Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical (this is the full name of this lens, written on its body) is ordinary advanced full-time zoom lens... It comes as a base for some cameras and is often referred to as'whale'(from the English' kit '- kit). Now Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G can be found with almost all Nikon DX cameras elementary and intermediate. It originally came as one of three options for the camera. Nikon D90, own, it was announced along with this camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens suitable exclusively for APS-C DSLR cameras Nikon DX, which means that it is not designed for full frame cameras, but for so-called 'cropped' cameras. The full list of Nikon DX cropped cameras can be viewed here... Install Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on full-frame cameras Nikon fx Not recommended.
Main technical specifications of Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical ∞-0.45m / 1.48ft Ø67 Made in Thailand US36549947 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-105 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-157.5 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 5.83 X (usually rounded to 6) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 105 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 3.5 stops by CIPA standards, 3 stops by Nikon standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 420 g |
| Optical design | 15 elements in 11 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China. |
| Period | From August 27, 2008 to the present day (at least until the summer of 2017) |
| 3D view | View -> |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, view from the bayonet side
Assembly
A copy of this review was made in Thailand. Important: Since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is pleasant and weighty to the touch, weighing just over 400 grams. The lens uses common 67mm color filters.
Please note that the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on the mount side does not have a special rubber gasket, which is an indication that the lens has dust and moisture protection. It is better not to expose the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G to severe moisture and dust tests.
The focus ring is plastic, and the zoom lens is rubberized. Unfortunately, the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has plastic bayonet, for which many photographers dislike it. The plastic mount is the first sign that the user is facing a lens from the simplest Nikon Nikkor line of lenses. For example, among the universal Nikon DX lenses, only the simplest kit lenses of the class have a plastic mount. 18-55/3.5-5.6 and another not very successful Nikon 18-135 / 3.5-5.6G.
The retractable lens barrel consists of two sections, to the touch they are quite durable, without any backlash.
With frequent use, the lens may begin to suffer from spontaneous lengthening of the frame (trunk of the lens) under its own weight.
There is a bayonet mount mark and a mark on the case for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses an HB-32 plastic lens hood, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The lens hood comes with the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the zoom ring is partially lost. Exactly the same lens hood Nikon 18-70, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-140.
When changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens body like a pump - it draws in and pushes out air. This behavior of the rear lens is called 'vacuum cleaner effect', which can increase the amount of dust that accumulates in the camera. You can clearly see the effect of a vacuum cleaner with a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens here.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G comes with a CL-1018 soft case, and the lens itself comes in a small cardboard box with a characteristic Nikon coloring.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, rear information part
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 105 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.3
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, maximum length
Stabilizer
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has a second generation 'Nikon VR' image stabilizer that can compensate for 3.5 stops by shutter speed. In values excerpts this means that you can shoot at shutter speeds 10-12 times longer than what the lens without a stabilizer requires.
The manual for the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens says 3 stops (measured by Nikon), and the official website 3.5 feet (measured by CIPA). In any case, the stabilizer works well.
To enable / disable the stabilizer on the lens there 'VR ON / OFF' button. The stabilizer itself works well. I was able to take pictures without grease and hard work at 105 mm focal length and 1/30 second. Unlike more advanced lenses, such as Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical, this lens does not have the ability to switch stabilizer modes.
While the image stabilizer is turned on and off, the viewfinder may twitch slightly, this is the norm and should not be afraid. The stabilizer is turned on by pressing the focus activation button.
The lens can track the movement of the camera during panorama shooting. In this case, the stabilizer will suppress vibration only in the direction perpendicular to the movement of the camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with the most extended frame of the case and the established hood
Focusing
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D90, D200 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 5 magnification... Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with hood in transport mode
Image quality
The lens is sharp enough in the center of the frame, even on open apertures. Sharpness sags a little at 105 mm. Unfortunately, the corners and edges of the image on open apertures remain very weak. The lens also suffers from chromatic aberration and vignetting. Modern cameras can automatically correct vignetting and chromatic aberration.
Of course, at 18 mm you can see barrel-shaped distortion, which becomes pads like with an increase in focal length. The level of dystoria is at an adequate level for comfortable perception of the image.
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G well tolerates side and back light and shows good contrast, which is typical of modern universal lenses. In general, I did not find anything particularly bad or good in the quality of the image obtained with the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical
Examples of photos on Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
UPDATED
More examples on Nikon D5600:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Examples on Nikon D7200:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical prices
Actual lens prices can see here, or in the price block below:
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My experience
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical was my first universal lens for my first two cameras Nikon D40 и Nikon D90. I used it a little over a year, after which I changed it to Tamron 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF). Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is nothing more than an ordinary whale lens with a slightly expanded focal length, which allows you to use part of the tele-range.
For a month, I was simultaneously holding Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical, which allowed me to compare their capabilities. As a result, it turned out that using a range of focal lengths of 18-105 is several times more convenient than using 18-55. The ability to use 105 mm of focal length on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is one of the lens's greatest strengths. Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G also has a more pleasant / solid appearance and it is much more convenient to handle it than with 18-55.
This lens is not a bit suitable as a regular lens for some more or less serious shootings (wedding, responsible reporting, etc.). I took off 4 wedding on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and now I regret it. In the same time Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G fits very well for simple tasks. He repeatedly helped me out on hikes, on vacation, for homely leisurely filming. Like it or not, but finding a more balanced lens than the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is very difficult.
From cheap universal lenses for Nikon DX cameras, I advise you to look at the options Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. True, these lenses can only be found in use on the secondary market. A good replacement for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G are Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
The most similar lens from a third-party manufacturer is Sigma Zoom 18-125mm 1: 3.8-5.6 DC OS HSM (Optical Stabilizer).
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Thank you the store www.fotika.com.ua behind provided by Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens, which I took for a while to create photos with its appearance.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm on camera Nikon D40x
Results
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens performed quite well as universal lens for amateur photographers. On vacation, he is simply indispensable. Unfortunately, one should not expect high optical performance from such a lens. In general, the lens is good for its price class.
I recommend it as the very first lens for Nikon DX cameras. It is best to buy a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G kit (together with the camera), in which case the cost of the camera and lens will be lower than their total cost separately. Using Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is much more convenient than class lenses. 18-55/3.5-5.6 due to the wider range of focal lengths.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
“Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focusing ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, this feature is only a pathetic semblance of a full-fledged M / AM mode with the ability to continuously manually control focus.
This works with all Nikon lenses. The AM switch cuts off the power to the motor control board. In AF-S mode, after successfully focusing with the half-pressed shutter button, the power from the motor is also removed.
try turning the focus 18-55 manually, change your mind
The power may turn off, but this instruction is only allowed for some lenses. And also, unlike full-fledged M / A, the autofocus does not turn off during rotation of the focus ring.
Bad another. With this lens, the focus ring is located near the bayonet mount and with a normal grip, you can accidentally hold this ring, which leads to the failure of the focus motor or control board.
and with a normal grip, you can accidentally hold this ring
—
it does not spin when focusing. Have you ever seen this lens?
My motor is dead. I ordered it on Ali, I will change it, I will deal with the gear mechanism. Maybe that's why he died ...
Did you fix autofocus in 18-105?
Yes. I fixed it. Indeed, the ring does not rotate with auto focus.
I wonder if it is possible to change it to metal on lenses with a plastic lens mount. Can the Chinese do this?
Which DX-lens in image quality will be better than 18-70, 16-85, 18-105, 18-140, or 18-200? Which one could be taken for a wedding?)
Which full-format lens can be recommended on the D40 as the only one with the best price / quality ratio?
1. 16-85 2. Tamron 28-75 / 2,8 (A09) with a motor.
Tell me, please, does he shoot well in the dark?
Bad, like all the like
That something like this.
Gorgeous frame! Are there other similar ones from the same lens? I would like to know what was the aperture value, shutter speed, ISO, used carcass. Thank you.
1. Thanks to Arkady for the site and the answers. In general, thank you all for the answers and advice.
2. I have this lens + Nikon 3100. This is the first CZK, I'm learning. The pictures are not sharp, with the sky and earth presented in the review. I pressed the diaphragm, it becomes a little better. What can be done? Is it possible that such a lens? Autofocus seems to get. With manual I tried, I smear, my vision fails.
18-105 is actually a good lens, optically better than 18-55VR (IMHO). On covered and with a suitable exposure, it should be fine (you probably have at least half of the control and sharpness in piccha). It would be better to check the accuracy of focus on an inclined target, although it is difficult to see the boundaries of the depth of field in the dark ones. Take pictures for comparison via live view, there is no front-back. Yes, and photo processing (contrast, saturation, sharpness) is half of a high-quality image.
Thanks, I’ll try both live and I will find the target, so far only in jpeg. Not matured before processing, with a camera to figure it out)))
Thanks again, after the live view, the camera woke up and the sharpness got better. + added sharpness in piccha control, it got even better
I am glad to help. So after live view, “the camera woke up” or during? I'm all about focus accuracy through JVI. And do not be afraid to process, at least through the accessible and simple ViewNX - correct the horizon, brightness, light in the shadows, etc.
During live view on f11-13. Later, through the video finder at 18 and 105 f11-13, the norms became. I’ll deal with the focus on the target a bit later
You tighten the diaphragm, of course, not weakly, with such a depth of field (if you don't know what it is, check out) is large. This is not a target, if you zoom in, you can see that the depth of field is about 100mm, when focusing at around 500, the focus hit approx. at 450 - alas, a small back. https://ibb.co/zJYqVYQ
I read about the FLIP here, I’ll shoot slowly on smaller f.f11- for landscapes, so that’s the norm. But now the pipe for 2-3 km can be seen in detail. Guided by it. On the target, everything like that lies at work, waiting tomorrow)
A lot for 7000 f11. Experiment. F8 for him. limit
D3100, experimenting slowly. Some kind of understanding of the relationships comes already
Recently brought such a broken AF. The service asked for a price comparable to buying a used lens. Dismantled, removed the motor, washed in alcohol, it worked. But the drop-out trunk could not be defeated. Can anyone share a secret or leave it and reconcile?
I only know the collective farm method - an elastic band on the focal ring. And in a clever way there like (?) The guide bushings need to be changed.
Bushings are unlikely. With their development there would be a backlash of the trunk. Judging by the service manual, there are silicone friction inserts. But I do not want to disassemble the optics. I'm afraid the adjustments after my manipulations will fail.
But about the gum can be more?
Can. On top of the zoom ring, an elastic band is hung in contact with it and with the body. Or an elastic band under the ring (between it and the body). About guides, I did not put it right. There, along the slot of the trunk, there are soldier bushes, which make the trunk lengthen. It’s like there are friction clutches there.
OK. Thanks. I will try.
Thanks for the tip. I just used not an elastic band, but glued with a tight fit a narrow adhesive tape under the zoom rubber band. It worked without a deterioration in appearance.
I bought it from my hands a long time ago, still of Thai production, with an elastic band stretched out from fat. It turned out to be very sharp. I have already gone through both the replacement of the focusing motor and the 18-55 donor mount. I want something new, but I think it's worth it? The only thing is that I can change to 16-85. Of course, there are many more “cool” lenses, but are they needed “in the zoo”? Pros - yes, for amateurs - I don't think show-off like a kenguryatnik and snorkel on a city SUV.
Please tell me, what filter is better to use for it?
There is no answer to such a question. A filter for tasks is taken to obtain an effect. And the diameter of the filter for this lens is 67mm
ultraviolet should be permanently protected - highly recommend. I have a Hoya with a diameter of 67 mm. On request, you can buy a polarik. I have a noua HD, I'm satisfied.
http://evtifeev.com/svetofiltryi-hoya
You can still read a lot if you dig around.
How can you diagnose VR malfunction of this lens? Today I tried to buy a subject with a D5100 carcass in the load and could not confidently determine that the stub was working. If in my 55-300 VR the operation of the stabilizer can be confidently seen in the viewfinder, then here it is not ... There is no characteristic noise when the shutter button is half pressed. The purchase did not take place. And now I think, maybe I'm wrong and the stabilization system somehow works differently for the D5100 + 18-105VR? ...
take a picture with a deliberately long exposure with a stub and without and compare) the universal method)
I also bought used D5100 from 18-105, I did not understand whether it was normal or not, the stub was barely working (malfunction or normal?)
even at 18-55VR seemed more efficient
on the long end, the work of the stub is quite noticeable. But, for example, on 70-300 4.5-5.6G the work of the stub is more noticeable
there is a simple test and few people know about it even not in all SCs ... push the fr to the full, that is, in this case, to 105 in lifeview mode, zoom in, then put your ear in the lens and turn on turn off the stub ...
because it is a very indirect method ...
and what or who prevents you from seeing the work of the stub with your eyes? I have shown this to my students more than once, the 24-105 4.0L lens mounted on a 5D MkII, turn on LV, enlarge the picture as much as possible, set the FR 105 mm and watch. when the stabilizer is off, the picture “jumps” on the display from hand tremors. turn on the stub and see that the picture has stopped shaking, and when the camera is smoothly moving up and down, a slight delay is visible, associated with the stabilization of this movement. much clearer :)
I compared the work of the D5100 + 18-105VR stub with my D7000 + 55-300VR. So on my device I see the stub work right in the viewfinder. And at any focal point. And at 5100 - no. And there was no characteristic buzzing from the lens when the shutter was half pressed (again, like on my 55-300). Therefore, I asked if the work of the stub on this bundle (5100 18-105) was different from my usual algorithm. As far as I know, the 18-105 stub is the same version as the 55-300. If not fundamentally different, then the stub in this lens is faulty. So far I have stopped at this.
Hello Arkady!
I live in Lithuania, in a small village and use Nikon D90.
I constantly read your comments. They are very objective and intelligible.
Thank you.
Hello! I can’t understand about the focal length, this lens is suitable only for cropped cameras, and if we put it on a ff camera, there will be screwing and the like. BUT the calculation of the focal length is vsevorno considered as a ff camera, why? Is the focal length adapted to the cropped matrix, immediately broadcast?
No. FR is a physical quantity not related to the size of the matrix. EGF is used for convenience - which focal length corresponds to the full frame in terms of the angle of view.
https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/learn_explore/nikkor_lens_simulator.page
Focal length is a simplified lens angle. Obviously, it directly depends on the size of the matrix.
Example: put a 35mm full frame lens on crop 1.5 get a focal length of 35 * 1.5 = 52.5mm
For convenience, the size of the matrix of the full frame is taken as the reference scale, this is the focal length indicated on the lenses.
To get the real focal length, this value must be multiplied by the matrix size coefficient, how many times the matrix differs from the matrix size of the full frame.
Those. coefficient for full frame = 1
Coeff for Nikon dx = 1.5
Coeff for mikra = 2
Coeff for Kenon ef- s = 1.6
Ratio for cameras with inch matrices = 2.7
If the matrix is larger than the matrix of the full frame, then the conversion coefficient will be less than 1.
What does the FR and the matrix size have to do with it? https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A4%D0%BE%D0%BA%D1%83%D1%81%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%81%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%8F%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5 The focal length does not depend on anything except the lens itself.
Moreover.
Do you trust Nikon? Link above.
According to your link, the information point is unchanged, but in fact it = the size of the matrix.
So see?
Even easier, take a full 35mm frame lens and a 1.5mm crop lens. Take pictures at full frame and crop respectively - focal points will NOT match, they will differ by the difference in the matrix.
The second test is a 50mm full frame shot and a 35mm crop lens. Focal points in the pictures will match. I hope it's clear now?
After such advisers, people get confused. Someone honors these and carries on nonsense. Where does Nikon indicate varying focal lengths? There simulator ANGLE OF REVIEW on different matrices, and no more !!! Learn the theory, not invent it in your own way!
Vitaliy N, you still need to understand the articles, read carefully the constant or variable magnitude of the information plane, angle of information and angle of view at your link.
Precisely because focal lengths depend on the size of the matrix, it is easier to get a telephoto zoom and a wider angle to smaller matrices.
On small matrices, x80 zoom is a common occurrence.
Read https://radojuva.com/2012/10/lens-mm/. You don’t even have to go far.
Vitaly, do you really understand what you post? The angle of view is the focal length. See the link to Nikon, where the focal length in mm is converted into degrees of angle of view. Exactly the same in Arcadia.
The angle of view changes - the focal angle changes because the convergence plane of the rays changes, see your wiki article
And finally, do the simplest tests above, just to understand that 50mm at full frame and 35mm at crop 1.5 will have the same focal length)
And again I catch you on selective reading. Literally what Arkady wrote: "Attention: the focal length of the lens is the physical quantity of the lens itself, it does not change and does not depend on the type of camera on which the lens is used." But someone all the same reads only what he likes.
I look at the book - I see a fig.
That's right.
https://tenor.com/view/oh-god-ugh-facepalm-smh-gif-10906928
Vitaly, as soon as you read YOUR same article from the wiki, you will immediately understand what the focal length and its relationship with the angle of information, the angle of view of the lens and the plane of information (matrix) are.
For practitioners who are not interested in the theorists' fantasies, we do the simplest test or find the Podakuni-Martynov test (Ambassador Fuji), which clearly shows that 35mm at 1.5 crop is 50mm at full frame.
Well, or look at the link to the Nikon website, where the simulator clearly shows that focal lengths are the angle of view and how they depend on the size of the matrix.
There is no place for fantasy, just check the facts with simple tests.
You could not read and understand the first line of the link, not to mention the whole article. Focal length determines the angle of view, and not the angle of view determines the focal length. You and Yuri confuse the equivalent focal length with the physical one indicated on the lens. Well, lenses cannot change when the lens is mounted on another camera. I can still break your brains, but it doesn’t work out due to certain missing factors. In one system, for example, Nikon, the planes of the FF and crop completely coincide. If you understand.
Vitaly, do you understand what equality is? It's like that on the forehead, that on the forehead.
Focal length = angle of view of the lens. At least from left to right, at least from right to left. Further. The convergence plane is the ENTIRE plane, not one point! The frame is formed on an area with edges, and the matrices have different areas, how)
Therefore, to accommodate a 50mm focal full frame, ALL the image on the crop will have to take a 35mm lens, because the matrix is smaller.
Clearly: https://fujifilmru.livejournal.com/17230.html
The convergence plane of the rays is the area of the frame = the size of the matrix.
The full frame and crop they are different.
I hope so, okay?
Your theory would make sense if instead of a plane there was a point, then yes, there would be no recounting, but there would also be no change in the angle of view)
Something like this)
I so want to see your and Yuri's faces, when someone from the photographers and Arkady writes that you are wrong ... And by the way, the plane has no size, this is a geometric concept studied at school.
Vitaly N, I have nothing to add to you.
Frame size is a section of a plane that has dimensions = matrix.
Or call it a flattening plane, because the lens should focus from edge to edge of this same flattening plane.
I don’t know what you were taught at school, but the plane of convergence of the rays of the lens has quite specific dimensions, do not confuse with the abstract plane))
In practice, the link above is from both Nikon and Martynov, it is clearly shown that the focal lengths vary depending on the size of the matrix, although anyone can do a primitive test of 50mm on a full frame = 35mm on crop 1.5.
As soon as Vitaly shows that this is not so, it will make sense to discuss his fantasies and sofa theories)
Thanks to Vitaly for trying to convey the correct concepts to the masses and he has the patience to explain them in a calm tone, unlike his opponents.
PS By all indications (disguising as someone else’s nickname, rudeness, ignoring the opinions of others), we are dealing with the same dirty anonymous
https://radojuva.com/2013/11/camera-canon-best-buy/comment-page-9/#comment-271476
disguised as Pakeman today.
The fact that there is no registration gives such malware the opportunity to spoil the atmosphere on the site with impunity, unfortunately.
Lenses only for crop can not always and not in all systems be physically set to full frame.
But in any case, the angle of view of the type lens is indicated there if it is set to full frame.
To get the real focal length, these numbers must be multiplied by the conversion factor - by the crop factor (matrix size).
Kolya, everything is simple. Put your lens on ff, get the focal ones that are written on them. Put on nikon dx, you get what is written multiplied by 1.5.
A link to the Nikon simulator has already been given to you.
Do not bother with the theory, all you need to know is that you need to multiply your focus on crop by your crop factor of your camera.
Opus dreamers such as Vitalik, VV and others with links to complex wiki formulas can safely go to the furnace, they themselves do not understand those formulas and what is written there.
Another one does not understand the difference between FR and EGF ... The angle of view changes, but not the focal length. We are waiting for Arcadia ...
So tell the difference between the focal length and the viewing angle.
I just have a Nikon crop and a full frame, it’s interesting to listen, I already bought pop corn.
Immediately the question that was exaggerated, I’m getting on the 50mm ff the same frame as 35mm on the crop. Am I doing something wrong? Share, that's really interesting.
Everything is correct. But the FR as it was 35 will remain so. And what you call FR is Equivalent Focal Length, because the angle of view on the crop is reduced and only that. The analogue of the focal length is the diopter of the glasses. She doesn't change when another person puts them on.
https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/basics/19/01.htm
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTH33Kr1FJvz18fnswqX2ssTxCv38Pw3zDDdTmtZZ8VmFu1hX22iA
Call it what you want.
Everything is simple in practice, if you want a 50mm analog ff on a crop, put it on a 35mm crop.
Changed the size of the sensor, changed the angle of view, changed the focal length.
Delusional games in terminology are not interesting to me.
Vitaliy argues that the focal length is NOT related to the angle of view of the lens, and therefore the focal length will NOT change when the angle of view changes, which happens when a different size is installed on the matrix.
This completely contradicts both practice and what is indicated on the Nikon website.
But for the rest, a completely respected opinion is useless in practice.
I have never said that. You claim focal length = viewing angle. This is not true. Simplified Viewing Angle = Focal_Distance * Diagonal_Matrix. But you cannot understand this in any way. And what happens when the matrix size changes does not affect the focal length, only the viewing angle.
“I never said that” should be understood as “Focal remains unchanged, only the angle changes when the matrix is resized”. I got confused already with these Pakemen-Misha-Yura, who are already getting confused in their testimony.
ps By the way, the correction, the dependence of UO on FR is the opposite. Well, this is only for those who understand.
A person simply does not understand, it happens.
Lens angle = focal length.
So more clearly.
Damn, I don’t understand why people who don’t understand what they are writing, and not understanding the essence of the issue, are trying to teach others?
And then newcomers, having read such pseudo-gurus, confusedly ask stupid questions ...
It’s a pity that Arkady is sometimes too tolerant, otherwise he would cut such branches that carry incorrect information
Can you indicate who you think the pseudo-guru is?
Pakeman stubbornly denies the existence of a difference between the RF and EGF, believing that it is the same, invents non-existent terms, and tries to derive the formula 2 × 2 = 5
* considering them the same
But all the same it will not reach him, because he did not study at school. I also agree that such opuses should be deleted so as not to powder the brain of beginners. FR, EGF, the effect of aperture - the first thing to understand when photographing. Basic principles, not knowing which is very difficult later.
+1. God saw you tried ... :)
Vitaly N, are you able to write something other than flooding?
Either you do not understand the difference between the information plane and the plane, then your lens focuses endlessly, then the angle of view is not connected with the focal ones.
Are you able to take a 35mm frame on a 1.5 crop camera and 50mm on a full frame? So show that the frame has changed (focal).
Martynov showed poorly?
For those simple questions, you flood about your school and troll, is that all you can do?
I repeat. We are waiting for Arcadia. Will you believe him or will you remain with your opinion? Let him judge.
Well, let's put 35 on the crop - "fifty dollars" ... in the editor we cut off more - we got 85. etc. - The beauty!
It's cool, the focal point can be changed simply in the editor. Bach, you already have 300 instead of 35. And do not care what is written on it :)
Well, in a way, you can change the crop factor in the editor :)
Well, in the editors this is called crop. But the focal point does not change from this, just like it does not change when cropping the focused image with a crop matrix.
O Gods also began to distort my nickname.
I still hope that Arkady will introduce mandatory registration on the site.
Adults like people, but they’re engaged in such garbage ..
The locals, I hope, realized that you can’t write such nonsense :)
Guys, thanks, I understood everything after they threw off the lens simulator. After your discussion, I realized one more thing, and especially googled the DX value on the lens. In general, the result of your discussion:
1. The values that are indicated on this lens are the FR values in the full frame.
2. The DX lens will take the same picture at full frame and crop, as the full frame goes into crop factor mode (DX mode)
3. Yes, in the article Arkady pointed out the values of this EFR lens 27-157 and this was of most interest to me.
4. And yes, the viewing angle is shown on the Nikon website, which makes it possible to understand all the higher words that this lens will behave identically in crop and in full frame, but if you take a similar lens, well with similar values, for FX cameras, then the pictures will be different on full-frame stone and crop.
I think I expressed myself clearly)
Thanks again, helped)
Everything is correct, except for item 1. The focal length has nothing to do with the full frame, it is a physical quantity. EGF was invented in order to understand how lenses behave in comparison with the full frame, as the most popular. And the systems we use were originally designed in the last century for it. But the owners of the medium format wanted to spit on all sorts of EGF in comparison with some kind of narrow-film format (full frame). For them, the mentioned 35 and 50 mm are widths, normal ones start from 80 and above, portrait ones can be 300.
ps Not to Kolya. Maybe Anonymous called some mattresses. For some, a full frame like that pen Erich Krause from a Kharlamov parody https://rutube.ru/video/12777d7dfa6cee8a9d5bfdeb06db1043/
"Lens angle of view = focal length." What is it like? 35mm-63 °, 50-45 °, 28-75 °, etc.
No) The angle of view depends on the magnitude of the plane of convergence of the rays and the FR. FR affects the angle of view, but this is a constant for a particular lens, as well as the size of the plane of information of the rays (matrix) is a constant for a particular camera. And the man mixed everything up and distorted)
“” The size of the convergence plane (matrix) is a constant for a specific camera ”” - when changing the size of the convergence plane, it is no longer a constant but a variable, and has a different meaning, so understand you?
So. When you change the size of the fotik matrix (fotik), the angle of view changes. When you change the FR (lens) the angle of view changes. Below is a good commentary from anonymous digital zoom - very good. intelligibly
the angle in degrees forms the plane of convergence of the rays, i.e. matrix. geometry, high school course.
for nikon it looks like this:
https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/learn_explore/nikkor_lens_simulator.page
clearly the direct relationship between the focal lengths, the size of the matrix and the angle of view. three variables, one changes, everything changes.
Arkady, please read yesterday's “dialogue” on the subject of FR changes when installed on a camera with a different matrix size or not, and write who is right. Remove incorrect postulates so that newbies do not clog their brains. Thanks.
EGF and FR are common and one of the most common questions on any forum or blog. Everything is very simple.
For cropped cameras, EGFs must always be recounted, under any circumstances and with any lens. With no exceptions. This is a simple and easy rule.
On full-frame cameras in full-frame mode (just when the whole sensor is working), you don’t need to recount, never, even if it uses a lens designed for crop.
The numbers indicated on the lens carry a physical value and do not reflect the type and coefficient of crop of a particular camera. Those. The numbers that are responsible for the focal ones do not tell us in any way for which camera to use this lens. And on the full frame, this will be the very treasured FR, it is also the EGF.
EGFs are simply used by photographers for convenience. It is much easier for a photographer to remember and understand the viewing angles based on focal lengths than to remember the degrees of viewing angles themselves.
Usually, sooner or later, users master these basics.
More info on this topic here, here и here
Arkady, specify - is the focal length the angle of view of the lens?
And does the angle of view of the lens change when changing the size of the matrix?
Focal length is the focal length, a physical parameter. The viewing angle changes in the viewfinder, yes, it is customary to say that the angles on different cameras with different crop factors are different.
Here is information on this topic. https://radojuva.com/2014/01/calculon/
Arkady, can you answer two questions to clarify the situation?
1. FF 24mp, 50mm lens and double crop (for convenience) 24mp, 25mm. Will the pictures be identical in cropping and resolution, all other things being equal?
2. FF 24mp, 50mm / 4, and twice crop 24mp, 25mm / 2. Will the pictures be completely identical, other things being equal?
Thank you.
In both cases, they will be very similar. Identical is a too futile term for this comparison. I would pick the word - equivalent.
1. For cropping - yes, for resolution - you need to look from specific lens models and others.
2. They will not be completely identical (different ADCs after all), but they will be similar in cropping and flu
Try to master this article, there you will see many nuances https://radojuva.com/2016/04/aps-c-bokeh-again/
Yes, I kind of mastered))).
I’ve been working with drains for several years now.
The viewing angle does not change in the viewfinder but on the matrix.
The focal length is directly related to the reduction of the rays of the lens to a specific area.
But if A = B, B = C then A = C.
Those. change the area or angle of view - change the focal point. What is brilliantly shown in Nikon's simulator has already been quoted here.
All three parameters: area (matrix, size), viewing angle and focal length are completely interconnected. You change one of three, everything changes.
Examples above - the frames will be identical (color, ADC and other are irrelevant in this case) despite different focal lengths (25mm vs 50mm).
That is why, one of the reasons who are tired of the weight of 2kg-5kg, switch to mikra, which is not cheaper but brings relief.
and?
Given: In the hole there is a 5cm diameter hole, next to a hole is 5mm diameter.
If you look into a small hole, the viewing angle will be significantly reduced compared to a larger hole
Question: Does the focal eye change? Are objects visible in a small hole approaching?
Putting 50mm on the crop - there will be one angle of view,
Putting 50mm on ff - W.O. will be wider
Sliding 50mm on Medium Format - W.O. there will be even more!
In which of the options to put an equal sign between the focal and the viewing angle?
Therefore, if we discard verbal husk and terminology, all you need to know in practice is the real viewing angle of the lens and flu. Then make sure that 25mm per crop 2, 35mm per crop 1.5 are interchangeable with 50mm ff. And choose the right system for the rest of the requirements.
Yeah, and if you still remember about the depth of field, then in order to get an identical picture on your substitute double-crop, let's say the banal 85 / 1,4 lens needs 42 / 0,7.
And instead of 50 / 1,2 you need 25 / 0,6
Good luck with that, as the French say))
Again trolls ... not tired of juggling? Troll?
Well, firstly, crop 2.0 is not mine. No need to fantasize.
Secondly, I indicated three focal options, if you bother to read, for crop 2, crop 1.5 and ff. Did you read at all?
Thirdly, I indicated the option for the equivalent flu, also did not read?
Fourth, focal and their dependence on the size of the matrix and the viewing angle rather than the flu were discussed, although I indicated the flu.
Fifth, how many people here on the forum are shooting in ff at 1.2 or 2.0? How many cases do you need 3cm flu?
There is no perfect system. All formats and systems are just tools, a compromise between size, price, weight and ergonomics. Often these tools are interchangeable, often not.
25mm / 2 crop 2 is equivalent to 35mm / 2.8 crop 1.5 and is equivalent to 50mm / 4 ff in framing and grip. Pick up the same MP - it will be in the size of the frame.
Do not make something abstruse and incomprehensible from focus and formats)
For the sake of interest, I looked at what is on mikra.
Voigtlander Nokton 42.5mm f / 0.95 price $ 800 This is type 85mm 1.9 ff.
Or 42.5 2.4, 3.6 for 350 dollars, different options. We look further.
On mic, max resolution is immediately on open. On ff lenses, the maximum resolution is 5.6, and 1.8 is a creepy soap. And the flu on ff 1.8 is very small. As a result, we actually work with ff from 2.0 -2.8, which is completely replaced by micro 42.5 1.2 or 0.95.
However, you want to troll, it makes no difference to me.
It is so difficult for an anonymous person to introduce himself at least somehow, so that we know how many people are talking to ...
They are anonymous. One has only to guess, with the same you are talking or already with another. Yesterday I again had the desire to no longer discuss with impersonality.
We forgot to take into account the size of the sensor, which determines how much light we receive in total on the matrix (the “aperture” of the lens determines how much light falls on a square millimeter of the matrix in time units, but how many of these square millimeters in the matrix depends on its physical size).
Those. in your examples, a picture with twice a crop will be noisier (less light in total) than FF (more light in total), although it will be similar in cropping and in the depth of field (we take the shutter speed and ISO equal in your test).
Here is a great article with visuals
https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care/4
The lens forms an image on a plane according to its focal length, and then a rectangle is cut (cropped) from this image depending on the size of the camera matrix. Those. FF will cut a piece 36x24, crop - 23x15 (Canon, Nikon has a little more), soap dish - even less. But since then all this is printed in the same size, visually it turns out that the crop "zoom in" the image the more, the smaller their physical matrix size. Something like that, on the fingers.
This is essentially digital zoom obtained. Therefore, it seems to me that crop is more critical to the quality of glass than ff.
Not really, but the effect is the same.
I always talk about it)
This is digital zoom.
Let's complicate the task. On a x2 crop (for clarity), a 22MP matrix, a 300mm lens, on a full frame 22MP, a 600mm lens. The question is - will the pictures differ in detail, given good light?
If we take the resolution of the lenses equal, then yes. The larger the pixel, the better.
But this is still not digital zoom, although there are similarities. Because the image from the crop will be sharper than digital zoom with a larger matrix.
Physically, it is digital zoom that works. If you make the matrix twice as large, and then crop the image from it twice. That will come out then)
This is digital zoom. Of course with crop no place will be sharper.
The simplest test. Nikon d800, ff mode 36mp, ff 50mm, crop in Photoshop in the center to 16mp. We make on nikon d7000 or d5100 on 35mm. We make a 800mm lens on the d35. All three pictures are the same in resolution and cropping.
Famously you change the conditions. The conversation was about the same megapixel initially. And you give an example with approximately the same pixel size. Digital zoom means reducing the magnification by the square of the magnification. Let's be honest - 24 Mp FF and 24 Mp 1,5 crop with lenses with the same FR. We bring the viewing angle on the FF to the crop and we get ... 10,7 MP. And where is it sharper?
* decrease in resolution squared magnification
Digital zoom is the crop of the frame and its subsequent interpolation if necessary. Those. digital zoom always reduces the number of source pixels.
In the example above, all three images will be identical in cropping and resolution, no matter who crops the frame - a smaller matrix, lens, Photoshop or crop mode in ff.
And a 35mm crop lens 1.5 = 50mm ff lens.
Another experiment is much more useful, if you take the same glass on the FF and on the crop, in order to get the same frame (cropping) on the crop, you need to move a distance one and a half times more than on the FF. As a result of the light reflected from the object, the crop will fall 2.25 times less than the FF (proportional to the square of the distance to the object) with all the ensuing consequences.
The linear dimensions of the object are reduced in proportion to the distance, so that the illumination of the object remains the same. The difference will only be in bokeh due to different depth of field (more on crop).
Those. the object became farther and smaller (on the crop), and the illumination remained the same ???
Well, in your case, yes)) But the conversation began with the condition of 22 Mp both on the crop and on the FF. And having made a crop 2 with FF with 22 MP, we get only 5,5 MP ...
Crop is more like not a digital zoom, but rather like using macro rings - the image is stretched, the resolution is reduced, there is less light coming in ...
Crop is more like a tele-converter without a drop in aperture (but with an increase in the depth of field). Digital zoom - an increase in the available picture. There, the image quality is guaranteed to drop, because we finish the new pixels by interpolating the existing ones. When cropping, it all depends on the quality of the lens. If the resolution of the lens is high, then the deterioration will be negligible, since the resolution of the generated image is greater than or comparable with the resolution of the matrix. If the resolution of the lens is low, then the crop matrix, densely packed with pixels, will lose its pixels and the image will lose sharpness.
Macro rings are another story altogether. Macro rings allow the lens to focus closer. And there’s less light, because with the same size of the relative aperture, you increase the focal length, moving the lens block away from the matrix.
With a teleconverter, of course more precisely, I meant the rings without taking into account the decrease in the DF. But macro rings not only allow you to focus closer, they enlarge the picture at the same focus distance. The working segment is changed, and with it the size of the projected image.
Let's complicate the conditions. At what distance do we shoot the object? What aperture? If the object is not at infinity and the resolution of the crop lens is twice as high, and the diffraction threshold is not exceeded, then the pictures will not differ. If at least one condition is not met, there will be differences
I've sprinkled it ... with what it is :). after all, no, digital zoom does not occur, since the final image is viewed / printed using pixels, and this is a different counting system than matrix millimeters.
Well, here we have already dialedged ... I also write that it only looks like it. The number of pixels does not decrease.
Good afternoon. I used this lens in conjunction with D300s for a long time. Recently I decided to find a replacement for my 18-105. As a staff, I bought a fix 28 / 2.8d. I didn't like the fix - sharpness is only in the foreground, middle and far without details, there is not enough contrast. I decided to try 18-105 again, and you know, I liked it more than the fix - contrast immediately appeared, the colors were more juicy. Maybe it is not suitable for a wedding, although I filmed a couple of weddings with it, but for events such as a corporate party, birthday, baptism, it is quite suitable (in a church with a flash, if allowed). Yes, dark, plastic, but it pays off every ruble spent. I wanted to sell, but changed my mind.
Thanks for the experience. I also looked at 20, 24, 28 / 2,8 (full frame), a simple hard worker 18-105 is also cute, but when I took Tamron 28-75 / 2,8 and put it on crops - 5100, d200, he seemed more interesting (sharpness, pattern, even color). I don’t know (didn’t have) crop-zooms 17-50 / 2,8, also how do they show tamron?
Now the price for 18-105 and 18-140 varies two (!) Times (for used options), tell me, is it worth it to overpay for 18-140? I want a station wagon on the D5100 for travel, with the ability to shoot some portrait on the long end.
You can get by and 18-105, for travel 18-105 is enough.
I read the entire branch of verbal battles between Pokemon and Vitaly N. So, Vitaly N, is completely right.
This is just how much you need to be stubborn to argue so fiercely that the focal length of the lens is variable.
The fact that you get the same viewing angle when shooting on 35mm lenses at 1,5-crop and 50mm at full frame does not mean that the 35mm lens suddenly began to have a 50mm focus on the crop, it only has the ANGLE of VIEW on the crop, like 50mm in full frame, and nothing more. Geometrically, these lenses give two different pictures. Try the same experiment on the same mic.
For those who are in a deaf tank, I attach a picture to the commentary that clearly shows what the focal point is, what is the viewing angle and the difference in image geometry on lenses with DIFFERENT focal lengths at the SAME viewing angle.
If after that it is not clear to someone here that the focal length is a physical value, and it does not change, even if you screw the lens onto your forehead, then there is only a way to a psychiatrist :))
Here's another example - the focal lengths of the lenses are different, the angle of view (read - EGF) is the same.
Now you understand the difference in focal lengths of lenses and angle of view (read - cropped image)?
So a 28mm lens will NEVER become a 50mm lens wherever you put it. The viewing angle - yes - you can achieve like a fifty-kopeck piece by placing it (28mm lens), for example, on a crop-Canon.
And the 35mm lens on the crop Nikon will NEVER also become a fifty dollars, but will only have a viewing angle like a fifty dollars set to full frame.
Something like this :)
I hope there will be no more debate about this, at least in this thread.
Pokemon did not participate in the battle, there was some kind of Pakemon.
they offer this, but with a torn off mount ... ..And there are parts for 18-55, it is mono to take parts for 18-105 from it?
The Chinese sell zapchpst - a plastic bayonet, write that 18-55 and 18-105 are the same
The bayonet ring fits, I rearranged it myself. For the future - the autofocus motor too, but in one through the connector, in the other it is soldered.
This refers to the first 2 models 18-55 without a button.
that's what is broken… .can be rearranged from 18-55?
Kick-ass. Usually the bayonet is changed due to broken hooks, but here the ring is broken, the train and the ground wire are torn off. You can't restore without a good soldering iron and straight hands. I would not risk it - after such a blow, it is not known what happened to the lens.
thanks. understood.
Good afternoon!
Thank you for the informative review (one of the best) of the 18-105 lens for Nikon cameras
Question!
Will this lens work correctly with the Nikon D3100? (autofocus on all movements of the trunk)
Thank you
Best regards
Andrei
Kind. Of course it will, I had such a set.
Thanks a lot! Good luck
Hello! I decided to remember my childhood, return to the photo, already the figure. Recently purchased Nikon D5200, almost never used. Now in search of a lens. Is it worth buying for 100 euros or is it possible to buy something better in the amount of up to 200… 300 euros. Thanks in advance to everyone for the answers.
Sigma 17-50mm 2.8
Happy New Year, dear colleagues !!! I ask you for advice! As a beginner (or rather, remembering his youthful experience of photography) amateur photographer, I had the question of choosing lenses, namely: they gave me a set of Soviet lenses for testing - Jupiter 21m and Jupiter 37a in almost perfect condition. As far as possible within the apartment I tried 37, I liked the color, beautiful blurring of the background, 21, unfortunately, have not yet been able to try (. And today they offered a lens from the review in excellent condition and I wondered what was better to choose from the proposed one. I understand: 55-105 is universal, 37 is a beautiful portrait portrait, 21 is a little specialized, and a bit heavy. Sorry for many letters). PS camera nikon 5100, I photograph everything except commerce.
18-105 + Yu-37. From Yu-21m on Nikon will focus only a few meters.
Wow "everything"!
Oh, you didn't mean MDF? Then I'm sorry. This is the problem for Nikonov - too large a focal distance for Soviet lenses.
Thanks! I did not write that I have a standard 18-55 lens on my camera and that the choice is between a set of Jupiters and 18-105. The seller of Jupiters gives in a set at a good price, 18-105 at a price equivalent. I understand that for a good, the best option would be to replace the standard one with 18-105 and buy this set of Jupiters to implement artistic ideas), but at the moment the budget is only for buying one thing. By the way, I tried 21m - sooo interesting shots are obtained, with an open aperture, the background is very blurred, perfectly highlighting the subject, I think that for portraits it will be a very useful lens. I'm starting to lean towards buying Jupiters.
If it’s not a secret, how much good are they asking for?
So, 18-105 costs 5500-7000r, 37a - 1500-3000, 21m, it seems, I saw recently for 2500.
Ideally, change 18-55 to 18-105 (it is optically better, and there is no blurring) and 37a for portraits. Jupiter-21m for an amateur - a focal large on a crop comes out, a decent mass. If your palm is medium or large, it will be awkward to hold the camera with such a lens.
And for 18-105 and for a set of Jupiters they ask for 4500 rubles each, for jupiters there is an opportunity to bargain.
For 18-105 this is a good price, only it must be checked sure that the sharpness throughout the field is. Jupiters can be taken cheaper and, moreover, at 21m on Nikon there is not much sense.
Jupiter 37a definitely needs to be left.
Times 21m have passed. Heavy and with a lens adapter to infinity loses resolution.
The 18-105 is a good whale lens for beginners. In the future, when you probably want to buy more high-aperture glasses, it will be idle.
It is quite normal glass for regular use, if you use additional lighting. In complete darkness, even a fifty-fifty 1,4 will not see anything, but here the cost of glass is already completely different. An ordinary user who takes pictures in the daytime is enough for his eyes.