Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical (this is the full name of this lens, written on its body) is ordinary advanced full-time zoom lens... It comes as a base for some cameras and is often referred to as'whale'(from the English' kit '- kit). Now Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G can be found with almost all Nikon DX cameras elementary and intermediate. It originally came as one of three options for the camera. Nikon D90, own, it was announced along with this camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens suitable exclusively for APS-C DSLR cameras Nikon DX, which means that it is not designed for full frame cameras, but for so-called 'cropped' cameras. The full list of Nikon DX cropped cameras can be viewed here... Install Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on full-frame cameras Nikon fx Not recommended.
Main technical specifications of Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical ∞-0.45m / 1.48ft Ø67 Made in Thailand US36549947 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-105 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-157.5 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 5.83 X (usually rounded to 6) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 105 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 3.5 stops by CIPA standards, 3 stops by Nikon standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 420 g |
| Optical design | 15 elements in 11 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China. |
| Period | From August 27, 2008 to the present day (at least until the summer of 2017) |
| 3D view | View -> |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, view from the bayonet side
Assembly
A copy of this review was made in Thailand. Important: Since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is pleasant and weighty to the touch, weighing just over 400 grams. The lens uses common 67mm color filters.
Please note that the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on the mount side does not have a special rubber gasket, which is an indication that the lens has dust and moisture protection. It is better not to expose the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G to severe moisture and dust tests.
The focus ring is plastic, and the zoom lens is rubberized. Unfortunately, the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has plastic bayonet, for which many photographers dislike it. The plastic mount is the first sign that the user is facing a lens from the simplest Nikon Nikkor line of lenses. For example, among the universal Nikon DX lenses, only the simplest kit lenses of the class have a plastic mount. 18-55/3.5-5.6 and another not very successful Nikon 18-135 / 3.5-5.6G.
The retractable lens barrel consists of two sections, to the touch they are quite durable, without any backlash.
With frequent use, the lens may begin to suffer from spontaneous lengthening of the frame (trunk of the lens) under its own weight.
There is a bayonet mount mark and a mark on the case for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses an HB-32 plastic lens hood, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The lens hood comes with the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the zoom ring is partially lost. Exactly the same lens hood Nikon 18-70, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-140.
When changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens body like a pump - it draws in and pushes out air. This behavior of the rear lens is called 'vacuum cleaner effect', which can increase the amount of dust that accumulates in the camera. You can clearly see the effect of a vacuum cleaner with a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens here.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G comes with a CL-1018 soft case, and the lens itself comes in a small cardboard box with a characteristic Nikon coloring.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, rear information part
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 105 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.3
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, maximum length
Stabilizer
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has a second generation 'Nikon VR' image stabilizer that can compensate for 3.5 stops by shutter speed. In values excerpts this means that you can shoot at shutter speeds 10-12 times longer than what the lens without a stabilizer requires.
The manual for the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens says 3 stops (measured by Nikon), and the official website 3.5 feet (measured by CIPA). In any case, the stabilizer works well.
To enable / disable the stabilizer on the lens there 'VR ON / OFF' button. The stabilizer itself works well. I was able to take pictures without grease and hard work at 105 mm focal length and 1/30 second. Unlike more advanced lenses, such as Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical, this lens does not have the ability to switch stabilizer modes.
While the image stabilizer is turned on and off, the viewfinder may twitch slightly, this is the norm and should not be afraid. The stabilizer is turned on by pressing the focus activation button.
The lens can track the movement of the camera during panorama shooting. In this case, the stabilizer will suppress vibration only in the direction perpendicular to the movement of the camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with the most extended frame of the case and the established hood
Focusing
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D90, D200 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 5 magnification... Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with hood in transport mode
Image quality
The lens is sharp enough in the center of the frame, even on open apertures. Sharpness sags a little at 105 mm. Unfortunately, the corners and edges of the image on open apertures remain very weak. The lens also suffers from chromatic aberration and vignetting. Modern cameras can automatically correct vignetting and chromatic aberration.
Of course, at 18 mm you can see barrel-shaped distortion, which becomes pads like with an increase in focal length. The level of dystoria is at an adequate level for comfortable perception of the image.
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G well tolerates side and back light and shows good contrast, which is typical of modern universal lenses. In general, I did not find anything particularly bad or good in the quality of the image obtained with the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical
Examples of photos on Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
UPDATED
More examples on Nikon D5600:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Examples on Nikon D7200:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical prices
Actual lens prices can see here, or in the price block below:
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My experience
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical was my first universal lens for my first two cameras Nikon D40 и Nikon D90. I used it a little over a year, after which I changed it to Tamron 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF). Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is nothing more than an ordinary whale lens with a slightly expanded focal length, which allows you to use part of the tele-range.
For a month, I was simultaneously holding Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical, which allowed me to compare their capabilities. As a result, it turned out that using a range of focal lengths of 18-105 is several times more convenient than using 18-55. The ability to use 105 mm of focal length on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is one of the lens's greatest strengths. Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G also has a more pleasant / solid appearance and it is much more convenient to handle it than with 18-55.
This lens is not a bit suitable as a regular lens for some more or less serious shootings (wedding, responsible reporting, etc.). I took off 4 wedding on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and now I regret it. In the same time Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G fits very well for simple tasks. He repeatedly helped me out on hikes, on vacation, for homely leisurely filming. Like it or not, but finding a more balanced lens than the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is very difficult.
From cheap universal lenses for Nikon DX cameras, I advise you to look at the options Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. True, these lenses can only be found in use on the secondary market. A good replacement for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G are Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
The most similar lens from a third-party manufacturer is Sigma Zoom 18-125mm 1: 3.8-5.6 DC OS HSM (Optical Stabilizer).
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Thank you the store www.fotika.com.ua behind provided by Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens, which I took for a while to create photos with its appearance.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm on camera Nikon D40x
Results
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens performed quite well as universal lens for amateur photographers. On vacation, he is simply indispensable. Unfortunately, one should not expect high optical performance from such a lens. In general, the lens is good for its price class.
I recommend it as the very first lens for Nikon DX cameras. It is best to buy a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G kit (together with the camera), in which case the cost of the camera and lens will be lower than their total cost separately. Using Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is much more convenient than class lenses. 18-55/3.5-5.6 due to the wider range of focal lengths.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good afternoon, Arkady. I need your advice. We have Nikon D7100, before that Nikon D7000, in both cases I used Nikkor 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G, the lens is good, but you have to part with it (father-in-law takes it) and the question arises of purchasing your own lens. I wanted to ask: which lens to take, the fact is that I want something new, I want to go further, try to develop an artistic component. Basically I photograph landscapes and a son with his wife.
Thank you in advance for your attention and hope for your advice.
And how much money do you have (on the lens)? And then the range of tips is from 18-140 to 17-55 / 2,8.
here's the problem: within $ 300
Then Sigma / Tamron 17-50 / 2.8
Perhaps, perhaps. Or tamron 28-75 / 2,8 - depending on which focal points you use. And if N.28-105 is good, you can use it, and fix 35 or 50 for the remainder.
I have been using it for two years. As a start, he's super. 105 so generally fly away! But don't take it on multi-pixel cameras. 3200 is no longer for him. The D300 opened it. And the sharpness appeared ... Therefore, at 3200 it costs 35 / 1.8G and 18-105 at 300s! Hence the question to Arkady (if he reads it) how to resolve amateur and semi-professional. a camera with 24?!
Igor, from which camera is the picture better for the same 35 / 1,8? Does 3200 win in some way? Otherwise, what's the point? And they talked a lot about “multipixel” lenses here, in questions, in other branches.
Yes, it normally pulls 24MP.
I bought with the D5100, a year ago I bought 7100, everything is ok, if you do not need super sharpness.
I was a little surprised, expecting to get soap, but it turned out to be quite suitable.
I decided to check the distribution of the diaphragms of this lens over the entire range of its focal lengths.
Here is what I got in the end (see table).
Photos taken with or without a tripod?
I am interested in the following question, so what lens would you recommend for something more serious (reporting, corporate video, etc.)?
I am quoting you: "This lens is not at all suitable as a standard lens for some more or less serious shooting (wedding, responsible reporting, etc.)"
Native 17-55, 16-80, 24-70
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 - stub, sharpness, aperture
+ Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 - stub, sharpness, aperture and focusing sound, like the Terminator :)
Very suitable. The only drawback is the flimsyly assembled and self-bleeding trunk.
"Self-climbing" - these five!
Good day! Please help me make a choice! I read a bunch of articles, even more confused. Choices: Canon EOS 100D Kit 18-55mm, Nikon D5200 Kit 18-105mm (a little expensive for me, but if you can tense up, you can take it), Canon EOS 1200D Kit 18-135mm, Nikon D3200 Kit 18-105mm VR and Nikon 5100, with lens 18-105 (for some reason, a lot is written about him here, for me it’s even better for the price, but is he really good in 2016? For the first time I’ll shoot my family, fidget for children, portraits, often in dark rooms outdoors. Thanks
1200d + 18-135 is a good option
Canon EOS 100D Kit 18-55mm (but only with STM version of the lens)
And let's offer all the options from the list?))) I join Arkady: 1200D and 18-135 (STM is better) is a good universal option for you. 18-55 as the only lens in my experience will be missed. The Nikon 5100 and 18-105 VR kit is similar. Other options are definitely worse.
But is 1200D better than 100D? but the latter shoots video better and works better with STM lenses
In the Canon 100 D, the 55mm lens is confusing, I’ll have to buy it, but so far I’m not counting on investments
Thanks for the tips! I want to consider the second-hand option 5100/105 and buy a fix 35 / 1.8. Prompted. Since 5100 in stores, as I understand it, no longer find
i have 5100 and 18-55 VR lens. For example, I don't need more than 55mm, but I would not refuse sharpness at a focal point greater than 35. Canon's STM kit 18-55 is all right with sharpness
I also have a 50mm fix, as well as a 55-300 telephoto (I would have done without the latter :))
those. for me, the advantage of Nikon 18-105 over 18-55 is that resolution and sharpness are better
Hello tell me, I noticed an unpleasant feature and it began to strain me. If you shoot an object perpendicularly, the lens itself can be extended up to 105mm. The manual is generally unrealistic, just let go of the ring to twist the sharpness as he leaned out by himself. in the horizontal plane everything is ok. but it’s worth hanging over the subject and it protrudes. Is it possible to fix it yourself or carry it in for repair? There is no guarantee anymore.
There is only one way out - to accept!
Arkady, good health! In this article, you indicated that you shot 4 weddings with a reference supposedly to these same weddings. I would like to clarify these 4 weddings by reference (http://www.wedding-photographer.tv/price.html) specified by you - really shot with a 18-105 mm lens ???
If so, these are awesome shots. In this case, I didn’t understand what you regretted having shot with this lens. Of course, one cannot but acknowledge the merit of your talent and knowledge of shooting in them, but I would never have thought that from 18-105 mm you can shoot so artistically.
there in the gallery now only 1 photo from him
Tell me please? I am an amateur pensioner taking pictures with friends at home and outdoors, friends, nature and everything around me, I have a Nikon D-90 with a whale of 18-105mm. and N-55-200mm. whose focal distances overlap, so to speak. it’s not wiser to replace them with one 18-200mm. or any other inexpensive but not bad for my needs? Cool do not scold, I only master the technique, I bought used.
It rather depends on your “quality standards”. It would be easier to say if we saw your photos. If this is more of a photo "for memory", then feel free to change. The quality of the optics is lower, but it is there.
18-105 and 18-200 (from the network)
Artem, thanks. I would have posted pictures, but I am not able to reduce them to 1MB, but in such a state, how are mine not loaded?, Tell me how ...
Well, for example: right-click on the photo -> select “change” -> select “resize” -> change 100% to 50, close, save, if the size of the photo has become less than 1MB - ok, if more - you need was 30% change (or 20). Why change these 2 objects to 18-200? You will lose money, a little in photo quality, the only bonus is that one lens does not need to be changed. Shoot the 18-105, a good lens, until you run into the need for something fast, “voluminous”, super-wide, etc. (when you see such photos and want to also).
Valery A. Thank you, I understood with the glasses, I'll try the foci tomorrow, on a 55-200mm lens. not so good so far. you need to work out, otherwise I, from time to time, raid in a hurry, therefore, the seams ...
The 55-200 lens, in spite of its "plasticity", can also shoot normally. At the long end, it is advisable to cover the aperture, fighting soapiness, up to f7-10, of course, the shutter speed grows, here the stab helps out, it helps up to 1/50 or more (without a stub, it is desirable to have 1/300). I hope you have a 55-200 with a stub, otherwise it's a hassle with a tripod.
Valery A - Thank you so much, flattered ...
I will try to add some photos for the analysis of experts, what, where and how should be “improved”? ...
Did not work out…
not taking photos?
Why did you wind up the saturation?
the bee turned out well, naturally
This is how I knock around on my own, my friends and I like it, but how is it right, I know that the shooting process itself needs to be improved, but God willing, with time and I will learn, if of course there is enough time ... Denis Thank you for your answer, but how to regulate and recognize this saturation boost ?
Are you shooting in JPEG or RAW?
If JPEG, look at the settings for the selected profile. If it is * to the right of it, then the profile has been edited. Select any profile without *
Yes, the picture control seems to be standart, can I put neitral? I used to rule jeepgs in lightroom, now faster - shooting in RAV and in my native ViewNX I adjust the exposure (light-shadow), BB, sometimes contrast. Where to edit - to your taste, or you need to learn, on the same Internet.
Valery A. Thank you! For me, all this is difficult, I wanted to be like a Master Class, but alas, we do not have those, I went to photojournalists, there are two of them in our district, but they mostly work for AUTO, no knowledge, in a photo studio, the girl Tonya is portraits, vignettes, and so on and all on Kenen ... I will learn to bother ...
no, the standard will not spoil anything, so we went into the standard settings and twisted the saturation there
Yes, Denis is in JPEG, thanks, I'll see, but what does it affect?
if the bee is the last photo, then everything has returned to normal
why did he ask about RAW - to find out if it happened in the camera or in the computer (when RAW was processed to get JPEG)
read this article https://radojuva.com/2016/05/ultra-combo-sharp-nikon/
No Denis, a bee in June 2016. I photographed JPEG, but then switched to RAW, tried it but didn’t understand anything without consulting, JPEG again. Thank you, tell me, VR, when do I need to disconnect and connect the lens in the bag when installing it on the Carcass, or what?
Denis, thank you, I read the article respectfully!
VR should always be turned off, it makes sense to turn on when shooting handheld at shutter speeds exceeding 1 / 1,5 * FR in order to avoid hand movement, i.e. at 200mm FR, the shutter speed without VR can be 1/300 and shorter, if it is longer, enable VR. The recommendations, of course, are average, the sniper is one thing, and the parkinson's is another.
In the instructions to the FA, by the way, they write that before turning off the FA, be sure to turn off the VR.
Valery A., most likely, before disconnecting the lens from the camera, you must turn off the VR
Do you prefer to guess or read from the manufacturer?
google it. indeed, the manufacturer writes it. it means that the manufacturer wants users to break the switch
M. b. the manufacturer hopes that the user will turn on VR as needed, at long (for handheld) exposures. On TV sets, such a need is often in demand, on 18-55 / 105 it is quite rare.
Yet:
and further:
Bumblebee, 18-105
Nature 55-200
Bee
Bee:
Normal pictures, except the first, especially the bee. It is even better to shoot with the lens 55-200, it has an MDF of 1,1m with a coefficient of magnitude of 1: 4,3, and for the 18-105th - 0,45m and 1: 5. Do you have VR enabled at short shutter speeds for safety reasons? Here 200mm, 1/100, f7,1 VR on:
You see, I didn’t watch it, but VR was ON, and I removed it after the purchase, I probably set it for insurance when sending it, I felt something was wrong on the long one, but I didn’t check it, THANKS Big Valery A.
You should read something for self-education: instructions for your FA (before understanding), articles by Arkady (or where else) such as what is endurance, etc.
YES, I read this, and as a child I was engaged, my father had a photo correspondent, then Smenoy, FED, Zorkiy-5 in 1958 bought it, with an industrial-60 lens, however, somewhere with children, still alive, then everything was abandoned and now retired in 69 I decided to remember, for a year now and amuse myself ...
Looked at the photo. Purely for convenience, you can safely change to 18-200. The main thing is to not lose money. Be careful with color saturation!
Artum! A brief analysis of the photo, I understood by saturation, thanks.
Thanks to all!
I have a camera 7000 lenses: 18-105, 55-300, 85 / 1,8g. I am an amateur, I love technology, a Photoshop program. Please tell me if I need to buy 24 / 1,8g, all the same it’s like 35, I stood constantly and did not vacuum. Focal more than 35 are not interesting to me, except for portraits.
Look at another lens: Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM A. There will be 18 and 24 and 35mm in one form.
But they write about this lens that it focuses very poorly.
The front / back focus is decided by the purchase or lease of the YUSBdok station, with the help of which amendments are introduced.
But they write about this lens that it focuses very poorly.
Hello, Arkady, please advise which budget lens is better to choose as a replacement for the 18-55 kit for portrait and simple reportage shooting? Nikon d3200 camera
Hello Arkady, I have such a problem, on d90 my nikkor af-s 18-105 vr lens stopped working autofocus, the stabilizer is audible and there is no lens autofocus motor, I’ve already tried everything, I understand that if the stub works, it’s not about the contacts on the mount , but in the ultrasonic motor on the lens itself? or maybe another reason? Maybe this is some reason in the camera itself? Thanks in advance for your reply!