China is what it should have been, New, not the point .. I'm already tired with it , focusing is set at one point, but damn it, I'm really tired, I'm not a Voroshilov shooter .. but out of 10 frames “MUD”… 6-7 .. always !! Tell me what to do !! Thanks in advance !!! Yes, I forgot the most important thing "carcass" Nikon 3100
Smears, since there is no auto focus on the D3100, and this is a lot of marriage. Focusing on Live View with the zoom and photographing on closed apertures can help.
Arkady, I hasten to especially agree with point 5 (… pluses) of 18-105. The lens really has a confident (albeit not super fast) focusing sufficient for a number of reportage shots. 1) 18-105 on the D7000 (I think on other DX-cameras as well) with the SB-900 flash allows for a solid 4 s + to focus and shoot all kinds of dynamic scenes in almost complete darkness (at a reasonable distance - about 4-5 m .). 2) In a round dance of kids around the tree, using 3-D tracking, the lens allows you to highlight and photograph the most sharp one of them. I just had to enter a focus correction in the camera at “-10”, although the lens came with the D7000 in the kit (I thought that in this case everything was coordinated exactly).
Thanks for the information.
Dear Arkady! Explain please, in reviews of this lens in other sources I read that this lens, due to its design features, is very dusty, with all the ensuing consequences. Is this so and how does it affect the picture and the camera with the lens as a whole.
Yes, when zooming, the rear lens works like a pump and draws in air. It doesn’t affect the picture, it adds extra dust to the middle of the camera.
That is, it is not critical and do not bother.
Not worth it. I used this lens for a long time and nothing bad happened from such a feature.
..spasibo za obzor ..
Good day! I bought this lens, but there are suspicions that when it focuses, it creaks a little, is there any point in complaining to the store about this? And so the lens is excellent for both China)
It should creak slightly, if the sound is very strong, then you need to contact the service.
I'm tired of him. Earlier, when I took a 90 in a whale with a carcass, I tried to squeeze out the most decent shots from a technical point of view. Fotal is the same subject on almost all focal lengths in combination with all apertures, spit on most of the reviews on the forums. And yes. He still helps me out, dear. And if I was satisfied with at least ten frames out of a hundred, I give him a solid four. It's just that the task comes down to capturing a cool moment, a plot, and even though it will be shot through the bottom of the bottle, the main thing is a delicious shot. This is how I always set myself up. But at the moment I have become boring and the plot is no longer in the first place in terms of the perception of the frame from this glass. Romanticism has disappeared, there are only dry searches for mistakes in the pictures. The joy of old juicy photos disappeared when I started clicking on him. The conclusion is that one should go through this KIT at least for the sake of having something to start from, with what to compare and choose in the end for yourself the focal range and the degree of aperture, and is it worth chasing more. Here is such a sad observation for a year of its use on a D90 carcass.
PS Thanks to Arkady for an excellent laconic blog. It's strange that I just came across him. I will study from cover to cover and will definitely recommend. And a short question: do the lens and the carcass conflict in the “A” modes simultaneously active?
No, it does not conflict.
Hello Arkady!
I am a beginner amateur. I bought my first DSLR d5100 from 18-105. I didn’t use other devices and lenses before purchase. And I happened to try 5100-18 on d200 - it turned out to be very heavy for such a carcass, although the difference from 18-105 is 140 grams. Considering that the weight of the 18-200 is the same (!) As the d5100 with a battery, the difference turned out to be very significant. It seems to me that for such cameras the 18-200 is very uncomfortable in terms of weight (outweighs). Or am I lacking experience with other zooms?
PS On d5100, instead of 18-105 from inexpensive zooms, what kind of replacement would you recommend? Thanks.
From inexpensive 18-105 can be changed to 16-85. As for the weight - everyone decides for himself. Anyway, thanks for the comment.
Good day. Tell me, is this lens suitable for the Nikon d5100?
Thank you in advance.
Yes, it does.
Hello, please tell me which lens is better to take 18-55 or 18-105 on the one hand 18-55 is cheaper, it has a smaller zoom - probably the picture quality will be better, it is not large, light, not very long - you can use the built-in flash, it is probably more durable, but on the other hand, 18-105 is more versatile, heavier - it allows you to shoot handheld at longer exposures many people say that it is better than 18-55 ... another question is interesting: see the diameter of the front lens at 18-105 is larger , does this mean that more light can enter the matrix through the lens at the same aperture values, say from 18-55 ...
There is still a version that focusing 18-105 uses more energy than 18-55, i.e. using an 18-55 battery lasts longer?
I will be very grateful for your advice and some clarifications!
As for the energy, the difference will not be felt.
The amount of light mainly depends on the aperture value and lens transmittance. The aperture of the lenses is the same, the light output parameter, most likely also completely the same. About the influence of the magnitude of the light filter and aperture is not worth thinking at all. 18-105 is more interesting at least some portrait makings at 105mm.
Arkady, tell me, please, in which case it is impossible to twist the focus ring at all? I have a Nikon D90 with this lens (18-105).
You cannot twist when the switch on the lens is verbally set to A.
Thanks for the answer, and if I’ve already played, what will happen now?
If everything works, that's okay.
Thank you, you are just lovely! So I want to learn as soon as possible, but I'm afraid to break something. Your articles help me a lot to get comfortable with CZK.
I'll be crazy soon! Which is better for a beginner Nikon 5100 18-55 or 18-105?
18-105 better, no need to go crazy.
I take the first D90 DSLR. Advise the lens 18-55 or 18-105 for 18-200 is not enough money. Or maybe the analogue is not Nikor? Already have 50 / 1.8D, friends piled in and presented.
Need advice on Sigma 24-70 2.8 Nikon / manual focus ring scrolls. Broken or doing something wrong? (Nikon D300)
tell me, there is a choice to take a camera with a Nikon D5100 Body + Nikkor 18-105mm interchangeable lens or a camera with a Nikon D5100 Kit 18-55mm VR interchangeable lens
I am new and understand little of this. what's the difference between them, different lenses and that's it? why is it indicated in one body and not in the other? thank you in advance
The craftsmen most likely indicated in the tyrnet store :) 18-105 draws twice as much as 18-55.
Good evening, Arkady! Please tell me, at what exposure parameters and at what focal length 18-105 will produce a sharper, traced portrait with at least not a lot of bokeh? I have a d7000. I shoot with pulsed light. But the soap often skips! Thank you in advance!
ps "I hope I didn't confuse anything with the terms"
Confused with the terms. If the light is pulsed, this implies that the aperture can be closed, and the blurry background effect may be lost. For maximum blurred background, use 105mm F5.6